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Old 06-08-2018, 05:27 PM   #1
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Setting anchor

Do people usually set the anchor while the force of the rode is still on the windlass? Or do you first tie the rode to a cleat before setting by hitting reverse?

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Old 06-08-2018, 05:56 PM   #2
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Or do you simply attach the snubber and let the weight of the boat set it.
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Old 06-08-2018, 06:23 PM   #3
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I for one let out my anchor line, set the snubber and then back down to make sure the anchor is set. I sleep better that way.
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Old 06-08-2018, 06:33 PM   #4
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I lower the anchor and back away slowly paying out rode. At the appropriate scope I stop paying out and gently set the hook. Then I attach the bridal and put the load on the cleats and back down pretty hard to set the anchor. I aim for 800 rpm in reverse for aa protected place and set it to 1,000 if it is more exposed.. I do not put any lod on the winch when setting the anchor.
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Old 06-08-2018, 06:38 PM   #5
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We lower the scope we want, set the windlass pawl, then back down at a little over idle until the anchor line is taut and the boat is stopped. We either do the snubber then or later before we bunk down depending on time of anchoring.

I would have thought that those pf you who put on the snubber before backing down, could be giving yourself a lot more work if, when backing down, you realized your anchor was not holding, and you needed to lift and reset.
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Old 06-08-2018, 06:57 PM   #6
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You are right that if you set the snubber or bridle and find that the anchor won't set, there is some work in retrieving the snubber before letting out more scope, or retrieving the anchor and moving to a different spot.. But there are two important points. First, you can bend the windlass axle if you back hard on the rode using the windlass as the dead end. Two, you are out cruising: you're not at the office. IMHO, an extra minute or three retrieving your anchor, is just not a big deal.
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Old 06-08-2018, 07:38 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by menzies View Post

I would have thought that those pf you who put on the snubber before backing down, could be giving yourself a lot more work if, when backing down, you realized your anchor was not holding, and you needed to lift and reset.
What extra work?
For us its as simple as hit switch, chain comes in, load is off snubber and it falls off.


Never had to do it though as our anchor has never had an issue biting in instantly in mud, sand, weed and whatever else has been down there.
The one time we backed down, just in gear, it grabbed violently and we almost fell over so abrupt was the stop.
We no longer back down.
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Old 06-08-2018, 08:15 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MichaelB1969 View Post
Do people usually set the anchor while the force of the rode is still on the windlass? Or do you first tie the rode to a cleat before setting by hitting reverse?

Thanks,
Mike


I use a short snubber to set the anchor.
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Old 06-09-2018, 05:18 AM   #9
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We use a short scope 4-1 to set anchor , then tie on snubber and pay out the rest of the scope.
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Old 06-09-2018, 05:26 AM   #10
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We use a chain stopper then add the snubber as needed. The stopper also keeps the load off the windlass when hauling the anchor in big seas.
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Old 06-09-2018, 05:33 AM   #11
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My methods vary depending on weather and sea conditions, overnight or not, leaving the boat or not, etc.

In calm conditions when stopping for a quick fish or for lunch in a shallow bay, I just drop the anchor and lay out a bit of chain. Thats it. No settting, no snubber, no tension on chain.
In rougher water or overnight more diligence is required.
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Old 06-09-2018, 08:45 AM   #12
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Like many others, I don’t pull against the windlass with the motors, I use the snubber or bridal after drifting back has given the initial set. I also don’t retrieve the anchor hard into the bow roller. I leave it just a tiny bit loose and attach a safety lanyard. My thinking, correct or not, is to avoid straining and loosening the bow roller hardware.
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Old 06-14-2018, 09:37 AM   #13
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We avoid putting load on the windlass. Most windlass manufacturers advise to avoid loading the windlass. We drop, pay out our scope, set the snubbers, fairly short, then I reverse to set the anchor. Once the anchor is set, I reverse up to 1,000 rpm (I idle at 800), then back to idle for 1-2 seconds, then neutral. The boat springs forward a bit on the snubbers. I bump into reverse for a second to stop the recoil. If the wind is dead, I bump back a second time to pay out any slack taken up from the recoil. We then pay out the final amount of snubber and chain slack and crack a beer.
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Old 06-14-2018, 11:59 AM   #14
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With a mixed rode I use the stretch of the nylon to observe the set of the anchor and then snub off on the Sampson post after it is set. When the vessel rebounds off of the set and spins 180 degrees I am confident of my set. I usually set using the forward momentum of my vessel planning wind and current direction so that I will end up where wind and current will leave the vessel after the set.

With the mixed rode I am not concerned about the load on the windlass, the nylon takes up the major percentage of the load when I set.
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Old 06-14-2018, 12:29 PM   #15
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To a cleat.
A big dedicated two post cleat that never gets used for anything else.
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Old 06-14-2018, 12:41 PM   #16
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I have a Rocna (anchors have different setting requirements) and just drop it overboard with 7:1 scope, attach the snubber, shut off the engine, and grab a beer. My boats sails at anchor and sets the hook in the process.

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Old 06-14-2018, 01:05 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by O C Diver View Post
I have a Rocna (anchors have different setting requirements) and just drop it overboard with 7:1 scope, attach the snubber, shut off the engine, and grab a beer. My boats sails at anchor and sets the hook in the process.

Ted

I've done that at times, but often there are some restrictions in where I am anchored. It can be a rock, other boats, needing to be at a specific spot for a stern tie etc... so I usually really try to have the anchor set right where I need it to be. Once I get an initial set, then it soaks in nicely.


One TF member mentioned a year ago or so that they drop the hook and get an initial set, than come back later after it has soaked and set it hard. I've done that on occasion and it works pretty well.
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Old 06-14-2018, 04:48 PM   #18
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We also use a short snubber to take the load and then set the anchor.
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Old 06-14-2018, 06:08 PM   #19
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Sorta what Ted does....drop the anchor (Rocna) and 100' or more chain, lock the chain with the chock, let the boat sail and watch for the rode to go taught and stop the movement of the boat. Then connect the snubber and drop it it.
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Old 06-14-2018, 07:47 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by O C Diver View Post
I have a Rocna (anchors have different setting requirements) and just drop it overboard with 7:1 scope, attach the snubber, shut off the engine, and grab a beer. My boats sails at anchor and sets the hook in the process.

Ted
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Sorta what Ted does....drop the anchor (Rocna) and 100' or more chain, lock the chain with the chock, let the boat sail and watch for the rode to go taught and stop the movement of the boat. Then connect the snubber and drop it it.
Same here. The Super-Sarca seems to set best left to its own devices. Beauty of not reversing is not only no strain on winch, but no snubber needed either, and only once clearly set, one motion to let out the full desired amount of chain, then set snubber once only.
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