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11-19-2018, 10:43 PM
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#1
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Guru
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,178
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Aligning motor with a flexible Drive coupling
So I replace the motor mounts on my cat 3208 in the course of an oil pan replacement. So this week I am going to align the motor. I have a plastic Drive saver device between my transmission output flange and the prop shaft flange. With this setup what is the proper way to A-line the motor? Should the drive saver be removed?
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11-19-2018, 10:57 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
City: Tri-Cities WA
Vessel Name: Long Shot
Vessel Model: 1978 Californian 42' LRC
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 191
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I'm thinking the only way would be to align flange to flange and then re-install the drive saver but I've not seen one up close. I'm looking at changing the mounts when I replace a damper plate this winter. Which mounts did you use?
__________________
Eric
Please throw me the bowline Fraulein!
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11-19-2018, 11:13 PM
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#3
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Guru
City: Sidney BC Canada
Vessel Name: RochePoint
Vessel Model: 1985 Cheer Men PT38 Sedan
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 1,744
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When they aligned our motor they removed the drive saver, aligned flange to flange & then reinstalled the saver.
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11-19-2018, 11:13 PM
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#4
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Enigma
City: Slicker?
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 16,540
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Greetings,
Mr. 30. Mine were done in the fashion described by Mr. ADC. Flange to flange alignment then re-installation of the drive saver.
__________________
RTF
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11-20-2018, 06:35 AM
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#5
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Technical Guru
City: Wilmington, NC
Vessel Name: Louisa
Vessel Model: Custom Built 38
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 6,194
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The 3208 is very smooth running motor, I would not spec a drive saver for such. If shaft length is appropriate I would be done with the drive saver and go coupling to coupling.
If you want to retain the drive saver, try to line it up coupling to coupling and then pull shaft back and install the saver. If there is a little misalignment, the saver can adapt to that.
There are also spacer flanges on the market that can go between the flanges for either alignment purposes or for permanent install.
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11-20-2018, 11:17 AM
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#6
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Guru
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,178
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aft Deck Capt
I'm thinking the only way would be to align flange to flange and then re-install the drive saver but I've not seen one up close. I'm looking at changing the mounts when I replace a damper plate this winter. Which mounts did you use?
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I bought those mounts from go Marine over the Internet. Honestly I don't know what manufacturer they are I just looked at the weight and size. These are heavy engines so you have to make sure the mounts have enough capacity
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11-20-2018, 02:15 PM
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#7
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Veteran Member
City: Pasadena
Vessel Name: Sea Turtle
Vessel Model: Grand Banks 32
Join Date: Nov 2018
Posts: 58
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I am looking at a 1984 Nordic Tug for purchase. A recent survey of the boat recommends aligning engine. What is the level of difficulty or cost. Access to the engine mounts seems pretty constrained to me on this little boat.
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11-20-2018, 04:08 PM
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#8
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Guru
City: Aventura FL
Vessel Name: Kinja
Vessel Model: American Tug 34 #116 2008
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 10,595
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SailorGoneBad
I am looking at a 1984 Nordic Tug for purchase. A recent survey of the boat recommends aligning engine. What is the level of difficulty or cost. Access to the engine mounts seems pretty constrained to me on this little boat.
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IMO, get it done in a yard with a good history of replacing engine mounts and alignment
This is not something, IMO, is not something you should undertake.
__________________
Two days out the hospital after a week in the hospital because of a significant heart attack.
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11-20-2018, 05:58 PM
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#9
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Moderator Emeritus
City: Au Gres, MI
Vessel Name: Black Dog
Vessel Model: Formula 41PC
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 21,131
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ski in NC
The 3208 is very smooth running motor, I would not spec a drive saver for such. If shaft length is appropriate I would be done with the drive saver and go coupling to coupling.
If you want to retain the drive saver, try to line it up coupling to coupling and then pull shaft back and install the saver. If there is a little misalignment, the saver can adapt to that.
There are also spacer flanges on the market that can go between the flanges for either alignment purposes or for permanent install.
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Do you have a source for the spacers? I have drive savers and one of my shafts is too short to pull the couplers together without hitting the rear strut.
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11-20-2018, 09:30 PM
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#10
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Guru
City: Kenai, Alaska
Vessel Name: Melanie Rose
Vessel Model: 1999 Willard PH
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 1,236
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SailorGoneBad
I am looking at a 1984 Nordic Tug for purchase. A recent survey of the boat recommends aligning engine. What is the level of difficulty or cost. Access to the engine mounts seems pretty constrained to me on this little boat.
