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Old 01-16-2015, 03:48 PM   #81
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Fisheries Supply might stock it. We get ours direct from the local supplier, Rot Doctor. Wood preservation, rot repair, and restoration using epoxy resin on boats and homes.
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Old 01-16-2015, 04:49 PM   #82
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Here is one stout looking wooden boat:
Powerboats: 65' Romsdal North Sea Trawler - Listing #: 3818

5" hull thinness on 4x5" laminated oak timbers.
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Old 01-16-2015, 05:47 PM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by manyboats View Post

By the way are unlimited hydroplanes these days still made out of plywood
The wooden (plywood with mahogany stringers) ones mostly still exist, there's lots of restoration of older boats. The new boats are all composite and many use gas turbines instead of the old piston engines.
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Old 01-16-2015, 07:50 PM   #84
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Marin,
The "Rot Doctor" says their CPES is for other than varnish ... "Also used as a primer coating for paints, varnishes and polyurethanes".

TAD,
Thanks ... I've been wondering about that for years. Wood survived for a long time in that app probably mostly due to it's stiffness .. IMO.
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Old 01-16-2015, 08:59 PM   #85
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Eric-- We started using CPES some 14 years ago or so after reading many discussions about it on the GB owners forum. We use it on all raw wood that's going to be given a coat of anything. So we use it under Bristol for brightwork and under the primer for Interlux Brightside, which is the paint we use on the exterior and interior of our boat. BTW, the CPES sold by Rot Doctor is the same as the original that Smiths makes. It's just repackaged for the Rot Doctor.

Obviously CPES accomplishes nothing if it's used over an existing finish. It's only value is as an epoxy wood sealer, soaking in and filling the upper layers of wood cells with epoxy.

A technique we learned from Bob Lowe, a founder of the GB forum, is to apply the first coat of finish, be it varnish, a polyurethane like Brightside, primer for paint, or paint itself if one is not using a primer, onto the last coat of CPES while the CPES is still tacky. We've found that doing this makes it much harder for moisture to get in under the finish and lift it, with the result that the integrity of the finish, be it a bright finish or paint, is maintained a lot longer. As in years.
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Old 01-16-2015, 09:09 PM   #86
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Hey Marin thanks very much.
I'll do that when we re-finish our salon door. It's got some oil on it but not anywhere as much as the fwd deck plate. The deck plate (a backing plate on top) is heavy w oil so I'll stick to McKloskie's Spar Varnish for that. The CPES must be a great help though so I'll start using it where I have uncontaminated wood. The Bob Lowe method sounds good .. like it would establish a better bond. Adhesion is always good.
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Old 01-16-2015, 09:41 PM   #87
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Eric-- Make sure to find out if CPES can be used on wood that has finish oil in it. I don't think it can, but I may be wrong on that. Bristol cannot be used over even a trace of oil, so I may be confusing this with the rules for CPES. It should be easy enough to find out; I think the Rot Doctor website as the instructions for using CPES.
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Old 12-27-2015, 03:26 PM   #88
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Eric, CPES indispensable to sealing & stabilizing dimensional and ply stock prior to coatings/ varnish. Would avoid use w/ oiled stain products generally incompatible. As I did call Smiths up share your plan snd get their buy in or not as case may be.
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Old 12-27-2015, 06:21 PM   #89
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CPES indispensable?
I'm 76 and I haven't used it yet.
Wood is stabilized but drying under controlled conditions and protected w paint in various forms.
CPES may go a long way toward making wood more like plastic.
I've never used stain but quite a bit of oil and it does make a good pre-coating for oil based varnishes.
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Old 10-07-2016, 05:16 AM   #90
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Nomad Willy, the CPS statement is funny.


I am going to bring back up an older thread. Its really good reading. But it does take a certain mindset to own a wooden boat, old or new, not withstanding the knowledge of how to take care of one. This includes knowing what you are looking at in any restored one as it ages.

But in the modern age and the new construction methods, you can actually have a new wooden cored boat that's just as easy to take care of as any fiberglass hull of the same size. This comes after years of dealing with both types. Building a new wooden cored boat these days and done correctly, you can save tons of weight, which transfers to savings on fuel especially for planning hulls. As it relates to foam cored boats, they are noisy and are not even in the same grade.

And lastly your ride is more comfortable, period, even at displacement speeds, IMO. With an interior built with favorable cedars, saving weight and properly maintained, all of your clothes continue to smell nice over the years to boot.
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Old 03-27-2017, 04:12 PM   #91
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Wood boats ride better because they're usually heavier, full of all that water soaked wood. I've been on and around wood boats all my life. Properly maintained and painted, I don't find them any more labor intensive that any other boat. Steel rusts, gel coats fade and most cored hulls have some water intrusion. The problem with wood boats is when people don't take proper care or put off maintenance. Most owners and some boat yards don't do proper paint jobs, leaving the wood open to water and dry rot. Most paint and sealers are much better today. The big exception is wood preservers, thanks, EPA. Old wood boats and especially ships had salt boxes between the rib tops. Condensation (or leaks) that formed on the underside of the curved deck went thru the salt and down the sides. Preserving the ribs and planks. Oak and fir soaked in salt water can become very hard with age. I've ruined saw blades cutting it.
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