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Old 05-21-2012, 07:49 PM   #41
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Alarm

Downloaded an app last winter when staying at SunSet cove in Stuart and thought it was cool untill it went off a few times just by loosing the siginal and regaining it before correcting the position. Sounded off i was running topside spotlighting all the boats around us at 3AM to find we were right were we started. Deleted it and said oh well.
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Old 10-21-2012, 08:52 PM   #42
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Great thread!
I set two anchors on one occasion in 4 years of living aboard a heavy 50' sailboat. My primary was a a Spade and the secondary a Delta. The Spade sets easily and has only dragged once. This was in soft mud. I set the Spade, it started to drag, I rest it then in increasing wind set the Delta in 40+ kts of wind and both anchors dragged equally back to the fulcrum in a sad twisted mess. All ended well but it did not inspire me on the increased holding strength of a pattern of two anchors. In my experience the load was either 100% on one anchor or 100% on the other. That was the first and last time that I deployed (or felt that I had to deploy) the Delta in 4 years and close to 20,000NM . I swear by the Spade and respect anyone who swears by their choice, regardless of brand. In order to go to bed at anchor you first have to believe that your anchor will hold you!
I use Drag Queen on my new ride, a 4788 Bayliner, and so far am impressed. It runs (with a 12v cord) through the night and keeps GPS readings while below decks. Nice tool!
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Old 10-22-2012, 02:17 PM   #43
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I am a newbe when it comes to anchoring, a confirmed Dock Queen and undecided if one large anchor, 90+ lbs or two medium size anchor, 60 lbs each would work best. Also if the two medium anchors, 60 lbs where two different types, fluke and plough. Being the type of anchor, plough/fluke are recommended for different bottoms. Fluke is recommend for soft sandy weed free bottoms and the plough hard rock/stone and weed bottom.

As most of you know we have a 65# Forjord, primary, 55# QCR, and a 60# Danforth, secondary, as that is all my wife can lift lift at one time. So I would think having two medium anchors would be better than having one heavier primary, and the type of bottom would decided weather the Danforth or QCR secondary?

Also would drop the secondary anchor first, QCR or danforth connect to the primary, forjord and drop the primary with the required scope, resulting in a straight pull on both anchors. It would seem having two anchor spread apart and with different setting/holding would tend to foul if the wind/tide changed direction?




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Old 10-22-2012, 02:50 PM   #44
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While there can be instances where setting more than one anchor can be beneficial (I'm not talking about a stern anchor here but two from the bow) the hassle of setting and recovering them would make one large anchor far more preferable to my way of thinking in most situations. If one has a good and properly sized and powered windlass the anchor size should not make any difference.

I don't believe in anchors that are streamlined to move in the direction of pull (CQR, Delta) and I believe the Bruce is a design that only works reliably in truly large sizes. But Forfjords, Danforths/Fortresses, the rollbar anchors--- anchors with flukes designed to resist the direction of pull rather than slide toward it--- are all anchors I would trust in "oversized" sizes with all-chain rode.
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Old 10-22-2012, 03:21 PM   #45
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Phil-if your wife can lift all three of those at one time, I hope you are very nice to her!
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Old 10-22-2012, 04:09 PM   #46
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Phil: While you're at the dock try dropping and retrieving 2 anchors as you have outlined. They don't have to be set. I think you'll find it's a major PIA. I'd go extra large on the anchor and pick one. Trying to switch anchors based on bottom conditions would be difficult I'd think.
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Old 10-22-2012, 04:32 PM   #47
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Why not two anchors on one rode?

If wind is expected I will use ten feet of chain to attach the second anchor to the first. The second anchor is light enough so I can pull it in after the main is retrived via the windlass.

I will have a good scope so the first anchor is not pulled free by the drag of the second.
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Old 10-22-2012, 08:24 PM   #48
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Why not two anchors on one rode?

If wind is expected I will use ten feet of chain to attach the second anchor to the first. The second anchor is light enough so I can pull it in after the main is retrived via the windlass.

