Connecting Chain Links
- Thread starter Taras
- Start date
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Simi 60
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Did think of that but an expensive process.
Just getting our chain off the boat is a drama in itself
771 lbs of chain takes some effort to get off, onto a truck and then off to be welded and then 1400lbs back.
Then, we have a long length of chain that only ever has the last 150ft or so ever seeing wear.
I'd rather the joiners with spectra backup as then I can do end for end swaps 4 times before needing total regalv or better still be able to send one off to get done while still having one to anchor with.
ben2go
Guru
Here's a novel idea based off ideas already mentioned. Clean the rusty section of chain with a wire brush, wash it well, treat it with a rust converter, and coat it with galvanizing spray. Then reinstall with the fresh treated end on the anchor locker side.
Simi 60
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I anchor in 20 ft of water in home waters and currently carry about 300ft of chain.
Areas where we intend cruising often have 80 to 100 ft depths so a second length would be good.
Lepke
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Ship chain is usually spliced in several places. I haven't heard of a modern ship anchor chain parting. I've used most common chain connectors most of my life, including commercially. Never had a connector fail.
It's not easy to weld chain and meet standards in strength and hardness. The weld has to go completely through the link, and not just around the edges. In most states, trailer chains must be bolted to the trailer, not welded.
It's not easy to weld chain and meet standards in strength and hardness. The weld has to go completely through the link, and not just around the edges. In most states, trailer chains must be bolted to the trailer, not welded.
kchace
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My anchor chain is G4. Most of the joining links I've seen are equal to BBB or such. But Practical Sailor had an article about chain connectors and among others they mentioned was the double clevis link which usually goes through the gypsy and can be purchased as a grade 70. I haven't used one yet but I keep a couple on the boat.
https://www.e-rigging.com/one-fourth-five-sixteenths-inch-Grade-70-Twin-Clevis-Link
Ken
https://www.e-rigging.com/one-fourth-five-sixteenths-inch-Grade-70-Twin-Clevis-Link
Ken
Gray Dog
Veteran Member
Joining Chain Links
Don't cut the chain. In my opinion you are just asking for trouble. Might be real or might be imagined. I looked at every option for joining 5/16" BBB lengths and settled on a peening link. It hasn't failed yet but I worry about it every time I deploy the anchor.
My main length of chain is 100' and the secondary is 50'. I usually do not deploy over 100' so the peened link does not come into play unless a storm comes up and I have to let out more chain. The link traveled over the gypsy just fine.
For BBB chain the screw on type links will not fit unless you choose a low wire diameter that will be the weakest point. Regular shackles probably will not pass through the gypsy. Double clevis links will work but there is a cotter pin issue in each end and I didn't want the scratching that might occur.
As a side issue frequently when peening, galvanized coating will crack and become a rusty link in an otherwise good chain. Welding will work if you can transport the chain without crazy effort or if you can get a welder to come on site. Often welding weakens the link and you must take that into consideration.
The last thing I did before buying a new 150' length of chain was use a soft shackle to surround the peened link as a belt and suspenders approach. I would have to lift the soft shackle over the gypsy.
Don't cut the chain. In my opinion you are just asking for trouble. Might be real or might be imagined. I looked at every option for joining 5/16" BBB lengths and settled on a peening link. It hasn't failed yet but I worry about it every time I deploy the anchor.
My main length of chain is 100' and the secondary is 50'. I usually do not deploy over 100' so the peened link does not come into play unless a storm comes up and I have to let out more chain. The link traveled over the gypsy just fine.
For BBB chain the screw on type links will not fit unless you choose a low wire diameter that will be the weakest point. Regular shackles probably will not pass through the gypsy. Double clevis links will work but there is a cotter pin issue in each end and I didn't want the scratching that might occur.
As a side issue frequently when peening, galvanized coating will crack and become a rusty link in an otherwise good chain. Welding will work if you can transport the chain without crazy effort or if you can get a welder to come on site. Often welding weakens the link and you must take that into consideration.
The last thing I did before buying a new 150' length of chain was use a soft shackle to surround the peened link as a belt and suspenders approach. I would have to lift the soft shackle over the gypsy.
rgano
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Swapping ends of the anchor chain at regular intervals is a time-honored practice and something we practiced in the Navy where a ship's beefy chain never got seriously corroded anyway. For smaller diameter chains like those being discussed here, corrosion may degrade strength faster than a ship's chain. So now here you are in a serious situation in which you felt it necessary to increase your scope to the point the old corroded part is now back in use. Does this make you think that the swapping idea was so great an idea?
Simi 60
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That's where we were at with our last lot of chain
Have not end for ended our new lot yet but after 1 year there are signs of rust colouring on the end we are using , but anchor in sand and she comes up all clean again and at least I know the unused section in the locker is as new.
