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Old 08-25-2014, 12:09 AM   #21
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We run all-chain rode. Looking at the chain wildcat I'm not sure how well it would handle line. The edges of the wildcat link cutouts are sharp, so it looks like it could be pretty hard on line.
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Old 08-25-2014, 12:11 AM   #22
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I just installed a Lofrans Tigres last May/June 2014 , 1500 watt motor. I opted for the 1/4 G40 chain, 275 ft of it new and 150 ft 1/2" line kept from the previous setup. Next year i will buy new line, a bit heavier.

It worked very well for me this past summer feeding and retrieving the chain.

I made a snubber with one of the rubber snubbers in the line so the windlass does not hold the boat. I have seen bent shafts when at the distributors looking at the windlass when people did not take the load off the wildcat shaft.

I wanted the ability to handle a combination rode but Lofrans simply does not offer combo wildcats. At 275' chain I figure the chance that I will have any line out is slim and infrequent.

Maybe one day I will see if I can find one that can be adapted from one of the other mfgrs., maybe not.


The other thing I wanted was the windlass mounted cleat, a strong one. I have limited deck space and no big bow cleat. Gunwale mounted mooring bits I added years ago but the windlass mounted cleat is still a requirement.

Only the Lofrans and Muir offer this feature anymore. The cleat eliminated the Maxwells.

I almost went for a Muir but they could not deliver it in time. The Muir offers both features, the combo rode handling and the cleat. It was also about $800.00 more.

My Tigres has done me well. I did get a cover made for it and the deck switches.

If you go that route I will warn you about one catch and it has to do with the deck switches. The pattern they supply for the mounting holes is WRONG. Luckily I was suspicious and checked or I would have made 6 useless holes in my deck. Check it out.

The pattern for the windlass mounting and hawse holes were spot on.

I went from a 36 yr old Vetus/Lofrans Cayman that was up only. It also had the heavy cleat but that feature they apparently have dropped. If the cleat were still offered the Cayman would have done me well also.

I used 0000 wire from the batteries to the locker, 33 ft run one way, 66 ft round trip.

From there the BIGGEST wire was a #4AWG that I could fit under the motor cover. I was annoyed at that since I had to find out the hard/expensive way. I knew the 0000 was out of the question but even after measuring I still was wrong by one size. They do not tell you.

If you want any more info send me a note.
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Old 08-25-2014, 12:24 AM   #23
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The cleat on top of the Lofrans is very handy, but we don't use it for anything to do with anchoring. We set, hold, and break out the anchor against one of the heavily-backed deck cleats. The windlass cleat we use for the short keeper line that holds the self-deploying anchor on the pulpit.
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Old 08-25-2014, 12:29 AM   #24
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Yes, I would too if I had the deck space, one shortcoming of my boat. Strictly speaking I could mount one, maybe a skookum bitt but after almost 30 yrs don;t see the need anymore. But the point is taken.
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Old 10-30-2014, 02:57 PM   #25
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Lofrans Tiger installation

Hello rochepoint,

I have a Marine Trader 36 Sundeck and I'm studying the possibility of replacing the windlass that is too small by a Lofrans Tiger.
I just saw pictures of the installation of your Lofrans Tiger and I notice that the box the engine is very willing your big bollard of Mooring.
Can you easily remove the cover that slides backwards on stainless steel rods?
Given the space resteint I have the same problem and I thought I was forced to retreat to my big bollard docking.
It is difficult to assess your photos the exact distances but I would like the dimensions that you have:
1- Between bollard and cover engine
2- Between the front of the windlass and the handle end of your anchor.

Everything works there without any problems?

Thank you for your cooperation

Jacques

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Old 10-30-2014, 04:44 PM   #26
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I am working on a new windlass install as well.

My situation looks like Marin's, so my plan is to take the SS 3/16" box I had fabricated as a pedestal base, and to install a vertical LoFrans Project windlass. The motor inside the pedestal and above the deck.

My 7" pedestal is large enough to hold the motor, wiring, and a wash down pump connection inside the box. I plan to mount the switches on top of the platform with my Samson post off center in back, reducing the number of holes through my deck. The box is solid on the bottom and flanged on top, so I can remove the whole top of the pedestal to service anything inside without unbolting the base.

The 8" total rise from the deck matches the rail height, so the bow roller meets the chain wheel height on the windlass.

I will post a pic when done, heading to a plasma cutter tonight to notch the base for the switches and motor. LoFrans does make a windlass that handles rope and chain mixed, but not in a horizontal windlass.
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Old 10-30-2014, 05:02 PM   #27
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Marin,

I have one of these on the Albin that I bought after my Nordic Tug. My 2000 42 NT had a Maxwell windlass.

