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Old 08-29-2012, 03:39 PM   #41
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Art my written word is , bad !

On wood boats the anode sets up an electrical flow or current against the metals under water. Part of that will be through the hull. Over protetcion can damage the wood through this proccess.

Old wood boats get a chance to experience lots and lots of marine experts. Some upon seeing an issue will believe the addition of more anodes will solve an issue when in fact it unbalances the system.

Thats just way too simple of an explanation but my written word usualy just confuses.

My guess is there be several issues goin on within this vessel. It can be a bit of a game.
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Old 08-29-2012, 04:14 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by OFB View Post
Art my written word is , bad !

On wood boats the anode sets up an electrical flow or current against the metals under water. Part of that will be through the hull. Over protetcion can damage the wood through this proccess.

Old wood boats get a chance to experience lots and lots of marine experts. Some upon seeing an issue will believe the addition of more anodes will solve an issue when in fact it unbalances the system.

Thats just way too simple of an explanation but my written word usualy just confuses.

My guess is there be several issues goin on within this vessel. It can be a bit of a game.
OFB - TY for your input on over zinc regarding a wood hull. Have any input for over zinc complications that might happen for fiberglass, or aluminum, or steel hulls? I'm always looking to learn!
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Old 08-29-2012, 05:00 PM   #43
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On metal and frp the loss of paint from the keel or hull can be caused from too much anode protection. Depends.

Usualy the result of attempting to correct other issues. It can get confusing fast.

But Art I am not a pro. Just stuff I have seen. usualy I can find or see stuff thats been changed or added onto a boats system. From there the end result seen can some times be splained.

I have used John C Payne's book along with Nigel Calders when working on old boats.

so YMMV
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Old 08-30-2012, 10:26 AM   #44
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Over zinked

Possibility guess. The boat has three divers zincs and shaft zincs. Rudders are bonded to the divers zincs. After looking at a twin 57 Chris that sank this week and was towed into Ladds who's exhaust hoses had failed and sank her, we decided to check out this boat. The aluminum silencers were both badly corroded and had large build up of corrosion under the hoses at the spigots. most of the hose clamps had snapped from the build up under the hose and spigots. The silencers were secured with aluminum straps and bronze screws that had all but dissolved under the bronze screws. The wood was badly burned white from electrical current. The bonding wires seem small by today's standards as well. This boat doesn't have isolating transformers either. The steel reinforced hoses had all failed or were failing. We pulled everything as now is the time as the who stern is opened up. The boat sits in fresh water at a private covered slip. The slip is new and well wired to code.
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Old 08-30-2012, 10:41 AM   #45
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WOW!
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Old 08-30-2012, 11:47 AM   #46
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" The wood was badly burned white "

That realy sounds like over protection. But that can be from bad bonding wires or a change to the system that creats a large cell in a specific area as well. Metals that loose the bond but can see the zinc will creat a cell ( like a battery ) through the hull. Since the cell was originaly balanced and now is not, the current created can be much larger than wanted. If the boat holds water it gets even more interesting.
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Old 08-30-2012, 12:14 PM   #47
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As we head to our Tolly for a long weekend of R&R with cruisen, hooken, smimming, friends visiting, good eaten and tow behind runabout playing, I plan to stop by Ladds today... hope so anyway. It's 9:15 AM now Thurs 8/30. We have 100 mile drive; hope to hit Ladds just past mid day. Be great if you are around. Surely don't wait, no promises from this end, cause plans can change! I'd love to see your CC project first hand

Great work... Get It On! - Art
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Old 09-05-2012, 12:31 AM   #48
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Steve – Good to meet you! Thanks for the Chris Craft “repair tour” and in-depth chat on what you’re doing to bring her back.

It was of great interest last Thursday that I had opportunity to first-hand observe your thorough 1960’s 57' CC restoration project.

In books I keep aboard, when on the hook this long weekend, I pored over galvanization/corrosion as well as bonding/isolation and anode/cathode relationships regarding wet and dry marine material protection methods. After listening to your accounts and seeing corrosion/galvanization/wood-burn problems that occurred over the long haul to the CC upon which you work (and hearing your input of the material failures that caused the recent sinking of a similar circa/size Chris) it is my continued considered opinion that comprehensive bonding (only if its full-on connection integrity can be non-stop maintained) is a viable protection method; but, that complete isolation of all materials (especially metals touching water) away from AC and DC stray currents is the best alternative for marine-material-protection methods... of course with applicably located and regularly serviced zinc anodes always in place. My feelings toward the isolation method stem from my teens and twenties working on wooden boats with shipwrights in New England boat yards. I use isolation/multi-anode method on every boat I’ve owned; to date I have not experienced unexpected galvanization or corrosion developments. In Atlantic waters my dad in the 50’s/60’s/70’s employed the isolation/anode method with equally good results.

