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Old 04-27-2011, 09:13 AM   #21
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RE: Setting anchor with the windlass question

HaHa*** ...guess I set everybody off w the 1/2 throttle in reverse! When I said that I thought "maybe that's a little extreme" but did'nt change it. For my boat w 40hp that would only be about 10hp in reverse. Carl's idea has some merritt in a way. Anchors set best very slowly but I want to know I'm hooked up solid. I stand on the bow lifting the rode (line) w my hand and note when it hits bottom. Then I don't pay out more line until Chris starts backing down so I won't pile the rode up around the anchor. When she starts to make way aft I pay out line as we go thus laying it out on the seabed. When enough scope is out I make fast to my big cleat slow my sternway to a crawl. In and out of gear. Then when I pull hard upwards on the rode between the bow roller and the cleat and feel the line as quite tight I give Chris the "up throttle" sign and she backs down. Maybe it's only 1200rpm??? I give her the "stop" sign when It seems very positively set. I guess I actually don't know what rpm it is since I'm on the bow. She never looks at the tach as she's watching my hand for the signals. We now have those anchor talkers so we won't need the hand signals. And we have the winch. And I got a 15" polished SS heavy duty cleat and 2 others for the mooring lines. I was going to get Galvies but decided on the polished SS so the line will go smoothly around the cleat using it as a brake lowering the rode down. As far as the sea cock goes it must have been another bad choice of words as I never close the seacock at anchor. Sorry.

*
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Old 04-27-2011, 09:43 AM   #22
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RE: Setting anchor with the windlass question

Quote:
Old Stone wrote:Dave, if I promise to be on good behaviour, can I have your boat. She is just plain beautiful. I will keep her washed nicely!
*Thank you for the kind words Carl, but sadly I have to say no! *

*
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Old 04-27-2011, 10:37 AM   #23
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RE: Setting anchor with the windlass question

I lightly set the anchor with windless, connect the bridle and back down to set.* Most windless can take a lot more than most think as they are rated for max pull depending on size up to 3000 lbs.* I think the Eagle is 2000 lbs.* So why cant a windless take some reasonable strain/pull?* **
*

When at dock or anchor all the below water through hulls are closed.* I also start the engine in the engine room, and visually double check things before starting.* The main battery switch are off also so the engines can not be started.
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Old 04-27-2011, 01:19 PM   #24
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RE: Setting anchor with the windlass question

Seacocks are not meant to be closed. Ever!
When I had a survey done (Insurance Co request) a few years ago the surveyor commented that he could work the seacocks on my boat. this was unusual, as most boats he surveyed, the seacocks hadn't moved since the last surveyor tried them. Mine worked only because I knew I would be getting a survey, so I worked them to be sure he would be able to.
I would never close a seacock, unless I knew for certain that I wasn't going to be using the engine. If my boat is in the water, chances are, I will use the engine, therefore, keep the seacock open.
When I repowered, in 2000, to test run the new engines, on the hard, the mechanic put a garden hose into the strainer, with the seacock closed, and used that water supply for cooling water. That was the last time, except for the surveyor mentioned above, that the seacocks were closed.
I need a survey again this year, and I already know my seacocks will move.
I can close them if I have a reason to.
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Old 04-27-2011, 01:35 PM   #25
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RE: Setting anchor with the windlass question

I do close the seacocks in the boat when I will be away... it's just extra insurance. I have a 4" round piece of cardboard with a slot it it that says in red letters "sea cocks closed".. and I leave the key in the ignition with the key through the slot. In the engine room I had signs and arrows to point to the sea cocks, and at the engine sea cock I would leave the aluminum floor plate open for fast access.*

Regarding anchor setting.. when we were ragbaggers in So Cal in the 80/90s I got used to anchoring in very long narrow coves at the channel islands.. using a stern hook also. I would drop into the water and check out my neighbors anchors to insure that they had set the hook well. More often than not I would find a unset anchor and the boat holding because of the pile of chain.. I used up a lot of air dragging the anchors out in front of the boat and setting the anchors.

I never told the unsuspecting captains for fear of them blaming me if there was a issue.. but after I started this I also never again had a boat slide over in the middle of the night..

HOLLYWOOD
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Old 04-27-2011, 06:34 PM   #26
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RE: Setting anchor with the windlass question

I have two through hulls, one for the waste pump out and one for the genset.* When I close the genset valve, I switch off the genset with a kill switch I wired in the engine room.* I have attempted to start the genset, oh, about 400 times with the through hull closed, but because the switch is off, nothing happens and I am reminded to open the valve, then start.* The CAT is dry stack, but if it was wet, I would kill it at the engine as well just to avoid the drama.
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Old 04-28-2011, 03:40 AM   #27
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RE: Setting anchor with the windlass question

Genuine Marine Seacocks (not box store "stainless" ball valves) can readily be cable operated.

