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Old 06-04-2014, 09:19 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by rochepoint View Post
Maybe I am way off base here....it has happened before....
but could you not just get a bigger belt and route it like the photo I modified in red?
That's exactly what I meant above (but not so clever with the photo)
Check if the spring in the tensioner can be reversed of if the mfg haas a reverse tensioner available.
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Old 06-04-2014, 10:01 AM   #22
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The manual indicates that the belt should be installed as they have been for the five years I have had the boat.
I think the later model has the wrap that contacts the pulley more. I need to replace the tensioner and add an idler pulley to take adventage of that set up.
The 'B' wrap looks like the solution to me...
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Old 06-04-2014, 01:07 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by rochepoint View Post
Maybe I am way off base here....it has happened before....
but could you not just get a bigger belt and route it like the photo I modified in red?
Have you tried just rerouting the belt you have to see if it will go the red route way?
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Old 06-04-2014, 04:08 PM   #24
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Have you tried just rerouting the belt you have to see if it will go the red route way?
Yes I have. The belt is way to long and I dont think it would work even if it were shorter due to the tensioner setup.
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Old 06-07-2014, 09:53 AM   #25
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Tensioner upgrade

After some discussion with SBMAR I have decided to upgrade the tensioner and add an idler pulley. They sell an upgrade kit that includes the bracket needed to mount them to existing holes in the block. Thanks for all the suggestions. I will post the end game when I receive the parts and get them installed.
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Old 06-18-2014, 06:40 PM   #26
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Problem solved!

Bolt on mod from Cummins to improve performance and eliminate the slip from the old style belt wrap. It was a piece of cake to install.
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Old 06-18-2014, 06:44 PM   #27
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looks great. let us know how it performs when you crank it up.

Also, IR the alternator when it is under bulk load, I would be curious to know the temps.
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Old 06-18-2014, 07:03 PM   #28
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looks great. let us know how it performs when you crank it up.

Also, IR the alternator when it is under bulk load, I would be curious to know the temps.
My regulators turn off the alternator at 90C (194F). I am going to remove that feature. I bet they get to 250F.
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Old 06-19-2014, 02:55 PM   #29
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It aint over til its over

I thought I was done. The belt guard didn't fit with the new tensioner location. So it was back to the house for cutting bending and paint. I suspected this would happen. Shes done done now.
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Old 06-22-2014, 10:59 AM   #30
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please post details of the new generator and the regulator, make model supplier etc

thanks
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Old 06-22-2014, 12:33 PM   #31
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Dave: why would you remove the regulator's ability to de-rate your alts when they go over 90C? High temps are alt killers and most are not rated to operate continuously at much over 105C as I understand it. I've got a 6BTA5.9 370 (M3) with same belt wrap you now have. Port side I have a Bosch 120A: notorious for being heat-sensitive, my reg begins de-rating when it approaches 70C. Stbd I've got a Leece Neville 160A large-frame. I've got that programmed to de-rate over 90C, though in practice I've not seen it go past 68C. Both governed by Balmar MC-614 regs + Centerfielder II
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Old 06-22-2014, 10:13 PM   #32
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Dave: why would you remove the regulator's ability to de-rate your alts when they go over 90C? High temps are alt killers and most are not rated to operate continuously at much over 105C as I understand it. I've got a 6BTA5.9 370 (M3) with same belt wrap you now have. Port side I have a Bosch 120A: notorious for being heat-sensitive, my reg begins de-rating when it approaches 70C. Stbd I've got a Leece Neville 160A large-frame. I've got that programmed to de-rate over 90C, though in practice I've not seen it go past 68C. Both governed by Balmar MC-614 regs + Centerfielder II
Good question, I have exchanged emails with the alternator maker and the Sterling regulator folks. The alternator manufacture said that the alts could run at 250+ F. The Sterling guys said just remove it. So I did a test. At about 95 amps without the temp sensor connected the alternator reached 340F on the hottest spot. Needless to say I shut the engine down and restored the sensor. One issue is the mounts for the alternator are 175F with the engine at temperature. The aluminum billet alternators quickly pick up that heat. With a 194F limit there is no margin. I am still trying to resolve this issue. I have got to find a solution that lets me use the capability of these larger alternators.
With the temp protection installed and running at high load (80-95amps)the alternator only run 3-6 minutes and then they shut down and cool off for 10 minutes before they restart. One more suck ass part of this is that my tachs also turn off when the high temp is reached.
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Old 06-22-2014, 10:21 PM   #33
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please post details of the new generator and the regulator, make model supplier etc

