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Old 12-28-2013, 08:15 PM   #41
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Xsbank,
Yea I got one of those too. It's too big for my boat.
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Old 12-29-2013, 02:23 PM   #42
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I changed these one by a 3500 Maxwell
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Old 05-01-2014, 07:49 AM   #43
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Alemao, what made you decide to do the change?
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Old 05-01-2014, 12:30 PM   #44
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Go with electric windlass and my vote is for a vertical type. They handle rope and chain and depending how your pulpit rollers are set up can take a strain from a angle. Also get the power up and down. I went with the Ideal company which has been in the business for a long time and builds well respected windlasses.
Bill
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Old 05-01-2014, 03:41 PM   #45
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As long as everyone is speaking up, me too: go with power.

I will tell you the difference a windlass made in our life afloat (with the 40'er) -- the addition of a windlass meant we would move the boat versus taking the dink to the better diving spots. It allowed a degree of freedom that we didn't realize we missed prior to the addition of a windlass.

On Seaweed, I'd planned a windlass for year three of ownership. After hauling in the anchor (and chain) in 20+ feet of water twice, I found I'm not as young as I once was. I do not know that I could have done it a third time by myself. So, I opted to pay the bucks and get a vertical Lewmar (V700)

I take my anchoring seriously.

Your boat is much larger and it's totally worth it to have the ability to push a button and haul in the chain. I have had to do so once -- a boat (bigger than mine) was dragging down on me. It was easy enough to start the engine, pull up the chain (stopping to remove the snubber) and voila: I moved.

More advice: I like my wired remote -- it lives on a hook inside my forward hatch for easy access. For me, I'm not comfortable with the wireless ones and have seen too many of the deck push ones that have failed. And yes, I want to be on the bow when the anchor comes up versus inside.

And as long as I'm spending your money (gosh, this is fun!) you might as well go with a chain counter too. On a relative scale of $$ spent, it's not that much. Instead I've painted my chain but the counters are better.

Whatever you do, mark the last ten feet (paint it) so you'll know when you're near the bitter end. And have the end attached to the inside the anchor locker with a small piece of line so you could buoy it off if that was ever necessary. If you're anchoring in 50' of water, I'd have that line at a minimum 75' long, and a fender handy to snap onto the end of the small line.

In my opinion, of course.

P.S. - I like the hawsepipe idea... this article about Anja as a picture of their set-up. I like that the chain comes from the waterline.
http://janice142.com/Articles/SprayReplicaAnja.html
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Old 05-01-2014, 05:01 PM   #46
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Power, with up and down.
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Old 05-01-2014, 07:34 PM   #47
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Power. (redundant period)

I find both the foot deck switches and the little toggle switch in the pilothouse very useful in different circumstances. In tough wind conditions the ability to take up slack while motoring toward the anchor is invaluable. In calm conditions, retrieving the tackle from a muddy bottom, the foot switches (and thanks for mentioning it Janice) chain counter and washdown faucet are the way to go.

I have the horizontal kind. It came with the boat. It has both the chain gypsy and the (insert correct nautical - brain fart - word) drum. With an appropriately placed snatch block the drum can be used for a variety of purposes. I can use mine to lift the dingy or most importantly the admiral could use to haul me back in with the lifesling. The snatch block is set for use with the davits.

With electric I would have the engine running. That alternator + batteries is just good sense.

Hydraulic envy - is that a bad thing? Living with what ya got is a good thing.

I pulled crab pots in my youth. I can still out pull many a stronger/younger man. We used all the advantage of the tide and propulsion. But when Neptune challenges one, human intelligence (preparedness) is needed.

By the way, I use the free fall method of deploying the anchor. The clutch works only on the chain gypsy. The drum is always "in gear".
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Old 05-04-2014, 07:06 PM   #48
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Saltydog- I'd hope others would be interested in more detail on the setting up using the snatch block configuration on lifting your skiff to the top of the house. That concept holds considerations over installing a dedicated boom system or expensive crane. Even a drawing on the back of a napkin submission.
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Old 05-05-2014, 01:40 AM   #49
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Eric, do you know who made 'our' windlass? I need another block for the brake, it's perishing. Yours doesn't have a brake that I can see, perhaps it was a mod. Does yours have a reversing motor to control the free fall?
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Old 05-05-2014, 09:43 AM   #50
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I'm either at the tail end of a refit or in the middle of one (lol).

