Replace a Suncor anchor with... what?

[wkearney99]

I teed the forward head intake thru hull for my washdown. Depending on what intakes you have, you might be able to share an existing one.

The only 'nearby' through-hull is the outflow for the macerator. And I just really don't want to introduce a setup that might present any chance of co-mingling from there (even though we don't actually use the macerator). I suppose I could just remove the macerator connection and re-purpose the through-hull. But while we don't use it now, since we're not usually out in waters that allow for dumping, I'm hesitant to just remove an otherwise useful feature. Otherwise everything else is back in the engine room. That and tee-ing off an existing connection presents potential problems with pump suction causing backflow from what's already using that intake. I wouldn't want the added hassles of anything that might cause a restriction on the raw intake turn the pump pressure against the seals or plumbing of anything else.

My pulpit does the same thing, so I try to keep the spray aimed below the pulpit to knock most of the junk into the water. When some dirt starts to get on the pulpit and looks like it may run back onto the deck, I pause the windlass for a moment and spray off the pulpit to push the junk off the forward end of it. Doesn't always keep the deck 100% clean, but it greatly reduces the junk ending up on deck.

Same. If it was just gunk that was channeling back inside the pulpit I could probably just lay a towel or something down there to catch it before it ran back. But there's also a fair bit of 'cast off' from the chain that splatters the adjacent deck. For us, the key to water management is not bothering to clean the deck until the anchor is aboard. I typically just let it all get messy and save the water to rinse the gunk off the foredeck, with a back/forth sweeping pattern. Then back along the gunwales. Which have the added annoyance of not having an overboard drain until all the way back at the cockpit.

I have a hose flow meter. I should probably connect it and measure just how much water gets used for this.

 

[mvweebles]

i have a raw water deck washdown pump tee-d off one of my large Groco strainers. I have one of these Aquor flush-deck fittings at my anchor and my cockpit. Definitely restricts flow a bit, but works pretty well.

https://newfoundmetals.com/product/deck-washdown/

Peter

 

[rslifkin]

The only 'nearby' through-hull is the outflow for the macerator. And I just really don't want to introduce a setup that might present any chance of co-mingling from there (even though we don't actually use the macerator). I suppose I could just remove the macerator connection and re-purpose the through-hull. But while we don't use it now, since we're not usually out in waters that allow for dumping, I'm hesitant to just remove an otherwise useful feature. Otherwise everything else is back in the engine room. That and tee-ing off an existing connection presents potential problems with pump suction causing backflow from what's already using that intake. I wouldn't want the added hassles of anything that might cause a restriction on the raw intake turn the pump pressure against the seals or plumbing of anything else.

I definitely wouldn't use the macerator thru hull for an intake. But for others, it depends on what kind of pump the other device uses. An A/C pump is centrifugal and will allow backflow, so sharing won't work generally. But anything that has a diaphragm pump or other positive displacement pump on it should prevent backflow and can share without issue (that's why I went for the head intake).

 

[wkearney99]

i have a raw water deck washdown pump tee-d off one of my large Groco strainers. I have one of these Aquor flush-deck fittings at my anchor and my cockpit. Definitely restricts flow a bit, but works pretty well.

I'm fortunate that the bow has two lockers alongside the windlass, with the water spigot in one of them. If I had to stow/use the hose elsewhere, yeah, those fittings are a nice option. The cockpit has it's own hose so I don't need to move anything fore/aft.

For a previous boat there was a round access hatch over the anchor locker and I put one of the Hosecoil units through the lid. I left enough slack in tubing that supplied it to allow pulling it up to gain access to the locker. The shut-off to it was in the cabin down below. https://hosecoil.com/collections/co...ount-enclosure-with-15-coiled-hose-and-nozzle

 

[DennisB1]

I have been using an ultra swivel with my 55kg Vulcan anchor. The swivel does a good job of aligning the anchor to the pulpit. The 55kg is too heavy to man handle to get proper alignment on retrieval of the anchor safely. I put a plastic spacer in the elongated slot to keep the swivel in its proper position on the shank of the anchor

 

[ssteakley]

Rocna worked for us

We had a 50 lb CQR that would drag on us occasionally, I later learned that you need extra patience and time to set these types of anchors properly. I bought a Rocna and kept the CQR as a second. The Rocna never dragged and set much faster during our 2 year cruise from Corpus Christi Tx. To Marathon Fl and back.

