Windlass ???

[gwkiwi]

My Maxwell 2200 VWC windlass needs a full service and this is one item I have not performed before.

The on line manual from Maxwell breaks down the individual components but does not give detailed instructions on servicing.

It doesnt appear to be a too dificult a job but I would appreciate input from others who have performed this service.

Thanks

 

[FF]

>Although Europe requires more training for boat handling than we do here,<

ZERO demonstrated boat handling skill is required to be a commercial <captian> in the US.

 

[dhmeissner]

I liked reading through this thread. One thing I'm thinking lately to spend my money on is to upgrade my windlass. Now I have an old Powerwinch.

Which to be honest I haven't used much.
But I'd like to do something like this:

Or this:

I'm thinking of going the Lewmar H2 like this:
Horizontal Windlasses products

Comments?

 

[FF]

With no coral in a lake a 5 ft hunk of chain and proper sized nylon should do just fine.

The hand job can be a 2 speed like a SL 555 , so you have a 10-1 for fast and a 40-1 for slow recovery.

A small electric job Capstan style (vertical drum) with the line just tailed on deck would be easier to live with than going thru the whole chain locker and down feed exercise.The nylon on deck is faster to deploy , and doesnt stink below while drying.

Remember unless the windlass is a monstrous over size , hundreds of pounds it is NOT to hold the boat while anchored , simply to get the anchor gear back aboard.

 

[rwidman]

If you're the sort who has to do things the hard way, a manual windlass is the way to go. If you normally do things the modern way (like a washer and dryer instead of beating your clothes on a rock in the river and hanging them on tree limbs to dry), you'll be much happier with a powered windlass.

My boat came with a manual windlass and it took me just a very few times of raising the anchor to decide to install a powered windlass.

In rough seas, would you rather hang on to a rail and push a button with your foot or try to winch up an anchor and chain by hand?

 

[Nomad Willy]

dhmeissner,
I would do fine w your capstan as I use 5/8ths nylon w 15' of chain (12' of 5/16ths and 3' of 3/8ths) and anchors weighing (most of the time) not over 22lbs. I pull the rode w the winch till I get to the chain and pull the chain by hand. If you used a Manson Supreme 25lb anchor you would do as well and I've never dragged. You are probably younger than me and could easily pull a bit more chain as well.

How does the Powerwinch work?

 

[Xsbank]

Hydraulic - this is an old shot of mine, it's shinier now and the Danforth is toast.

The bottom box is a locker with a spare rode in case the main one goes south.

 

[BruceK]

My Maxwell 2200 VWC windlass needs a full service ... The on line manual from Maxwell breaks down the individual components but does not give detailed instructions on servicing.It doesn`t appear to be a too difficult a job but I would appreciate input from others who have performed this service.

You might get some help from the Muir site, Muir - Here for the long haul - The World Power In Anchoring Systems - Storm, Atlantic, Compact Winches. It gives step by step instructions for servicing. There may be differences but I suspect there is one way to build a winch.

 

[Off Duty]

Man, I'm going with everyone else on this one. Power only (your choice elect/hyd).

I'm 57 and in pretty good condition. Having hauled up more than a couple of anchors in my day on both big and small boats, and being the designated deck ape on my buddy's center console when we're out, I regularly haul and set the anchor. Since we usually were not in a hurry, I considered it another form of "Primal" training.

Unfortunately, a few months ago doing crossfit, I sustained a decent rotator cuff injury.
I can tell you that on many occasions since, I've dreaded the hauling up part of the equation, and it's a relatively light anchor.

Never thought such a piddly little injury could be such a pain!

So again, as we age, or in the event of an injury, a power unit is going to be worth it's weight in gold!

Just my buck-fiddy on the matter.

OD

 

[Alemao]

I just changed my Maxwell windlass by a bran new one. Off duty, if you are interested, J still bave the old one working

 

[Nomad Willy]

Xsbank,
Yea I got one of those too. It's too big for my boat.

 

[Alemao]

I changed these one by a 3500 Maxwell

 

[David Dennis]

Alemao, what made you decide to do the change?