I'll remember the request and respond appropriately when I am able.
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Old 05-05-2014, 10:02 AM   #51
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Xsbank,
Here's two more pics and on one you can clearly see the brake drum. The control lever is on the right.
Don't know who made it. Iv'e seen quite a few others in AK so they are not uncommon.
Re the hyd motor I don't know really but I was under the impression they all work both ways. Just a matter of how they are "plumbed". Reverse the flow in the inlets and the direction of rotation is reversed. I'm sure the motor would need to be rebuilt as it was sitting out in the AK weather (Klawock) for several years.
It shows plenty of wear but seems quite serviceable. I had planned on polishing the exterior and anodizing the drum and levers ect black or gold.
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Old 05-05-2014, 10:55 AM   #52
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That's the exact one I've got but mine has a wheel that controls the drum and it has a one-way motor. Mine has also been damaged at some time. I like your brake arrangement. Polishing would be pointless as you will have to do it over and over. If you uses an etching cleaner it will look a lot better and will last longer. If you use an hydroflouric acid-based cleaner, just be damn careful, its incredibly evil stuff if you get it on your skin.

I'll try and post a photo.
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Old 05-05-2014, 10:56 AM   #53
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In my own defence it's much cleaner now, that was a photo from the listing!
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Old 05-05-2014, 01:54 PM   #54
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I've got an Ideal vertical windlass. Seems OK, but no gypsy, so I have to haul the 15 feet of chain by hand.

Wondering if anyone has used a neoprene capstan? I have read they can be used for both rope and chain as they are sufficiently soft to grip the chain.

Another limitation with my setup is that the windlass only has a bow switch. I have been in conditions where it was impossible to keep a foot on the switch to activate the windlass. Even on my hands and knees, I was sliding around on the bow while trying to keeping tension on the rode while depressing the windlass switch. Challenging, to say the least.
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Old 05-05-2014, 02:40 PM   #55
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AusCan,
You need to find some calmer waters. I've not had that problem and my bow rail doesn't go all the way fwd either. The one switch works fine for me except that I accedentially step on it at times and the capstan motor and gears makes so much noise I just about jump overboard. PNW anchorages are usually protected and calm. Frequently windy but w no fetch.

Xsbank,
As you can see I have a lever instead of a wheel on the stbd side. And my secondary sprocket is much larger so perhaps mine has more power and less speed assuming the motor is the same speed. Yours looks nicer than mine. But I think mine's had a hard life. The weak link of these reel winches (once you get past the commercial look (if you need to )) is the capacity for a long rode. I've got a 435' rode (mostly 5/8ths nylon line) and it won't fit on the drum. I may go w two rodes .. one a 150' all chain (working rode) and the other the 435' nylon for emergencies and storm anchoring. To get the reel winch going for me I'd have to rebuild the motor, buy and install the pump w electric clutch, get the necessary valves and other plumbing and all installed. Are you shopping for mine?
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Old 05-06-2014, 02:46 AM   #56
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I have 300' of 3/4" and 100' of 5/16 high test, it seems to fit but it's probably because it's still organized.

I wasn't actually shopping as mine is gnarly but serviceable. I don't like my brake much as it's very stiff, has resisted all efforts to free it up and it's difficult for my wife to operate. I could be tricked into getting a spare if the price was right...
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Old 05-06-2014, 07:42 AM   #57
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An SL 555 has a 10-1 gearing with the handle in the hi speed socket and a 40-1 gearing in the low speed socket.

Once a week a tiny bit of manual labor on a lake bound boat does not seem extreme.

With 40 ft of 3/8 chain and a 60lb anchor the work on a few weekends would be less than the usual maint required to keep the white smoke inside an electric unit.

The piece of mind KNOWING it will work , as required , would add to the enjoyment of time away from the dock.
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Old 05-06-2014, 10:38 AM   #58
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Xsbank,
Don't want to sell it now as much as I did before as I may still use it. The guy wanted $900 for it in AK ... paid $450. Here's another pic that shows the low gear ratio of the chain drive sprockets.
Sounds like we're in the same boat as my winch situation isn't perfect either but actually gets the job done. So many other projects on the boat I'll not employ the reel winch anytime soon.
What is that box like thing below your winch that looks a bit like another winch? Ever posted a pic of your boat?

AusCan,
So your "Ideal" isn't ideal either?

FF,
So we're all supposed to know what an SL 555 is?
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Old 05-06-2014, 10:45 AM   #59
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Old 05-06-2014, 11:03 AM   #60
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Indeed Oliver I have heard of them. Thanks
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