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Old 11-19-2018, 11:43 PM   #1
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Aligning motor with a flexible Drive coupling

So I replace the motor mounts on my cat 3208 in the course of an oil pan replacement. So this week I am going to align the motor. I have a plastic Drive saver device between my transmission output flange and the prop shaft flange. With this setup what is the proper way to A-line the motor? Should the drive saver be removed?
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Old 11-19-2018, 11:57 PM   #2
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I'm thinking the only way would be to align flange to flange and then re-install the drive saver but I've not seen one up close. I'm looking at changing the mounts when I replace a damper plate this winter. Which mounts did you use?
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Old 11-20-2018, 12:13 AM   #3
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When they aligned our motor they removed the drive saver, aligned flange to flange & then reinstalled the saver.
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Old 11-20-2018, 12:13 AM   #4
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Greetings,
Mr. 30. Mine were done in the fashion described by Mr. ADC. Flange to flange alignment then re-installation of the drive saver.
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Old 11-20-2018, 07:35 AM   #5
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The 3208 is very smooth running motor, I would not spec a drive saver for such. If shaft length is appropriate I would be done with the drive saver and go coupling to coupling.

If you want to retain the drive saver, try to line it up coupling to coupling and then pull shaft back and install the saver. If there is a little misalignment, the saver can adapt to that.

There are also spacer flanges on the market that can go between the flanges for either alignment purposes or for permanent install.
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Old 11-20-2018, 12:17 PM   #6
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I'm thinking the only way would be to align flange to flange and then re-install the drive saver but I've not seen one up close. I'm looking at changing the mounts when I replace a damper plate this winter. Which mounts did you use?
I bought those mounts from go Marine over the Internet. Honestly I don't know what manufacturer they are I just looked at the weight and size. These are heavy engines so you have to make sure the mounts have enough capacity
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Old 11-20-2018, 03:15 PM   #7
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I am looking at a 1984 Nordic Tug for purchase. A recent survey of the boat recommends aligning engine. What is the level of difficulty or cost. Access to the engine mounts seems pretty constrained to me on this little boat.
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Old 11-20-2018, 05:08 PM   #8
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I am looking at a 1984 Nordic Tug for purchase. A recent survey of the boat recommends aligning engine. What is the level of difficulty or cost. Access to the engine mounts seems pretty constrained to me on this little boat.
IMO, get it done in a yard with a good history of replacing engine mounts and alignment
This is not something, IMO, is not something you should undertake.
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Old 11-20-2018, 06:58 PM   #9
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The 3208 is very smooth running motor, I would not spec a drive saver for such. If shaft length is appropriate I would be done with the drive saver and go coupling to coupling.

If you want to retain the drive saver, try to line it up coupling to coupling and then pull shaft back and install the saver. If there is a little misalignment, the saver can adapt to that.

There are also spacer flanges on the market that can go between the flanges for either alignment purposes or for permanent install.
Do you have a source for the spacers? I have drive savers and one of my shafts is too short to pull the couplers together without hitting the rear strut.
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Old 11-20-2018, 10:30 PM   #10
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Quote:
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I am looking at a 1984 Nordic Tug for purchase. A recent survey of the boat recommends aligning engine. What is the level of difficulty or cost. Access to the engine mounts seems pretty constrained to me on this little boat.
My propeller and shaft service shop recommended a local technician, he charged me less than $100 to do the job at his convenience. Smaller engine, good access, but the alignment was way off. It shouldn't be an expensive job... Just my experience :-)
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Old 11-21-2018, 12:35 AM   #11
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I bought those mounts from go Marine over the Internet. Honestly I don't know what manufacturer they are I just looked at the weight and size. These are heavy engines so you have to make sure the mounts have enough capacity
Thanks Motion30. I'm taking a hard look at the Isoflex mounts. I currently have 1978 vintage Dual Flex mounts. The studs are obviously pushed forward in the flange cup. Regardless which mount I choose, it will be a learning experience!
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Old 11-21-2018, 08:09 AM   #12
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Do you have a source for the spacers? I have drive savers and one of my shafts is too short to pull the couplers together without hitting the rear strut.
I had one made for my ex boat. Easy job for any machine shop with a lathe that can handle the diameter and a milling machine.
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Old 11-21-2018, 09:28 AM   #13
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Yea, I just made mine on a lathe and a mill. But have seen commercial ones available, I think some of the drive saver companies stock them, would need to search.

If prop shaft is too short to do a proper alignment, might be worth getting a diver to pop the prop off.
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Old 11-25-2018, 08:23 AM   #14
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Drive savers are built to break before the engine is damaged.

Do you carry the required bolts to assemble the flanges to get home if the unit functions ?

Or a spare drive saver?
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Old 11-25-2018, 08:36 AM   #15
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Drive savers are built to break before the engine is damaged.

Do you carry the required bolts to assemble the flanges to get home if the unit functions ?

Or a spare drive saver?
If you don't, you should. I didn't and when my drive saver fractured in a lock in Ottawa, I was without prpulsion on one side. Had to drive 18 miles down the canal to a marina and wait a week for a replacment. However, without a spacer, bolts would have been useless.
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Old 11-26-2018, 06:24 AM   #16
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"However, without a spacer, bolts would have been useless."

The bolts suggested are to mount the shaft & engine flange to flange , the way the shafts are aligned.

This will work as a get home , the new shaft saver can be installed , eventually.
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Old 11-26-2018, 09:09 AM   #17
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Spurs and other prop shaft line cutters sell spacers as their product often requires moving prop shaft back. Another source.
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Old 11-30-2018, 10:08 PM   #18
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I picked up a long ground line (long line gear for halibut fishing) at low tide in the Prince Rupert harbour. Some long line guy must have thrown a major length of line over the side in the harbour at some point? An absolute no, no. It wrapped my prop and eventually broke the drive saver. The drive saver did save the rear gear (twin disc) and engine (3208 Cat) but ripped out the stuffing box. A $7K repair and lost fishing time. In this situation a line cutter on the shaft may have been a better investment
than the drive saver?
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Old 12-01-2018, 03:19 AM   #19
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I have a flex coupling and have always aligned my engine & shaft with the flex coupling in place.
What is the reasoning for removing it? It is made from a fairly hard polyurethane and the flange gaps can be measured like any steel flange. Am I missing something here?
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Old 12-01-2018, 10:02 AM   #20
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Aligning motor with a flexible Drive coupling

I didn't see any mention of where the alignment should be done.

Some say in the water, and some say on the hard.

I'm inclined to have it done in the water. Which I will do this year after we are splashed.

We had our 2 shafts replaced, after we had new engine mounts installed (2 sets). I had flexible couplers added which entailed making the shafts shorter. No going back as the props would hit the struts. IF I ever wanted to remove the couplers, but why would I, I'd have to get adapters.

Planning on keeping the flexible couplers, just getting another 1 to carry as a spare.

I saw a mention of cutters added to this thread.

I use a cutter-anode type, so it servers 2 purposes. Here is a link to see what they are (http://www.seashieldmarine.com/produ...-pending-zinc/).

These have worked well for me for about 5yrs and are an economical choice.
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