I will have a good scope so the first anchor is not pulled free by the drag of the second.
That can work, but only if the lead anchor has an attachment point designed to drag another anchor without compromising the setting of the primary. There must be others, but the Rocna is the only one I know of that has made a provision for tandem anchoring. If you can find a Rocna made before the company started cheapening the metallurgy you might have an option. There are problems with this strategy, though. If the primary drags, then the secondary anchor is running through ground already whipped up by the dragging primary. How much additional grab you get at that point is an open question. I go along with the "pick a huge anchor, couple it with robust rode and fuggetaboutit" school of anchoring strategy.
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Old 10-22-2012, 08:31 PM   #49
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Carl--- While this has become old news now have you paid any attention to the evolution of Rocna's metallurgy issues? I haven't since ours was made years before the advent of the China "problem," but I see more and more of them in our marina and on boats in the Seaview yard and they are all the current models made today as evidenced by the different shank label and the cast-in lettering at the top of the fluke. The last I heard the company was sold to Canadian Metals although manufacturing is still being done in China. Do you know if the anchors are now being made of what they're supposed to be made of?
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Old 10-22-2012, 11:44 PM   #50
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Carl--- While this has become old news now have you paid any attention to the evolution of Rocna's metallurgy issues? I haven't since ours was made years before the advent of the China "problem," but I see more and more of them in our marina and on boats in the Seaview yard and they are all the current models made today as evidenced by the different shank label and the cast-in lettering at the top of the fluke. The last I heard the company was sold to Canadian Metals although manufacturing is still being done in China. Do you know if the anchors are now being made of what they're supposed to be made of?
No, they are not made of the material that Peter Smith said was essential for them to be made of. Whether the grade of steel they are using is adequate or not, I guess depends on your definition of adequate. I suspect that Smith's assertions that Bisalloy 80 was critical may have been more marketing bluster than engineering fact, although it is still true that their main competitor, Manson, still does use the Bisalloy 80 for its shanks and in my mind represents the clearly superior option. By lying to people about their manufacturing, Smith et al destroyed a good company, which is being salvaged by another company that bought them for a pittance after the effects of the Smith's deceits took their toll. It seems to me that Rocna is being positioned more closely in the marketplace to what it is - a good, if not original design made out of less than optimum materials given the design targeted at the less than discriminating and knowledgeable purchaser.
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Old 10-23-2012, 11:13 AM   #51
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I would rather run the ICW at night than to set two anchors. Other than a stern anchor, I only did it one time. It was a pure PIA. With 8' tides and narrow channels, the current runs very fast in Georgia. Anchored one night in a narrow creek of the ICW. I thought no problem here, the Bahamian moor would work. So, I went in, set an anchor, ran out the slack, moved down current, and set the second anchor. Then the fun began. Letting out slack on one anchor and taking up rode on another is not as easy as it sounded. Remember, while taking up rode on one, the other had to be taut as rode was let out. Got that done. It did work. As the tide changed it did swing around without fouling the props.

Morning time. Current still running. Now, the real fun begins. Let out slack on one while keeping it taut. Take in rode on the other. So far so good. Break the first anchor out with about a 100 lbs of grey clay stuck tightly. Can't take time to get it off. Now, get the other rode that is twice as long in. Run back to the helm, try to crab away from the bank as the windless takes in rode. When the boat is over the first anchor, it breaks out with about 100 lbs of grey clay on it. Great, now there are two anchors dangling from the bow. Try to get boat out to an area with enough room to tend the anchors, and not go around. Finally took the hose and boat hook to push and wash the clay off. There was a huge mess on the front deck of mud, and a pile of rode that had to be straightened and put away.

I guess, I am just not very coordinated, but it will be a rare occurrence if I do that again. Diagrams in books look simple. I may not be that simple.
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Old 10-23-2012, 08:26 PM   #52
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wow!!!!...no big deal as there are several ways to use 2 anchors to hold position...you just have to understand WHY you might want 2 anchors and KNOW what conditions may occur to affect the setting of 2 anchors.
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Old 10-24-2012, 08:03 AM   #53
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I use two bow anchors on occasion. I think it is easy to set two and retrieve two. At least it has always been easy for me.
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Old 10-24-2012, 08:40 AM   #54
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We use a Bahamian moore probably 90% of the time.

Certainly under 3 min to deploy and in the crowded NE , about the only way to be near a mooring field.
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Old 10-24-2012, 08:50 AM   #55
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I just found this. It's good to know that I am not alone. Anchoring in narrow channels with the boat turning 360 degrees in a fast reversing current is not for the faint of heart. Just found this.

http://www.windsongsail.com/2/storie...egall_0804.pdf
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Old 11-09-2012, 10:24 AM   #56
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Have you ever had a reason to set a second anchor and if so what was the reason and how did you set the anchor?

Setting a second anchor from a dinghy is a real chore especially when it's windy and probably those are the conditions that most folks would use a second anchor.*

And having set the second anchor, how do you retrieve it?
Hi Mate. My 2c on this is deploy the rear anchor first, wait, for it to grab, when the boat has finished swinging around, lower the bow anchor and that's it. I've done it this many times with great success. I've often watched others in amusement and amazement do it bow first then struggle with the stern.

To retrieve the rear anchor, I lift the bow, reverse over the rear anchor (avoid hitting the chain with the prop) then lift her up and it's happy days.

Each to their own but give it a go and work out what's best for you.

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Old 11-09-2012, 10:27 AM   #57
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*You can also use a baby monitor set up at the helm to listen to your GPS/bridge alarms.
Or one could just invest in a decent "certified" anchor :-D

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Old 11-09-2012, 10:47 PM   #58
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What do you use for your main anchor, and rode Hendo..?
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Old 11-09-2012, 11:45 PM   #59
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I would rather run the ICW at night than to set two anchors.
AMEN. I carry a heavy CQR which is good for alternating tides/currents. I set 5 or 7 to 1 scope with all chain rode and sleep like a baby. We had 8-1 in Cumberland Sound during a N'oreaster and never slipped. I carry a broken down Fortress in case I need to set a second anchor, but I've never needed it, since I trust my CQR and chain.

My advice is: get a primary anchor that is twice as heavy as you need. And then don't worry.
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Old 11-10-2012, 01:16 AM   #60
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Software isn't going to save your bacon. If you need more than one (except for close quarters) you might think about revisiting your strategy? Do it once - do it right.
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