Chesapeake Anchor Holding Power Test

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Interestingly enough some are convinced that anchors need to "settle"...meaning lay on the bottom for a bit of time that seems to be described anywhere from 5-60 minutes before any or even IF any rearward thrust is applied.

Normal anchoring usually involves a series of tugs and sways due to the nature of a boat snugging and sailing with wind and current that may assist some anchors in burying in some bottom conditions.

I may be wrong or under read...but I don't think I have read an anchor test that used "unsteady" or "jerky pulls" or that's allowed an anchor to settle.

I wonder if those "real world" quirks would change any of the tests that didn't use them? Of course even in the real world "quirks" can or may not exist in every situation.
 
Interestingly enough some are convinced that anchors need to "settle"...meaning lay on the bottom for a bit of time that seems to be described anywhere from 5-60 minutes before any or even IF any rearward thrust is applied.

Normal anchoring usually involves a series of tugs and sways due to the nature of a boat snugging and sailing with wind and current that may assist some anchors in burying in some bottom conditions.

I may be wrong or under read...but I don't think I have read an anchor test that used "unsteady" or "jerky pulls" or that's allowed an anchor to settle.

I wonder if those "real world" quirks would change any of the tests that didn't use them? Of course even in the real world "quirks" can or may not exist in every situation.
Excellent point. Real world comparisons that simulate how an anchor is actually used are quite tough - which is why I respect Anchor Right's testing method. It at least presents a true apples to apples comparison of anchors performing under one set of circumstances. Brian has been forthright in pointing to the potential weakness of the Fortress in starting to penetrate in harder or grassier bottoms. That is less important when the Fortress is carried as a storm or backup anchor. Under storm conditions, you spend the time you need to in order to ensure you got the Fortress headed in the right direction. If so, you'll have stupendous holding power.
 
Interestingly enough some are convinced that anchors need to "settle"...meaning lay on the bottom for a bit of time that seems to be described anywhere from 5-60 minutes before any or even IF any rearward thrust is applied.

Normal anchoring usually involves a series of tugs and sways due to the nature of a boat snugging and sailing with wind and current that may assist some anchors in burying in some bottom conditions.

I may be wrong or under read...but I don't think I have read an anchor test that used "unsteady" or "jerky pulls" or that's allowed an anchor to settle.

I wonder if those "real world" quirks would change any of the tests that didn't use them? Of course even in the real world "quirks" can or may not exist in every situation.

Our late company founder used to say that "When anchoring, time is your friend" and he was certainly a proponent of setting an anchor slowly. Allowing an anchor to soak, so to speak, and the bottom to heal around it can definitely be a factor in its performance.

While the winch aboard the Rachel Carson provided a steady consistent pull at a pre-set rate of speed, the boat itself was certainly not completely stationary, as the waterjets and thrusters from the engaged DP system were constantly firing to keep the boat in its set GPS position.

This jerking was noted as waves and spikes on the Running Line Tensiometer (RLT) gauges and the accompanying charts, and it was typically greater with the anchors that were providing the higher loads, and in turn, a more difficult challenge to the DP system.

Brian
 
For 20 years in mid to latter portion of 21st Century (before all the fancy push button winch systems became the rave! – LOL)

Exclusively using good-sized Danforth anchors with 20 +/- feet chain and appropriate circumference manila (in the early years) and then nylon rode, throughout NY to Maine in hundreds of locations; the following was our very successful anchor set technique:

1. With boat usually directed into wind and/or against or with the current (depending on their combined directions/ferocity), to attain appropriate position mix of the two that enabled necessary reverse movement in water-mass by prop-power or wind so that land-mass was being backed over (away from)… usually at near-idle engine rpm… drop anchor straight down by hand so flukes are pointed toward bow of boat
2. When anchor reaches bottom (you can tell by hand feeling on rode) signal Captain to slightly increase backing speed over land while playing out more line but always keeping slight tension on line so it never becomes fully relaxed/slack
3. After laying out ample line to have attained approx. 7 to 1 scope (you could tell by eye after years of hand anchor setting) affix line to cleat. Signal Captain to slightly increase reverse draw on anchor line to set anchor. Continue reverse draw until boat stops moving over ground-mass. Then somewhat increase reverse power until satisfied anchor is well set into bottom.
4. Depending on closeness to other boats we’d either leave the 7 to 1 scope or shorten a bit to about 5 to 1 so boat swing was not going to interfere with other boats.

