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Old 06-24-2014, 11:57 PM   #1
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1985 Perkins Range 4 idle issue

I hope I am in the right forum as I need help!
Where can I find information, diagrams, wiring diagrams and idle speed adjustment procedure for my 1984 Perkins Range 4, 6 cylinder turbo motors?
Why? This past weekend, I took the boat out for the first time in a few months, as I needed to repair the starter and alternator on the port motor.
The motors both started immediately (both always had a slightly low idle) and ran great for an hour, half of this at 2300 rpm and the other half getting back to the slip. I made a quick turn and went towards my slip. As I was trying to approach, the port motor died. It immediately restarted and after a few minutes it died again. I should also note the day before when trying to shut the port motor down after testing the charging system and starter, the button barely made the rpm drop and the motor shut down, but it finally did. The motor runs great at off idle conditions, no smoke, overheating or roughness.

Sorry for the long explanation, but this is why I need information to research and resolve this issue. This is my first diesel powered boat and I need help. THANK YOU!!
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Old 06-25-2014, 12:45 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Goldenstar38 View Post

1. I made a quick turn and went towards my slip. As I was trying to approach, the port motor died. It immediately restarted and after a few minutes it died again.

2. I should also note the day before when trying to shut the port motor down after testing the charging system and starter, the button barely made the rpm drop and the motor shut down, but it finally did.
Sound like you have two different issues here.

The engine should idle around 600 rpm's. If it's stalling just out of the blue at idle, the first thing I would do is change the primary filter. When mine does this that's usually the culprit. If that doesn't fix it, then you need to have someone who is familiar with Perkins engines check your pump timing and anti stall setup.

The shutdown is a push button on your dash? If yes. . . then you have a solenoid mounted just above your injector pump which pulls up a lever on the pump that shuts off the fuel and kills the engine. Work the solenoid up and down with your hand and make sure it operates smoothly and that the level returns to the run position when you let it go. Could be not actuating all the way up but could also be an electrical problem between the dash button and solenoid. My Starboard shutdown was intermittent like that for a while and finally quit working all together and I couldn't shut the engine down from the dash button. Turned out to be a pinched wire. Pulled in a new wire and all is good. Check the wire connector on top of the solenoid too, they can get corroded.
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Old 06-25-2014, 03:46 PM   #3
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Thank you, Edelweiss. I can fix anything related to a gasoline motor or carburetor, but am new to diesel.
The port motor, beyond stalling 3 times at idle docking, has continued to run well off idle to wide open throttle. Wouldn't the pump timing effect operation all the time? However, I am new to the boat and have been planning to replace all filters, so I will do this first. I will also check the fuel shut off linkages and solenoid. I found them last night.
For troubleshooting, I can compare notes from the starboard motor, as it continues to operate fine.
Thank you again and I do appreciate your reply and this forum. very helpful. If I can, I will report what I find.
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Old 06-25-2014, 03:56 PM   #4
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i'll send you a PM
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Old 06-25-2014, 03:57 PM   #5
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If it's anything like my Perkins 4.236, there should be a small idle adjustment screw on the fuel pump bellcrank for adjusting the idle speed. Sometimes they work loose from vibrations. Maybe just bumping it up slightly will solve the problem. I had a similar problem with my port engine. A slight adjustment was all that I needed. She hasn't stalled at idle since.

The solenoid runs on one hot wire and is grounded through the solenoid mount to the engine. I had to replace this one wire on my port engine due to a corroded splice from the PO. It was an easy fix running the new wire from the kill button to the solenoid. If you have a DVM, you can test the voltage on the red wire at the solenoid. If it's low, run a temporary test wire and retest the voltage. If it increases, permanently install the wire and go have a beer while you celebrate your latest victory.
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Old 06-25-2014, 04:22 PM   #6
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Sorry Golden
I couldn't attach the engine manual in a PM or message since it's too big, so in a Personal Message send me your email address and I'll send you the engine manual. The Idle adjustment procedure is on Page 53.
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Old 06-25-2014, 08:00 PM   #7
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nelsonsyachts@yahoo.com

Thank you again for your assistance, as well as to Flywright.
I look forward to resolving this issue.
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Old 06-25-2014, 08:02 PM   #8
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I have the same engines as you be it a 92 model turbo with 200bhp and with all the hours we are putting on her I keep low idle set right around 700 but manually adjust the levers to 750 or even 800 when maneuvering, especially around locks which we have done 22 in the past 4 days on the Erie. The engines just run alot sweeter at that rpm than 100rpm lower.

The shutdown issue you mentioned has also occurred to me as well and I manually operated the lever on the side of the injector pump one time and it now appears to be working as it should.

These are good engines and I am very happy with them although I did have to replace a damper plate on an injector pump yesterday my first issue in 1000 hours over the past 9 months.

Happy boating.
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Old 06-26-2014, 12:15 PM   #9
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gwKiwi, thank you for your thoughts. It sounds like we have the same motors, 200HP turbo's. However, mine barely idle at 500 rpm and you can feel this in the boat. As you said, nudging the throttles to up the idle works well and they respond well to throttle input and run great to 2400 rpm.
I am replacing the fuel filters first, as a matter of maintenance, as I am new to the boat. I have just received some additional information regarding set up and adjustment and will dive into this soon. I did check the linkages last night which are clean and free, so more electrical tests next.
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Old 06-26-2014, 01:36 PM   #10
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A little air getting in fuel can make them run snotty. Take return line off and put in a bucket of fuel. with engine running see if foam or bubbles come out of return line. If so, there may be an air leak somewhere on fuel supply.

But do change the filters first.
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Old 06-28-2014, 09:39 PM   #11
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Here is a quick follow up as to what I have found.
Based on the information I now have, I started by testing the solenoid that shuts the fuel off. The linkage was clean and free, ground wire and connection to ground good. Applied 12 volts to positive terminal and solenoid works fine.
Removed the push button that returns 12 volts to solenoid and checked for proper voltage-13.2. Started motor and nudged to 600 rpm (very nice speed) and with wires disconnected from button, I shorted them together and motor shut right off. When connectors on both wires replaced, it tried to shut down to no avail. The rpm dropped, but only 200 rpm or so. Pulled wires and shorted together, shut right down.
I think I am going to install a temporary toggle switch to see if it will shut down. If so, I will replace the button.
Thanks for everyone's help. When this is done, the filters will get changed and I plan on bumping the idle to 600 rpm, unless they increase after the new filters.
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Old 06-28-2014, 09:49 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Goldenstar38 View Post
Here is a quick follow up as to what I have found.

I think I am going to install a temporary toggle switch to see if it will shut down. If so, I will replace the button.
Sounds like progress:
But make certain that the toggle switch you install is a "Momentary" switch. (A switch that is only "on" as long as you are depressing it and returns to an "Off" state when released. Because if you switch it to "On" to activate the solenoid and leave it in the "On" state it will burn up the solenoid. . . a $50 mistake!!
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