 

[Landshark]

Different types of anchors is IMO a needless exercise. There are too may variables between the anchor and the vessel to take into consideration. In particular, the anchor rode catenary. Or said another way; how much anchor chain is laying horizontal on the ocean floor? Any vertical effort on the anchor lessens its holding power. So, if catenary is present to the extent that no anchor rode is laying on the ocean floor the anchor is compromised. If an anchor is able to penetrate the sea bottom, virtually any reasonably sized anchor will hold if the force applied is 100% horizontal. That is if the force is parallel to the sea floor. That is why chain is so important in the rode.

 

[Moonfish]

Bill, have you purchased your new anchor yet? If you're interested in the Ultra, we just added the entire line of Ultra anchors to our online store. PM me and I can give you $500 off the 77 or 100 lb Ultra and Flip Swivel.

 

[USNA74GRAYGOAT]

Like Ranger58SB I’m also in the Ches Bay area and use a SuperMax for my Mainship Pilot 30-2. I was introduced to it thru another Pilot 30-2 owner of the Frolic, Rich Gano, who has been a very active Guru on TF for years and a seasoned veteran of many vessels. Highly recommend that you take a look at this anchor on their website. The owner and manufacture, Steve Bedford, was recently retiring to enjoy his Jefferson 42 and was seeking a buyer for his company. I checked the company website and was unable to connect so it may be due to a change in ownership. Steve is a great guy and an expert when it comes to anchors of all types, and I don’t think he would mind if you wanted to contact him by email at : bedford_steve@yahoo.com
Good luck with your search for the optimum anchor for your boat and typical cruising grounds.
Anchors Aweigh!

 

[BroadCove]

Bill, I replaced my anchor (can't even recall what was on the boat when I bought it) immediately with a 40kg Rocna Vulcan. I'll upload some pics so you can see how it would fit on your boat. It's not pretty chromed steel (although you can probably order that I suppose), but I've anchored from Maine to the Keys without once losing my set and with no difficulty anywhere with the initial set. All chain rode (5/16" if I recall correctly...purchased a new gypsy to go up to 3/8" but haven't done that yet).

There was a recent thread on someone having difficulty setting with this anchor. I haven't experienced that. I keep it simple...wait until I'm beginning to drift with the current or wind, let out the anchor and sufficient rode (I shoot for 5:1 initially), and it sets. I've never had to back down. Once I'm sure it's set, I attach my snubber bridle to lower the angle and take strain off the windlass.

If I were to do anything further, it would be to drill another hole in the pulpit to lower the retaining bar so it holds the anchor properly. But I have it secured with a clip and dyneema line to the windlass.

 

[ranger58sb]

Like Ranger58SB I’m also in the Ches Bay area and use a SuperMax for my Mainship Pilot 30-2.

Highly recommend that you take a look at this anchor on their website.

The owner and manufacture, Steve Bedford, was recently retiring to enjoy his Jefferson 42 and was seeking a buyer for his company. I checked the company website and was unable to connect so it may be due to a change in ownership.

I hadn't heard Steve might be interested in selling. He bought the company from Andy (original guy), and it doesn't seem like that was all that long ago.

Pretty sure he's a member here...

-Chris

 

[BroadCove]

Here are the pics of the Rocna Vulcan 40kg on my boat.

 

[wkearney99]

Bill, I replaced my anchor (can't even recall what was on the boat when I bought it) immediately with a 40kg Rocna Vulcan. I'll upload some pics so you can see how it would fit on your boat. It's not pretty chromed steel (although you can probably order that I suppose), but I've anchored from Maine to the Keys without once losing my set and with no difficulty anywhere with the initial set. All chain rode (5/16" if I recall correctly...purchased a new gypsy to go up to 3/8" but haven't done that yet).

There was a recent thread on someone having difficulty setting with this anchor. I haven't experienced that. I keep it simple...wait until I'm beginning to drift with the current or wind, let out the anchor and sufficient rode (I shoot for 5:1 initially), and it sets. I've never had to back down. Once I'm sure it's set, I attach my snubber bridle to lower the angle and take strain off the windlass.

If I were to do anything further, it would be to drill another hole in the pulpit to lower the retaining bar so it holds the anchor properly. But I have it secured with a clip and dyneema line to the windlass.

I get the impression that the Vulcan model is designed to 'hang lower' for pulpits that are underneath. How much lower does the 40kg hang than the plow used to? I printed a Rocna 55kg template (not a vulcan) and it would fit pretty much the same as the Suncor does. But by specs the 40kg is the 'proper' size.

As for that bar, it's well above where the shank of my Suncor rises. It's only purpose seems to be not letting the anchor/rode get thrown up and out of the pulpit. The hook of the plow seems to ride back into the forward/lower roller of the pulpit and holds there (against going vertical). I also use a short bit of dyneema and a clip on the chain to further secure it against the chain paying out.

