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Old 03-27-2014, 07:02 PM   #1
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Joining Chain Links

I have 160 ft of 3/8" chain and would like to add another 100'.

The chain connector links available at the local store seem a little underwhelming to me. Just wondering if anyone has added to their existing chain, or is the considered opinion to buy new from scratch, though the existing chain looks in pretty reasonable shape.

FWIW, I have been thinking of getting a local shop to weld the chain links.

Any advise appreciated.
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Old 03-27-2014, 07:43 PM   #2
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I would not just cut a link and then butt weld it back together, it's just not strong enough. Proof coil lap links, like shown in the link attached, are available at most industrial suppliers though that can be welded and do a good job. Make sure the size matches your chain if going through a windlass. Good quality required.

http://www.1st-chainsupply.com/image...s/laplinks.jpg
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Old 03-27-2014, 07:57 PM   #3
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I believe Al had added extra chain to his rode with one of those links shown above and has good luck, I'm sure he'll chime in.
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Old 03-27-2014, 10:07 PM   #4
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I used a master link some times called a connecting link, it consisted of two matching link half's with pins that you pean with a hammer sort of like a rivet, one on each side of the links to make it solid. Never had one fail, should be available where ever chain is sold.
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Old 03-27-2014, 10:20 PM   #5
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Here's a Crosby Missing Link like I used...



...and here's a related thread from the past.

Bad chain link

To this day, it still looks great. I still keep the spare just in case, but so far, so good through three years and countless anchorings.
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Old 03-28-2014, 11:44 AM   #6
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Crosby definitely makes the best chain hardware. Buy Chinese at your peril.
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Old 04-02-2014, 06:38 AM   #7
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Buy Chinese at your peril.

I thought the Chinese links were so the boat could be sold to the insurer?
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Old 06-10-2014, 10:41 PM   #8
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For lack of knowing what is "Peening"
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Old 06-10-2014, 11:32 PM   #9
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For lack of knowing what is "Peening"
Hitting the protruding pins with a ballpein hammer until they fatten or swell enough that the pin is fixed in position. I will also add to this conversation another way to join chain particularly if windless is chain rope type. You got it ;short piece of anchor line spliced to both pieces of chain.
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Old 06-11-2014, 12:31 AM   #10
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"...short piece of anchor line spliced to both pieces of chain."
Never heard of that. Pretty clever.

The links such as Flywright suggested are stronger than the lap links.

The problem is that they are bigger than the G4 or BBB chain usually used with a windlass. They are also significantly weaker than the same size G4 chain. They are literally the weak link. They do match the strength of BBB pretty well.

Then the question becomes, does it matter? Some of you remember Chuck on Beach House. When he was last in Miami he bought some chain and a link from me. The chain was G4 so I asked him about the weak, oversize link he used to join his chain.

He said the one big link passed over his windlass with no problem and the chain was really stronger than it needed to be. That was more than a year ago and so far so good.
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Old 06-11-2014, 01:12 PM   #11
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RE; short double splice line to two pieces of chain. I used this set up for a few years. I would have to monitor the chain rope splices as I pulled rode up to make sure they mated well with windless not much different than single chain rode splice except there are two.
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Old 06-11-2014, 04:22 PM   #12
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Hammerlock link.Check it out.Used on commercial boats for eons.Might not be in local hardware store but they are around.
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Old 06-11-2014, 06:01 PM   #13
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Hammerlock link.Check it out.Used on commercial boats for eons.Might not be in local hardware store but they are around.
That is a good suggestion. But not sure how well, if at all, a hammerlock link would pass through a wildcat.
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Old 06-11-2014, 09:41 PM   #14
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Am planning on regalvanizing my chain roads while the boat is in the yard this summer. Was thinking about combining the 2 roads and buying a new one. Any reason not to cut one link on the original weld, twist open to insert the other link, twist closed and TIG weld, then have the road galvanized?

Any reason not to regalvanize an original Bruce anchor while I'm at it?

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Old 06-11-2014, 10:45 PM   #15
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Any reason not to regalvanize an original Bruce anchor while I'm at it?
You mean other than the fact it's a Bruce?
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Old 06-12-2014, 01:16 AM   #16
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OC-re-galvanized or not, it must be the wrong anchor!
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Old 06-12-2014, 09:00 AM   #17
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Not to hijack Andy's thread but can anyone advise how to distinguish BBB from G4 ? Are both sizes windlass specific or can some windlass's accept both?
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Old 06-12-2014, 09:58 AM   #18
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CK, The chain will be marked with G4 stamped into the links. I think BBB is also marked. The chain wildcats on your windlass will be made to fit a particular size chain so you need to check with the manufacturer. G4 and BBB are very close in size so I think some wild cats will accept either.
You can check chain sizes here ACCO Windlass Chains On Peerless Industrial Group

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Old 06-12-2014, 10:06 AM   #19
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You mean other than the fact it's a Bruce?
What's wrong with a Bruce? It's one of the more desired anchor's around here. A used original fetches a steep price.
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Old 06-12-2014, 05:09 PM   #20
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what's wrong with a bruce? It's one of the more desired anchor's around here. A used original fetches a steep price.


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