I feel you most likely have learned more and better understand the intricacies of marine material protections than most boaters or marine-technicians regarding bonding – vs – isolation methods and would like to learn your opinion on these two virtually diametrically opposite types of protection techniques... that is if you find opportunity out of your schedule to post.

We just returned from several sun filled R&R days aboard our Tolly in the Delta... boating friends and visiting family included.

I wish you best progress on your entire project!

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Old 09-13-2012, 10:56 PM   #49
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Steve - Any new picts? How's it progressing on the 57' CC?? - Art
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Old 09-14-2012, 12:22 AM   #50
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It's going slow

Things have been frustrating as every time we think we have all the rot I discover more. We pretty much have the starboard framing repaired and ready for planks, we are waiting on new fiberglass mufflers, tomorrow maybe they will be in. This will be the second time for this boat that this repair has been done. It appears that both transom frames were replaced on the first go around. When the prior repair was done the battens were simply cut off and not re-attached to the transom. The picture of the starboard framing shows new transom frames and battens attached to the frame. Unfortunately I discovered the port frame has rot as well and it has been removed to the chine and rebuilt. I'll have pictures tomorrow. This was extremely disappointing to me as I had stared buttoning up the port side when I discovered the dry rot near the bottom of the frame.
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Old 09-14-2012, 10:36 AM   #51
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Update photos

i discovered more concealed rot while cutting batten pockets in the Port side frame. I thought this frame was solid. and was starting to button up this side.
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Old 09-14-2012, 11:39 AM   #52
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Steve

Thanks for input and picts. You've one hell of a project ongoing. If he's got the $$$ seems you got the time! Sounds like last repairs by others were not done to your level of quality. Get It On!

I get opp will stop by next time in area... not sure when yet. Will try to contact you just before to see if you will be at job site.

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Old 09-25-2012, 03:19 AM   #53
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Progress

Things have finally turned around and were putting more back in than we're removing. New transom frames and battens, four sister-ed frames and plenty of penetrating epoxy. I've decided to rebuild both gunnels and spray rails as the fastening holes are all punky with dry rot. The chine and bottom transom frame have been saturated with epoxy. The prior I'll post pictures of the current progress which has all the battens and butt blocks replaced, pretty much waiting for some stainless strapping to secure the exhaust system. I've laminated new gunnels and spray rails and will begin shaping them in the next couple of days. The corner frames are assembled with 3M 5200, the battens and caulking with Sinkaflex, all laminating has been done using waterproof Titebond. I used 5200 in the lower corners of the frames as it fills gaps better than Titebond and this is one place I want to keep dry. all planking, battens, frames, are coated with Bilge coat over Coprinal, or penetrating epoxy before or during assembly.
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Old 09-25-2012, 10:25 AM   #54
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Steve - Amazing how much rot/softwood can exist in a large woody's butt and yet it keeps its shape. Glad you are turning the corner toward eventual completion. Best luck! - Art
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Old 09-25-2012, 06:43 PM   #55
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Scary-looks like you are finally on the downhill slope. Also looks like yu are doing a very good job. You shuold have a happy, if a bunch poorer, boat owner when you are through!
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Old 10-03-2012, 11:47 AM   #56
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Scary

From the pics to me it looks like you did some work on the tanks while you where at it. What kinda shape they be in ?

I believe they are the water tanks ? but not sure.
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Old 10-10-2012, 01:01 AM   #57
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Tanks

The tanks are black iron and in good shape. We sanded loose scale and rust primed and painted with Rustoleum. Things are moving more rapidly I we are planking the transom and the hull sides are planked as hig as we can until I figure out the steps at the top of the transom. Screws, screws and more screws. Every plank and block glued ans screwed. The new fiberglass exhaust is in. all through hulls have been sand blasted and cleaned up. Deck drains had been routed into the bilge. We have installed through hulls for the deck drains below the swim platform. the swim platform is being surfaced and stripped of all old finish.
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Old 10-10-2012, 02:33 AM   #58
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With the scale of the work you have shown in your pics, can't wait to see the finshed job.
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Old 10-10-2012, 11:15 AM   #59
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Progress

Here are a few photos, I have actually three more transom planks installed. Over 100 screws per plank and 2 tubes of adhesive at $20 and the plank. Screws at .68 each plank around $5.42 bdft rough. 14 bdft per plank, about $78, plus labor. Each plank is machined from rough, fit to size, mounted and pre-drilled, removed, Sinkaflex adhesive applied to frames and backing blocks refit and clamped and screwed to the the frames and clean up. plugging or filling and finish sanding. All planks have been treated with penetrating epoxy and painted with bilge coat on the interior side before installation.
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Old 10-10-2012, 12:07 PM   #60
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Man you are moving along. Love it.

Thanks
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