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Old 06-21-2016, 11:02 PM   #1
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Help this poor old sailor set an anchor...

I come from sailboats with relatively small engines. My last sailboat had a 56hp engine on a 40' boat. When I set my anchor I would give it about 80% throttle in reverse. Worked fine.

Now I have a 43', 31,000lbs boat with a 380hp engine. I don't think giving it that much power to set the anchor is a great idea.

I recall hearing a rule of thumb (for what those are worth) to use about 1hp per foot of boat to set an anchor. That is about what I had been doing on my past sailboats.

Assuming that isn't a silly concept, my Cummins will idle at about 600rpm. At 800 rpm, according to Cummins, it produces 58 hp. So, how much power should I be applying to set the anchor? The last time I anchored this new boat I pulled the anchor out twice after bringing the rpm up to my normal cruise power. I didn't think about it until today that this is about 140hp, 3x what I could ever have generated with my sailboat.

Second question. What scope should the anchor be set at? I'm not talking about what scope should be out for the anchor to hold, so lets not get sidetracked. I'm asking what scope should I use to set the anchor with an all chain rode? I used to set at about 5-1 on my sailboat and then adjust from there but that was simply an uninformed practice that seemed to work most of the time.
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Old 06-21-2016, 11:48 PM   #2
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........ my Cummins will idle at about 600rpm. At 800 rpm, according to Cummins, it produces 58 hp. Sounds about right to me! The object is to "set the anchor", not plow up the sea bed.

Second question. What scope should the anchor be set at?.......... I'm asking what scope should I use to set the anchor with an all chain rode? I used to set at about 5-1 on my sailboat I also like 5-1
This anchoring subject will generate all sorts of advice that may or may not be valid. It sounds like you have a handle on anchoring and since you've been successful, why change?
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Old 06-21-2016, 11:49 PM   #3
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I guess much depends on the type of anchor and the bottom. As far as how much juice to use to set it, I mostly don't bother with it. I just get it on the bottom, let out whatever scope seems right, back until it all comes snug and stop. If the wind picks up I often let out some more if its coming tight. For calm weather 2 or 3 to 1 scope is good, no need for more unless the wind comes up assuming a good set in good bottom. Others will no doubt have different thoughts.
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Old 06-21-2016, 11:50 PM   #4
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This anchoring subject will generate all sorts of advice that may or may not be valid. It sounds like you have a handle on anchoring and since you've been successful, why change?
Well, I had a handle on it with my sailboats. But seeing as how I have been a power boater for, oh... not quite 3 months, I don't think I have it down yet for my new boat. Thanks for the confirmation on my initial hunches though.
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Old 06-22-2016, 01:57 AM   #5
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David, depending on what type of anchor you have, (and I'm not trying to set off a "what's the best anchor" debate here on your thread), but as I say, depending on the type, some take some setting along the lines Codger just confirmed as sounding about right, eg the CQR and Danforth types. Some, like the roll bar types, more or less set themselves, and at most just need what puget-trawler above just described.

I suggest you check out Steve's anchor setting videos with reference especially to what type you have, as he's bound to have tested it. Just bear in mind his vigorous mode of setting might not be ideal for all types, and the short scopes he used likewise. He was doing this same for all to standardise the tests, but in individual cases, you soon learn what works best for whatever yours is. Dare we ask, what type yours is..? Then whoever has the same type can be more helpful based on their experience.
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Old 06-22-2016, 02:54 AM   #6
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Currently the boat has an undersized CQR. However, I am in the process of getting a properly sized Sarca Excel, largely based on watching all of Steve's videos numerous times.

So with the coming Sarca Excel, is 5-1 scope good for setting you think?
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Old 06-22-2016, 03:30 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dhays View Post
Currently the boat has an undersized CQR. However, I am in the process of getting a properly sized Sarca Excel, largely based on watching all of Steve's videos numerous times.

So with the coming Sarca Excel, is 5-1 scope good for setting you think?
Dave, you've just purchased the best there is out there. You won't have to set that sucker...it'll set itself, but back down on it at 5:1 very gently by all means if it will make you feel better before hitting the sack.
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Old 06-22-2016, 06:19 AM   #8
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"At 800 rpm, according to Cummins, it produces 58 hp. So, how much power should I be applying to set the anchor?"

While the engine may be able to produce 58 hp the prop at probably 400rpm (2-1 red) will be putting 5hp in the water.

Our method for a power boat is to stop the boat let down the anchor as we idle ( yes 4HP ) in reverse .

When 3-1 or 4-1 scope is reached with out nylon rode we snug off and feel the boat dig in and stop.We then release the rest of the scope , and if there is wind or current , feel the boat check up again.

We then set by hand the stern anchor 12H or 20H Danforth , lead to the foredeck.

Turn on the BIG anchor light and have a brew in the PH.
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Old 06-22-2016, 07:02 AM   #9
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Second question. What scope should the anchor be set at? I'm not talking about what scope should be out for the anchor to hold, so lets not get sidetracked. I'm asking what scope should I use to set the anchor with an all chain rode?

Different strokes. Consult the anchor manufacturer's guidelines for setting technique (recommended rode length while setting), 'cause they vary.

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Old 06-22-2016, 07:11 AM   #10
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I know when I repowered my old Mainship with more ponies, I could no longer use anything above idle speed to set the anchor otherwise it would pull out.

Now with my current boat I do as FF suggested, I let the wind do my initial set. If no wind then Idle speed only. After I let out my final scope and secure the snubber, then I'll go maybe 800 rpm max until the snubber stretches a little.
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Old 06-22-2016, 07:24 AM   #11
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I come from sailboats with relatively small engines. My last sailboat had a 56hp engine on a 40' boat. When I set my anchor I would give it about 80% throttle in reverse. Worked fine.

