ben2go
Guru
I agree.
You're welcome.
That's the way we do it if we get a stuck anchor. It's not usually a problem on the sub 25' foots I was on mostly.
Had to cut my anchor free - how to prevent this in the future?
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I agree.
You're welcome.
That's the way we do it if we get a stuck anchor. It's not usually a problem on the sub 25' foots I was on mostly.
ben2go
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I've never done the left right thing. We always went around and pulled the opposite direction the anchor was set. It usually popped right out. The illustration was mainly to point out what and where the trip line is. Not really a how to.
RickyD
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I had this problem with my sailboat. I anchored my Danforth in about 60 feet at Catalina Island. After a great dive session I could not retrieve the anchor. Similarly I had a combination chain/rope gypsy. The rope portion was just jamming into the gypsy. So, I ran the rope portion back to a winch and cranked it tight every time the bow dropped into a wave. After quite a while, the anchor released and came up with a seriously bent fluke. Must have been caught in rocks.
BruceK
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Looks much like the way the sliding slot attachment in the Super Sarca (and perhaps others,? a Rocna model) is designed to operate.Trip line is red.
Martin J
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Hi Guys
Maybe you should invest in a Anchor retrieval ring. Been well offshore many times game fishing and anchored over underseas mountains etc in 30 Fathoms + . We slide the ring over the anchor rope, and steam over the anchor, the buoy and ring slide down the rope and the vessel pulls the anchor up to the surface, Then we recover the rope and anchor from the surface , rather than hauling it up from 180ft.
https://www.amazon.com/Shoreline-Ma...etrieval+ring&qid=1565308622&s=gateway&sr=8-1
Maybe you should invest in a Anchor retrieval ring. Been well offshore many times game fishing and anchored over underseas mountains etc in 30 Fathoms + . We slide the ring over the anchor rope, and steam over the anchor, the buoy and ring slide down the rope and the vessel pulls the anchor up to the surface, Then we recover the rope and anchor from the surface , rather than hauling it up from 180ft.
https://www.amazon.com/Shoreline-Ma...etrieval+ring&qid=1565308622&s=gateway&sr=8-1
wkearney99
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The guy was out late at night with guests on board. Lots of advice seems great in hindsight (or by not reading what was actually posted).
Calling a towing company, placing buoys, rigging lines to pull it, etc, are all great ideas... until you pay attention to the circumstances as described.
The chance of getting a speedy response from a tow boat after dark and after fireworks is pretty low. Certainly worth trying, of course, but I wouldn't bet on it. Next time, absolutely worth giving them a call; assuming you have an active tow policy.. you DO, right? Best money I ever spend each year is renewing my Boat US tow service. WAY better to have and not need!
Several brands of windlass have dual-duty wheels on them, ones that will pull both rope and chain around the same wheel. Others, like the Maxwell 2500 on mine, are chain only, but have a capstan on top designed to allow wrapping a rope around it to pull. The Power Winch docs indicate a wrong rope size is a potential reason for problems.
https://www.powerwinch.com/file?fileid=-1718968036
The also mention a replaceable 'rode-glide'. That being the molded piece that channels the rode from the back of the wheel down into the locker. Makes me wonder what the condition is of the one in your boat.
https://dg4wwk3l5e9df.cloudfront.ne...3/powerwinch-windlass-manual-plasteak-inc.pdf
Calling a towing company, placing buoys, rigging lines to pull it, etc, are all great ideas... until you pay attention to the circumstances as described.
The chance of getting a speedy response from a tow boat after dark and after fireworks is pretty low. Certainly worth trying, of course, but I wouldn't bet on it. Next time, absolutely worth giving them a call; assuming you have an active tow policy.. you DO, right? Best money I ever spend each year is renewing my Boat US tow service. WAY better to have and not need!