I can only recall a couple times we needed to haul anchor and retry setting because it simply would not set; I believe mud one time and another time weeds were the reasons. We moved to different locations in general area. Only lost one anchor to fouling with a cable (or something?? - in Block Island’s big harbor); after hours of tries to free it we cut her lose! Dad was bummed!! I also recall two times we rode out hurricanes in harbors while on the hook (anchored with a Danforth). In neither storm did our Danforth fail us… however, in both storms we spent hours with engines running and at times somewhat pushing into the heaviest of gusts for assistance to help anchor not break lose.

To this day I release and retrieve anchors by hand. I enjoy having “the feel of the deal” in my hands and close-up visuals for my eyes… so I can best ascertain just what is going on!

Happy Hooking Daze! - Art :D

PS: I look forward to the day when I test an FX-23 in SF Delta mud; while I have it set at its 45 degree flukes to shank angle. As I've mentioned previously, it seems to me by research, listening to others' accounts, and holding a Fortress in my hands... I believe Fortress anchors are Danforth anchors on steroids! Lightweight to handle too!!
 
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Peter,
The Super Sarca has a roll bar but I tend to not think of it so much as a roll bar anchor. The SS stands by itself unique in having a much smaller dia "bar" and larger radius of the "hoop". The compression factor between the bar/hoop and the fluke is much much less an element of the design that I personally don't lump it together w the typical roll bar anchors.

And relative to the Fortress test if the SS was in attendance it probably would have not suffered from any roll bar irregularities that have been talked about. I think the SS functions almost entirely as a stand up anchor that only assumes any other attitude for brief moments.

And I agree w Brian that the setting procedure used should have allowed any anchor to set properly. If a roll bar anchor landed up side down and clogged it's roll bar preventing it from setting I'd consider it a fault in the design and the test results valid for judging anchor performance. This isn't what I hold against the roll bar design ... just another weakness of the concept. But not all roll bar anchors are the same in this regard. By the way .. the way I deploy an anchor the roll bar anchor would not/could not land up side down. But most skippers basically just drop anchor and pull back thinking there's nothing more to it. So if an anchor is sold indiscriminately to everybody it should perform well the way most people use the product. So anchor tests should be performed like a typical skipper would generally go about anchoring. So in that regard the Fortress test was more a test of the potential of the anchor than an indication of how well it would do w the average boater. Could be called a test fault but I'd rather know about how well the anchor itself can do.

When asked for an anchor recommendation I usually recommend the Supreme and of course it's a roll bar anchor so it's obvious I'm not 100% against the roll bar anchor. My recommendation is not so much because of it's holding power (but it is probably only second to two other anchors in that that regard) but because it seems to be able to perform very well to extremely well in almost every conceivable situation. It seems to come closer to excellent performance in all conditions than any other anchor I can think of. But like all other anchors it can fail.

And here's an interesting fact. I have a Manson Supreme and don't often use it. I'm usually too busy playing/experimenting w other anchors. I guess I'm just curious like the cat.

Art I see your post now and must say that's almost exactly how I set Willy's anchors. I lay the anchor down as we gently back. The big difference is that I use shorter scope. Usually about 3-1 and almost never over 5-1.
 
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Peter,

Art I see your post now and must say that's almost exactly how I set Willy's anchors. I lay the anchor down as we gently back. The big difference is that I use shorter scope. Usually about 3-1 and almost never over 5-1.

