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Old 09-28-2016, 06:57 AM   #21
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"The one I have is 35 amp which doesn't sound like much against some of the one's mentioned but would be quite sufficient if I could get it to pump out 15-20 amps continuously. Is there some way to get it to do this? Do I have to by pass the interior regulator and feed it directly to an ACR or the Adverc?"

The Voltage regulator is the key.

An auto style unit only charges at a low rate to assist battery and alt life.

For the most rapid charge an external is required, 35A or 300A .

How you then feed the batt set has little to do with the rate of batt charging.
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Old 09-28-2016, 07:13 AM   #22
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A 90 amp alternator is less than $200. Sounds like your needs are very simple. Why not just buy and install? On eBay the prices are less than $100 if you chose that route.
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Old 09-28-2016, 08:13 AM   #23
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A 35A alternator is pretty small. As a standard "regulator inside the alternator" the most you can expect out of it continuously is half that. If you drop in a simple internal regulator 90A you would more than double the output with minimal expense and little if any rewiring.

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Old 09-28-2016, 10:00 AM   #24
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Thanks everyone for lively discussion and lots of ideas. The isolator is obviously gone to be replaced most likely by an ACR although the Adverc controller is also very interesting. The question I now have is whether I need a completely new alternator as well. The one I have is 35 amp which doesn't sound like much against some of the one's mentioned but would be quite sufficient if I could get it to pump out 15-20 amps continuously. Is there some way to get it to do this? Do I have to by pass the interior regulator and feed it directly to an ACR or the Adverc?
Seems we have gotten quite far afield from diagnosing your charging problem nor have you really given enough information to really do it.
I stand by my original comment that it is worth trying a cruise w/o the diode splitter involved. I single it out it, not because it is obsolete (I have many obsolete things on my boats) but because it's inherent voltage drop precludes ever fully charging your batteries, no matter how long your run time. Start by just bypassing it, charge directly into one bank, bring the other bank into charge by putting your battery switch on both (which is what the ACR will do for you automatically)
OR check it out for yourself: While running, put your voltmeter on the alternator output, then put it on the battery. You have lost a volt... That one volt is what allows the alternator to force current into the battery at a fair rate. Without it, you will never finish a charging cycle.

I have kept my boats on moorings for 30+ years, never charging at dockside. Do you need a larger alternator? Likely. A marine regulator? Maybe. But neither will work correctly as long as your diode splitter remains (unless special sensing wiring is used which I'm quite sure it is not in your case)
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Old 09-28-2016, 12:38 PM   #25
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I just had a 90 amp Prestolite put on my FL as well, same thing with low charging especially if the fridge was running.
And did that solve the problem and does it use an external regulator and does it fit straight onto the FL without loading down the water pump bearing too much?
Thanks
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Old 09-28-2016, 12:39 PM   #26
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I have sent of a query to Adverc to see what they suggest. Thanks for the tip
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Old 09-28-2016, 01:52 PM   #27
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I have sent of a query to Adverc to see what they suggest. Thanks for the tip
They will suggest you buy an Adverc.....
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Old 09-28-2016, 02:00 PM   #28
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Golderskookum.
The size of your alternator should be capable of 25% of your battery storage capacity, i.e. 100 amp alternator for 400 amps of storage.


Contact Brian or Mark Godwin, at techsales@ Adverc.co.uk and ask for a brochure which gives a full technical description of how, why, what, when and then you can make up your own mind.
Adverc have an agent in America, ask for his contact details if you feel happier.
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Old 09-28-2016, 10:05 PM   #29
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Ted, it is the 90 amp model that came with the Bomac reman, same one was on the original takeout, so just makes it easy to have to identical on motor with one spare. Nothing high dollar I'm sure. BTW sensor is mounted on the top at the hottest part of the alt I could find. Sterling cuts it out at 90degree C I believe. I'm also restricted to a single belt on each without major changes
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Originally Posted by Golderskookum View Post
Thanks everyone for lively discussion and lots of ideas. The isolator is obviously gone to be replaced most likely by an ACR although the Adverc controller is also very interesting. The question I now have is whether I need a completely new alternator as well. The one I have is 35 amp which doesn't sound like much against some of the one's mentioned but would be quite sufficient if I could get it to pump out 15-20 amps continuously. Is there some way to get it to do this? Do I have to by pass the interior regulator and feed it directly to an ACR or the Adverc?
Alternator body size and fan size have a lot to do with dissipating heat. Until you get into the heavy truck frame alternators, you are dealing with most units that weren't design to output 60% of their capacity continuously. Took a fair amount of effort and money to set mine up. But now it's like I have a 3 KW generator running off my engine.

