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Old 06-19-2016, 04:31 PM   #21
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Tadhana, does the polypropylene pick up the mud and grit from the bottom?
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Old 06-19-2016, 06:25 PM   #22
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My chain powers out 25 feet every 15 seconds. I just watch the second hand to know how much chain is out. I use cable ties as a visual backup.

For the OP, I have two dock mates that use Rustoleum brand with some sort of confusing pattern.
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Old 06-19-2016, 06:42 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by meridian View Post
Put the section of chain in a cardboard box for painting.
That's how I do it. I like a box 2 feet long and about 1 foot wide with notches cut in each end of the box, just large enough for the chain to fit in. Spray & move the box....I only have to mark the chain 3 times as that gets me to 150 feet.
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Old 06-19-2016, 07:56 PM   #24
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Well, no more than the chain picks up I suppose. I have been using it for 3 full years,here on the Chesapeake and along the ICW. Lots of muddy anchorages! and the rope does have some dirt in it. But it remains very easy to see. The tail ends of the rope stick out well and are easy to see in the dark. .
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Old 06-19-2016, 08:33 PM   #25
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Every time this issue comes up, I find it incredible the lengths folk will go to to save a buck, with all this elaborate marking of the chain, when chain-counters are so damn cheap and pretty easy to install yourself, unless you got the real high end, self-parking types. Heck, if I can do it on my old dunger, anybody can...

They only cost a fraction of what you all fork out for sonar, Autopilot, GPS, Radar, AIS, etc, and yet it's the one thing you will use every time you drop anchor, and up-anchor, with no visibility issues whatsoever. You don't have to go out in the rain...ever...

I don't even have autopilot, AIS, or Radar, and manage fine without. But I'd hate to manage now without my chain counter. Had to once for a time, when the magnet rusted out - replaced with better one asap. Hated it the whole time until fixed. The last thing I want to have to do when manoeuvring to drop anchor is to try counting bits of coloured stuff flying over the end of the fricking roller..!

It's kinda like electric windows or remote locking on a car I guess. You never realise just how great it is until you have it.
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Old 06-19-2016, 10:42 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tadhana View Post
Well, no more than the chain picks up I suppose. I have been using it for 3 full years,here on the Chesapeake and along the ICW. Lots of muddy anchorages! and the rope does have some dirt in it. But it remains very easy to see. The tail ends of the rope stick out well and are easy to see in the dark. .
How do you weave the line through the chain? Do you tie off the ends? Thanks.

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Old 06-19-2016, 11:43 PM   #27
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But I'd hate to manage now without my chain counter. ....The last thing I want to have to do when maneuvering to drop anchor is to try counting bits of colored stuff flying over the end of the fricking roller..! It's kinda like electric windows or remote locking on a car I guess. You never realize just how great it is until you have it.
Well, that pretty much sums it up for me! I think that's my next toy!
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Old 06-19-2016, 11:59 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by Codger2 View Post
Well, that pretty much sums it up for me! I think that's my next toy!
Whaaaat? Walt. That amazing vessel of your'n has no chain counter. Oh, man...go...go now and organise one. You'll be able to get the nifty self-docking bells and whistles version even. You'll find yourself saying, "that's the best dang thang I've ever added".

Hang on...didn't your Halvorsen Gourmet 32' Cruiser have one..?
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Old 06-20-2016, 06:41 AM   #29
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Thanks for the replies, and the old links to past threads, great stuff.

Regarding those imtra links, so they stayed in place after years of anchor pulling? Can you see them in low light?
They work great. And yes you can see them in low light.
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Old 06-20-2016, 06:47 AM   #30
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How do you weave the line through the chain? Do you tie off the ends? Thanks.

Howard
You just weave it through the spaces in the links. You don't need to tie off the ends. But I do whip the ends one way or the other.
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Old 06-20-2016, 09:41 AM   #31
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Hang on...didn't your Halvorsen Gourmet 32' Cruiser have one..?
Nope! She didn't have one! I saw her just the other day and her new owners are taking better care of the boat than I did & that's the gospel truth. Seahorse is now called "True Blue" and can be seen cruising San Diego bay frequently.

Yep, this anchor needs a nanny!
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Old 06-20-2016, 10:18 AM   #32
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I don't know anyone that has a chain counter, so I never though about installing one.

Also, The anchor locker gets hammered with dirt and salt, so I figured an electronic device was prone to failure with time.


I just cleaned out mine yesterday, including removing and spraying down the electrical connections with super lube.

I like the box method described with the hole in each end to prevent over spray.
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Old 06-20-2016, 12:15 PM   #33
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I've tried a variety of different paints and have standardized on Kylon's road marking paint. I found Rustoleum would flake off after a year or abrasion. The road marking paints are made for some contact (or so I convinced myself).

