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READY2GO

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Joined
Jan 3, 2012
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521
Location
USA
Vessel Name
Walkabout
Vessel Make
1989 Sea Ray 380 Aft Cabin
I just purchased 200' of 5/16 G4 chain from West Marine. I bought a Wichard shackle to connect it to the anchor (pic below). The back of the pack says "Functional Limit 1520 KG/3344 LBS" and "Rupture Load 4300 KG/9460 LBS". The chain is rated at 3900 lbs Working Load Limit and 11,600 lbs breaking strength. So all is good until I get home and look more closely at the shackle. It is stamped in the metal WLL 860 KG which is only 1892 lbs.

Soooo I start looking for a shackle that will fit 5/16 chain with a working load close to that of the chain. So far no go. Now I feel like I wasted my money buying G4. What good is it to have a strong chain if the shackle isn't just as strong? Anybody know where I can get a stronger shackle? I called West Marine and the guy looked at every shackle in their catalog and nothing comes close. Even the Acco Anchor Swivel that they say is for use with High Test chain is only rated at 1500 lbs.

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Just buy a bigger shackle.
Go to a real marine place that sells stuff to working boats.
 
Just buy a bigger shackle.
Go to a real marine place that sells stuff to working boats.

3/8" is the largest pin that will fit through a 5/16 chain and that is what I bought.
 
Working load for a shackle is probably very conservative for rigging safety. See if you can find ultimate strength or failure load. Industrial rigging bits usually identify in terms like that. If this stuff is exciting, a rigging company can test it for you for minimal cost.
 
Not a new issue. If you can find a supplier for connector to match your chain please post it.
 
My understanding is that shackles are, by necessity, bi-directionally rated, which will obviously be a lower rating than a straight pull (as used with an anchor).
 
How long is the net opening in the chain? All you need to be able to do is fit the end of the shackle through (it's .9 inch on the alloy Crosby) ; the pin goes through the anchor and the bow through the chain.

Or if you are if that doesn't work for you, try a Dyneema soft shackle(s)
 
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The latest Practical Sailer discusses this very problem in detail.

Paul
 
You guys have created the problem of yourselves by over-thinking it all, and reading too much fine print. When do you last break and anchor chain or shackle..? Ok, Marin might come up with an example, but by and large, really...how common is it..? I've never heard of it. Just get the biggest sucker that fits through the hole in the chain, and don't bother about what the freaking breaking strain is. Just sleep tight. I'm sorry, you US types are sooooo anal...really... :D :hide:

PS. I meant in the Freudian sense, of course...although having looked at the toilet paper thread...I dunno...
 
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Crosby Shackles. Excellent product. I think you might need to look up the difference between WLL and breaking load, too, so you are more comfortable.
 
Chain is usually sold by the drum , and each end will have an oversized ling on the end to solve your problem.

Find a real chain supplier , not a retail outlet.
 
I have to go with Pete on this one. In my younger days, I had a heavy towing and rigging company. Broke cable, chain, hooks and even blocks, but never saw a shackle break that was tight, pinned and properly sized for the chain. Miami Cordage has both the cheaper stuff and the good stuff in stock. Ask for Canadian.
 
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You guys have created the problem of yourselves by over-thinking it all, and reading too much fine print. When do you last break and anchor chain or shackle..? Ok, Marin might come up with an example, but by and large, really...how common is it..? I've never heard of it. Just get the biggest sucker that fits through the hole in the chain, and don't bother about what the freaking breaking strain is. Just sleep tight. I'm sorry, you US types are sooooo anal...really... :D :hide:

PS. I meant in the Freudian sense, of course...although having looked at the toilet paper thread...I dunno...

Well Peter hopefully you are not serious. Buying a shackle of the same strength as the chain that it connects is not anal it is good engineering. If good engineering is anal then I confess my goal is to be anal. LOL

Quote from HH
"I have to go with Pete on this one. In my younger days, I had a heavy towing and rigging company. Broke cable, chain, hooks and even blocks, but never saw a shackle break that was tight, pinned and properly sized for the chain. Miami Cordage has both the cheaper stuff and the good stuff in stock. Ask for Canadian."



Larry, that is exactly what I am attempting to do.

The titanium shackle listed earlier is strong enough but it is not large enough to fit my anchor, a #7 Super Sarca, the shank is a little over 3/4" thick. The jaw on the largest titanium shackle is a little under 3/4".

Now looking at Crosby shackles. The strengths look good, but I will have to use two because if I get one big enough to fit over the shank of the anchor then it is to big to fit the chain. Frustrating as I would like to just use one shackle. I guess if I was using a smaller anchor or a larger chain it would not be as much of an issue.
 
I'm sorry, you US types are sooooo anal...really... :D :hide:

PS. I meant in the Freudian sense, of course...although having looked at the toilet paper thread...I dunno...
Very funny! (And TRUE!)
 
The inside width for 5/16 G4 chain is a half inch, so a 7/16 pin will fit fine; I wonder what the OP really bought.

healhustler is spot on about Miami Cordage, great place for your line and chain and accessories needs.
 
When do you last break and anchor chain or shackle..? Ok, Marin might come up with an example....

The only instance I've ever read about is in Earl Hinz's book on anchoring and mooring (I believe). In talking about the catenary in chain he used a photo of a Coast Guard vessel at anchor trying to stay off a lee shore in a very nasty storm or hurricane. The chain was bar tight and eventually broke. But I don't remember if the chain itself broke or something in the deck hardware broke or if the story didn't even say.

But unless an anchor is caught on something unyielding on the bottom I suspect it will drag or simply come out under the pressure of a recreational cruiser before the anchor shackle broke even if the shackle is rated lower than the chain.
 
Galvanized shackles are stronger than Stainless. The one in the picture looks SS. For higher working load you have to go the galvanized.
 
Titanium shackles? Not the exotic metal it was, I have 2 titanium cased watches and there are high end titanium bicycles.
Ronstan, in Australia, make good quality ss shackles with high ratings. I bought one as the slider for the shank of my Sarca. I believe Ronstan is available in the US; before the AU$ tanked a friend bought Ronstan parts shipping incl cheaper than he could here.
 
If you are using a Crosby shackle it will be built on either a 5 or a 6 to one safety factor. In 40 years of working with cranes I have seen a grossly overloaded Crosby bend but never seen one break.
David
 
You guys have created the problem of yourselves by over-thinking it all, and reading too much fine print. When do you last break and anchor chain or shackle..? Ok, Marin might come up with an example, but by and large, really...how common is it..? I've never heard of it. Just get the biggest sucker that fits through the hole in the chain, and don't bother about what the freaking breaking strain is. Just sleep tight. I'm sorry, you US types are sooooo anal...really... :D :hide:

PS. I meant in the Freudian sense, of course...although having looked at the toilet paper thread...I dunno...

:thumb:
 
Thanks BruceK for the tip on Ronstan.


We have a winner. Ronstan RF637 exceeds the ratings of G4 chain, has a jaw wide enough to fit my Sarca anchor and the pin is 3/8" so it fits easily through the 5/16" chain. I can now attach the anchor with only one shackle which is what I wanted to do. The less failure points the better.
 

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