Hey Eric!

You and several others on TF seem pretty well versed in using different anchor designs and for testing their capabilities. I am NOT; and, don't care to spend the capital or time to become so! I'll take you all at your word regarding your success and/or failures with different anchor designs.

I do wonder why you keep anchor scope so minimal. Far as I know (general law of physics) the more scope the better the angle for an anchor's "flukes or plow" to dig into bottom. Isn't 5 to 1 scope the standard recommendation??

The only two anchor designs I ever used in my entire life are the antiquated opposite side fluke "Navy" anchor (used twice in my life on a fishing boat) and Danforth design anchors - used thousands of times by me on pleasure craft. Reason for using Danforth design anchors - cause they work very well!

Two principals I adhere to:
1. KISS
2. If it tain't broke - Don't fix it!

Cheers! - Art
 
The very best anchor according to a 20 plus year charter company owner in the Sea of Cortez, where chubasco's pop up with no warning blowing most anchored boats to shore, is the Bulwagga anchor.

This is the ugliest anchor I have ever seen. It sets faster than any and holds better. It's like a mooring block. The owner has seen all other anchors drag in the chubasco blows. Every one.

I think we can end the discussion. :banghead:

Bulwagga Anchors

Give it a look. It's ugly, you won't buy it, you'll find fault with it but it's the best, period.
 
The very best anchor according to a 20 plus year charter company owner in the Sea of Cortez, where chubasco's pop up with no warning blowing most anchored boats to shore, is the Bulwagga anchor.

This is the ugliest anchor I have ever seen. It sets faster than any and holds better. It's like a mooring block. The owner has seen all other anchors drag in the chubasco blows. Every one.

I think we can end the discussion. :banghead:

Bulwagga Anchors

Give it a look. It's ugly, you won't buy it, you'll find fault with it but it's the best, period.

Bullwagga anchor design seems good and works well into my engineering mind for accomplishing needs apparent considering different bottom conditions. Couldn't get videos to play that are in the link and didn't locate other video from short net search. You know of an active video.

I'm not one to worry about anchor looks! If it works best - it works best - Period!
 
Capthead and Art,
I have two anchor tests that rank the Bulwagga anchor highly (#2 out of 17 anchors) and about average. Here's a quote;

Weird creation, the triple fluke configuration looks like a sculpture for the Turner Prize. It looks painfully awkward to stow and can’t be taken apart. Yet, whichever way it falls, two flukes dig in. It certainly set quickly, holding at 5:1 scope with a peak resistance of around 2500lb averaging over 2000lb. But at 3:1 scope, performance fell off dramatically.

I pay no anchor much attention that fails at 3-1 scope. Many to most say they anchor at 5-1 to 7-1 but in reality I think many or most actually come closer to 3-1. In Alaska it was small anchorages and here it's crowded anchorages. People say they anchor at about 6-1 but I don't see how they can find the room for it. Anchoring close together safely is only possible if everyone has the same type of rode and uses the same scope. Then everyone swings together and dos'nt get too close. But that's utopia and almost never comes to pass. And most don't take tide seriously into consideration, both the high and low and I think also that most more or less dismiss bow height as being insignificant.

The Bullwagga does look like a really good anchor at 5-1. It has a trip line substitute and it may even mount on a bow w two flukes straddling the bow and one vertical. I'm impressed but w/o 3-1 performance I'm not interested. I kinda like it though probably because it's unusual.
 
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Capthead and Art,

The Bullwagga does look like a really good anchor at 5-1. It has a trip line substitute and it may even mount on a bow w two flukes straddling the bow and one vertical. I'm impressed but w/o 3-1 performance I'm not interested. I kinda like it though probably because it's unusual.

Now... that's the Eric we've grown to know and respect! :D
 
A factor illustrated by the Fortress tests was that though all anchors were tested with exactly the same test regime and were each tested a number of times each design performed differently to other anchors of 'supposedly' a similar design.

