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Old 10-28-2012, 01:52 AM   #41
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It's easy to scar one's hull if over-running the anchor chain. So far, have been able to use the windlass to haul in the anchor with the boat's engine running but in neutral.
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Old 10-28-2012, 06:52 AM   #42
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There is a boat length of difference between scatching the paintwork on the bow and getting an anchor chain in the prop or rudder by going ahead.
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Old 10-29-2012, 02:29 AM   #43
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In the kind of lee shore scenario we're talking about here (SD's earlier post) we had dragged into six feet of water (boat draws four). We had put out a 7:1 scope in 25 feet of water originally. Putting the boat in gear and simply driving off as SD suggested could have very possibly put the chain up into the running gear.

Every situation's different and what might apply to one may have no relevance to another.
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Old 10-29-2012, 06:37 AM   #44
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A moment with a straightedge, a piece of graph paper, and a profile of your hull will show that unless your anchor chain floats, or the boat is moving so fast the anchor is skipping in the wake two feet behind the transom, or gravity has failed in your location, it ain't going to happen, Marin.

Even if your boat dragged the chain in four feet of water, it isn't going to wrap around the prop unless you rubbed the bottom long enough to wear the keel down.

How is that chain supposed to rise up off the bottom to a level above the keel 30 some odd feet behind the anchor hawse?
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Old 10-29-2012, 02:06 PM   #45
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You are probably correct with regards to the running gear fouling although things sometimes happen in boating that logic would say should not. If we took off leaving the anchor on the bottom at the end of 175' of chain in six feet of water and the anchor snagged on something per SD's scenario, who's to say that 175 feet of chain couldn't get yanked taunt enough to come up momentarily and hit a prop? You wouldn't think it would but........ Every situation is different and what makes sense to do or try in one situation may not make sense in another one.
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