recommended anchor chain

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Steve

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Joined
Oct 6, 2007
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3,882
Location
USA
Vessel Name
Gumbo
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2003 Monk 36
It looks like I'll be needing to replace my anchor chain. It is about 200' of 5/16" G4, seems G4 is the same as grade 43,
I looked around a bit a good nearby hardware store that sells lots of marine oilfield stuff has Chinese made High-test hot galvanized grade 43 @ $1.43 per foot seems very cheap? West Marine (ACCO?) about $6.00 foot, same specs.
What else is available? what has been your experience?
Thanks!

What is on the boat now was there when we bought it in 2008 I don't know what brand it is. Sadly it seems lack of use has been the kiss of death for it is rusting badly in the locker pile. I must not have rinsed it well after the last use 2 yrs ago.
 
It looks like I'll be needing to replace my anchor chain. It is about 200' of 5/16" G4, seems G4 is the same as grade 43,
I looked around a bit a good nearby hardware store that sells lots of marine oilfield stuff has Chinese made High-test hot galvanized grade 43 @ $1.43 per foot seems very cheap? West Marine (ACCO?) about $6.00 foot, same specs.
What else is available? what has been your experience?
Thanks!

What is on the boat now was there when we bought it in 2008 I don't know what brand it is. Sadly it seems lack of use has been the kiss of death for it is rusting badly in the locker pile. I must not have rinsed it well after the last use 2 yrs ago.

Getting ready to pick up another 200' of 3/8" G4. Here are some things to consider:

Make sure the chain you are considering will work with your winch. Not all G4 is the same. Check with the winch manufacturer regarding specific manufacturers you are considering.

Shop Around. I will be buying Acco G4 as this works and is recommended by my winch manufacturer. Defender.com has a very good price on chain, but shipping depending on your location can be substantial ($266 for the chain I'm interested in). West Marine will deal on chain. When I priced it a year ago, they were my cheapest resource. If you call there order desk and ask for pricing on 200', they will give you a significantly better price than the "by the foot" price. Shipping is free to their stores. So in my case, I could order it and have it shipped to the store near me saving the shipping cost.

Finally if Acco works for your winch, Google search Acco G4 5/16 anchor chain. You may find a source close to you with a good price that eliminates the shipping cost.

Ted
 
I purchased 40' of Chinese chain (Canadian Metals) in 2011, had to regalvanize it in 2013 and end-for-end, 2015 just removed it from service as it needs galvanizing again in addition to removal of around 3' due to severe wastage.

It's a tough environment on a wire drum where it doesn't easily dry even though it is regularly flushed with fresh water.

Replaced with a 40' length of ACCO chain of the same size that I purchased in 1999 that was in service for 12 years, then regalvanized. It's still good to go.

My observation is that you get what you pay for.
 
I use 3/8 because it fits the winch. The chain needs to fit the winch.

 
Practical Sailor newsletter just did a series on chain. The West Marine stuff is Acco I am pretty sure, and I think Peerless has a thicker galvanizing on the chain and it lasted longer in their tests. I don't think you need a subscription to view their articles, check it out. I have the West Marine stuff, and I remember wishing I had access to the "other" brand since it tested out better, in the thickness of the galvanizing and endurance of it as well.
 
Just take your gypsy with you when you go chain-shopping.

I buy high-test as I have a drum, no need for dimensioned links as I don't have a gypsy. I go for strength not weight.
 
I imagine the chain is fine, it's really a galvanizing problem. Just to make sure though you might want to mic it. Anything more or less than 10% lengthwise and 5% diameter wise you should throw away. Should you decide to repurchase rather than regalvanize you have few choices. Chain dimensions will be decided by your current wildcat. The only real decision is chain grade which more than likely will be made by your budget rather than actual load requirements.

Sounds like your boat came with a 5/16ths iso type 40 rode. Your choices are BBB (a short link 1008 carbon steel bend before break or really just proof coil type 30) and type 70 (a heat treated version of 1020 carbon steel like your type 40). Whatever you decide, try to get the manufacturers proof certificate. If your buying genuine acco chain, peerless the manufacturer tests and certifies each link and sends along a certificate to prove it.

Very few people pony up for type 70 and when they do they usually go down one size to save weight meaning they also buy a new wildcat. One problem with type 70 is regalvanizing. It's already been heat treated and hot dipped galvanizing already reduces type 70s strength by about 10%. Doing so again isn't recommended unless it's also re certified which will probably end up costing more than new.

1st chain supply and defender sometimes have specials on pails and drums including shipping. I'm sure there is someone local willing to match their prices as well.


Spell check via iPhone.
 
Short link BBB is designed to not kink when piled up. Long link types have a greater tendency to jam.
 
Looking around on the 'net I see there is some US made SS 316 chain available at pretty good prices, Specs as G4 except for the WLL at 2400 lbs vs 3900 for the galvanized G4.
I imagine it cleans easier, piles better and won't rust.
Anyone using that?
 
Steve your not really interested in anchoring that boat are you?


Spell check via iPhone.
 
Are you meaning the 2400# wll of the chain in SS is to light?
 
