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Old 11-16-2012, 06:56 AM   #21
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Would a thimble go through the Lofrans wildcat? If not, the splice. Other ideas guys?

Probably no chance , but a rope to chain splice is not at all hard to do.

The simplest is to keep the thimble if it will pass thru the chain stopper , then simply switch from the gypsy to the drum portion .

For simple lifting only one turn of line on the drum is usually sufficient and does not foul easily.
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Old 11-20-2012, 10:18 PM   #22
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I carry 600' of rode and 100' of chain on the end of that.

We anchor in 75-150' of water regularly, just due to our local topography.

I have found that unless the wind really picks up 3:1 scope works just fine. We have very rarely drug anchor at 3:1

One of my favorite things to do is to drop all 700' in a fishing hole of 300' or so. This isn't a night time anchorage, but it sure makes for a nice day fishing, even with strong currents. Very peaceful not having to keep re-starting a drift while fishing.
I think it is worth mentioning that 3:1 is good for deep (77-150') whereas most of us who regularly anchor in 10-35' use 7-1 as the standard. The dynamics of anchoring in deep water are much different and should be treated as such. In East Coast sand, I can anchor using 7:1 with no chain using a Danforth, as long as the tide doesn't change. Somewhere else? Who knows?
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Old 11-20-2012, 10:39 PM   #23
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Would a thimble go through the Lofrans wildcat? If not, the splice. Other ideas guys?
We have a Lofrans Tigres and I don't see how a thimble or even a splice would go through the wildcat.

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Old 11-20-2012, 10:40 PM   #24
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That appeals to me a lot. The anchoring situation physically or geographically may often or even most of the time determine the scope to use.

Marin I agree. Haven't seen that pic for a while. What a beautiful pice of machinery.
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Old 11-20-2012, 11:30 PM   #25
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I agree the Lofrans Tigres is beautiful with a 20 kilo Bruce, 350' of G4 chain and chain counter. We have never had a problem, the package just works.
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Old 11-21-2012, 02:04 AM   #26
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240 ft 5/8 8 plait Brait, 120 ft 5/16 G4 HT Chain, 15kg Bruce clone on a self-launching SS Roller powered by a Lewmar Pro Series 1000 with a rope/chain gypsy and dual lower-helm-wired and wireless remotes. Not the costliest system available, but it sure works well for us.

We bought the boat with a rope-only Powerwinch and spent way too much time hoisting chain and anchor by hand. This was the single best labor-saving upgrade we made on the boat.

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Old 11-21-2012, 02:31 AM   #27
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That's a good arrangement, Al, but why did I have to pull on the rope rode down in the chain locker with the help of your reversing the windlass to clear the jams? Why not an all-chain rode?

Like your anchor! Reminds me of mine.
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Old 11-21-2012, 06:59 AM   #28
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The photos posted do not show a chain stopper.

Does that mean , against the Mfg advice the windlass is used to hold the anchoring loads?
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Old 11-21-2012, 08:10 AM   #29
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I can't imagine anchoring in 100+' of water! Anything over than 10' has me looking around for a better spot.

(just the wear and tear on the windlass alone would make me wonder about 100' or how far do you have to drive forward to break it loose) WOW!
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Old 11-21-2012, 08:33 AM   #30
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I carry 200 ft of chain and never needed more. Actually 99% of the time I use less than 100 ft.
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Old 11-21-2012, 09:33 AM   #31
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FlyWright,

How do you like that winch? Is it very noisy? fast - slow? What controls does it have?

How many times do you anchor in a year? I think you're in the SF Bay area? Probably anchoring in mud all the time. Have you ever dragged?

Do you have a wash down pump - hose - valve?

Hope you don't mind all the questions.

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Old 11-21-2012, 11:09 AM   #32
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Took me several years to understand why on the East coast anchor seem to be a lot more common than the PNW. The big difference is the dept of the water. Shoot in the PNW we have tide swings larger than the depth. We are luck to anchor in under 30 ft, plus 10 ft for the bow and 10 more ft for tide. Shoot that is more rode length than the total of most East coast boats. Shoot if I could anchor in 10 ft of water I would be
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Old 11-21-2012, 11:54 AM   #33
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Al, I apologize for my faulty memory. It was chain I was pulling in the locker, not rope.
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Old 11-21-2012, 12:20 PM   #34
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Took me several years to understand why on the East coast anchor seem to be a lot more common than the PNW. The big difference is the dept of the water. Shoot in the PNW we have tide swings larger than the depth. We are luck to anchor in under 30 ft, plus 10 ft for the bow and 10 more ft for tide. Shoot that is more rode length than the total of most East coast boats. Shoot if I could anchor in 10 ft of water I would be
Phil,
Those numbers you talked about lead me to suspect that MOST BOATERS probably actually anchor at about 3-1 on the west coast even when they say they employ 5-1. Don't want to sound like a fool of course. Same w authors of boating books. What if Chapman said 3-1 was an anchoring standard? They'd come after him w pitch forks as everyone knows that 5-1 is what to do as all the other books say so. For the record though I'll never say more holding power can be obtained at 3-1 than longer scopes.

