While we are on the subject of S - L Windlasses, has anyone (a good) experience with rebuilding the old (30 yr.) electric Seawolf, or at least replaced the main shaft bearings?
Mine was sounding like an old corn cob grinder when I first used it. I tore it down for inspection and found that the main bearings were shot. I cleaned up and greased everything as best I could. As I recall, the other gear bearings seemed OK, just the open main shaft bearings were all rusted out.
I have half-heartedly looked around for replacement bearings for this windlass because in spite of the horrible grinding noise, she works quite well a hauling up 100' of chain. I do not use it much and keep it covered now, so I suspect her state is stable.
He mentions main bearings available from Motion Industries - Keeping Industry in Motion
which when I looked up are quite reasonable at $12.
I had also reviewed the site mentioned in Scotland who bought up all remaining parts, I guess. Homepage | Simpson Lawrence Yacht Parts & Spares
Looks like for now you can get most anything you need, but between the Euro conversion and air freight its pretty pricey. Might be nice to get any "wear" parts now while they are available.
I have put this off for 2 years because I clearly recall the horrible job it was the first time, including breaking off a stud that had to go to the machine shop for removal.
Would really appreciate any words of experience and/or other leads on where to get bearings or misc parts for this windlass.
Simpson - Lawrence Seawolf 520 Windlass refurb - advice
Calling from Scotland, hi!
I'm rebuilding a Simpson Lawrence SL520 anchor windlass.
Your forum (Delta_JimS) made reference to an article...
'Dissecting and repairing the windlass on our Prout catamaran'
I read this article sometime ago and it referred to the type of bearings used. I'm now at the stage of ordering the bearings but can't open the article! Does anyone have a copy of the text or what type of bearings are used.
This appears to be active. The Prout Catamaran link is not active any longer.
I recongize the Von Wentzel name from some electrical links I collected a llong time ago but right now that seems to be a dead end too.
it looks like you should be able to get the bearing from the above folk.
I am a first-time boat owner and am trying to familiarize myself with everything. I could not get the Seawolf 520 Windlass to work. A new friend at the marina helped me to narrow the problem down to a small black part mounted below the windlass. He 'jumped' the connection on the part and the windlass worked momentarily, but went out again. I have since removed the part, disassembled it, and cleaned it. It still doesn't work. I cannot figure out what the part is so that I can figure out how to replace or fix it.
Can anyone help me to figure out what the part is and how I might fix or replace it? Any assistance that you might be able to give would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks in advance!
I have attached a photo of the part. (it is circled in yellow)
I think it may be an auto resetting circuit breaker.
The big red wire goes to the relay post on the far right. Then the smaller orange wire goes from the other relay post to the [circuit breaker??].
Then a smaller red wire leaves the C.B. and goes through the deck to the windlass???? and then the other wire , BLACK, goes to the ground post and big black wire.
That is your main power circuit. The rest of the wiring is the controls.
If I read this correctly the C.B. is sized to protect the windlass motor in case of overload or jamming.
There should also be another NON AUTO RESET C.B. near the batteries to protect that big red wire. It might be a fuse instead of a C.B.
Those Auto reset C.B. are common in the R.V. business. I have seen them in chandleries also.
I was waiting for someone to chime in before I did and made a fool of myself.
At first look, it appeared that this thing was tied across the power from the contactor (relay) to the black wires (-).
After zooming in, I see that little red wire is going through a little hole very close to the black wire terminal. One thing for sure, I would be pulling out my hair with this kind of wiring. Wires are too small and tight to my liking. What is that big bolt on the brown Bakelite rectangle at the top? a ground terminal? Looks like the black wire might be tied to the frame bolt as well.(as opposed to floated and the frame "bonded" to the green wire)
MRD3, any chance we can get more pictures of this situation?
I am a big fan of big cables, but these power cables look too big for just a windlass, do they also go to anything else up there or was someone just being prepared for something in the future?
I have not used this kind of auto-breaker, but does sound like a good idea now that you mention it. They would have to be carefully matched to the load though. A windlass can develop pretty high, short term current spikes under various loading conditions and could tend to open more often than desired - which also tends to weaken them over time.
Here are a few more pics of the wiring. It is not connected to anything else. I also took the part apart and included 2 photos of it dismantled. This is my first boat and I just got it a couple of weeks ago, so I am very green. Please excuse my ignorance.
Those old Simpson Lawrence windlasses [windlai ???] actually did not draw a lot of current. Small motor with lots of gearing.
I had one on my previous boat.
The large supply wire would have kept Vdrop to a minimum. Once the wire is close to the actual load, windlass, the wire from that point on need only be heavy enough to supply the motor its rated current. Those last tail ends leading to the actual motor are usuually only a very few feet. They will produce some Vdrop of their own but because of the short length it will be minimal.
The large post on the brown bakelite looking pad is simply the negative terminal connection point.
MRD3 if you replace that breaker there are units available that have bolt on connections and use ring terminals rather than spade connectors. That would be a much better arrangement. Less prone to corrosion, loosening with the resultant loss of power and heat buildup at the C.B. connections which can produce nuisance tripping of the C.B.