Room to run wires to bridge . . .

[jwnall]

I guess back in 1973 they didn't plan on running a lot of wires from below to the bridge for the Gulfstar 36. But by the time the shift cables, throttle cables, basic 12-volt feed, and a few electronics are run, there doesn't seem to be much room left inside that square post next to the helm! So I am thinking of making some more room (one of the nice things about an old boat is that I do not mind in the least drilling new holes!). However, I have found in the past that rather than going off half-cocked, it is better to let the idea marinate for a bit. While it is doing so, have any of you other Gulfstar owners done this? If so, what was your approach, and how well did it work out?

John

 

[psneeld]

easiest and most decorative way to run stuff up is in a nice stainless or brass tube...many boats come that way and if you can do it without interfering too bad with visibility...makes everything a bit easier and looks nice too.

 

[jwnall]

easiest and most decorative way to run stuff up is in a nice stainless or brass tube...many boats come that way and if you can do it without interfering too bad with visibility...makes everything a bit easier and looks nice too.

Yes, I think (after a lot of mulling it over) that running a 3" pipe from floor to ceiling would be best. For those of you are are Gulfstar 36 owners, and thus can visualize what I am saying, I'm going to run it from just inside the sliding door next to the wall, so that the wires come out inside the starboard storage compartment (lazarette?) of the bridge, since that opens directly into the underside of the instrument panel. And am pondering whether or not I should run a mate for it on the port side. Trouble there is that the couch is in the way. But may do it anyway, since it sure would be handy, and the pair would take care of all the wires I might ever want to run.

John

 

[CaptTom]

I spent some time this weekend fishing wires, and I also pulled out a lot of old wire from instruments that are no longer installed. I actually ended up with more room, not less, in the pipe that goes to the flybridge.

Thinking about it, in the future I see less wires, not more. Nowadays all electronics just plug into a NMEA 2000 backbone.

 

[jwnall]

Thinking about it, in the future I see less wires, not more. Nowadays all electronics just plug into a NMEA 2000 backbone.

You might be right. The eventual way to go would be a wi-fi type box which ties everything together. Unfortunately, for right now, especially for those of us who work on a fairly low boat budget, wires seem to still be the connecting medium.

Your comments about removing old wires struck home, by the way. I need to do that also. Cannot help but wonder why they didn't just remove them at the time they were disconnected! Grrr!

John

 

[Victor_Chat]

Our 43 has a brass pole that is used to run wires. I have replaced a few old wires that were no longer in use with new. Still a tight squeeze though.

 

[CaptTom]

Unfortunately, for right now, especially for those of us who work on a fairly low boat budget, wires seem to still be the connecting medium.

Yeah, same here. I'm probably going to run out of space in the pipe long before I get things switched over to NMEA 2000. I still have things to install that I want hard-wired, like bilge high-water alarm, engine exhaust temp alarm, etc.

 

[psneeld]

Yeah, same here. I'm probably going to run out of space in the pipe long before I get things switched over to NMEA 2000. I still have things to install that I want hard-wired, like bilge high-water alarm, engine exhaust temp alarm, etc.

As long as they are just alarms and not gauges...they don't need to be at the lower or upper helm.

My high water alarm is not near any of my gauges but can be heard throughout the boat including the flybridge as it is so loud.

 

[On The Rocks]

Measure and check the angles if you plan on running a tube next to he wall. I ran a 2inch stainless exhaust pipe and had to run it through the starboard side lower corner of the driving station in order for it to be vertical. The floor is wider than the ceiling so if you put it next to the wall it will have to run at an angle. I chose the two inch because I wanted an isolated run for a propane line and I wanted it to go through the teak window vallance to get it as close to the wall as I could while still remaining vertical. It came through in the flybridge storage area about two feet from the existing one.

 

[On The Rocks]

Also cleaned out the unused wires from the existing run. I replaced the 4 lever engine controls with 2 lever Glendinning electronic controls. Got rid of the cables and made lots of room for wires. If anyone needs cables and controls fo a 36, I'll give them to you if you pay for packing and shipping.