Several brands of windlass have dual-duty wheels on them, ones that will pull both rope and chain around the same wheel. Others, like the Maxwell 2500 on mine, are chain only, but have a capstan on top designed to allow wrapping a rope around it to pull. The Power Winch docs indicate a wrong rope size is a potential reason for problems.
https://www.powerwinch.com/file?fileid=-1718968036
The also mention a replaceable 'rode-glide'. That being the molded piece that channels the rode from the back of the wheel down into the locker. Makes me wonder what the condition is of the one in your boat.
https://dg4wwk3l5e9df.cloudfront.ne...3/powerwinch-windlass-manual-plasteak-inc.pdf
OldDan1943
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Had you considered diving to see what the anchor was snagged on?
I guess next time, before you come up, check the anchor.
diver dave
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We routinely snagged my anchor on both a freighter and an ocean dredge in 205 and 170’ of seawater respectfully. The last diver up had to strain and unhook the anchor on whatever steel member it found. When the current was ripping, it took two doing squats to get it free. Then, a wild sleigh ride on the free line. We sometimes covered a mile of bottom underwater during those rides. We had someone topsides, but mostly relied on an alpha flag to signal our out of control behavior.
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markpierce
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Trip line is red.
Wonder how that would work if tangled in a wire fence of a sunken island, caught on a cable or a tractor.
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Freeing a fouled anchor
Agree that most of this discussion has migrated from exactly what the OP was asking about.
I believe that as many have suggested the problem he was having was not just a fouled anchor but also compromised ground tackle. His windlass for whatever reason couldn't properly retrieve his three strand or brait rode correctly while it was under tension. Obviously he will have to look for a proper solution to that issue.
To recover an anchor that is not fouled with anything solid on the bottom most of the solutions suggested will work. Tightening up the rode on the down swing will exert a tremendous upward force on the shank and normally release any anchor buried deep. However IF said anchor is fouled on something solid on the bottom it will remain fouled unless one has a trip line deployed and pulls the anchor from the crown in such a way to release if from the fouling object.
Of course as already stated what to do if you've anchored without a trip line? The anchor ring with buoy as Martin suggested is one method one can use. The alternate method is to use the heavy chain shacked around the rode and lowered so that it rides down the rode and anchor shank and pulled in the opposite direction can free the anchor. I like the heavy chain and using the dinghy to pull from the opposite direction since I can be certain of the strength of both. The anchor rings I've seen seem a bit to fragile to my way of thinking. 2 feet of heavy studded chain a good shackle and stout 3/4 inch line rode should be up to any such task. If the dinghy can't generate enough pull then the line can be passed to a larger vessel if needed but in my experience this has always worked to free a fouled anchor.
RB Cooper
Agree that most of this discussion has migrated from exactly what the OP was asking about.
I believe that as many have suggested the problem he was having was not just a fouled anchor but also compromised ground tackle. His windlass for whatever reason couldn't properly retrieve his three strand or brait rode correctly while it was under tension. Obviously he will have to look for a proper solution to that issue.
To recover an anchor that is not fouled with anything solid on the bottom most of the solutions suggested will work. Tightening up the rode on the down swing will exert a tremendous upward force on the shank and normally release any anchor buried deep. However IF said anchor is fouled on something solid on the bottom it will remain fouled unless one has a trip line deployed and pulls the anchor from the crown in such a way to release if from the fouling object.
Of course as already stated what to do if you've anchored without a trip line? The anchor ring with buoy as Martin suggested is one method one can use. The alternate method is to use the heavy chain shacked around the rode and lowered so that it rides down the rode and anchor shank and pulled in the opposite direction can free the anchor. I like the heavy chain and using the dinghy to pull from the opposite direction since I can be certain of the strength of both. The anchor rings I've seen seem a bit to fragile to my way of thinking. 2 feet of heavy studded chain a good shackle and stout 3/4 inch line rode should be up to any such task. If the dinghy can't generate enough pull then the line can be passed to a larger vessel if needed but in my experience this has always worked to free a fouled anchor.
RB Cooper
I read Martin’s anchor retrieval ring and RBs 2 feet of heavy chain to retrieve the anchor.
Similar but more expensive than RBs suggestion was Ultra’s anchor retrieval ring, as a way of adding a trip line after the anchor is stuck.
Has anyone used these?
https://www.ultramarinewest.com/products/ultra-anchor-ring
Similar but more expensive than RBs suggestion was Ultra’s anchor retrieval ring, as a way of adding a trip line after the anchor is stuck.