The 3 'roll bar' anchors were completely different, the Spade/Ultra lookalike anchors were completely different, the 2 convex anchors completely different and the 2 fluke anchors at 32 degrees, both successful - but completely different.

People have tended to say the Ultra is a copy of the Spade (and I would have gone along with that) - but they perform so differently in this test any similarities do not show through in soft mud. Equally the roll bar anchors were also completely different, one was a disaster, one was less so and one would give you a totally false sense of security. Same with the CQR/Delta both convex - but how could you classify them together (except that neither are much use in soft mud). The Claw and Boss, different again and all the concave anchors, lumped together - all different to each other.

So those who categorise all convex anchors as being the 'same' know little about anchor performance, in the same way we can now differentiate concave roll bar anchors - they have the same characteristics to a greater or lessor extent but all perform differently.

Now we need Brian to do the same tests in soft sand then hard sand, forget corporate profits, spend money on testing! It might be that a weakness in an ability to perform in soft mud is similar in soft sand but these same 'poor' design characteristics allow that same anchor to shine in hard sand (as most anchors seems to at least work in harder substrates). Possibly all underlining - anchors are a compromise, no one design will suit all seabeds - so being prudent, do not put all your anchoring ability into one design of anchor.


Peter, I think your categorising the Super SARCA alongside the Rocna, Supreme and Mantus is the first time I have seen such a grouping. Peter Smith will be having a fit! Apart from other differences the SS has a mini fluke between roll bar and shank that, I believe, stops the anchor settling into soft seabeds and allows it to roll over. I think this secondary fluke is patented (not that this would stop anyone using something similar.) Maybe Rex can tell us more.
 
GOOD OBSERVATION bangi,
If everyone would make such observations we could really get something out of this test. And yes bangi more tests (even so so tests) would be great but the motivation money just isn't there. Unless you could tap the government in the name of public safety. They don't sell enough magazines or anchors to finance more anchor tests than what we've been accustomed to.

And most boaters have and keep the anchor that came w the boat. I'll bet even few TF members have changed anchors as a result of our anchor talk. But I'm very analytical and enjoy talking and analyzing the designs so full speed ahead as far as I'm concerned.

Bangi it sure would be nice to know what city you live in and what boat you have. And no boat is fine.
 
Again ....I'm A LOT LESS LIKELY to worry about test results as I am about real world feed back from known world class cruisers as to the effectiveness of certain anchors.

If this test showed the ABC anchor to never hold under any circumstance at any time...but was used often by regular cruisers who used it under a variety of circumstances...I would be a lot more likely to believe the users than the testers,

That said...go back to the first 2 pages ....Some here knew up front what this test and others would probably produce in terms of results. So there's not much use in "theoreticals" as not much new has been revealed in this test or most of the other tests to people who have been using a variety of anchors for decades.
 
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I pay pretty close attention to anchors and at least in my marina, there are more Ultras on boats than Rocnas, more Rocnas than Supremes, and more Claw/Bruce than all of the above.

Closest thing to a "new generation" anchor at our dock:

img_266478_0_9de0019bcc3e8a58d1c8e39888a71113.jpg


Here, the most common dual combination is claw and plow.
 
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Some of you may remember Phil Rosch from the T&T days. Phil probably anchored out more nights than any four or five average TF members combined, all up and down the east coast and all over the Bahamas. Had two CQRs (!!!) on his pulpit, and an Ideal dual horizontal windlass with a vertical capstan to boot, all chain rodes. . Here was Phil's official anchoring advice "power down your anchor, pay out your scope, pour yourself a drink, enjoy your drink, come back and set your anchor" that was the long version. He once told me he maybe used the second anchor twice.
 
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Mark I'm quite sure that top pic is of a Bugel anchor.
 
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Here's a freebie for you anchor designers. Think storm anchor here...

Consider incorporating a shear device that holds the flukes at a certain angle to imbed the flukes, but when the load increases, the shear device breaks and allows the flukes to rotate to a greater angle, almost perpendicular to the shank.