Looking around on the 'net I see there is some US made SS 316 chain available at pretty good prices, Specs as G4 except for the WLL at 2400 lbs vs 3900 for the galvanized G4.
I imagine it cleans easier, piles better and won't rust.
Anyone using that?
FWIW, the catalog published by Whitworths Marine, our main chandlery chain, says:

" Please note: Stainless Steel Chain is not recommended for anchoring as it can work harden the chain which can make it susceptible to cracking".

Noting 1) ss costs near 3x gal in the catalog, and 2) Whitworths desire to sell as much product as possible at rewarding prices, recommending against ss seems to be against their own interests, although it might also be covering their butt.
I`ve long wondered if there is any justification for the warning. Thoughts?
 
Bruce,

I have always been advised not to use SS , I don't believe it certified ?

Cheers Chris D Liberty
 
Duplicate speel cheek.
 
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look at, on or in the windlass. The three designations for chain are pc, bbb, and ht. You will likely have some designation on the windlass itself letting you know what type is used. These different chains have slightly different sizes. The wrong one will either jam or slip on your gypsy. (or lock up on the stripper) make sure you get the correct one for your windlass. The mentioned comment to take your gypsy head in to the store would help, but that would not be under tension, using the stripper. But researching the actual requirements is better.


ImageUploadedByTrawler Forum1445899376.186999.jpg
 
OK, I'm about to reveal my lack of chain knowledge. We anchor at least 100 or more times a year. We have all chain rode. In fact, we are anchored right now in the Savannah area and the wind is howling. How do I know when chain needs replacing? Helluva time to ask.
 
When the galvanizing has worn off in too many places and it's starting to rust. You can have chain re-galvanized but I think I would prefer to spend a few extra dollars and simply get new chain.

A way to extend the service life of chain is to end-for-end it. Unless one anchors in truly deep water much of the time the part of the chain that gets all the wear is the forward part. So when you see the galvanizing starting to go you can pull it all out onto your dock, disconnect the working end from the anchor, feed that into the locker and secure it, secure the unused end to the anchor and haul it all back in. Then you should be good for some more years of anchoring.
 
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Steve, check defender.com. Order 200' of 3/8" G4 from them today. They had the best price I could find on a half drum and found a different trucking company which lowered the freight to $160. West marine no longer makes a significant price reduction for quantity. 200' of 3/8" G4 ACCO chain delivered to the marina (forklift required for unloading) was under $1,000.

Ted
 
OK, I'm about to reveal my lack of chain knowledge. We anchor at least 100 or more times a year. We have all chain rode. In fact, we are anchored right now in the Savannah area and the wind is howling. How do I know when chain needs replacing? Helluva time to ask.

Are you saying the chain should retain a metallic (not rust color) look, or do you mean actual flaking rust?
 
Well, ideally it should retain a galvanized look although this can darken with time and use. But chain can take a beating going out and coming in and being stacked in the locker and the wear of link against link. So it's to be expected that as the galvanizing wears off in spots rust stains can begin to appear. I don't think that alone is a reason to get rid of it. But when the rust becomes more than just staining then it might be time to think about replacing it. Certainly if you actually get flaking rust it's time for it to go.
 
... we are anchored right now in the Savannah area and the wind is howling. How do I know when chain needs replacing? Helluva time to ask.
Especially if the answer was "yesterday". Howard, I`m sure with your experience, were chain was degraded you would have noticed. It`s not as if you don`t test it regularly by anchoring.
Regarding ss chain, Chris`s point about it not being certified is a good one, I would like to hear someone with metal expertise comment as well. The main reason for maintenance or replacement of gal chain is rust or loss of galvanizing, neither of which should be an issue with (good) ss.
Last NYE a sailboat anchored next to us,on ss chain with an ss claw, which the skipper said came with the boat he bought second hand. Grade A bling for sure, and they stayed anchored.
 
OK, I'm about to reveal my lack of chain knowledge. We anchor at least 100 or more times a year. We have all chain rode. In fact, we are anchored right now in the Savannah area and the wind is howling. How do I know when chain needs replacing? Helluva time to ask.


When the links are wearing INTO each other, and when rust is pitting the surface I tend to not sleep so well.

Here is what Peerless has to say. Scroll down until you see 'Table of Chain Wear.' And buy a caliper. Technical Information | Peerless Industrial Group

Doing the math, this comes out to 1% of chain link loss of metal, or 1% of link elongation.
 
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We recently purchased 200' of 5/16 HT chain from West Marine. Because of the free shipping it was close to the same price as anyone else. My main reason for buying it from WM was that they have a 2 year no rust guarantee. I had read reviews of people buying new chain from various places and having it start rusting within a year. I have never had a problem warranting anything from WM so that clinched the deal for me.
 
Great information from all, and much appreciated. As you can conclude, as I'm writing this response, we made it through an awful night. I actually slept through it much to my amazement, and woke up finding the boat in the exact spot it was in when I went to bed.

I know you are all wondering, so I will end your agony---60# Manson Supreme.

Thanks all!
 
Great information from all, and much appreciated. As you can conclude, as I'm writing this response, we made it through an awful night. I actually slept through it much to my amazement, and woke up finding the boat in the exact spot it was in when I went to bed.

I know you are all wondering, so I will end your agony---60# Manson Supreme.

Thanks all!

I didn't think that anchor required chain to hold your boat.?
 
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