Help this poor old sailor set an anchor...

[dhays]

I come from sailboats with relatively small engines. My last sailboat had a 56hp engine on a 40' boat. When I set my anchor I would give it about 80% throttle in reverse. Worked fine.

Now I have a 43', 31,000lbs boat with a 380hp engine. I don't think giving it that much power to set the anchor is a great idea.

I recall hearing a rule of thumb (for what those are worth) to use about 1hp per foot of boat to set an anchor. That is about what I had been doing on my past sailboats.

Assuming that isn't a silly concept, my Cummins will idle at about 600rpm. At 800 rpm, according to Cummins, it produces 58 hp. So, how much power should I be applying to set the anchor? The last time I anchored this new boat I pulled the anchor out twice after bringing the rpm up to my normal cruise power. I didn't think about it until today that this is about 140hp, 3x what I could ever have generated with my sailboat.

Second question. What scope should the anchor be set at? I'm not talking about what scope should be out for the anchor to hold, so lets not get sidetracked. I'm asking what scope should I use to set the anchor with an all chain rode? I used to set at about 5-1 on my sailboat and then adjust from there but that was simply an uninformed practice that seemed to work most of the time.

 

[Codger2]

........ my Cummins will idle at about 600rpm. At 800 rpm, according to Cummins, it produces 58 hp. Sounds about right to me! The object is to "set the anchor", not plow up the sea bed.

Second question. What scope should the anchor be set at?.......... I'm asking what scope should I use to set the anchor with an all chain rode? I used to set at about 5-1 on my sailboat I also like 5-1

This anchoring subject will generate all sorts of advice that may or may not be valid. It sounds like you have a handle on anchoring and since you've been successful, why change?

 

[78puget-trawler]

I guess much depends on the type of anchor and the bottom. As far as how much juice to use to set it, I mostly don't bother with it. I just get it on the bottom, let out whatever scope seems right, back until it all comes snug and stop. If the wind picks up I often let out some more if its coming tight. For calm weather 2 or 3 to 1 scope is good, no need for more unless the wind comes up assuming a good set in good bottom. Others will no doubt have different thoughts.

 

[dhays]

This anchoring subject will generate all sorts of advice that may or may not be valid. It sounds like you have a handle on anchoring and since you've been successful, why change?

Well, I had a handle on it with my sailboats. But seeing as how I have been a power boater for, oh... not quite 3 months, I don't think I have it down yet for my new boat. Thanks for the confirmation on my initial hunches though.

 

[Peter B]

David, depending on what type of anchor you have, (and I'm not trying to set off a "what's the best anchor" debate here on your thread), but as I say, depending on the type, some take some setting along the lines Codger just confirmed as sounding about right, eg the CQR and Danforth types. Some, like the roll bar types, more or less set themselves, and at most just need what puget-trawler above just described.

I suggest you check out Steve's anchor setting videos with reference especially to what type you have, as he's bound to have tested it. Just bear in mind his vigorous mode of setting might not be ideal for all types, and the short scopes he used likewise. He was doing this same for all to standardise the tests, but in individual cases, you soon learn what works best for whatever yours is. Dare we ask, what type yours is..? Then whoever has the same type can be more helpful based on their experience.

 

[dhays]

Currently the boat has an undersized CQR. However, I am in the process of getting a properly sized Sarca Excel, largely based on watching all of Steve's videos numerous times.

So with the coming Sarca Excel, is 5-1 scope good for setting you think?

 

[Peter B]

Currently the boat has an undersized CQR. However, I am in the process of getting a properly sized Sarca Excel, largely based on watching all of Steve's videos numerous times.

So with the coming Sarca Excel, is 5-1 scope good for setting you think?

Dave, you've just purchased the best there is out there. You won't have to set that sucker...it'll set itself, but back down on it at 5:1 very gently by all means if it will make you feel better before hitting the sack.

 

[FF]

"At 800 rpm, according to Cummins, it produces 58 hp. So, how much power should I be applying to set the anchor?"

While the engine may be able to produce 58 hp the prop at probably 400rpm (2-1 red) will be putting 5hp in the water.

Our method for a power boat is to stop the boat let down the anchor as we idle ( yes 4HP ) in reverse .

When 3-1 or 4-1 scope is reached with out nylon rode we snug off and feel the boat dig in and stop.We then release the rest of the scope , and if there is wind or current , feel the boat check up again.

We then set by hand the stern anchor 12H or 20H Danforth , lead to the foredeck.

Turn on the BIG anchor light and have a brew in the PH.

 

[ranger58sb]

Second question. What scope should the anchor be set at? I'm not talking about what scope should be out for the anchor to hold, so lets not get sidetracked. I'm asking what scope should I use to set the anchor with an all chain rode?

Different strokes. Consult the anchor manufacturer's guidelines for setting technique (recommended rode length while setting), 'cause they vary.

-Chris

 

[jleonard]

I know when I repowered my old Mainship with more ponies, I could no longer use anything above idle speed to set the anchor otherwise it would pull out.

Now with my current boat I do as FF suggested, I let the wind do my initial set. If no wind then Idle speed only. After I let out my final scope and secure the snubber, then I'll go maybe 800 rpm max until the snubber stretches a little.

