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Old 09-24-2014, 05:33 PM   #41
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On my Mainship, under contract, I replaced my hause pipes on the bow to the rope/chain locker with a combo hause pipe/cleat. To my surprise and dissappointment the thimble, schackle would not pass through. So I did a weave which is about the same size as the chain.
I like thimble-schackle arrangement best. It will not pass through a chain to nylon wildcat. I was a boatswain mate in the Navy, I never had occasion to conquer Samson braid, forgotten a lot, 45 years will do that. Thanks for the top on the app, I need a bit of ref tra....refresher training.
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Old 09-24-2014, 05:53 PM   #42
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When we upgrade our ground tackle to storm/winter worthy proportions, I'm leaning towards 90' of chain.

Under 'normal' circumstances the 90' of chain will keep the boing-boing yo-yo wind swinging antics to a minimum, and the nylon portion would soften jolts on the anchor if the wind is ever strong enough to make an all chain rode bar tight.
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Old 09-24-2014, 05:53 PM   #43
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BL,
I suspect that was in Chapman's book.

FlyWright wrote;
"Why 3 feet of chain? Seems hardly worth the trouble". That's the most important part ... right next to the shank so it will have the greatest tendency to keep the shank down so an anchor will set and if set so it will hold. The first 3' of my chain is 3/8" ... very heavy for my boat.

O C Diver,
Never anchor at 10-1 scope. That would have a huge area of swing. Fine in a big anchorage w only you there but how often will that occur. Never seen east coast waters though. What is "300' of 1/4" G4 chain with a WLL of 2"? WLL of chain?... "Arguing that an all chain road would compromise the safety of your vessel or would be inferior in a blow is going to be a hard sell." ... Yes. But if my theory flies it will result in just that. Only a small difference but if correct it shows that 50 to 200lbs of chain (or more) on many of our boats is not of any value except convenience.

Murray M,
IMO a bigger anchor should help you more than more chain.

See thread "SARCA spotted ... for more on my theory.
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Old 09-24-2014, 06:08 PM   #44
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OK, I see...you're splicing into the first 3 feet of chain. That's a horse of a different color. Sometimes details are lost in writing brevity and speed reading.

I was also advised that a boat's length of chain was considered a minimum effective length of chain. I wouldn't travel with less but enjoy much more at 120 ft.

Mule, you don't tell us what kind of windlass gypsy you have so it's hard to be specific with recommendations. Some gypsies can handle chain and line, but cannot handle the shackle. Others are chain only or line only.

Have you explored YouTube for instructions on various splices? https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...o+chain+splice
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Old 09-24-2014, 06:14 PM   #45
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Murray M,
IMO a bigger anchor should help you more than more chain.
Will be upsizing the anchor for sure. Under 'normal' circumstances I'm theorizing that the 90' of chain would help 'keep us put' in tight anchorages, where there could be a danger of swinging into thin water at low tide.
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Old 09-24-2014, 06:51 PM   #46
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I have a 38 foot 25,000 lb boat dry. Live aboard..read diesel, water, added systems and personal effects, overkill 33,000 lb.
I am upgrading ground tackle.. Ideally, I would like to have an all chain 7 to 1 anchoring ability in 30 feet Textbook....210 feet before nylon...thoughts???
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Old 09-24-2014, 07:04 PM   #47
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I just replaced my rode (chain and rope combo) this weekend and did the chain/rope braid like this so the transition is nice and smooth through the windlass:



...although I don't like his big melting technique for the bitter ends, I think that's messy. I whip my eye splices and back-braids like this.



Kind of anal I know, but much neater I think.
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Old 09-24-2014, 07:30 PM   #48
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Yeah, waxed nylon string. You bet, I whip even after searing the ends, then I sear the ends of the whipping waxed nylon string.

