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Old 12-05-2013, 04:58 PM   #21
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Answer, any of the various colourful methods above - all nigh impossible to see at night, even with a light…or you could add in a chain counter. If I can install one on mine…anyone can.
Oliver, like a great anchor, a Nordy deserves a chain counter…c'mon…

http://www.cruzpro.com/ch55.html
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Old 12-05-2013, 05:18 PM   #22
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I repaint the markings every 2 years. I've tried every paint possible and nothing lasts more than 2 years especially if you anchor a lot. I've been using metal primer and street marking paint for the last 2 applications (the spray paint they use to mark pavement) and I could be convinced that it lasts a little longer than anything else I've tried. But it's not great.

I like adding small colored wire ties too. They seem to last about 50 deployments but are simple to replace. It's funny how they all start to break at about the same time. I just replaced about 12 of them yesterday after anchoring a dozen times in November with none of them missing.
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Old 12-05-2013, 05:18 PM   #23
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Answer, any of the various colourful methods above - all nigh impossible to see at night, even with a light…or you could add in a chain counter. If I can install one on mine…anyone can. Oliver, like a great anchor, a Nordy deserves a chain counter…c'mon… http://www.cruzpro.com/ch55.html
How are they installed, and I'll check them out.
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Old 12-05-2013, 06:14 PM   #24
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We installed an Auto Anchor four years ago and love it. It does everything, you set how much chain you want out and push the button out it goes and stops. Push retrieve and it comes back in slowing down at a preset measurement then stops. Life is so simple, I love it..............
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Old 12-05-2013, 06:47 PM   #25
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We adopted a very simple system so even I can remember it. Remembering a bunch of colors and which one represents which distance would never work for me. I'd forget it before I painted the last color. Also, I decided that 50' was all the granularity needed. It's easy to estimate +/- around 50' increments and be more than accurate enough to get the scope you need.

So the scheme is two colors; yellow on the 50s, and red on the 100s. Each time a red goes by you have paid out another 100'. When you see a yellow, it's another 50' on top of that. All you need to count are the red 100s, and even I can keep count of that.

If you don't want to count, you could paint the red in multiple bands to indicate how many 100s. However another advantage of not painting bands is that the marking still works when at some time in the future you reverse the chain, assuming of course that you have an even number of 100'

As this thread makes clear, there are lots of ways to do it. You just need to pick what you think will work best for you.
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Old 12-05-2013, 06:51 PM   #26
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Bay Pelican has a chain counter, Cruz Pro. Same unit as Peter on Lotus. I believe they are Australian as well. Work well. Not difficult to install. Maintenance issue is keeping salt water out of the wiring connections that close to the anchor pulpit.

We also mark the chain. Thus when lifting anchor the Admiral in the pilot house (behind the wheel) can determine where we are in terms of lifting the chain by looking at the chain counter while I on the foredeck can generally see by the chain markings.

Using the chain counter I drop anchor from the pilot house while still behind the wheel and only go to the foredeck for setting the bridle.

