Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 12-01-2016, 06:37 PM   #41
TF Site Team
 
FlyWright's Avatar
 
City: California Delta and SF Bay
Country: Sacramento, CA, USA (boat in Vallejo)
Vessel Name: FlyWright
Vessel Model: Marshall Californian 34 LRC
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 9,888
My flybridge is really my attic. I've also got a bucket o' rope onboard.

Just say "No!" to pretentious yachties!
__________________
Advertisement

__________________
Al

Custom Google Trawler Forum Search
FlyWright is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-01-2016, 07:41 PM   #42
Guru
 
Moonstruck's Avatar
 
City: Hailing Port: Charleston, SC
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Moonstruck
Vessel Model: Sabre 42 Hardtop Express
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 7,811
A skinny chain rode will make your boat look fat.
__________________

__________________
Don on Moonstruck
Sabre 42 Hardtop Express & Blackfin 25 CC
When cruising life is simpler, but on a grander scale (author unknown)
http://moonstruckblog.wordpress.com/
Moonstruck is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 12-01-2016, 07:45 PM   #43
Senior Member
 
ktdtx's Avatar
 
City: Galveston, Texas
Country: U.S.A.
Vessel Name: Howdy
Vessel Model: 52' North Pacific
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 400
My Boat is fat and when I put the bridle on no one can see the chain.

So, we're back to horizontal and vertical stripes.
__________________
Ken Diestler
Galveston, Tx
ktdtx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-04-2016, 02:18 PM   #44
Senior Member
 
Nightsky's Avatar
 
City: Comox
Country: Canada
Vessel Model: 1994 Carver 390
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 138
Quote:
Originally Posted by AlaskaDreaming View Post
Hi All,

I am new to owning a trawler, having just purchased a 1982 42' KadeyKrogen. She is a big boat, that does take a lot of windage with a very high bow and lots of area to get blown around. Upon purchasing I noticed that the chain was pretty rusty - up to about 110' (looks very solid after that and it is 5/16" 3B chain). I assume rust up to that point is due to it being pretty old and likely of the 320', this is the part that got the most use. I was trying to decide whether to swap the chain end of end, putting the rusty end where it is unlikely to come out of the chain locker - or was considering getting a chain connector and just cutting off the 110' of rusty chain and replacing. While taking the chain out to get a better look - lots of folks offered opinions. One person said that for a boat that size I needed minimum 3/4"chain, and that 3B was not good enough grade - also that I needed a minimum of 300'.

Thoughts? Opinions? I was always under the thought that 3:1 scope on chain was sufficient and 5:1 in a blow ... this person said that for a boat this size 5:1 is minimum and 7:1 in a blow ... any thoughts on that??

Appreciate opinions
Whoever suggested you need 3/4" chain at a minimum doesn't know what he is talking about. Surface rust on your chain shouldn't diminish its strength to the point of worry, it will however leave a rust streak on your hull from the chain locker drain hole unless yours drains in to your bilge. What would be of more concern to me would be wear at the point where 2 chain links chafe against each other. Noticeable wear there = replace. As far as scope goes, the more the better so long as you have swing room in your anchorage re in relation to other users. I have been on the hook in an anchorage that had gusts swirling in off the top of the hillsides and all the boats were swinging in different directions, sometimes swinging toward each other.
Nightsky is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-04-2016, 05:08 PM   #45
Guru
 
TDunn's Avatar
 
City: Maine Coast
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Tortuga
Vessel Model: Nunes Brothers Raised Deck Cruiser
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 653
My understanding has always been that the weight of the chain is as if not more important than the working load. Weight is important because it increases catenary which keeps more chain on the bottom. More chain on the bottom is good because it takes energy to lift t so more on the bottom means more energy to lift the chain - i.e., better energy absorption by your chain. In addition if the load on the chain is parallel to the bottom it will tend to dig your anchor in. The steeper the angle between the chain and the bottom the more "up" load you have on the anchor and the more like it is to break the anchor out.

As far as chain working load goes, my mooring, which is rated for a 50' boat in winds up to 60 knots has only 1/2" ACCO long link mooring chain (WLL = 6,900 lbs) for the top chain. The bottom chain is 1-1/4" and is there for two reasons. First its weight (~15 lbs per foot) keeps it on the bottom in all but bad storms and second it is strong enough to lift my mooring stone (10,000 lbs) out of the mud and off the bottom. Actually in normal weather I am moored to my bottom chain (600 lbs) since normal loads aren't enough to pull it out of the mud and put any load on the granite mooring stone. My 36;, 20,000 lb boat has ridden out several 60 knot storms on that mooring. I do use two pennants (1" Yale polydyne) for storms.

Edited to add - While G4 chain is stronger than BBB, the G4 chain is also more brittle and thus more prone to fracturing rather than deforming if overloaded.
__________________

TDunn is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off





All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:04 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2006 - 2012