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Old 04-01-2014, 07:05 AM   #21
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Thanks for all the inputs so far. Yesterday I removed the CQR 22KG, I know it is too small. I installed the Delta 45 just as a test. It does not sit as well on our anchor roller but I am only using it as a test. Then I will try the Fortress FX37, (again too small but she has held us in everything so far) with the all chain rode and see how it does. At least that way I will have some test cases before I buy. I tell you after lifting even the small anchors I am leaning more toward the Fortrest if it will set well and work in the mud as well as the sand with the all chain rode. I will let you know how the testing goes. Thanks again and any other ideas are always welcome....
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Old 04-01-2014, 07:24 AM   #22
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One other question. The Delta always comes out of the water backwards and I need to manually turn it. Would a swivle fix this?
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Old 04-01-2014, 07:46 AM   #23
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If I were the OP I would walk the docks in my area and see what other boaters are using for anchors. Brand and size. I would talk to as many of them as possible and see how their anchors are working for them.
There is just one problem with that. Even today, here in Queensland, where the new generation anchors are all available, if I walk the docks, I am still amazed at how many boats are still equipped with CQR types. Especially in light of my own experience, and comments like this below from Cafesport…

I was a big CQR fan in the 80's. Anchored many a time in big winds and it saved my bacon. It wasn't easy to get it to bite but when done right we slept well. Fast forward 30 plus years I actually gave away our 315 lb stainless cqr last year. As a diver and having actually watched our anchors set, I'm done with CQRs. Last weekend I watched three boats with cqrs try to anchor upstream of our boat. Not a single one managed to get it to bite. One tried three times. Bottom line the new school anchors are a huge improvement. Do your own research and give one a try. They are that much better.

On reflection, I believe there are several reasons for this. One is simply that because CQRs are a shape that fits well on modern boat bows, and are fairly inexpensive, they are the ones sold with the boat. That, and the fact so many hardly ever get seriously challenged by the conditions in the very sheltered parts of our bay if they ever do anchor out, and I suspect there are many who mostly just anchor for lunch on day outings, so they are never given cause to doubt their anchor choice…until one day it fails them, that is...
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Old 04-01-2014, 07:56 AM   #24
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If my current anchor has never failed to set or hold, how can anything be "much better"?
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Old 04-01-2014, 08:09 AM   #25
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Well... It was fun while it lasted. Let the anchor thread meltdown begin! ;-)
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Old 04-01-2014, 08:13 AM   #26
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Well, with apologies for pinching a Marinism, Ron, read my last sentence again. With a bit of luck, your anchor never will meet its match. What do you use, just for the record..?
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Old 04-01-2014, 08:24 AM   #27
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Well back to the question.......... Will a swivle fix the problem with the delta wanting to come up backwards which causes me to go back down to the deck and turn it while coming up with the windlass for the last couple of feet?
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Old 04-01-2014, 08:25 AM   #28
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Well, with apologies for pinching a Marinism, Ron, read my last sentence again. With a bit of luck, your anchor never will meet its match. What do you use, just for the record..?
A 33 lb Lewmar "claw". The boat came with a smaller no-name claw and while it never failed me either I thought it would be good to upsize before my month long cruise two years ago. The 33 lb model is the biggest that would fit my boat without modification.

Obviously, different boats and different conditions require different anchors but this one has worked well for me on the AICW and waters around Charleston, SC. We do deal with reversing tidal currents here so good ground tackle and good technique are important.
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Old 04-01-2014, 08:38 AM   #29
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My 35 lb Delta has worked well in SW FL, except one time in mud. I have 50' chain and 150 ft of rode. The one time it did not hold in mud was when I was doing some windlass maintenance and had no chain.
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Old 04-01-2014, 08:45 AM   #30
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Defender came to us one week with a Defender 1st special on swivels. I told them that we wouldn't promote a swivel in any way because I consider them too dangerous for use in most implementations. Just Google "swivel failure" for all the discussion you'd ever need about the subject.
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Old 04-01-2014, 08:50 AM   #31
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If swivle is not the answer then what do I need to do to get the anchor to come up with the point facing the boat?
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Old 04-01-2014, 08:52 AM   #32
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Well back to the question.......... Will a swivle fix the problem with the delta wanting to come up backwards which causes me to go back down to the deck and turn it while coming up with the windlass for the last couple of feet?
Yes and no. A swivel will release the 1/2 turn you put in your chain when you secured it to the new delta. It will also introduce a new pint of failure to your anchor system. Just say no to swivels and learn to release 1/2 turns from the roller when they happen. Once you get the hockles out you should be good for a while.