thanks
Quality Power Mega amp alternator. Mega Amp GM High Output Alternator

Sterling ProReg D advanced regulator

Advanced Alternator Regulator
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Old 06-23-2014, 12:22 AM   #34
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Good question, I have exchanged emails with the alternator maker and the Sterling regulator folks. The alternator manufacture said that the alts could run at 250+ F. The Sterling guys said just remove it. So I did a test. At about 95 amps without the temp sensor connected the alternator reached 340F on the hottest spot. Needless to say I shut the engine down and restored the sensor. One issue is the mounts for the alternator are 175F with the engine at temperature. The aluminum billet alternators quickly pick up that heat. With a 194F limit there is no margin. I am still trying to resolve this issue. I have got to find a solution that lets me use the capability of these larger alternators.
With the temp protection installed and running at high load (80-95amps)the alternator only run 3-6 minutes and then they shut down and cool off for 10 minutes before they restart. One more suck ass part of this is that my tachs also turn off when the high temp is reached.
Hi
An idea to lower the heat transfer from the mounting point. Use Delrin or Teflon washers on both ends of alt mounting Thru bolt, plus a Delrin sleeve around a slightly undersized stainless bolt. That should cut the heat flow from the engine. I am thinking Delrin or Teflon is a plastic with crappy heat transfer that can tolerate 250. What say the experts?
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Old 06-23-2014, 11:12 AM   #35
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Is a larger pulley fan available
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Old 06-23-2014, 11:41 AM   #36
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Is a larger pulley fan available
The alternators have internal fans. One in front and one in the back.
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Old 06-23-2014, 11:43 AM   #37
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Is a larger pulley fan available
That's an interesting idea. I had to shim the pulley 1/8" so the belt alignment was good. I wonder if I could find a fan that has an 1/8" high hub and remove the shim.
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Old 06-23-2014, 12:28 PM   #38
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Wow!

This is what the alternator maker sent me today.

"We normally see between 270 and 330* at the stator core when charging at 90-300A.
About 250* is normal if the engine is a about 180* (+) and that is on a 200A alt. the higher amp the high heat. If heat is an issue then you can run a cooling hose to the alt almost like a engine bay blower. Outside air would be the best as it is alot cooler on the water. Cooler the better."
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Old 06-23-2014, 12:35 PM   #39
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That's an interesting idea. I had to shim the pulley 1/8" so the belt alignment was good. I wonder if I could find a fan that has an 1/8" high hub and remove the shim.
The alternator guys said this.
"Actually the best place is at the rear where the rectifier is. Keeping the diodes and stator cool is the key. Do not put an external fan on the front. a cooling duct would be ok."
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Old 06-23-2014, 12:40 PM   #40
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Dave: what about changing the alternator fan? First, is it actually set up to blow the right way, which is air moving from back to front? Second, some alts can take different fan types: an alternator rebuild shop can tell you if a higher airflow fan is available that can be fitted to your alt. The following is an extract from Steve d' Antonio's blog earlier this month: "....check the installation to make sure they are equipped with the correct fans (there are bi-directional, straight fin, and mono-directional, slanted fin, fans, if the latter, and the incorrect rotation, they can lead to overheating). Most engines are counterclockwise rotation (when viewed from the flywheel end), which means the pulleys on the front turn clockwise, as do the alternator fans. If the fans are the mono-directional, slanted variety the fans should be turning with the scoop side away from the direction of rotation. Counterclockwise alternator fans are rare, they are designed for clockwise rotation gasoline engines, however, and there are thousands of them out there, so this is a possibility that should be eliminated. Fans should draw air through the back and then center of the alternator and expel it out the front." You just changed the belt arrangement....did the fan direction change too??
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