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Old 09-21-2016, 10:48 PM   #21
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For anyone contemplating doing a rebuild vs. a Long Block this was my cost in Canadian dollars. I have no special skills other than the fact that I do my own maintenance on all my boats.

Just to answer any questions

The following is all in Canadian dollars including tax

New long block from Cummins $5200 delivered
Rebuild injector pump and injectors $1750
New Turbo, I had one in my spares
Heat exchanger and transmission cooler servicing $250
Haulout, blocking pressure wash and relaunch $625
4 hours crane, 2 trips at 2 hours $500
Shop time $800, includes setting up and timing injector pump and stand startup
Oil, filters and antifreeze $165
mechanic and helper for both removal and install 8 hours total $1200
impellers, sensors, paint and misc. parts $250
My time 26 hours, a gash on my head and numerous bleeding knuckles , PRICELESS

Total $10,740 CDN
For a 5.9BTA Cummins with all new or completely reconditioned parts plus I now have a spare
starter, turbo, raw water pump, alternator and solenoids to keep on board.

As a comparison a new Recon from Cummins is $22,000 US plus shipping, duty/taxes and installation, $35,000 CDN approx.
and a used (850 hours) one from Tony Athens was going to cost $15,000 US plus shipping duty/taxes and Installation, $24,500 CDN approx.

I am tired, sore in body parts I didn't know I had but pleased with the weekends work.

Things I learned:
The tool list supplied in the manual is good for everything EXCEPT removing the starter, this requires a 10mm 12 point socket instead of
a 10mm 6 point socket. If you don't have one in your tool box, get one and tag it for starter removal.
To get the engine out the door without damaging or removing any upholstery.
Remove the heat exchanger, aftercooler, alternator, pressure tank, throttle linkage and the return line check valve.
Remove the motor mount bolts from the stringer flanges then lift the engine and lower back down onto 2 2x8 boards set across the stringers. Now you can remove the motor
mounts from the block and transmission without changing the mount settings ( tag port and starboard so they go back the same way) and the engine is
skinny enough to go right out the door if you remove the door travel stops so it will open that extra two inches.
Assembly is the reverse and the alignment was perfect at the transmission to prop shaft flanges doing it this way.
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Old 09-21-2016, 11:24 PM   #22
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Good work Gary. What is your background that allowed you to jump in the middle of this effort? Again,
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Old 09-21-2016, 11:32 PM   #23
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No real background other than backyard mechanic since my teens. I am a salesman in the real world for a medium sized new home builder. Ever since I have been boating I have been aware that there is no one to help you in a breakdown "out there" so I learn as much as I can about my boat and always have the manuals for any engine I have.
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Old 09-22-2016, 04:40 PM   #24
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Glad to hear it is all done! I'm also a backyard mechanic since my teens (plus a few years working at a dealershipt), then I decided to go to grad school. Still do all the work myself (everything but bottom paint).
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Old 09-22-2016, 05:18 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bayview View Post
If you currently (6bt) dont have an aftercooler dont add one. I dont know what other changes would be necessary if you removed the cooler from that cheap engine.

Why would your old trnny not work with the new engine?
I don't sense much enthusiasm here for the NOS 6bta option, but I haven't ruled it out yet.

- although 26 years old, never installed. Owned by a marine mechanic and run from time to time on the bench.
- have been thinking about transmissions and would be comfortable using my existing VD 72. It's a little light for this motor, but I'm really not interested in going fast. I would not change my prop, and would be a little underpropped with the 6bta (250 hp vs my current 210) but that's perfectly ok with me, given everything I've read about the B series.
- yes there is an after cooler but it's coolant cooled rather than raw water cooled, which makes it less undesirable I think.

So essentially I go to the bta but with no intention of taking advantage of the extra power.

I've read that one of the issues with this motor was the fuel pump being stressed at high power output, but again I think my usage would not call for high power.

Am I missing something? What are the objections? It would appear that this option would cost about the same as a comprehensive rebuild of my existing motor.

Thanks for all the comments.
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Old 09-22-2016, 05:21 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff F View Post

I don't sense much enthusiasm here for the NOS 6bta option, but I haven't ruled it out yet.

- although 26 years old, never installed. Owned by a marine mechanic and run from time to time on the bench.
- have been thinking about transmissions and would be comfortable using my existing VD 72. It's a little light for this motor, but I'm really not interested in going fast. I would not change my prop, and would be a little underpropped with the 6bta (250 hp vs my current 210) but that's perfectly ok with me, given everything I've read about the B series.
- yes there is an after cooler but it's coolant cooled rather than raw water cooled, which makes it less undesirable I think.

So essentially I go to the bta but with no intention of taking advantage of the extra power.

I've read that one of the issues with this motor was the fuel pump being stressed at high power output, but again I think my usage would not call for high power.

Am I missing something? What are the objections? It would appear that this option would cost about the same as a comprehensive rebuild of my existing motor.

Thanks for all the comments.
Edit:. 6bta is cpl 1247, my current is 742
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Old 09-22-2016, 08:25 PM   #27
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There is no reason the NOS will not be suitable for your needs and it will save a lot of skinned knuckles. The velvet drive will be fine and it will all bolt right up without changes. New hoses may or may not be an idea and one of Tony's raw water pumps if it still runs the original Sherwood.
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Old 10-28-2016, 02:53 PM   #28
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I bought the NOS 6bta

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I have my old motor ready to pull in the next week or so and will use the existing transmission and running gear for next season so will definitely be underpropped, but I view that as a good thing. Will spend the winter replacing hoses and adding lots of sensors to the new motor (EGT, boost, temperature alarms) and cleaning and painting bilges in preparation for the new install. I may replace the fuel tanks as well. Kind of on the bubble on that, as I don't see any evidence of water intrusion or corrosion.

More to come.
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Old 10-28-2016, 02:58 PM   #29
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Anyone looking for a 6bt that runs but needs a rebuild or a NOS Velvet Drive 10-26 get in touch. Think it's a 3.04:1 reduction gear.
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Old 11-12-2016, 09:51 PM   #30
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Got my old motor out and sold it. I ended up making a lifting frame in the cabin and using rollers to move the motor back to the cockpit where it was easy to pick up with the backhoe. Now rebuilding my transmission, and will use the reverse process to get the new motor in once I have it together.


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