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Old 09-11-2013, 09:31 PM   #21
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Yes ps, it is 5/16. Thanks for catching that.
As often as people speak of hefty anchors and chain I just had to know...I pretty much guessed 5/16 as most windlasses within reason will handle 5/16 or 3/8 but 5/8 was gonna really trigger my interest.

I'm sure if you could and wanted to handle it...it would be a huge difference in moderate conditions...heck just lifting the chain off the bottom would take a pretty good bow.

Again more curiosity than trying to put you on the spot...as I figured it was a typo...
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Old 09-11-2013, 09:51 PM   #22
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ps,

I'm sure based on observing the anchor buoy, winds, currents, debris on the chain, and location of the boat before and after anchoring, that on several occasions the pile of chain on the bottom was all that was holding the boat overnight.
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Old 09-11-2013, 10:45 PM   #23
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Well Mark it ain't much of a hook if it won't grab a bunch of mud.

I did that in Calder Bay. With a Danforth. So much ugly black stinky mud I don't think anything but the end of the shank was visible. Took me 20 minutes to clean it off and I could smell that mud on my hands for weeks.

Do I have thoughts of a wash down system? YES
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Old 09-11-2013, 11:44 PM   #24
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Eric, you have proved my point. And just think of the damage done hauling up a portion of the seabed. (I can imagine that by the middle of this century, anchoring in coastal/estuarian waters will be illegal.)
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Old 09-12-2013, 12:24 AM   #25
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My boat is light with an 80 pound anchor, 33 feet of chain and 3/4” nylon single braid. In light winds and shifting tides, the rode would wrap around coral heads and rocks as the boat floats around. I opened the braid and inserted a ” poly braid. It now floats. Its just a little more bulk but still handles and stores ok. the line also floats above the mud.
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Old 09-12-2013, 05:03 AM   #26
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Great idea boatgm.

Adapting to suit the local conditions is a better idea than listening to a world wide group opinion.
I use a type of stockless anchor designed almost 200 years ago. They are one of the few anchors that will get through the heavy weed beds found in this area. Almost every local fishing boat uses them but they are rarely seen outside South Australia.
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Old 09-12-2013, 05:54 AM   #27
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Over the years Bay Pelican has used a Bruce, Fortress, CQR, and Nordhill, and a Rocna. I have read the reports on the different capabilities of the anchors. We anchor out almost all the time. The reports are one thing and can be endlessly debated. I note however that in the Caribbean, an anchoring mecca, that the CQRs and Danfords are disappearing being replaced by the newer generation of engineered anchors. The going price for a CQR on the cruisers' nets is dropping. 10 years ago CQRs were the regular anchor.

If you are buying an anchor the newer models deserve a close look.

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Old 09-12-2013, 06:05 AM   #28
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<So looking to anchor more, in conditions from Maine to Bahamas’ therefore Danford only won't cut it>

A SINGLE Danforth may not cut it but a second anchor solves the problem.

Read OGGs (the Danforth designer ) free booklet.

If going to the Bahamas , you MUST use the Bahamian moring in many tiny anchorages and creeks.

So just evolve a simple setup and do it every night.

Less than 5 min is required and it adds tremendously to the boats safety , and allows anchoring near , in established mooring fields as well.


.On our 50 we drop a 60H is at the bow.

A 20H with 5 ft of chain and a rode of 7/16 or 1/2 line is dropped AT the stern

Walk the line outboard to the bow and give a good tug to set the anchor.

Play out more stern line so the 5-1 7-1 line / depth is observed and tie it off. DONE!

IN the AM if the wind or current hasnt changed simply walk the line to the stern and give a tug. An old sailboat winch stern mounted is a help, if the wind was high Onite in the reverse direction .

Many times we simply rip the almost straight up anchor out bu either motoring ahead a few ft . or use the bow Hyd windlass to pull the boat fwd.

The stern anchor line is coiled and tied off for its next use.

On out 33ft 90/90 Cutter rig a 35H is at the bow and a 12H at the stern.
With 54 ft mast it probably has the same windage as most 40 ft motor boats.

The Danforths are great , but in some bottoms a different STYLE anchor is required , we use a 60 CQR to get thru the tall grass.
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Old 09-12-2013, 08:36 AM   #29
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Thank you everyone, a lot of good insight, I agree one anchor cannot do it all, this was more of a case when I need to buy another, more of a primary are the new generation anchors all they are cracked up to be. Interestingly enough when reading threads from say 2006, a lot has changed with company's changing hands and costs to distributors. Something as traditional as an anchor still is evolving.
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Old 09-12-2013, 09:41 AM   #30
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Anchors are a compromise of attributes. None do everything best.