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My propeller and shaft service shop recommended a local technician, he charged me less than $100 to do the job at his convenience. Smaller engine, good access, but the alignment was way off. It shouldn't be an expensive job... Just my experience :-)
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11-20-2018, 11:35 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
City: Tri-Cities WA
Vessel Name: Long Shot
Vessel Model: 1978 Californian 42' LRC
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 191
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motion30
I bought those mounts from go Marine over the Internet. Honestly I don't know what manufacturer they are I just looked at the weight and size. These are heavy engines so you have to make sure the mounts have enough capacity
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Thanks Motion30. I'm taking a hard look at the Isoflex mounts. I currently have 1978 vintage Dual Flex mounts. The studs are obviously pushed forward in the flange cup. Regardless which mount I choose, it will be a learning experience!
__________________
Eric
Please throw me the bowline Fraulein!
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11-21-2018, 07:09 AM
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#12
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Guru
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 5,034
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Comodave
Do you have a source for the spacers? I have drive savers and one of my shafts is too short to pull the couplers together without hitting the rear strut.
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I had one made for my ex boat. Easy job for any machine shop with a lathe that can handle the diameter and a milling machine.
__________________
Jay Leonard
Ex boats: 1983 40 Albin trunk cabin, 1978 Mainship 34 Model 1
New Port Richey, Fl
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11-21-2018, 08:28 AM
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#13
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Technical Guru
City: Wilmington, NC
Vessel Name: Louisa
Vessel Model: Custom Built 38
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 6,194
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Yea, I just made mine on a lathe and a mill. But have seen commercial ones available, I think some of the drive saver companies stock them, would need to search.
If prop shaft is too short to do a proper alignment, might be worth getting a diver to pop the prop off.
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11-25-2018, 07:23 AM
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#14
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Guru
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 22,553
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Drive savers are built to break before the engine is damaged.
Do you carry the required bolts to assemble the flanges to get home if the unit functions ?
Or a spare drive saver?
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11-25-2018, 07:36 AM
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#15
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Guru
City: Edgewater, MD
Vessel Name: Catalina Jack
Vessel Model: Defever 44
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 3,585
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FF
Drive savers are built to break before the engine is damaged.
Do you carry the required bolts to assemble the flanges to get home if the unit functions ?
Or a spare drive saver?
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If you don't, you should. I didn't and when my drive saver fractured in a lock in Ottawa, I was without prpulsion on one side. Had to drive 18 miles down the canal to a marina and wait a week for a replacment. However, without a spacer, bolts would have been useless.
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11-26-2018, 05:24 AM
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#16
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Guru
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 22,553
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"However, without a spacer, bolts would have been useless."
The bolts suggested are to mount the shaft & engine flange to flange , the way the shafts are aligned.
This will work as a get home , the new shaft saver can be installed , eventually.
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11-26-2018, 08:09 AM
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#17
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Technical Guru
City: Wilmington, NC
Vessel Name: Louisa
Vessel Model: Custom Built 38
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 6,194
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Spurs and other prop shaft line cutters sell spacers as their product often requires moving prop shaft back. Another source.
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11-30-2018, 09:08 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
City: Courtenay, BC
Vessel Name: Steadfast
Vessel Model: 3870 Bayliner
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 139
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I picked up a long ground line (long line gear for halibut fishing) at low tide in the Prince Rupert harbour. Some long line guy must have thrown a major length of line over the side in the harbour at some point? An absolute no, no. It wrapped my prop and eventually broke the drive saver. The drive saver did save the rear gear (twin disc) and engine (3208 Cat) but ripped out the stuffing box. A $7K repair and lost fishing time. In this situation a line cutter on the shaft may have been a better investment
than the drive saver?
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12-01-2018, 02:19 AM
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#19
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Guru
City: Adelaide
Vessel Name: Kokanee
Vessel Model: Cuddles 30 Pilot House Motor Sailer
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 3,218
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I have a flex coupling and have always aligned my engine & shaft with the flex coupling in place.
What is the reasoning for removing it? It is made from a fairly hard polyurethane and the flange gaps can be measured like any steel flange. Am I missing something here?
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12-01-2018, 09:02 AM
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#20
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Senior Member
City: Essington, PA.
Vessel Name: Nepidae
Vessel Model: Albin 43 Sundeck
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 370
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Aligning motor with a flexible Drive coupling
I didn't see any mention of where the alignment should be done.
Some say in the water, and some say on the hard.
I'm inclined to have it done in the water. Which I will do this year after we are splashed.
We had our 2 shafts replaced, after we had new engine mounts installed (2 sets). I had flexible couplers added which entailed making the shafts shorter. No going back as the props would hit the struts. IF I ever wanted to remove the couplers, but why would I, I'd have to get adapters.
Planning on keeping the flexible couplers, just getting another 1 to carry as a spare.
I saw a mention of cutters added to this thread.
I use a cutter-anode type, so it servers 2 purposes. Here is a link to see what they are ( http://www.seashieldmarine.com/produ...-pending-zinc/).
These have worked well for me for about 5yrs and are an economical choice.
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