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Old 04-01-2014, 08:58 AM   #33
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Why is it unacceptable to have to twist the chain by hand when the anchor breaks the water in order to have it line up properly?
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Old 04-01-2014, 09:17 AM   #34
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Well back to the question.......... Will a swivle fix the problem with the delta wanting to come up backwards which causes me to go back down to the deck and turn it while coming up with the windlass for the last couple of feet?
I have a swivel, and can retrieve my Delta with not having to turn it. It fits perfectly on the bow roller. It usually comes up clean, but in sticky clay sometimes have to hose it off.
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Old 04-01-2014, 09:54 AM   #35
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"Why is it unacceptable to have to twist the chain by hand when the anchor breaks the water in order to have it line up properly?"

I often do this by myself, and need to be at the helm in tight anchorages and also with a 5800 lbs boat I need to power up to the anchor. Hard to be two places at one time. I can and have pull it up to break water and just leave it hang till I get clear of the other boats, shallows etc, but if the windlass ever let loose at that point it could cause a big issue... If it can't be solved I will do it the way I have in the past.
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Old 04-01-2014, 10:05 AM   #36
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I can and have pull it up to break water and just leave it hang till I get clear of the other boats, shallows etc, but if the windlass ever let loose at that point it could cause a big issue... If it can't be solved I will do it the way I have in the past.
I'm not sure what some of that specifically means - it could be read in different ways. I would hope that no trawler powers against anchor chain/anchor set with just a windlass making contact with the chain. That's a pretty sure recipe to break the windlass out and watch it plop over the bow with electrical wires dangling behind. You should always have some way to lock the rode ahead of the windlass and only use that to pull out an anchor. This becomes even more critical when using one of the newer types of anchors. In my case, my 2,500 lb windlass won't break my 121 lb Rocna out of a well-penetrated set without using the mass of the trawler itself to pull it out. I'm only ever able to pop the anchor loose with the windlass about 20% of the time and I'm always surprised when it happens.
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Old 04-01-2014, 10:08 AM   #37
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I am not sure it's the design of the anchors as much as the size of them vs your displacement/windage. Isn't your displacement over 55000 lbs? A 45 lb anchor seems small. I would up the size significantly.
What he said
I am thinking something in the 80- 90 pound range would be what you need
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Old 04-01-2014, 10:15 AM   #38
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Thanks for all the inputs so far. Yesterday I removed the CQR 22KG, I know it is too small. I installed the Delta 45 just as a test. It does not sit as well on our anchor roller but I am only using it as a test. Then I will try the Fortress FX37, (again too small but she has held us in everything so far) with the all chain rode and see how it does. At least that way I will have some test cases before I buy. I tell you after lifting even the small anchors I am leaning more toward the Fortrest if it will set well and work in the mud as well as the sand with the all chain rode. I will let you know how the testing goes. Thanks again and any other ideas are always welcome....
the problem I have had with fluke style anchors is when the tide reverses they can pull out, often times they do not reset and they can get tangled on the rode. this has been my experience your experiences may vary.
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Old 04-01-2014, 10:35 AM   #39
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Rogerh, when your anchor comes up facing the wrong way, doesn't it just flop over when the shank gets on the roller? Mine comes up pointing all kind of ways but once on the roller it turns so that the point is facing the bow and the anchor hangs nicely on the roller just as it should.

Like you, I almost never go forward when dealing with the anchor. I love to sit up on my bridge and push a button to raise or lower the anchor.

Be sure to let us know how your test of the Delta and Fortress goes.
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Old 04-01-2014, 10:55 AM   #40
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nope, don't power against the windlass. Power the boat up to the anchor while I am running the windlass is what I do to make the load easier on the windlass. Understand that you can't use the power of the engines to break loose an anchor without the anchor being secured to something other than the windlass. The whole issue with the turn of the anchor is doing it by myself.
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