 

[BandB]

I come from sailboats with relatively small engines. My last sailboat had a 56hp engine on a 40' boat. When I set my anchor I would give it about 80% throttle in reverse. Worked fine.

.

My starting place would be to do very much the same as you did on your sailboat. Then make minor adjustments as seem appropriate, just as I'm sure you did at one time on the sailboat. It's not different because it's a power boat, but different because it's a different boat, different anchor, different rode, and because you have different amounts of power available.

 

[Steve Bedford]

"
Different strokes. Consult the anchor manufacturer's guidelines for setting technique (recommended rode length while setting), 'cause they vary.

-Chris"

Good advice Chris. There are some manufacturer recommendations for setting a particular anchor and it is best to at least know that. Experiment with the method and develop what works best according to the anchor, setting scope, vessel characteristics, and seabed. Many a failed set results from rushing the process. There are times in an emergency when you have to "pitch it" and work quickly. However, in those emergency situations, you are monitoring the situation and can make adjustments. Most manufacturers recommend a more deliberate approach allowing the anchor to settle into the seabed using a scope ranging from 2.5:1 to 5:1. Once the "initial set" occurs simply by slow drifting backwards or very low rpm backward movement, the rode will become straighter or even taunt. Then begin to apply increase rpm at a gradual rate. Let out a scope or 5:1 and apply more rpm and set the anchor. Lay out the proper length of rode and begin the normal monitoring process. More detailed information is available on many publications and websites.

Steve Bedford
Super MAX Anchors

 

[Bay Pelican]

With our Krogen 42, about the same size but lower hp engine we use 1000 rmp to set the anchor. I would think 800 rpm would work for you.

We let out the full rode we intend to use, let it set, straighten out, attach the bridle and then we power set with the load being carried by the bridle.

 

[bayview]

I have been anchoring small and large sail and power boats for a long time. Did the same as you say with them all. backing at low load until the bow lines up and the anchor stops. Depends more on the bottom than anything else IMO. Also IMO the initial setting doesn't matter much as the anchor will bury itself more as load increases or reverse in tide or drag if the bottom is not compatible with the anchor. Set the anchor let out scope and watch things for a while. If wind or tide changes do a check. Somehow I always wake up in the middle of the night if something changes. This has worked for me in the NE, West coast and FL.


Set two danforths in grassy mud on a sailboat that went through a minor hurricane. Bent one rodes were all twisted up but boat seemed where it started.

 

[caltexflanc]

"
Different strokes. Consult the anchor manufacturer's guidelines for setting technique (recommended rode length while setting), 'cause they vary.

-Chris"

Good advice Chris. There are some manufacturer recommendations for setting a particular anchor and it is best to at least know that. Experiment with the method and develop what works best according to the anchor, setting scope, vessel characteristics, and seabed. Many a failed set results from rushing the process. There are times in an emergency when you have to "pitch it" and work quickly. However, in those emergency situations, you are monitoring the situation and can make adjustments. Most manufacturers recommend a more deliberate approach allowing the anchor to settle into the seabed using a scope ranging from 2.5:1 to 5:1. Once the "initial set" occurs simply by slow drifting backwards or very low rpm backward movement, the rode will become straighter or even taunt. Then begin to apply increase rpm at a gradual rate. Let out a scope or 5:1 and apply more rpm and set the anchor. Lay out the proper length of rode and begin the normal monitoring process. More detailed information is available on many publications and websites.

Steve Bedford
Super MAX Anchors

Great advice. Patience makes perfect. Every time I have issues getting a set is due to taking some sort of shortcut. A friend of mine who anchored thousands of times in decades of cruising had a motto. "Drop the anchor put out some scope pour yourself a drink" after the drink he'd finish the process. Used nothing but CQRs by the way.

 

[bayview]

Do remember that your bow may be higher than before and needs to be included in scope calculations. Also IMO when it comes to scope more is better.

 

[FF]

"I'll go maybe 800 rpm max until the snubber stretches a little"

At about 20% of breaking strength nylon line will stretch.

As this is such a high number for most anchor line , the snubber should be quite thin 1/4, 5/16 or 3/8 in most under 25K anchorages.

 

[Nomad Willy]

Dave,
Just feed out about 4 to 5-1 and back down untill the slack's gone .. go into neutral for a moment and then bring up the slack. Do that two or three times and then put it in reverse for a minute or two at idle.
If you're expecting wind more than 10 or 15 back down on the anchor a bit more. I usually set my anchors at 1400 rpm w only a 40hp engine but that's w small anchors too.

They say "soaking" an anchor w a little wind and bring about the final set very slowly. The slower you set an anchor the better and setting slowly may alow the anchor to go (don't like the word "dig") deeper when you haul down hard for the deepest possible set. Remember though that pulling hard on an anchor is how we break them out. W some anchors you may overpower them. Shouldn't take much of your 300hp to set the anchor. Think about haw hard you want to pull on whatever you attach your rode to.