We have anchored out almost 50 times so far on the Great Loop and never had a problem setting or holding. We are using a 44 lb claw anchor with 300 feet of 5/8" chain. The bottoms have been mostly sand, clay, or grass. Under these conditions I suspect that any style anchor would have performed just as well.

Bigger is better if you have room.
You can get a good Kedge if you want. They have many larger too.

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Kingston Yachtsman anchor 38lb. OVERSIZE! This item exceeds standard freight size limits. Additional shipping charges may be applied to your order at time of shipment. The yachtsman anchor is more dependent on weight for holding power than the plow once it is set. It will hold tenaciously. This has earned it an excellent reputation as a storm anchor. It is a good anchor where others have difficulties, in rocks and heavy weeds, and is less sensitive to low scope. This is a great advantage in tight anchorages. Made in Canada.

http://store.hamiltonmarine.com/brow...83/4,1190.html
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Old 09-13-2013, 05:34 AM   #31
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<Something as traditional as an anchor still is evolving.>
The concept of being able to charge $10 or $20 for simple welded steel creates the desire for < a more better> modern anchor.

Nonsense tests are the backbone of the <modern> anchor shlockers.
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Old 09-13-2013, 08:43 AM   #32
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The concept of being able to charge $10 or $20 for simple welded steel creates the desire for < a more better> modern anchor.

Nonsense tests are the backbone of the <modern> anchor shlockers.
Can't say I understand your statement, tell me where this $10 or $20 anchor is?

Coming from the aero industry we never felt testing was nonsense, although I would agree, flight testing that followed was just as important.

Like everything I research, I like to hear all the opinions, look at some data and historically come to a good decision for me, but forums likes these are a good source of data based on real world experience.
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Old 09-13-2013, 09:27 AM   #33
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<Can't say I understand your statement, tell me where this $10 or $20 anchor is?>

OOOOPS

Thats $10 or $20 PER POUND for simple welded steel.
Go price a 35 or 60 lb anchor , about the same per pound as a landing gear assembly.

<we never felt testing was nonsense,>

You were testing to find out if something actually worked or was worth the effort.

Anchor testing is done to knock the existing competition , not prove ANYTHING!
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Old 09-13-2013, 09:47 AM   #34
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Actually there have been independent anchor tests which give good information. The information however is conclusive only in that anchors generally have different strong points and different weak points. You must select the anchor based on where and how you anchor. An important factor is what is your secondary anchor and thus what needs does it cover.

In the last five years certain anchors or types of anchors have fallen out of favor for general use (in terms of new purchases). The new engineered anchors have many proponents and some justification for their popularity.

There is no best anchor only very good anchor choices for a particular type of use.

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Old 09-13-2013, 09:50 AM   #35
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Marlinmike,
There's a lot of good objective stuff in anchor tests but when you see an anchor that has 20 times the holding power as several anchors that have been used by millions for very long periods of time and most all think they perform well. But relative things can often be taken to the bank. One can rightfully be very suspect when one sees an ad for the anchor that is the star of the test included in the test.

There is however some truth in what FF says here. Always colorfully said though.

Marty seems to have the anchor smoke well sorted out.
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Old 09-13-2013, 09:54 AM   #36
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One thing really good about this forum, like some sailing ones is you guys do get out, whereas some sites when googled the guy anchors twice a year in a sunny sandy cove and LOVES his super supreme fort anchorista. So yea, need to take it all in, thanks again everyone and colorful is good too!
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Old 09-13-2013, 10:48 AM   #37
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the problem I have with many anchor tests is many don't simulate a submerged anchor...and sand react totally different when covered in water...and often they don't simulate surge coonditions.

Some of the newer tests might...but I haven't reviewed them because the anchor tests from ten years ago or more were really poorly done in my opinion....at least to draw the conclusions that were published.
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Old 09-13-2013, 06:42 PM   #38
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For Erics perusal.
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Old 09-13-2013, 11:51 PM   #39
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For Erics perusal.
in that anchors past there must of been a really pissed on skipper that couldn't figure why the hook wouldn't set.

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Old 09-14-2013, 05:15 AM   #40
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in that anchors past there must of been a really pissed on skipper that couldn't figure why the hook wouldn't set.

HOLLYWOOD
Maybe it set and held too well! His anchor rode probably let go or had to be cut.
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