Galvanized vs stainless is a nearly double price bump. I'd wonder if the shinier surface of the stainless is any better/worse for sloughing off the mud.

 

[wkearney99]

Here are the pics of the Rocna Vulcan 40kg on my boat.

Nice, pix help, thanks!

Is there any upward movement of the anchor in rough seas? I don't have a good picture to 'prove' the point but it seems like the way the Suncor is shaped it managed to make contact with the underside of the forward/lower roller and that helps prevent the anchor from pitching upward in rough conditions. It never comes anywhere close to ever contacting the pin on mine.

I had a previous boat whose Delta didn't really fit as effectively as it probably should have and managed to bounce around. That and it had a tedious to use flip-over sort of chain 'keeper' and that didn't really work properly either. It managed to get loose during some bad conditions and come up/out of the roller! Thankfully just nicked a small spot on the deck and then slammed back into place.

I'd wonder if a wide roller or bushing of some sort on that pin would provide a sort of softer pressure surface to rest down on the curve of that shank.

 

[ssteakley]

7:1 +

Different types of anchors is IMO a needless exercise. There are too may variables between the anchor and the vessel to take into consideration. In particular, the anchor rode catenary. Or said another way; how much anchor chain is laying horizontal on the ocean floor? Any vertical effort on the anchor lessens its holding power. So, if catenary is present to the extent that no anchor rode is laying on the ocean floor the anchor is compromised. If an anchor is able to penetrate the sea bottom, virtually any reasonably sized anchor will hold if the force applied is 100% horizontal. That is if the force is parallel to the sea floor. That is why chain is so important in the rode.

We never had less than 7:1 ratio, all chain on a 42’ vessel. For higher wind/ waves we would go 10:1, I like sleep!

 

[BroadCove]

Bill, it hangs a bit lower, but I haven't noticed any functional difference. I actually think it looks better, but that's because it's proper ground tackle, not the "lunch hook" that was on before.

No, it doesn't bounce or jump in rough seas, and I've been in some decent stuff going up and down the coast. Although I avoid the worst days for sure. It does rock a bit side to side if I don't snug it up. Nothing bad, but I like to secure it with the dyneema regardless.

I like the idea of a bushing on the pin. That could work really well if I find the right sizing.

 

[DennisB1]

Chris Post 21:

The GB 49 stock number say 60K. I have hauled at two different yards and the weight was between 72 and 75K on the travel lift scale. fuel 1000 gal, water 500 gal. Both times water was on the low side and the fuel about 3/4 full.

 

[markpierce]

If you have heavy, sticky mud like in the San Francisco Estuary/Bays, a Bruce-like anchor should work well.

 

[ranger58sb]

Nice, pix help, thanks!

Is there any upward movement of the anchor in rough seas? I don't have a good picture to 'prove' the point but it seems like the way the Suncor is shaped it managed to make contact with the underside of the forward/lower roller and that helps prevent the anchor from pitching upward in rough conditions. It never comes anywhere close to ever contacting the pin on mine.

I had a previous boat whose Delta didn't really fit as effectively as it probably should have and managed to bounce around. That and it had a tedious to use flip-over sort of chain 'keeper' and that didn't really work properly either. It managed to get loose during some bad conditions and come up/out of the roller! Thankfully just nicked a small spot on the deck and then slammed back into place.

I'd wonder if a wide roller or bushing of some sort on that pin would provide a sort of softer pressure surface to rest down on the curve of that shank.

Mantus has a thing called an Anchor Guard... that can probably installed on you existing davit... to manage the angle of the Vulcan dangle.

We got one, to move the fluke tip slightly further away from the strike plate on our bow. Haven't installed yet; it's a 9'16" mounting hole and I need to turn it into a 5/8" hole.

-Chris

 

[ranger58sb]

Chris Post 21:

The GB 49 stock number say 60K. I have hauled at two different yards and the weight was between 72 and 75K on the travel lift scale. fuel 1000 gal, water 500 gal. Both times water was on the low side and the fuel about 3/4 full.

Interesting. If your 60K is dry weight, even that's about 8K higher than our dry weight. 49 @ 60K, vs 58 @ 52K. And that's even with our big-a$$ 14.6L diesels, ~3450 lbs each.

-Chris

 

[Bmarler]

I get the impression that the Vulcan model is designed to 'hang lower' for pulpits that are underneath. How much lower does the 40kg hang than the plow used to? I printed a Rocna 55kg template (not a vulcan) and it would fit pretty much the same as the Suncor does. But by specs the 40kg is the 'proper' size.