.
My starting place would be to do very much the same as you did on your sailboat. Then make minor adjustments as seem appropriate, just as I'm sure you did at one time on the sailboat. It's not different because it's a power boat, but different because it's a different boat, different anchor, different rode, and because you have different amounts of power available.
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Old 06-22-2016, 07:40 AM   #12
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Different strokes. Consult the anchor manufacturer's guidelines for setting technique (recommended rode length while setting), 'cause they vary.

-Chris"

Good advice Chris. There are some manufacturer recommendations for setting a particular anchor and it is best to at least know that. Experiment with the method and develop what works best according to the anchor, setting scope, vessel characteristics, and seabed. Many a failed set results from rushing the process. There are times in an emergency when you have to "pitch it" and work quickly. However, in those emergency situations, you are monitoring the situation and can make adjustments. Most manufacturers recommend a more deliberate approach allowing the anchor to settle into the seabed using a scope ranging from 2.5:1 to 5:1. Once the "initial set" occurs simply by slow drifting backwards or very low rpm backward movement, the rode will become straighter or even taunt. Then begin to apply increase rpm at a gradual rate. Let out a scope or 5:1 and apply more rpm and set the anchor. Lay out the proper length of rode and begin the normal monitoring process. More detailed information is available on many publications and websites.

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Old 06-22-2016, 08:05 AM   #13
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With our Krogen 42, about the same size but lower hp engine we use 1000 rmp to set the anchor. I would think 800 rpm would work for you.

We let out the full rode we intend to use, let it set, straighten out, attach the bridle and then we power set with the load being carried by the bridle.
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Old 06-22-2016, 08:25 AM   #14
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I have been anchoring small and large sail and power boats for a long time. Did the same as you say with them all. backing at low load until the bow lines up and the anchor stops. Depends more on the bottom than anything else IMO. Also IMO the initial setting doesn't matter much as the anchor will bury itself more as load increases or reverse in tide or drag if the bottom is not compatible with the anchor. Set the anchor let out scope and watch things for a while. If wind or tide changes do a check. Somehow I always wake up in the middle of the night if something changes. This has worked for me in the NE, West coast and FL.


Set two danforths in grassy mud on a sailboat that went through a minor hurricane. Bent one rodes were all twisted up but boat seemed where it started.
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Old 06-22-2016, 08:28 AM   #15
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Quote:
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"
Different strokes. Consult the anchor manufacturer's guidelines for setting technique (recommended rode length while setting), 'cause they vary.

-Chris"

Good advice Chris. There are some manufacturer recommendations for setting a particular anchor and it is best to at least know that. Experiment with the method and develop what works best according to the anchor, setting scope, vessel characteristics, and seabed. Many a failed set results from rushing the process. There are times in an emergency when you have to "pitch it" and work quickly. However, in those emergency situations, you are monitoring the situation and can make adjustments. Most manufacturers recommend a more deliberate approach allowing the anchor to settle into the seabed using a scope ranging from 2.5:1 to 5:1. Once the "initial set" occurs simply by slow drifting backwards or very low rpm backward movement, the rode will become straighter or even taunt. Then begin to apply increase rpm at a gradual rate. Let out a scope or 5:1 and apply more rpm and set the anchor. Lay out the proper length of rode and begin the normal monitoring process. More detailed information is available on many publications and websites.

Steve Bedford
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Great advice. Patience makes perfect. Every time I have issues getting a set is due to taking some sort of shortcut. A friend of mine who anchored thousands of times in decades of cruising had a motto. "Drop the anchor put out some scope pour yourself a drink" after the drink he'd finish the process. Used nothing but CQRs by the way.
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Old 06-22-2016, 08:36 AM   #16
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Do remember that your bow may be higher than before and needs to be included in scope calculations. Also IMO when it comes to scope more is better.
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Old 06-22-2016, 09:46 AM   #17
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"I'll go maybe 800 rpm max until the snubber stretches a little"

At about 20% of breaking strength nylon line will stretch.

As this is such a high number for most anchor line , the snubber should be quite thin 1/4, 5/16 or 3/8 in most under 25K anchorages.
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Old 06-22-2016, 01:41 PM   #18
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Dave,
Just feed out about 4 to 5-1 and back down untill the slack's gone .. go into neutral for a moment and then bring up the slack. Do that two or three times and then put it in reverse for a minute or two at idle.
If you're expecting wind more than 10 or 15 back down on the anchor a bit more. I usually set my anchors at 1400 rpm w only a 40hp engine but that's w small anchors too.

They say "soaking" an anchor w a little wind and bring about the final set very slowly. The slower you set an anchor the better and setting slowly may alow the anchor to go (don't like the word "dig") deeper when you haul down hard for the deepest possible set. Remember though that pulling hard on an anchor is how we break them out. W some anchors you may overpower them. Shouldn't take much of your 300hp to set the anchor. Think about haw hard you want to pull on whatever you attach your rode to.
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Old 06-22-2016, 01:56 PM   #19
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Thanks guys. You have confirmed my initial thoughts. I have just been in the habit of throttling up to set that it seemed a bit odd to not do that now, but it wasn't until yesterday that the difference in hp dawned on my simple brain.

Eric, your point about soaking is a good one. Just the wave action, current and wind should tend to set the anchor deeper over time. However, how cool would it be if Steve could show us if that really happens or not!
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Old 06-22-2016, 02:05 PM   #20
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I just done get it. Sure anchors tend to dig in with a lot of pull in one direction but when is that ever the case??
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