 

[dhays]

Thanks guys. You have confirmed my initial thoughts. I have just been in the habit of throttling up to set that it seemed a bit odd to not do that now, but it wasn't until yesterday that the difference in hp dawned on my simple brain.

Eric, your point about soaking is a good one. Just the wave action, current and wind should tend to set the anchor deeper over time. However, how cool would it be if Steve could show us if that really happens or not!

 

[bayview]

I just done get it. Sure anchors tend to dig in with a lot of pull in one direction but when is that ever the case??

 

[caltexflanc]

Thanks guys. You have confirmed my initial thoughts. I have just been in the habit of throttling up to set that it seemed a bit odd to not do that now, but it wasn't until yesterday that the difference in hp dawned on my simple brain.

Eric, your point about soaking is a good one. Just the wave action, current and wind should tend to set the anchor deeper over time. However, how cool would it be if Steve could show us if that really happens or not!

Well all he could show you is if it happens on the occasion he videos. Experience tells me it definitely happens, particularly on bottoms that are on the soft side. You can dive it and see it deeper every day.

 

[psneeld]

Anchoring is something I don't see as a "canned" ritual. Many variables...especially weather and tides in addition to bottom.


Probably why some people tend to call anchoring as much art as science.


What I might do for an well protected, anchorage in muddy sand, no tidal reversal and fair weather might be different than an exposed anchorage, with heavy weather on its way.


Most of the time my anchoring is a bit of a ritual, as my limitations to anchor make it relatively easy....but there are enough variations that each time is an evaluation followed by steps to make each component work as predicted....and it may include a severe backing set if necessary to see if the anchor really is well set.

 

[Steve Bedford]

There are a number of users of our anchor who swear by the process of:
1. Once the anchor is set (using the method I suggested earlier) to "stress the set" by throttling up then "relaxing the tension."
2. The theory is that the slight throttle up pulls on the flukes of the set anchor digging deeper.
3. Then relaxing the tension actually allows the anchor to settle deeper.
4. They repeat that a few times.

Of course there is no video evidence of this because all the action is below the seabed. Sounds like a good process however.

Regarding the throttle speed, it has been my experience of folks who use our anchor to often recommend a stronger throttle action with sailboats than what they normally use. For big powerboats, I recommend some experimenting to see what is too much throttle. Generally, patience and deliberate actions work best.

 

[BruceK]

Steve Bedford pretty much nails our procedure in #23 above, especially the repeated test loadings.
Applying a load serves 2 purposes:1) It tests if the anchor is really set at all and 2) improves the set by driving the anchor in.
Re the Sarca, note Steve`s tests showed Sarcas well set and resetting on reversal well under 5:1.
We usually back down at idle while paying out, and test/load the set at 1000rpm,on Lehman 120s. If its nicely set, I sense a kind of slight "stall" effect on the engines, when they take the load, and strain, but boat stays put.

 

[Codger2]

Dave, you've just purchased the best there is out there. You won't have to set that sucker...it'll set itself, but back down on it at 5:1 very gently by all means if it will make you feel better before hitting the sack.

Could not agree more! Especially feeling good before you hit the sack!

 

[dhays]

Could not agree more! Especially feeling good before you hit the sack!

Well, if I've been a good boy, I get to feel good after I hit the sack as well.

 

[Art]

Hi Dave

It's not really rocket science. Just have good brand/design anchor sizable enough for your boat (for safety/security reasons, I recommend one size larger than that which is recommended) then gently drop anchor while letting out a good amount of scope (4 to 1 is fine for setting purposes) and back down in idle speed. Once boat has stopped moving backwards the anchor has grabbed into the bottom. Then, to be sure the set is good, I juice my engine (to 1500 +/-) rpm a couple times for a couple seconds each in reverse and then shut her down. Depending on room to other boats and items in area I may or may not let out additional scope. 5 to 1 is my most liked in relatively calm weather. 6 to 1 or even a bit more in stormy conditions.

Happy Anchor-Setting Daze! - Art

 

[ranger58sb]

"
Different strokes. Consult the anchor manufacturer's guidelines for setting technique (recommended rode length while setting), 'cause they vary.

-Chris"

Good advice Chris. There are some manufacturer recommendations for setting a particular anchor and it is best to at least know that.
Steve Bedford
Super MAX Anchors

Heh... Thought about you the other day, Steve, when we were anchoring nearby with the MAX17 that we switched to last year. The sucker grabbed while deployment we still in progress, still had less than 2:1 scope out, jerked the boat to a stop, kinda caught me by surprise!

-Chris

 

[Art]

Heh... Thought about you the other day, Steve, when we were anchoring nearby with the MAX17 that we switched to last year. The sucker grabbed while deployment we still in progress, still had less than 2:1 scope out, jerked the boat to a stop, kinda caught me by surprise!

-Chris

So, Chris... Was it hard to get the anchor untangled from the old cable it snagged on the bottom??

Just kidding - I'll Google MAX17, seeking info on it.

 

[Steve Bedford]

Chris,
Thanks for the report. I have a lot of findings that the Super MAX grabs before the operator actually proceeds with the "setting process." Documented on the company website.

Steve Bedford
Super MAX Anchors
maxmarineproducts.com