 

[Gulfstar 36]

How are your old cables? What year is your boat?

Also cleaned out the unused wires from the existing run. I replaced the 4 lever engine controls with 2 lever Glendinning electronic controls. Got rid of the cables and made lots of room for wires. If anyone needs cables and controls fo a 36, I'll give them to you if you pay for packing and shipping.

 

[jwnall]

Also cleaned out the unused wires from the existing run. I replaced the 4 lever engine controls with 2 lever Glendinning electronic controls. Got rid of the cables and made lots of room for wires.

First time I have heard of the Glendinning electronic controls! (I have vast gaps in my knowledge). Was it difficult to replace the 4-lever controls with that system? Would you recommend it?

John

 

[On The Rocks]

The boat is a 1976 36 MKII, the cables are I would guess six years old and worked fine when I took them out.

The Glendinning system uses mechanical actuators and cables in the engine room to push and pull the levers on the fuel injector pumps and transmission. The controls at the driving stations are networked to the actuators electronically.

http://www.glendinningprods.com/products/engine-controls/mechanical/178-smart-actuator-2

I like only having to deal with one lever for each engine when docking and it's easy to synchronize the engines when cruising. You can also add stuff like remote controls and more control heads easily if you like gadgets. If you have lots of cash and want joystick controls, the system will integrate with exturn thrusters to do that too.

However, I will say that the "feel" of the electronic controls is differen't. The cable controlls felt more precise, the electronics aren't sloppy but just don't feel the same as pusing and pulling the cables with a direct connection.

 

[Nomad Willy]

Many of you yachty types won't find this acceptable but here's what I do w wires running to the radar arch.

See the wires under the window held in place w Adel type clamps? Not as slick as hidden wires but quite easy to do and especially easy re changes that come along.

I run the wires through the overhead and through a through-hull. I had a nice chrome one about 2" or so and I put it through the overhead up side down ... threaded end above. Looks nice in the cabin and w a "U" shaped truck coolant hose that goes up and then down all rain is kept out. The hose is not clamped .. just a nice snug fit.

As they say ... "works for me".

 

[On The Rocks]

Here are some pics of what I did. The large tube on the left is original. The small one on the right, sorry, starboard, is stainless exhaust pipe that I ran my propane line through. Notice that at the top it is as close to the wall as possible behind the vallance. However, in order to have it be truly vertical I had to bring it through the driving station about six inches from the wall. Good thing I measred everything before cutting holes!

 

[jwnall]

Many of you yachty types won't find this acceptable but here's what I do w wires running to the radar arch. .

I guess my take on the "unacceptability" of open wires would be that if I thought I might eventually sell my boat then I would probably want them out of sight. However, I have no intention of ever selling it (it will go to my kids, who will fervently wish that they had the money instead!), so open wires are fine. Your setup looks very neat.

John

 

[Bay Pelican]

Open wires are great, just like a warship. Now however with Navy women aboard the wires will start being hidden. (a joke)

 

[Billylll]

I used KE-4 Morse Teleflex single handled per side electronic throttles and shifts in my Mainship. They are fantastic I'm thinking about doing the same with the Gulfstar 36 Mark II. They have been flawless in their operations for the last 8 seasons since they were installed. As suggested add a NMEA2000 network and MFD's and you will have even less cables. What did the Glendenning system cost you?
Billylll

 

[On The Rocks]

I honestly don't remember what the glendinning system cost me. I want to say around 5K.

 

[Billylll]

That's a great price if you are close in memory. The Morse Teleflex KE-4A system was considerably more $$$.
Thanks I'll research pricing for the Glendinning system.
Bill

 

[rwidman]

Before you do too much, go to your home center or better yet, an electrical supply house and look at metallic or plastic raceway, mostly "Wiremold" brand. There are many styles, sizes and a couple colors. Of course you can paint it.

One of these may suit your purpose. Or not.