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Old 12-31-2018, 03:12 PM   #21
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The noise generated by the hard chine was disturbingly obvious the first night I spent on the boat. I too thought about how to fix it, but it looks like your modification is the only true fix. It looks most excellent from the pictures. I wonder why NT bragged so much about the design. My layman's opinion is that any sharp corner will reduce the efficiency of the hull. I assume the shape has something to do with generating lift or controlling the bow wave. Regardless, the elimination of the slapping at anchor would rate higher than any possible improvement in wave action. Besides, the shape that you ended up with after the modification looks to be much better than the original.
Coming from a sailing background, I was horrified with beam reaching to the Islands in a power boat. On the Sea-Trial I couldn't believe how much it rolled. I didn't consider that I had turned across the waves in a 20 knot breeze and held it there.

The Surveyor was great and taught me a lot after he quit laughing at me. He praised the NT hull shape and it's seaworthiness and comfort in rough weather. He suggested that I would learn to make course and speed adjustments to minimize discomfort, and I have. He referred me to some articles about sea-keeping properties of various hull designs and as I've cruised and fished with my new set of "Stink-Potter" friends on a variety of displacement, semi-displacement and planing hulls, I have to agree that the NT is worthy of praise.

I think the hard chine does dig in and give you a bit more control in rough conditions and reduced speeds, and it surely throws spray away from your foredeck. That said, If you are at full cruising speed, I doubt you could tell the difference. I am not qualified to lecture about any of this. YMMV.

Bottom line is I am thrilled with the quiet in the harbor and coming out of my home port in a crisp, square wind chop. The boat still handles great in open water. Only downside for me was the cost, but as a fraction of what the boat cost it was OK with me.

I still suspect that if I were still in the PNW (where I used to sail the Puget Sound,) or if I was Looping or cruising the ICW or keys, I would be able to anchor in more protected coves (most of the time?) and it likely would not be a problem just as it is from the factory. If you Search out the Nordic Tug Owners lists you will find articles about the mod. I saw one that was done by the owner -- admittedly not quite as pretty, but a whole lot less money and it did the job.

David
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Old 12-31-2018, 03:19 PM   #22
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I've thought of doing this to my AT34 which has a similar hull and a similar problem. It occurs to me that it should be possible to mold some separate pieces which fill the space. They could be stuck on with epoxy or even 5200. There would be a little tooling to do, but the per install cost would be a small fraction of the work shown in the pictures. Wish I had the time to do it, there are enough NT32 and AT34 in the world that the market is fairly large.
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Old 12-31-2018, 04:39 PM   #23
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Welcome from the Great Lakes.
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Old 01-01-2019, 02:05 AM   #24
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I've thought of doing this to my AT34 which has a similar hull and a similar problem. It occurs to me that it should be possible to mold some separate pieces which fill the space. They could be stuck on with epoxy or even 5200. There would be a little tooling to do, but the per install cost would be a small fraction of the work shown in the pictures. Wish I had the time to do it, there are enough NT32 and AT34 in the world that the market is fairly large.
I can't think of any reason that it wouldn't work. 5200 is amazing. Cosmetics might be an issue, and tooling up would be relatively expensive.
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Old 01-01-2019, 07:19 AM   #25
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A great fix!
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