 

[HiDHo]

Go with electric windlass and my vote is for a vertical type. They handle rope and chain and depending how your pulpit rollers are set up can take a strain from a angle. Also get the power up and down. I went with the Ideal company which has been in the business for a long time and builds well respected windlasses.
Bill

 

[janice142]

As long as everyone is speaking up, me too: go with power.

I will tell you the difference a windlass made in our life afloat (with the 40'er) -- the addition of a windlass meant we would move the boat versus taking the dink to the better diving spots. It allowed a degree of freedom that we didn't realize we missed prior to the addition of a windlass.

On Seaweed, I'd planned a windlass for year three of ownership. After hauling in the anchor (and chain) in 20+ feet of water twice, I found I'm not as young as I once was. I do not know that I could have done it a third time by myself. So, I opted to pay the bucks and get a vertical Lewmar (V700)

I take my anchoring seriously.

Your boat is much larger and it's totally worth it to have the ability to push a button and haul in the chain. I have had to do so once -- a boat (bigger than mine) was dragging down on me. It was easy enough to start the engine, pull up the chain (stopping to remove the snubber) and voila: I moved.

More advice: I like my wired remote -- it lives on a hook inside my forward hatch for easy access. For me, I'm not comfortable with the wireless ones and have seen too many of the deck push ones that have failed. And yes, I want to be on the bow when the anchor comes up versus inside.

And as long as I'm spending your money (gosh, this is fun!) you might as well go with a chain counter too. On a relative scale of $$ spent, it's not that much. Instead I've painted my chain but the counters are better.

Whatever you do, mark the last ten feet (paint it) so you'll know when you're near the bitter end. And have the end attached to the inside the anchor locker with a small piece of line so you could buoy it off if that was ever necessary. If you're anchoring in 50' of water, I'd have that line at a minimum 75' long, and a fender handy to snap onto the end of the small line.

In my opinion, of course.

P.S. - I like the hawsepipe idea... this article about Anja as a picture of their set-up. I like that the chain comes from the waterline.
http://janice142.com/Articles/SprayReplicaAnja.html

 

[N4712]

Power, with up and down.

 

[SaltyDog]

Power. (redundant period)

I find both the foot deck switches and the little toggle switch in the pilothouse very useful in different circumstances. In tough wind conditions the ability to take up slack while motoring toward the anchor is invaluable. In calm conditions, retrieving the tackle from a muddy bottom, the foot switches (and thanks for mentioning it Janice) chain counter and washdown faucet are the way to go.

I have the horizontal kind. It came with the boat. It has both the chain gypsy and the (insert correct nautical - brain fart - word) drum. With an appropriately placed snatch block the drum can be used for a variety of purposes. I can use mine to lift the dingy or most importantly the admiral could use to haul me back in with the lifesling. The snatch block is set for use with the davits.

With electric I would have the engine running. That alternator + batteries is just good sense.

Hydraulic envy - is that a bad thing? Living with what ya got is a good thing.

I pulled crab pots in my youth. I can still out pull many a stronger/younger man. We used all the advantage of the tide and propulsion. But when Neptune challenges one, human intelligence (preparedness) is needed.

By the way, I use the free fall method of deploying the anchor. The clutch works only on the chain gypsy. The drum is always "in gear".

 

[Al]

Saltydog- I'd hope others would be interested in more detail on the setting up using the snatch block configuration on lifting your skiff to the top of the house. That concept holds considerations over installing a dedicated boom system or expensive crane. Even a drawing on the back of a napkin submission.
Thanks,
Al

 

[Xsbank]

Eric, do you know who made 'our' windlass? I need another block for the brake, it's perishing. Yours doesn't have a brake that I can see, perhaps it was a mod. Does yours have a reversing motor to control the free fall?

 

[SaltyDog]

I'm either at the tail end of a refit or in the middle of one (lol).

I'll remember the request and respond appropriately when I am able.