As for that bar, it's well above where the shank of my Suncor rises. It's only purpose seems to be not letting the anchor/rode get thrown up and out of the pulpit. The hook of the plow seems to ride back into the forward/lower roller of the pulpit and holds there (against going vertical). I also use a short bit of dyneema and a clip on the chain to further secure it against the chain paying out.

Galvanized vs stainless is a nearly double price bump. I'd wonder if the shinier surface of the stainless is any better/worse for sloughing off the mud.

I’ve got a stainless danforth that came with my boat, and I find it comes up much cleaner than a galvanized anchor did.
I’m torn about whether or not to replace it. It really does set well here, but the big tide changes make me nervous.

 

[rslifkin]

Interesting. If your 60K is dry weight, even that's about 8K higher than our dry weight. 49 @ 60K, vs 58 @ 52K. And that's even with our big-a$$ 14.6L diesels, ~3450 lbs each.

-Chris

I think Sea Ray was far more concerned with keeping weight down than GB was. Your boat is rather light for its size as a result.

 

[Old Sea Dog]

I'll second graygoat on the supermax. It came on the new to us GB36. Not sure of the size. Has 20' of 3/8" chain and 80' of 3/4" braid. Knock on wood, it held great on my run from Marathon to Crisfield.
I have no experience with polished stainless anchors. My blue collar opinion is that the bottom needs to be able to grab the surface of the anchor.
Not sure this anchor would solve your problem as the flukes are quite long.

 

[Nepidae]

Anchors

I notice that you ask your question and reference the Chesapeake as the defining location for anchoring.

Here is my input.

I just finished doing the Great loop over an 8yr period.

I've anchored in a number of different locations doing that.

My Rocna original anchor, a 55# model, was VERY instrumental in holding our 43' Albin sundeck during that Loop and specifically on the Mississippi in an 8mph current, overnight. Interestingly, the bow dip of about 6-8in to break the anchor loose, was very interesting.

I had limited experience on the Chesapeake before we left on the Loop but 1 instance that sticks in my mind occurred in Still Pond. We dropped our anchor for lunch & a swim and when we went to retrieve it, it finally came up with a truck tire wrapped around it. This may be more of a comment about our Lofrans windlass but anchor and windlass are a package.

Good luck with your choice, we all favor the anchor that rides on our bow and the Rocna will always have a spot on mine.

Any specific questions, PM me.

 

[ranger58sb]

Knock on wood, it held great on my run from Marathon to Crisfield.

Sidebar: We're actually thinking about visiting Crisfield in a few weeks. I'd be happy to hear recommendations, do's and don'ts, etc.

PM? Or maybe new thread?

-Chris

 

[Gdavid]

Sidebar: We're actually thinking about visiting Crisfield in a few weeks. I'd be happy to hear recommendations, do's and don'ts, etc.

PM? Or maybe new thread?

-Chris

Crisfield is O C Diver's homeport on the Chesapeake, or at least used to be. He could point you in the right direction.

It's been about 5 years since I've been, the town is economically depressed (hopefully that has changed), a real shame, the municipal marina is nice. A lot of the town is comprised of multi-level floats for soft shell crabs, shallow tanks with bay water pumped through them and crabs monitored and harvested after they shed their old shells. Best place for a soft-shell sandwich or platter. Tour boats and ferries run to Smith and Tangier Island. The flies are horrible with the wrong wind (I believe north-west is the worst). That's my recollection.

 

[Mambo42]

We never had less than 7:1 ratio, all chain on a 42’ vessel. For higher wind/ waves we would go 10:1, I like sleep!

I am with you !
You can never have too much chain out. If you have the space to manoeuvre than you may as well use it. Too many times I see, mostly sailing vessels, dropping the absolute minimum and then they go to sleep. The amount of them dragging through the anchorage is staggering. I stay away as far as I can from them.
Fun part is when you arrive in an anchorage and then start unrolling 80 to 100 meters of chain. You can see the question marks on their faces.

 

[Mambo42]

As for which anchor someone should chose I can only say that it should be based on the type of bottom you will encounter the most. Some anchors behave well in sandy bottoms, but not in mud or weed or rock.
I had a fluke, was horrible if there was any weed around, so I changed to Sarca Excel. I won't say it is the best, but it does the job if you set it well.

 

[amapola]

We love our Mantus.

 

[SteveK]

Has anyone never had a problem with a CQR?
My memory says that those at marina with CQR always complained about setting.
Perhaps it is the hinged shaft to plow. The Danforth was very popular in 70's and 80's around here and then the new gen slowing converted people. The Dan sets good on bottom but did not look great on the bow.