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Old 12-05-2013, 09:20 PM   #27
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Answer, any of the various colourful methods above - all nigh impossible to see at night, even with a light…or you could add in a chain counter. If I can install one on mine…anyone can. Oliver, like a great anchor, a Nordy deserves a chain counter…c'mon… http://www.cruzpro.com/ch55.html
For $237.00, you can't beat it! Ordering one now.
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Old 12-05-2013, 10:24 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N4712 View Post
How are they installed, and I'll check them out.
Jeeze Oliver, I don't know what those weird 'hellip' quotation makes in there are from, weren't in my original post, but anyway, to answer your question, I just followed the instructions.
They are clear and simple. Three wires go from the reed switches and mounting on the winch near the gypsy back to the instrument at the helm. One for each sensor (which is a magnetic reed switch, you can see them side by side in the pics), and the ground. You put through it a measured length of chain. You can calibrate it in feet, yards, fathoms or metres from memory, and talking memory, once set, that calibration is in hard memory, so is not lost even with total power loss. The head is wired to nearby 12v supply via a fuse, (seen in pic).
The instrument head also gives voltage readout option, and several levels of red backlight.
Worked for me, but if you were unsure about doing it, it would be a breeze for the local marina sparkey, (electrical guy), and I'd certainly recommend you used one if you went for the more sophisticated auto out and auto retrieve types like the Auto-anchor mentioned above there by Mike (Rochepoint). Muir have similar available also.
Oh yes, one word of warning…unless they have beefed up the magnet they provide, as the original one I got rusted out and stopped triggering quite early in the piece, fit a bigger magnet, i.e. one about 8-10mm diameter and 10mm in length is good - ferrite types don't corrode so quick either, and are as cheap as chips. Just takes boring a bigger hole in the edge of the gypsy. Needs about 1mm clearance from the reed sensors, and epoxied in, (again see pics)
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Old 12-05-2013, 10:32 PM   #29
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Jeeze Oliver, I don't know what those weird 'hellip' quotation makes in there are from, weren't in my original post, but anyway, to answer your question, I just followed the instructions. They are clear and simple. Three wires go from the reed valves and mounting on the winch near the gypsy back to the instrument at the helm. One for each sensor (which is a magnetic reed switch, you can see them side by side in the pics), and the ground. You put through it a measured length of chain. You can calibrate it in feet, yards, fathoms or metres from memory, and talking memory, once set, that calibration is in hard memory, so is not lost even with total power loss. The head is wired to nearby 12v supply via a fuse, (seen in pic). The instrument head also gives voltage readout option, and several levels of red backlight. Worked for me, but if you were unsure about coin it, it would be a breeze for the local marina sparkey, (electrical guy), and I'd certainly recommend you used one if you went for the more sophisticated auto out and auto retrieve types like the Auto-anchor mentioned above there by Mike (Rochepoint). Muir have similar available also.
Sorry i posted that before I looked closely at your pics, that's about as straight forward as it gets! as for auto anchor I don't need all that technology. I just want to know how many feet of rode I have out.
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Old 12-14-2013, 06:34 PM   #30
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We have a Cruz Pro counter (actually made in NZ). We had a problem with the sensors and magnet and replaced them after 7 years but I found a useful standby is to know the distance per minute deployed. Then you can simply keep an eye on your watch when dropping the chain - ours is approximately 20m per minute. Obviously doesn't work if you have a free-fall windlass.
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Old 12-15-2013, 12:29 AM   #31
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We have a Cruz Pro counter (actually made in NZ). We had a problem with the sensors and magnet and replaced them after 7 years but I found a useful standby is to know the distance per minute deployed. Then you can simply keep an eye on your watch when dropping the chain - ours is approximately 20m per minute. Obviously doesn't work if you have a free-fall windlass.
The problem was the magnet just being too tiny and rusting rather quickly Bendit. Hence my specific mention of that issue in the post to N4712.
I'm amazed yours lasted 7 yrs. I had to replace the magnet with a much bigger one after a couple of years. The reed switches in the sensors were never the issue - or have not been since the larger magnet, now 4 more years on….
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Old 12-15-2013, 01:37 AM   #32
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Very likely but the kit containing a rare earth magnet and new sensors was quite affordable.
I can't remember exactly how much but I posted the cost here some time ago.
Incidentally, the old magnet was extremely hard to drill out.
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Old 12-15-2013, 06:03 AM   #33
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I would have thought even if epoxied in it would just tap out with a big punch and hammer..? Mine did.
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Old 12-15-2013, 05:28 PM   #34
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No, the position on the chainwheel is such that the hole doesn't go right through - it's a blind hole. Vertical Nilsson hydraulic windlass.
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Old 12-15-2013, 08:04 PM   #35
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No, the position on the chainwheel is such that the hole doesn't go right through - it's a blind hole. Vertical Nilsson hydraulic windlass.
Aaaah (very loaded) aaahhh....now I see...yes. With my horizontal gypsy, the hole is drilled right through near the edge, making the removal the easiest bit really. Maybe you got a set after they had realised the magnet was too puny anyway, as I can't imagine the one like I got initially could have lasted the time you mention. It was only say 4-5mm diameter and about 8 mm long and shiney silver when new..? That sucker you see in there now is 10mm dimater and ~12 mm long, and made of ferrite, so it does not rust - they are naturally dark brown. The only downside was I had to take the minimum order of 20 I think it was, when I ordered them on the iNet. So I got lotsaspares...
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Old 12-15-2013, 09:35 PM   #36
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My watch has a stopwatch function, so I just start it when the anchor hits the water and stop when enough time has passed. My gypsy conveniently lowers at the rate of 1ft per second.
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Old 12-15-2013, 10:21 PM   #37
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My watch has a stopwatch function, so I just start it when the anchor hits the water and stop when enough time has passed. My gypsy conveniently lowers at the rate of 1ft per second.
Yes, I used to do that too - until I found out just how inaccurate that can be at times, especially if something distracts you during the count, hence why I fitted a chain counter…
One added bonus is just how accurate it is in advising where the anchor is on retrieval, for when to go for'd to do the anchor wash thing, etc. One trick I can do now is I can tell when the anchor is just still under the surface, so if a known muddy bottom, I swing the boat in a slow arc as we leave the spot, and that washes most of the mud off before I retrieve it all the way up. Often needs little or no further cleaning then.
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Old 12-16-2013, 02:56 PM   #38
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Everybody has their own approach, but I don't like running the chain out remotely. If the chain fouls coming out of the hawspipe, I want to see it and stop immediately, so I stand at the windlass and observe the chain pay out, and measure by old fashioned observation. I have painted 3' of the chain with white paint every 25' and white/red/white at 100'.
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Old 12-16-2013, 06:44 PM   #39
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Yes, the chain does occasionally foul in the hausepipe especially if it has a twist. For this reason, I don't use the preset deployment function , or indeed the auto retrieval.
I can see the windlass and bow roller from the wheelhouse.
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Old 12-16-2013, 09:15 PM   #40
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Everybody has their own approach, but I don't like running the chain out remotely. If the chain fouls coming out of the hawspipe, I want to see it and stop immediately, so I stand at the windlass and observe the chain pay out, ...
Me too.

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