You'd probably what a retrieval line on this one to pull it out...
 
Chesapeake mud? I'm putting my money on the Danforth. During Irene I didn't even come close to budging.

This was my original two cents. I didn't mention Hurricane Sandy:) Danforth, never leave home (port) without one:socool:
 
Haha I've thought of variable fluke angle devices. How-about a push button remote control of hydraulic and electrical hardware to always have the appropriate fluke angle.

Another way to look at it would be to consider why one wouldn't have the 45 degree fluke angle as standard. The anchor would probably jack itself up in the water and fail to set. There are very heavy anchors that do have a fixed wider angle (45 degrees) whereas the weight forces the fluke down so setting takes place. Lot's of variables.

But a simple spring loaded fluke that would keep the angle low until it buried itself and then sufficient force widened the fluke angle to the optimum soft bottom angle. But you'd be getting the wide angle in hard bottoms too. And of course that would'nt fly very well.

I don't see anything but fixed flukes in the future.

Mark I have three.
 
This was my original two cents. I didn't mention Hurricane Sandy:) Danforth, never leave home (port) without one:socool:

AGREED!

If I may add: I've "tested" (consistently used) Danforth anchors all decades of my boating life... (as you do too) I feel extremely secure in Danforth's setting and holding ability. I plan to purchase a Fortress FX-23 and test it too. Due to its 45 degree shank to fluke angle I believe the FX should set easier/quicker, dig deeper, and hold stronger than a similar sized Danforth with its 33 degree angle - in mud that is.

For setting and holding, the extra Danforth weight (double) as compared to FX-23 is a factor. But, the FX light weight for handling is appreciated and the 45 degree FX angle is the big deal I see for better accomplishing setting and holding in mud conditions.

Reason I am doing as stated above is because for last six years and for foreseeable future we anchor in very muddy bottom areas only, i.e. SF Bay Delta Sloughs and Delta's small island bays.

Plan to report my FX-23 mud-anchor findings when completed... don't hold your breath though. I'm in no rush... with plenty of various sized Danforth design anchors already on our Tollycraft. Four are now aboard... and, just sold an original old-school 30 lb Danforth.

Happy setting/holding/pulling Daze - Art :speed boat:
 
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Djbangi Wrote;

Peter, I think your categorizing the Super SARCA alongside the Rocna, Supreme and Mantus is the first time I have seen such a grouping. Peter Smith will be having a fit! Apart from other differences the SS has a mini fluke between roll bar and shank that, I believe, stops the anchor settling into soft seabed’s and allows it to roll over. I think this secondary fluke is patented (not that this would stop anyone using something similar.) Maybe Rex can tell us more.

Rex Wrote:
Djbangi, I am not sure if this is worth going through all over again, I have gone over the roll bar thingy many times, no one really seems to be interested, Brian from Fortress has also been also pounding out a message that is marginally related to the following, one more time, Sarca roll bar was before Rocna , Manson Supreme, I am talking probably 10 years.


So we had worked on and developed the roll bar design for many years and found in soft mud just as is what Brian is saying, if landing in a previous dibit , trench, or hollow from the drag of a previous anchor, a roll bar design can end up upside down, this can happen either two ways, it lands upside down or is flipped, the roll bar in soft mud then acts like a rudder and pulls the anchor down upside down creating a very slow drag, So we invented –design and Patented a secondary fluke plate that absolutely works a treat, it lifts the anchor up when its on the roll bar to allow-employ the anchors natural centrifugal weight advantage to right the anchor.

In a change of wind or tide, or both-- Rarely do anchors break out when pivoting around, breaking out is most caused by flipping the anchor, if it is c logged it will drag until most of the previous hold material is dispersed, if in soft mud a roll bar design can drag very slowly for incredibly long distances due to being clogged or upside down unless you give the throttle a stab to right it.