Has anyone used these?
https://www.ultramarinewest.com/products/ultra-anchor-ring
FF
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Even a hyd windlass is not built strong enough to rip up a well stuck anchor..
If the boat has a deck mounted chain stopper it should be mounted better than the windlass.
A simple technique if there are folks on board is to have them all come up to the bow and take up every bit of slack, then ask them to go back to the stern .
This will only lift a few inches , but its pretty easy to repeat.
An assist can also frequently be had by asking a large power boat to go by at best wave making speed.
If the boat has a deck mounted chain stopper it should be mounted better than the windlass.
A simple technique if there are folks on board is to have them all come up to the bow and take up every bit of slack, then ask them to go back to the stern .
This will only lift a few inches , but its pretty easy to repeat.
An assist can also frequently be had by asking a large power boat to go by at best wave making speed.
Marco Flamingo
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A couple comments. First, I would probably take the rode off of the pulpit when trying to use brute force to get an anchor up. Even if tied off to the windlass post. The rocking of the boat could easily put 1,000 lbs of pressure on the pulpit/bow roller. Would you want five people standing out on the tip of your pulpit? Seems like asking for trouble. Better to lead through a side chock. If chain, it would required attaching line to the chain using some kind of rolling hitch in order to protect the cap rail. A boat rocks side to side more, in fact on most boats just shifting the crew back and forth can get the boat rocking side to side.
You don't need to be directly above the anchor. The closer to 90 degrees the better, but even 60 degrees is enough if the rode is tight. Any anchor repeatedly yanked at 60 degrees will work itself up (assuming it or the rode isn't snagged on something).
I often use an anchor tag line when solo and especially if I'm in a little out-of-the-way spot where I'm not likely to see another boat for a few days. The system doesn't have to be big or complex. Your anchor line needs to hold a multi-ton boat in wind and current. A tag line needs to skootch the anchor a few feet to clear it from the logging cable, wringer washing machine, etc. that it has snagged on. For a #35 anchor (which doesn't weigh #35 under water), #1,000 small cord is enough (although it can be hard on the fingers). A couple of doughnut floats stuck on a piece of dowel making a bobbin will hold enough line (see picture) and is easy to store. I generally anchor in less than 40 feet, so it doesn't take much line. I've heard that using a bigger float on a tag line leads to people attempting to use your float as a mooring ball. I haven't had that problem, but something to watch for.
The tag line bouy can also help diagnose a stuck anchor issue. If pulling on the tag line indicates the anchor is not exactly where your anchor rode is leading, it is the rode that is caught, not the anchor. Moving the anchor may help. It may even be possible to get the anchor to the surface, remove it, and only lose 30 feet of chain. You do have bolt cutters aboard, right?
You don't need to be directly above the anchor. The closer to 90 degrees the better, but even 60 degrees is enough if the rode is tight. Any anchor repeatedly yanked at 60 degrees will work itself up (assuming it or the rode isn't snagged on something).
I often use an anchor tag line when solo and especially if I'm in a little out-of-the-way spot where I'm not likely to see another boat for a few days. The system doesn't have to be big or complex. Your anchor line needs to hold a multi-ton boat in wind and current. A tag line needs to skootch the anchor a few feet to clear it from the logging cable, wringer washing machine, etc. that it has snagged on. For a #35 anchor (which doesn't weigh #35 under water), #1,000 small cord is enough (although it can be hard on the fingers). A couple of doughnut floats stuck on a piece of dowel making a bobbin will hold enough line (see picture) and is easy to store. I generally anchor in less than 40 feet, so it doesn't take much line. I've heard that using a bigger float on a tag line leads to people attempting to use your float as a mooring ball. I haven't had that problem, but something to watch for.
The tag line bouy can also help diagnose a stuck anchor issue. If pulling on the tag line indicates the anchor is not exactly where your anchor rode is leading, it is the rode that is caught, not the anchor. Moving the anchor may help. It may even be possible to get the anchor to the surface, remove it, and only lose 30 feet of chain. You do have bolt cutters aboard, right?
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