 

[Nomad Willy]

Xsbank,
Here's two more pics and on one you can clearly see the brake drum. The control lever is on the right.
Don't know who made it. Iv'e seen quite a few others in AK so they are not uncommon.
Re the hyd motor I don't know really but I was under the impression they all work both ways. Just a matter of how they are "plumbed". Reverse the flow in the inlets and the direction of rotation is reversed. I'm sure the motor would need to be rebuilt as it was sitting out in the AK weather (Klawock) for several years.
It shows plenty of wear but seems quite serviceable. I had planned on polishing the exterior and anodizing the drum and levers ect black or gold.

 

[Xsbank]

That's the exact one I've got but mine has a wheel that controls the drum and it has a one-way motor. Mine has also been damaged at some time. I like your brake arrangement. Polishing would be pointless as you will have to do it over and over. If you uses an etching cleaner it will look a lot better and will last longer. If you use an hydroflouric acid-based cleaner, just be damn careful, its incredibly evil stuff if you get it on your skin.

I'll try and post a photo.

 

[Xsbank]

In my own defence it's much cleaner now, that was a photo from the listing!

 

[AusCan]

I've got an Ideal vertical windlass. Seems OK, but no gypsy, so I have to haul the 15 feet of chain by hand.

Wondering if anyone has used a neoprene capstan? I have read they can be used for both rope and chain as they are sufficiently soft to grip the chain.

Another limitation with my setup is that the windlass only has a bow switch. I have been in conditions where it was impossible to keep a foot on the switch to activate the windlass. Even on my hands and knees, I was sliding around on the bow while trying to keeping tension on the rode while depressing the windlass switch. Challenging, to say the least.

 

[Nomad Willy]

AusCan,
You need to find some calmer waters. I've not had that problem and my bow rail doesn't go all the way fwd either. The one switch works fine for me except that I accedentially step on it at times and the capstan motor and gears makes so much noise I just about jump overboard. PNW anchorages are usually protected and calm. Frequently windy but w no fetch.

Xsbank,
As you can see I have a lever instead of a wheel on the stbd side. And my secondary sprocket is much larger so perhaps mine has more power and less speed assuming the motor is the same speed. Yours looks nicer than mine. But I think mine's had a hard life. The weak link of these reel winches (once you get past the commercial look (if you need to )) is the capacity for a long rode. I've got a 435' rode (mostly 5/8ths nylon line) and it won't fit on the drum. I may go w two rodes .. one a 150' all chain (working rode) and the other the 435' nylon for emergencies and storm anchoring. To get the reel winch going for me I'd have to rebuild the motor, buy and install the pump w electric clutch, get the necessary valves and other plumbing and all installed. Are you shopping for mine?

 

[Xsbank]

I have 300' of 3/4" and 100' of 5/16 high test, it seems to fit but it's probably because it's still organized.

I wasn't actually shopping as mine is gnarly but serviceable. I don't like my brake much as it's very stiff, has resisted all efforts to free it up and it's difficult for my wife to operate. I could be tricked into getting a spare if the price was right...

 

[FF]

An SL 555 has a 10-1 gearing with the handle in the hi speed socket and a 40-1 gearing in the low speed socket.

Once a week a tiny bit of manual labor on a lake bound boat does not seem extreme.

With 40 ft of 3/8 chain and a 60lb anchor the work on a few weekends would be less than the usual maint required to keep the white smoke inside an electric unit.

The piece of mind KNOWING it will work , as required , would add to the enjoyment of time away from the dock.

 

[Nomad Willy]

Xsbank,
Don't want to sell it now as much as I did before as I may still use it. The guy wanted $900 for it in AK ... paid $450. Here's another pic that shows the low gear ratio of the chain drive sprockets.
Sounds like we're in the same boat as my winch situation isn't perfect either but actually gets the job done. So many other projects on the boat I'll not employ the reel winch anytime soon.
What is that box like thing below your winch that looks a bit like another winch? Ever posted a pic of your boat?

AusCan,
So your "Ideal" isn't ideal either?

FF,
So we're all supposed to know what an SL 555 is?

 

[N4712]

SL: Simpson Lawrence?

 

[Nomad Willy]

Indeed Oliver I have heard of them. Thanks