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Old 09-28-2016, 10:55 PM   #30
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And did that solve the problem and does it use an external regulator and does it fit straight onto the FL without loading down the water pump bearing too much?
Thanks
Don't know about the regulator and haven't used it yet. Not much help I know.
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Old 09-29-2016, 01:27 AM   #31
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Cool. While I don't need that much that's the way to go I'd say. So you have 250amp alternator and a control system. Interested in a few more details just for my continuing education.
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Old 09-30-2016, 06:57 AM   #32
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So you have 250amp alternator and a control system

A common method of getting up to 300A o 12 or 24V is a bus alternator.
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Old 09-30-2016, 07:49 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by Golderskookum View Post
Thanks everyone for lively discussion and lots of ideas. The isolator is obviously gone to be replaced most likely by an ACR although the Adverc controller is also very interesting. The question I now have is whether I need a completely new alternator as well. The one I have is 35 amp which doesn't sound like much against some of the one's mentioned but would be quite sufficient if I could get it to pump out 15-20 amps continuously. Is there some way to get it to do this? Do I have to by pass the interior regulator and feed it directly to an ACR or the Adverc?
First off, I would simply bypass that diode battery isolator, and see if it improves the charging, you do not need it nothing will be damaged. All it does is prevent backfeeding between batteries if one is bad it won't drain the other. You can use a 12vdc continuous duty high amp relay connected so oil or fuel pump pressure turns it on or ACR which monitors charge voltage to turn on and off, much better than battery isolator as everyone has said.

And verify the grounding of the alternator case back to the negative post on the battery.
Was helping a slipmate with alternator that did not put out much power, volts were low.
Ran a big wire direct from alternator to battery and it worked again. He was on his 3rd alternator. Surprised me, you would think direct metal to metal by way of bolts would pass current, his did not, he had high resistance in the negative ground circuit.
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Old 09-30-2016, 08:01 AM   #34
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First off, I would simply bypass that diode battery isolator, and see if it improves the charging, you do not need it nothing will be damaged. All it does is prevent backfeeding between batteries if one is bad it won't drain the other. You can use a 12vdc continuous charge relay or ACR, much better than battery isolator as everyone has said.
And verify the grounding of the alternator case back to the negative post on the battery.
.
Good idea to check proper grounding of alt to battery.
I have suggested bypassing splitter 3 times above, others have as well, I think OP has stock in the diode splitter company LOL. I still don't think he has mentioned the size of his battery bank/s. Good thing we have time to waste,,,
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Old 09-30-2016, 08:06 AM   #35
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Good idea to check proper grounding of alt to battery.
I have suggested bypassing splitter 3 times above, others have as well, I think OP has stock in the diode splitter company LOL. I still don't think he has mentioned the size of his battery bank/s. Good thing we have time to waste,,,
Yes, time to waste was true.
He went about a week trying to figure it out. He was having so much trouble and we did not know if any of his alternators were good. I unbolted mine and connected it to his system, and it did not work. So I know it was something in the boat wiring. After that it took me about an hour to figure out the ground was the problem. He had bought 2 new alternators and none of the 3 he had were bad..

After we fixed his system, I told him he should get rid of his battery isolator, but he did not want to either.
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Old 09-30-2016, 08:06 AM   #36
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Thanks everyone for all the ideas. We are packing up the boat now for the winter. We will leave it on the Rhone at L'Ardoise. More research over the winter and a Spring fix. sdowney717 suggestion is interesting but I have used jumpers to bypass all the wiring and connect the alternator directly to all the batteries and an ammeter. It only puts out a few amps even then even when the house batteries are down. I received a reply from Adverc. They say that with their management system it compensates for the diode isolator drop if that is the split method in use. I have run the system without it and connected all the batteries together but just the same trickle charge. I have had the alternator tested. all ok. I have used a new alternator of the same capacity. still just a trickle.
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Old 09-30-2016, 08:11 AM   #37
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Thanks everyone for all the ideas. We are packing up the boat now for the winter. We will leave it on the Rhone at L'Ardoise. More research over the winter and a Spring fix. sdowney717 suggestion is interesting but I have used jumpers to bypass all the wiring and connect the alternator directly to all the batteries and an ammeter. It only puts out a few amps even then even when the house batteries are down. I received a reply from Adverc. They say that with their management system it compensates for the diode isolator drop if that is the split method in use. I have run the system without it and connected all the batteries together but just the same trickle charge. I have had the alternator tested. all ok. I have used a new alternator of the same capacity. still just a trickle.
Sine the alternator tests ok, your problem must be the wiring. Perhaps even an internally corroded wire, connection, miswired. Just simplify to the absolute basics and try different wires even.
High resistance in the charging circuits will kill any charging ability. Is the alternator regulator wire getting good power, check everything.
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Old 09-30-2016, 08:34 AM   #38
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I have twin 108amp Delcos on one of my 120s and a single Delco 80amp on my other 120. I bought the bracket from AD for the twin Delco setup. The system has run perfectly for four years.
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Old 09-30-2016, 08:54 AM   #39
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Sdowney

Your excellent points are why I (clueless) invested in BMKs for both house and engine starts. They (hopefully) tell me what the batteries are seeing. I have found this especially helpful when anchored, any amp draw out of the ordinary can be chased down.

Last week some strong backs dropped in two new engine start 8Ds. The BMK said "Thinkun" and showed no amps, volts or other data. I was afraid I was going to have to get the Magnum book out. Alas, after an hour or two it jumped to life showing data as it should. Recalibration mode I guess.

This post along with the thread on combining alternators shows we have some smart people on TF. Thanks CMS, Ted, Al, Sd etc for keeping us "Thinkun" and charged up.
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Old 09-30-2016, 08:59 AM   #40
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I have twin 108amp Delcos on one of my 120s and a single Delco 80amp on my other 120. I bought the bracket from AD for the twin Delco setup. The system has run perfectly for four years.
There you go Golderskookum, by installing a larger alternator or two your Lehman will be happy.
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