An extra shift tower will do a pair.
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Old 04-28-2011, 08:33 AM   #28
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RE: Setting anchor with the windlass question

And for those really hard to get to valves, a motorized valve is the shizz.* I used to buy just the actuator which could be bolted onto any ball valve to open and close it automatically.* I see no reason why it wouldn't work on a 1/4 turn through hull as long as the valve has a threaded stud attached to the ball.*

I use a couple of motorized valves on Delfin's hydronic system to prevent unwanted convection circulation and have used hundreds of them in industrial heating applications, where they last for a very long time, in fact, I don't remember one ever failing.
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Old 04-28-2011, 09:03 AM   #29
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RE: Setting anchor with the windlass question

Carl;

Of course you are correct. I was using a little hyperbole, but in the waters I live in, there is no freeze danger, so winterizing consists of making sure the HW tank in the ER is left on, so the ER temp remains slightly above ambient. Regular inspection of the hoses will detect any problems long before they get serious enough to change hoses. That will be the next time (except for exercise) my seacocks get closed.
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Old 04-28-2011, 10:18 AM   #30
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RE: Setting anchor with the windlass question

Quote:
Delfin wrote:
And for those really hard to get to valves, a motorized valve is the shizz.* I used to buy just the actuator which could be bolted onto any ball valve to open and close it automatically.* I see no reason why it wouldn't work on a 1/4 turn through hull as long as the valve has a threaded stud attached to the ball.*

I use a couple of motorized valves on Delfin's hydronic system to prevent unwanted convection circulation and have used hundreds of them in industrial heating applications, where they last for a very long time, in fact, I don't remember one ever failing.
*Would that work for Racor filter switching on the run? We're installing a parallel filter for that one time when we get either water or crap in the filter and need to switch on the fly. Our filter(s) are interesting to get to, and of course I expect that the switching need will only occur in rough seas.

*
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Old 04-28-2011, 12:07 PM   #31
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RE: Setting anchor with the windlass question

Cold weather or no, I close six valves every time I leave the boat unattended (like when I'm not using it).* I'm told most boats sink while at the dock and I don't want to add to that statistic.* My hoses might be OK, but what if*a strainer decides to let go?
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Old 04-28-2011, 03:50 PM   #32
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RE: Setting anchor with the windlass question

Quote:
Conrad wrote:
*Would that work for Racor filter switching on the run? We're installing a parallel filter for that one time when we get either water or crap in the filter and need to switch on the fly. Our filter(s) are interesting to get to, and of course I expect that the switching need will only occur in rough seas.

*

*I've seen them in the boating pub ads, but couldn't find one quickly via Google. They exist. Cost?

*
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Old 04-28-2011, 05:37 PM   #33
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RE: Setting anchor with the windlass question

Quote:
Conrad wrote:*Would that work for Racor filter switching on the run? We're installing a parallel filter for that one time when we get either water or crap in the filter and need to switch on the fly. Our filter(s) are interesting to get to, and of course I expect that the switching need will only occur in rough seas.
*
*Yes, I think so, but one issue is the seal material.* You also want to have what I think is called a "double acting" valve, meaning when you send the voltage to the motor, it de-energizes when it reachs an adjustable stop.* Sending current again moves the motor in the opposite direction, then de-energizes again.* In this way you don't have the motor constantly powered, just when it needs to move open or close.* This one is typical, but you'd want to call and make sure it is double acting.* The seal is PFTE, which is compatible with diesel, although I have seen posts elsewhere saying PFTE will deteriorate in diesel.* Maybe someone else on the site knows the answer on that one.

*

http://assuredautomation.com/101/buy_101.php

*
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Old 04-28-2011, 08:24 PM   #34
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RE: Setting anchor with the windlass question

A bit off the thread(appologies) to what depth can large ships(ore carriers etc) set anchors to off shore?
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Old 04-28-2011, 11:03 PM   #35
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RE: Setting anchor with the windlass question

I was doing a trip home from the Persian Gulf some time back (110,000 Tonne crude tanker) and we anchored in a bit over 100 mts somewhere near Ras Al-Khaimah.
To get the anchor up I had to put on both hydraulic units and screw down the relief valves.
Even then we played drag and drop until we could lift the anchor straight up.

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