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01-15-2019, 10:57 AM
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#1
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Member
City: East providence
Join Date: Aug 2018
Posts: 6
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Need help fixing pulpit
Hello everyone. We had some issues in the fall and hit a nasty current under a bridge and hit the pulpit on out 79 ocean yachts trawler. It's bent slightly about 1/2 inch and the bottom panel detached. I am located in Rhode island. Just looking for any advice for fixing it myself. Thank you for any information
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01-15-2019, 11:10 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
City: Bellingham, WA
Vessel Name: Excellent Adventure
Vessel Model: 1995 Jefferson Ker Shine 45
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 395
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I would start with some pictures.
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01-15-2019, 11:32 AM
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#3
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TF Site Team
City: California Delta
Vessel Name: FlyWright
Vessel Model: 1977 Marshall Californian 34 LRC
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 13,728
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Let's see what you're dealing with.
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01-15-2019, 12:48 PM
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#4
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Valued Technical Contributor
City: Litchfield, Ct
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 6,784
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Most boat yards have a welder on staff or use a subcontractor with the capability to repair your pulpit. It sounds like it is both bent and the stanchion base either pulled out of the fiberglass deck or the weld failed and it broke loose. The latter is definitely a welding job.
Boat yard guys know how to finish the weld so it looks like new. A regular welder won't likely do that, although it might be just as strong.
David
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01-15-2019, 01:44 PM
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#5
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Guru
City: Miami Florida
Vessel Name: Possum
Vessel Model: Ellis 28
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 5,307
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Hit the bridge again but from the other direction? Sorry, I couldn’t help my self.
__________________
Parks Masterson
Retired from Hopkins-Carter Marine Supply
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01-16-2019, 09:50 AM
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#6
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Guru
City: Gibsons, B.C., Canada
Vessel Name: Island Pride
Vessel Model: Palmer 32'
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 4,414
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There are usually fabricators of railings, stanchions, masts, dinghy hangers and so on that either work out of boatyards or nearby that specialize in SS fabrication and repair.
Yellow pages and as mentioned asking at the local boatyard should get a few names.
I also agree that a couple photos might help narrow the advice down.
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01-16-2019, 11:50 AM
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#7
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Guru
City: Pender Harbour, BC
Vessel Name: Gwaii Haanas
Vessel Model: Custom Aluminum 52
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 3,791
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Stainless is the easiest metal to weld and with an electric polisher the results are easy to attain. You might be able to just remove it and bend it back, then reinstall it with bevelling the holes and rebedding with butyl tape. Don’t leave it, water will rot the deck core very quickly, especially fresh water.
__________________
Don't believe everything that you think.
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01-16-2019, 12:19 PM
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#8
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Veteran Member
City: San Francisco Bay and Delta
Vessel Name: Happy Clown
Vessel Model: Heritage 45 Europa
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 82
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Interestingly, I just fixed a similar problem this past weekend. My pulpit rail was bent in about 4"in a curve along a 4' length of 7/8" ss rail (don't ask.) I talked to my metal guy who advised against my idea of using heat and C-clamps pulling against a straight edge board. He said that instead we needed to "push" the rail out using pressure. He fabricated a simple tool (sorry no pics.) Imagine a 5' long piece of 2' box steel, with "strap hooks" at each end to hang the device of the rail. On the box steel, he mounted a small hydraulic jack that would slide along the box. We then hung the device and started pumping the jack head out at various places along the bent area, obviously starting at the apex of the bend then working out toward the ends of the bend. Within 20 minutes, we managed to "push the bend out," moving the jack along about 10 times. I had unscrewed the base of the nearest stantion, working it by hand back into alignment. Now the rail is very, very close to perfect. Total cost: $150
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01-16-2019, 11:32 PM
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#9
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Guru
City: Sydney
Vessel Name: Sojourn
Vessel Model: Integrity 386
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 13,329
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Hawkeye`s method sounds like a homemade version of a hydraulic Porto Power,used by auto body repairers to straighten frames etc.
Hope the OP gets good advice once the pics show what needs doing.
__________________
BruceK
2005 Integrity 386 "Sojourn"
Sydney Australia
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01-16-2019, 11:52 PM
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#10
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Member
City: East providence
Join Date: Aug 2018
Posts: 6
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Thank you all for your input I think I have attached a few pictures. I was thinking of trying to make something out of a car jack to lift it back up to where it needs to go and somehow angle it to bring it back the inch or so to the port side. Sadly where I am docked has no amenaties offered. Asked around for different advice and feel some people are just trying to rip us off.
To the person who said hit the bridge in the other direction thank you for the good laugh. It's unavoidable as you can see we are docked right next to it.
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01-16-2019, 11:55 PM
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#11
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Member
City: East providence
Join Date: Aug 2018
Posts: 6
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My phone isn't allowing me to upload any photos. I've tried several times. My email is shalynquigley@gmail.com if you would like to email me I would gladly send pictures
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01-24-2019, 07:33 PM
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#12
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Guru
City: Ashland, MA
Vessel Model: 1990 Silverton 40 aftcabin
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 1,208
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Hydraulic jacks......I guess some are better than others. I tried once to use a jack with it mounted horizontally instead of vertical. It would not pump the piston. When they work, they can be awesome
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01-24-2019, 07:40 PM
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#13
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Member
City: East providence
Join Date: Aug 2018
Posts: 6
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Thank you for your input. Hoping to be able to use a winch type system to pull it back and the jack to push it up straight. Hoping to be able to fabricate something ourselves so it won't cost a fortune.
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01-24-2019, 08:47 PM
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#14
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TF Site Team
City: California Delta
Vessel Name: FlyWright
Vessel Model: 1977 Marshall Californian 34 LRC
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 13,728
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hawkeye
Interestingly, I just fixed a similar problem this past weekend. My pulpit rail was bent in about 4"in a curve along a 4' length of 7/8" ss rail (don't ask.) I talked to my metal guy who advised against my idea of using heat and C-clamps pulling against a straight edge board. He said that instead we needed to "push" the rail out using pressure. He fabricated a simple tool (sorry no pics.) Imagine a 5' long piece of 2' box steel, with "strap hooks" at each end to hang the device of the rail. On the box steel, he mounted a small hydraulic jack that would slide along the box. We then hung the device and started pumping the jack head out at various places along the bent area, obviously starting at the apex of the bend then working out toward the ends of the bend. Within 20 minutes, we managed to "push the bend out," moving the jack along about 10 times. I had unscrewed the base of the nearest stantion, working it by hand back into alignment. Now the rail is very, very close to perfect. Total cost: $150
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How about a sketch or a link, Ted. I'm having a hard time picturing this but love the idea.
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