Roll bar anchor designs are all different, just remember this and you will see, easy to make your conclusion when you look at Brian’s graphs as to what choices you have in roll bar anchor designs and as to how they performed.
Roll bar sizes, (I am talking circumference not thickness) The mall roll bar clogs easily and can drag upside down, (end result poor performance) larger roll bar,( better performance due to less clogging but is still prone to dragging upside down).


Now the largest roll bar design on the market, noticeably much larger, has low but consistent performance over the first two roll bar designs, the low holding power in soft mud is marginally due to fluke design and shank base and throat height, the above can be confirmed by looking again at the charts, the other major difference is this, the manufacture of this large roll bar design has done a great job of ensuring the anchor lands the right way up, unlike the other roll bar designs that can land on their side or back.


This is why it is a consistent performer, keep in mind they do recommend very big anchors for small boats, just maybe they should have been heavier and larger anchors as to their competitors to produce good figures, (just sayaing) why all of this looks positive the unknown can still, will get you, if a large roll bar design is flipped in soft mud look out, you may then wish you had a smaller roll bar design, as mentioned when on their roll bars create drag, a very slow drag, but an anchor with a larger roll bar will sink-be dragged in deeper creating even more drag and somewhat slower, the larger the roll bar the more difficult to right themselves with a thump of the throttle.


This company has also stated you do not need their roll bar? True until you drift directly over it in a wind shift or tide, then my friends no amount of thumping the throttle will right it. All anchors can drag upside down at some time or another,difference being a roll bar with out a self writng secondary fluke can be a problem.


In firm or hard soils only shallow penetration is needed to supply a sufficient hold of which all three can offer, really not much chance of clogging regardless of roll bar size, they all have very sharp entry points to cope with this and there is really no one with a major advantage over the other.


Yes I know I am an opposition, but I am here in Australia, no threat to anyone, but before the big three roll bar anchors were invented or being marketed worldwide we were selling the original Sarca in New Zealand probably 5 years prior.


Just so you know, the original Sarca was concave before--------- and was a dead ringer, we turned it up the other way into a convex design, as in its original concave format was a mud bucket and clogged in soft mud, fact not fiction.


I included the latter just to give me some credibility on what I have commented on.


You know if you look closely at more than just holding power in Brian's test there really is alot to learn.


Regards Rex.
 
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I plan to purchase a Fortress FX-23 and test it too.

For setting and holding, the extra Danforth weight (double) as compared to FX-23 is a factor. But, the FX light weight for handling is appreciated and the 45 degree FX angle is the big deal I see for better accomplishing setting and holding in mud conditions.


Are you not considering an FX-37 at all?

-Chris
 
Are you not considering an FX-37 at all?

-Chris

Hey Chris

Thanks for asking. I have considered FX-37. However FX-23 is already one step larger than what Fortress recommends for boat our size, i.e. 34', 22K lb. gross, Tollycraft tri cabin cruiser. We plan to use FX anchor as a back anchor in very muddy bottom of SF Delta. FX-37 (I've held that model fully assembled in my hands at WM)... I'm sure the 37 would provide even more chance for setting/holding in the mud-bottom locations we traverse... however, it is also the light weight of the FX-23 that plays heavily in my decision. We currently have and use a light weight old-school (1970's) aluminum Viking anchor (same approx. size and weight as FX-16). It holds fairly well in mud bottom as back anchor, but, has let lose and therefore I still do not feel totally secure enough when we leave boat for many hours while cavorting around Delta in our fast runabout. The unique fashion in which we usually anchor at Delta islands' slough sides makes it imperative that both front and back anchor do not let go.

I feel fairly confident that FX-23 with considerably larger fluke area than our current Viking anchor, as well as its increased 45 degree fluke to shank angle, will do the trick! If not - then I may purchase an FX-37??? Storage aboard in a non-intrusive location on boat is also a factor as well as light weight for handling. FX-37 is getting into the pretty big range! Time will tell. I'll post results after repeat tests... maybe mid to end summer 2015.