Remember, old, boatswain mate, forgot a lot, but remember some.
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Old 09-24-2014, 07:56 PM   #49
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Hendo posted pics of alternative methods of splicing rope to chain a while back on his boat building thread. An issue was the splice running through the windlass, he had enough chain that the rope section would probably never be needed. But with just a boat-length of chain, you`ll almost certainly run it thru the windlass every time.
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Old 09-24-2014, 08:08 PM   #50
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Mule, you even seal the ends of the whipping twine? Okay, we're both fanatics, but you're a notch beyond me. But then I must have all my mooring lines the same color, and my snubber line on my yellow shore power cables has to be yellow to match.
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Old 09-24-2014, 08:25 PM   #51
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Why 3 feet of chain? Seems hardly worth the trouble.
Should be at least the length of the boat. I've got all-chain rode on my trawler as it can easily handle the weight (much more than the 200 feet I have presently.) On my previous sailboat, it was a combination of rope and chain, but weight was a major consideration for a one-ton vessel without a windlass.
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Old 09-25-2014, 06:11 AM   #52
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>Ideally, I would like to have an all chain 7 to 1 anchoring ability in 30 feet Textbook....210 feet before nylon...thoughts???<

Perfect if you will be in Coral areas in the Pacific.

Chain in most coastal areas lays in MUD , which must be scrubbed off before going below or the boat will stink like low tide at all times. Either lots of brush scrubbing , or a clutched 2 inch engine driven pump is needed for the drill.

Long chain lengths only work when stored in an actual chain locker , tall and narrow .

If simply dumped in the bow the chain pile can tumble , and its a hand job to go and pull it apart so it will again run thru the deck hole.

For The AICW , a couple of ft of chain and nylon is easy to live with.

For the Bahamas 100ft of chain would be overkill, as most anchorages are shallow.

In the Carib short chain with lots of nylon is best as it gets really deep close to shore.
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Old 09-25-2014, 07:45 AM   #53
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Thanks..FF... That just saved me $400.
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Old 09-25-2014, 02:39 PM   #54
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>That just saved me $400.<

Bring 10% in BEER (Becks) to Ortona , if you pass by.

The reason only a little chain 4-5 ft is used is to help the anchor set , but most important the chain will stay above the surface (and things that would wear rope) as few bottoms will lety the anchor bury for more than a foot or 3.
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Old 09-25-2014, 03:26 PM   #55
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I added 100 feet of yellow poly to the end of my anchor chain..in a real emergency cutaway...and no time to add a buoy...it may help when looking to pick it up at a later time.
Great idea

I too have wondered if i would really have time to add a buoy.
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Old 09-25-2014, 04:28 PM   #56
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FF,
How-a-bout 3'of cable and then 4-5' of chain?
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Old 09-26-2014, 05:51 PM   #57
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I'm a simple man. Doesn't take much to make me happy. Original Bruce and chain back from regalvanizing and my new Rocna.

Click image for larger version

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ID:	33193

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Old 09-26-2014, 06:20 PM   #58
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>That just saved me $400.<

Bring 10% in BEER (Becks) to Ortona , if you pass by.

The reason only a little chain 4-5 ft is used is to help the anchor set , but most important the chain will stay above the surface (and things that would wear rope) as few bottoms will lety the anchor bury for more than a foot or 3.
You do have your moments...Becks beer..mine too..3x you have right above reproach.. 3 times
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Old 09-26-2014, 06:23 PM   #59
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I'm a simple man. Doesn't take much to make me happy. Original Bruce and chain back from regalvanizing and my new Rocna.

Attachment 33193

Ted
w

Who, where did the work. Be nice to know
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Old 09-26-2014, 09:29 PM   #60
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w

Who, where did the work. Be nice to know
V & S Galvanizing in Pertth Amboy, NJ. Probably have an hour or 2 of work on the chain ahead of me. In spite of their best effort, many of the links are lightly stuck together from the process. Basically you stand them up on a hard surface and modestly strike the top one with a hammer to break it free from the one below. Very few places regalvanize chain as it requires a shaker of spinner to throw the excess off and keep the links from sticking. I'm told the places that do chain a lot, yeild better results. These guys were the closest I could find at 200 miles away. Cost $425 for the chain and the Bruce. New 3/8" chain runs $1,700 for 400'. So I thought this was a good deal.

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