I'm also a one color guy for marking chain. It's too difficult to tell colors in low lighting. So 1 mark for 25', 2 for 50', 3 for 75', and 4 for 100'. Then it repeats. If you can't tell which "hundred" you're on, you're not paying enough attention. It hasn't ever been a problem and makes it all much easier to paint.

I often put some zinc primer under the Krylon. It usually lasts 2 years.
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Old 06-20-2016, 12:35 PM   #34
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I anchor a lot. I have several links painted red at 50 feet, and at 100 feet.
I don't need any other markings.
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Old 06-22-2016, 07:31 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fletcher500 View Post
I don't know anyone that has a chain counter, so I never though about installing one.
Also, The anchor locker gets hammered with dirt and salt, so I figured an electronic device was prone to failure with time.
Fletch, the chain counter in most cases is well clear of salt water and muddy muck, as you can see here in the pic below, with the reed switches mounted on the winch housing opposite the top of the gypsy, and the magnet in a hole drilled through the gypsy. Winches which are vertically mounted, and only the gypsy above deck might be a bit trickier to fit, but they make counters for them. Presumably the reed switches are mounted on the non-rotating part of the chain guide somewhere where it won't be knocked off.

This is one...
Rode Counters : Rodster - Online Marine Equipment Store

and here's another...
Muir AA150 Chain Counter | Anchoring & Docking | Anchor Winch Accessories | Boating and RV

and these ones fit vertical winches for sure...as most, if not all of the Lewmars are vertical - one of these is even wireless, so not even wires to run and connect.
https://www.keoghsmarine.com.au/Anch...Chain-Counters
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Old 06-30-2016, 12:28 PM   #36
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Same here. I last used some Valspar Outdoor, from Lowes. Still quite visible after 3 years, so I doubt the brand makes much difference. And, the R-W-B every 5 fathoms keeps it simple. I'll be touching it up this week.

I can buy a lot of paint for the cost of a chain counter!


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Rustoleum. Red, white and blue every 30 feet. Red 30, white 60, blue 90 repeat. First painted three years ago time for a touch up. I did not use primer on the galvinized chain and it seems to hold up well.

For the beating it takes going in and out of the locker I don't think it matters what brand paint you use.

Rob
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Old 07-10-2016, 12:06 AM   #37
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Old thread but I just painted my chain.

While I like the RWB idea, I wasn't sure about differentiating the colors in the dark. I ended up doing something similar to the suggestions above.

I bought three Rustoleum paint colors, standard gloss white, fluorescent yellow and fluorescent green.

I used about a 12 inch section of yellow for each 25'. So at 25', 1 yellow section, 2 sections of yellow at 50' and 3 at 75'. I used the white paint to paint about a 5-6" separation between each section at a 3 link bit of white at either end of the yellow. I wanted good contrast for flat light or low light. I use about a 18" section of the green at 100' (bordered by three links of white). Then at 125' I started putting a small band of green before the yellow sections. At 200' there are 2 green sections then 2 small green bands before the yellow sections at 223'. 25', and 275'

Again, using suggestion from you all I added a white section that will show up just before the anchor breaks free of the water when raising, and I used a long yellow sections before the anchor rode is completely played out at about 300'.

While my son and I were painting, we were less than impressed by the yellow. However, today when using the anchor for the first time I was amazed at how easy the yellow was to see. Using the white paint to separate and border it was a huge help. I only used 75' of rode today so don't know how the green turned out.

Thanks for all the great ideas and discussion. It helped me decide what and how I was going to do it. (yes, I used a box as was suggested to paint the chain at the dock)

Hopefully, the paint will last for a few years.
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Old 07-10-2016, 10:31 PM   #38
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I'll be replacing mine, 200' of 5/16', this week. My plan is, 5' of white before the anchor shackle, a foot (maybe 2)of red and a red cable tie at 50', a foot of yellow at 75', a foot of white with white cable tie at 100', foot of yellow at 125', foot of blue and blue cable tie at 150', foot of yellow at 175', 5' of white before the end at 200' I'll have about 15' of nylon rope between the end of the chain and the ubolt in the anchor locker. I very seldom anchor in more than 15' of water.
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Old 12-01-2016, 01:40 PM   #39
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I painted my chain at 60', 120' and 180', and the bitter end. My theory was that I never use less than 60', most often use 120', and seldom have to get to 180'. Works great here in Maine, and is simple.
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Old 12-01-2016, 01:50 PM   #40
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I painted my chain at 60', 120' and 180', and the bitter end. My theory was that I never use less than 60', most often use 120', and seldom have to get to 180'. Works great here in Maine, and is simple.
Welcome to the forum Jack.
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