Art :speed boat:
 
From the detail of his posts, it is worth stating that Rex of Anchor Right has painstakingly designed and thoroughly tested his anchors of multiple types, and as I have mentioned previously, I consider him to be a pioneer in this field.

Brian
 
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I'm sure the 37 would provide even more chance for setting/holding in the mud-bottom locations we traverse... however, it is also the light weight of the FX-23 that plays heavily in my decision.

I feel fairly confident that FX-23 with considerably larger fluke area than our current Viking anchor, as well as its increased 45 degree fluke to shank angle, will do the trick! If not - then I may purchase an FX-37??? Storage aboard in a non-intrusive location on boat is also a factor as well as light weight for handling. FX-37 is getting into the pretty big range!


Yeah, it's bigger but also heavier. I don't find the weight to be overwhelming, but that's in comparison to our larger/heavier primary anchor. FWIW, we store our FX-37 dismantled and in the bag, and that doesn't take up much space.

OTOH, it's not instantly available, either. Not a problem for us, since it's our first back-up, but we never (so far) deploy a stern anchor so ours sounds different from your situation.

-Chris
 
Yeah, it's bigger but also heavier. I don't find the weight to be overwhelming, but that's in comparison to our larger/heavier primary anchor. FWIW, we store our FX-37 dismantled and in the bag, and that doesn't take up much space.

OTOH, it's not instantly available, either. Not a problem for us, since it's our first back-up, but we never (so far) deploy a stern anchor so ours sounds different from your situation.

-Chris

Chris

SF Delta anchoring design I established for our boat is considerably different than most anchoring situations.

I spent 20 years anchoring in salt water bays, channels, and even off shore in not too deep locations of New England. I also anchored boats in SF Bay. Nearly all times front anchor allowing full swing was all I used or needed.

April 09, when we moved our Tolly boat into SF Delta fresh and warm swimming waters, I ran into a MUDDY bottom as I'd never before been accustomed. This stuff is feet deep of the finest silt-like bottom mud I've ever seen... black, wet, sticky talcum powder is best comparison I can think of.

Sooo... I quickly devised another anchoring technique that included the nearly unlimited availability to small islands' above water land mass in conjunction with a stern anchor in muddy bottom for nearly negated swing. When both anchors are positioned correctly this puts boat at 90 degrees to island shore and nose of boat within 10 to 15 feet of island edge (still having 4 to 5 feet water under bow - because island edges drop off suddenly and deeply). To boat rear 15 to 25 feet depth remains off swim step. My "dual anchor" process works wonderfully as long as the rear anchor does not let lose. Because, if it does, via tidal current the boat can swing parallel with island's shore as tide change begins toward high or low. A "high and dry" grounding could occur if we were asleep or away in our runabout and current changed toward low tide. In the Delta there is often a very high tide followed by the next high (or groups of highs) up to 2' lesser in height. That could mean it may take days or even weeks to wait for a tide that would "refloat the boat"... if she'd been grounded parallel with shore from results of a very high tide wherein current swung her against shore as it headed toward low.

A specially placed small front anchor firmly secured into island "growth", on dry land never fails! It's the rear anchor taking hold in that yucky mud that simply MUST also never fail.

FX-37 would give even more security than the FX-23... but, whichever anchor I chose will need to be able to hang assembled on my bow rail clips to be deployed easily and quickly by bring it to rear and fastening chain end's SS clip onto its shank-hole. We'll use it nearly every time we anchor out swimmen and playen in and around the Delta. :thumb:

Boating Cheers! - Art
 
Rex,
What a very interesting post. I love a post that makes me think and I got my head around most all of it eventually. There's stand up comedy and stand up anchors and you've got one of them there uppers. There seems to be no end of mysterious and form follows function intrigue.