So I'll bet 100% chain and 150 to 200' should be OK for the east coast where a 350' combination is best in the west.
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Old 11-21-2012, 12:59 PM   #35
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Mark, you were right...it was rope I believe. The chain doesn't have a problem passing into the locker. Occasionally, the rope forms a tight coil in the 4 inch diameter SS cylindrical channel I devised to carry the rode through the teak pulpit base into the anchor locker. I should have designed the tube in a conical shape like an upside down funnel to prevent the line from binding. Someday in retirement I plan to remedy this. But in the meantime, I have great crew like you and the Admiral who come to the rescue with a short tug. Besides, it looked like you needed something to do while I was pushing buttons and working the shifters. ;-)

FF, I have a cleat forward of the windlass to tie off the rode at anchor. If I'm anchored with chain only, I have an anchor snubber that I attach which absorbs the shock and secures to the same cleat or the sampson post aft of the windlass. (see pic below)

MB,

How do you like that winch? Is it very noisy? fast - slow? What controls does it have?

I like the winch, but readily admit that my winch experience is limited to a few windlasses. As such, I'm not sure if it's considered loud or not. I always have the engines running when operating the windlass and can hear it over the idling engines.

The typical line speed is listed at 88 ft per minute with a max of 105 fpm. It's plenty fast for me. I control it with the Lewmar provided hard-wired switch and circuit breaker at the lower helm and a Lewmar wireless remote (link above) which allows me to control it from the flybridge or the bow. I do not have foot controls, but find no need for them with my current controls.

How many times do you anchor in a year?

Since I fish alot, I'm often anchoring and reanchoring several times a day. I'm guessing that I drop anchor 75-100 times per year. I'm hoping to increase that significantly in retirement.

I think you're in the SF Bay area? Probably anchoring in mud all the time. Have you ever dragged?


I normally anchor in the California Delta, but have anchored in the Bay as well. The bottom is mostly mud. In these parts, if you anchor in water 15 feet deep or more, you almost guaranteed no weeds. I have anchored overnight in a 30-35 kt blow and have never dragged anchor. It did keep me up all night on anchor watch, but a 7:1 scope held great. When in the bay for Fleet Week with Mark (crowded conditions), we anchored in 50 ft of water with only 180-200 ft of rode, if memory serves me correctly. The winds might have been 10-15 and waves to 3 ft with no problems.

Do you have a wash down pump - hose - valve?


Yes, when I installed the windlass, I also installed a fwd washdown hose in a recessed canister on the deck like this.

The electric RW washdown pump feeds both the fwd and aft WD lines. The aft line has a valve near the FB ladder, the fwd line does not. I have a lighted RW washdown pump switch at the helm to control the pump. I installed a lighted switch which prominently illuminates when the the switch is ON to remind me to turn it off when I'm done using it. It has done its job several times.

If I were to do it all again, what would I change? I'd upgrade to a 20KG Bruce anchor. (dwhatty, if you're looking for something to buy me for Christmas...) It works well in the environment in which we operate and is a highly recommended anchor in this area by local experts.
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Old 11-21-2012, 01:21 PM   #36
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Why not an all-chain rode?
I wasn't sure how much weight my bow could accommodate. I wanted the shock absorption of a combo rode and felt all chain would be overkill for the bay/delta.

I started out with 270 ft of line and 30 ft of chain, but that was inadequate. I added 90 ft of chain and lost the last 30 ft of line to an 'anchoring mishap' which required a Vessel Assist dive to retrieve my anchor line from the grasp of my props. If I had all chain, that probably never would have happened.

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Old 11-21-2012, 02:08 PM   #37
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The photos posted do not show a chain stopper.

Does that mean , against the Mfg advice the windlass is used to hold the anchoring loads?
The line going to the cleat on our windlass is our chain stopper. There is a chain hook on the other end.
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Old 11-21-2012, 08:13 PM   #38
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Fred,
Skinny Dippin' uses the same windlass. I like it ok, but just ok. I wouldn't trust it to hold without a bridle. Moreover, it biggest fault I have with it is the case design. The case is two hemispherical halves with a poorly machined surface and too few fasteners holding the halves together. My seal failed and I had to almost completely rebuild the guts. Granted, it wasn't that hard to do and now I know everything I need to know about our windlass. Bess has now made a Sunbrella cover for it and I home I never have to do it again.

Overall, however, it's a pretty good unit. If I had the money, I would replace it with a unit with dual drums.

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Old 11-21-2012, 08:35 PM   #39
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The photos posted do not show a chain stopper.

Does that mean , against the Mfg advice the windlass is used to hold the anchoring loads?
We use a anchor bridle to the forward cleats on either side of the bow or to the sampson post behind the Lofrans windlass. No load is on the windlass unless it is working.
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Old 11-21-2012, 08:58 PM   #40
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I wasn't sure how much weight my bow could accommodate. I wanted the shock absorption of a combo rode and felt all chain would be overkill for the bay/delta.

I started out with 270 ft of line and 30 ft of chain, but that was inadequate. I added 90 ft of chain ...
My Coot came with 200 feet of 3/8-inch chain and a 15 kilogram claw. It would be nice to have a longer rode and heavier anchor, but the present equipment has been fully satisfactory for the San Francisco estuary.

The boat can carry more chain and a heavier anchor without upsetting balance.

Unlike Al, I have to give the anchor some slack and then push the anchor forward so it will drop.

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