You wrote;
"In a change of wind or tide, or both-- Rarely do anchors break out when pivoting around, breaking out is most caused by flipping the anchor, if it is c logged it will drag until most of the previous hold material is dispersed, if in soft mud a roll bar design can drag very slowly for incredibly long distances due to being clogged or upside down unless you give the throttle a stab to right it."
B
For the Supreme or the Rocna to develop it's maximum holding power I would imagine it to be "clogged" as you say. As I've stated earlier the roll bar clogging (forcing the substrate through the "hole" between the roll bar and the fluke) probably produces a good portion of it's resistance. Resistance it is .. but far from the holding power of a good fluke. Your SARCA is far less subject to this "jam the substrate through the slot" kind of "after effect holding power" function that powers the Supreme and the Rocna to a great extent.

When I finish experimenting w my Supreme it will no longer be a roll bar anchor.

And your point about consistency of performance being important is under stated IMO. Of course an anchor could be so weak that holding power could trump consistency but most anchors probably generate enough holding power so as to render consistency or/and dependability as the #1 performance feature of any boat anchor. And I know of no anchor that appears to deliver more consistency than your SUPER SARCA.

What company has stated their roll bar is not needed?

And did you abandon the concave fluke completely for environmental reasons?
 
Mannyboats Wrote:
Rex,
What a very interesting post. I love a post that makes me think and I got my head around most all of it eventually. There's stand up comedy and stand up anchors and you've got one of them there uppers. There seems to be no end of mysterious and form follows function intrigue.

Rex Wrote:

Thank you Eric and Brian for your kind words, in my last post I set out to answer Djbangi question, after I had sent the post I sat down and re read it, unfortunately my passion got the best of me and I commented on more than I should have, so if I offended any of the opposition I apologize. Plenty of room for all designs to satisfy many opinions.

Eric wrote:
What company has stated their roll bar is not needed?

And did you abandon the concave fluke completely for environmental reasons?

Rex Wrote:

Roll bar not needed what company? No Im not naming but it is Easy one for you Eric.

Yes Eric I abandoned concave for a number of reasons; if you want to collect eggs then that’s the way to go, try holding eggs on a convex design.

Same with fist size rocks, concave drags them in and collects, weed , mud, all the same, we were first supplying trailer boats when we started with the old concave sacra, when anchored in mud it was almost impossible to break free and then hoist up with a fluke packed—clogged with heavy mud, trailer boats did not have winches then, further we found a fluke design( CONVEX) can easily disperse clutter therefore is more likely -- readily take hold if resetting from a break out is required.

As far as the environment is concerned, well the concave sacra was never going to make it with our fisherman in Westernport, every time we hauled them up we removed large dibits of the weed beds, a large fishing chandlery at the time, Boronia Marine refused to put them in, so Eric, you could say there were a few good pointers that persuaded us to change.

Good luck with your anchor theories Eric, what you will find in designing it is like giving with one hand to be robbed by the other, sometimes going in reverse is better than forward thinking when it comes to anchor designing.

If we gave our wives this much attention we would all have smiles on our faces and maybe, forget about anchors.


Regards Rex.
 
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While this will be interesting, let's everyone keep in mind that it will not be any sort of defining test as to the best anchor. When you get testing done by a brand, they're obviously smart enough to test in all conditions that show their product best. Yes, independent review of results, but not an independent choice of conditions. Still, I look forward to the results. Just won't read more into them than they are. They are a test of anchors in one specific setting chosen by Fortress.

Exactly:thumb::thumb::thumb: No mater what happens here it has to be suspect. If the funding is by one of the contestants and conditions are limited or selected in any way by a financially interested party only the naïve could consider the testing unbiased. Now if Fortress established a blind fund earmarked for anchor testing by a independent third party selected for objectivity and not knowing where the $ came from then maybe we have unbiased testing. When it comes to companies selling products and claims related to the same in our society it pays to be a major skeptic. This in no way makes a statement about the quality or ability of the anchor but says much about the likely value of the intended tests.
 
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