What does the manual retrieve tool look like? I probably have one on board and don't recognize it.
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Old 10-31-2014, 08:41 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jacques View Post
Hello rochepoint,

I have a Marine Trader 36 Sundeck and I'm studying the possibility of replacing the windlass that is too small by a Lofrans Tiger.
I just saw pictures of the installation of your Lofrans Tiger and I notice that the box the engine is very willing your big bollard of Mooring.
Can you easily remove the cover that slides backwards on stainless steel rods?
Given the space resteint I have the same problem and I thought I was forced to retreat to my big bollard docking.
It is difficult to assess your photos the exact distances but I would like the dimensions that you have:
1- Between bollard and cover engine
2- Between the front of the windlass and the handle end of your anchor.

Everything works there without any problems?

Thank you for your cooperation

Jacques

Attachment 34000

Attachment 34001

Our Lofrans Tigres is only a 1/4" from the bollard, if I ever had to access the the motor I would simply unbolt the four mounting bolts on the windlass and move it forward. The distance from the center of the capstan and the head of the new Ex Cel anchor is about 7".

The nylon thru hull under the capstan holds the reed switch for the electronic chain counter. In the 30 years since it's install the cover has never had to be removed, knock on wood.....

This windlass has always performed flawlessly....

Hope this answers you question and the tape measure helps, Would I buy another one...you bet! Great product!........
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Old 10-31-2014, 08:49 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by Jacques View Post
Hello rochepoint,

I have a Marine Trader 36 Sundeck and I'm studying the possibility of replacing the windlass that is too small by a Lofrans Tiger.

Attachment 34000

Attachment 34001
I have a similar SL windlass (your old) on my Monk which works fine with a 45# CQR. Just curious why you think it is too small?
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Old 11-04-2014, 06:29 AM   #30
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Marin,

I have one of these on the Albin that I bought after my Nordic Tug. My 2000 42 NT had a Maxwell windlass.

What does the manual retrieve tool look like? I probably have one on board and don't recognize it.
Sorry, just saw your question this evening. The manual retrieve tool is nothing more than a thick-walled stainless tube with a rubber hand grip on one end. We keep ours in a pair of spring clips beside the main cabin door.

The tube fits into the holes in the base of the line gypsy on the port side of the windlass. The retrieval action is a ratchetting movement, and it's quite slow.

Where the manual handle comes in handy is to tighten or free the friction brake on the wildcat. By fitting the tube over one of the spokes on the brake and using the notch lock to keep the wildcat from turning the brake can be backed off if it's too tight to break free by hand or tightened if it needs to be screwed down tighter than can be done by hand.
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Old 11-11-2014, 02:56 PM   #31
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Horizontal Windlass

Hello all, This may be a tad off subject, but I have a question about using a horizontal windlass. On the boat I just bought a couple months ago, I have mixed chain and line.

When retrieving the anchor, starting with the line on the left side, how does one transition to chain on the right side? Do you tie off the line and line the chain up with the right side (is that called a wildcat?). Sorry, if this is a silly question with incorrect terminology.
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Old 11-11-2014, 03:38 PM   #32
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Many will handle the transition on the chain wheel side alone, pulling the line with the lugs that pull the chain. Of course the chain wheel is designed specifically for this (most of the time), so moving the line from the other side of the windlass is not necessary.

The link of rope to chain has to be a splice to pass through the chain wheel, a shackle won't pass.

I suspect almost nobody does a manual transition, opting for an all chain rode instead. The chain has to enter the chain wheel to begin pulling it, you wouldn't want to wind the chain onto the capstan to get enough length.

That is a great question, and I am looking forward to hearing the answers. Might need to start a new thread to get it going.
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Old 11-11-2014, 05:05 PM   #33
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When retrieving the anchor, starting with the line on the left side, how does one transition to chain on the right side? Do you tie off the line and line the chain up with the right side (is that called a wildcat?). Sorry, if this is a silly question with incorrect terminology.[/QUOTE]
I have the same question for our new to us boat. On my windlass set up (Lofrans like post # 21) the starboard rode is all chain and set up to retrieve on the "chain" side of the windlass. The port side anchor is a combination chain/rope rode. Will the rope side of the windlass retrieve the chain portion as well with a "turn" around the gypsy? Or is some sort of transition as described above necessary?
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Old 11-11-2014, 06:52 PM   #34
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When retrieving the anchor, starting with the line on the left side, how does one transition to chain on the right side?
We eliminated the need to do this by using all-chain rode. Not really the answer you were looking for, I know....

We don't see any advantage on our boat to using a combination rode, we see a number of advantages to using an all-chain rode, and the manufacturer of our anchor strongly recommends using all-chain with this particular anchor.

We do use line for our anchor trip-line however, so when we use the trip line we haul it in and back the anchor out using the line gypsy on the left side of the windlass. We feed the trip line thorugh the port bow hawse and then to the line gypsy.

Were we faced with the situation you have, we would simply lift the bitter end of the chain over and place it in the wildcat, feed the remaining line down the hawsepipe into the chain locker, and carry on retrieving the anchor.
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Old 11-11-2014, 10:14 PM   #35
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In Mexico on our sailboat we used a rope/chain splice. I inspected the line and chain each year and re-spliced the connection. We very seldom used the 3/4 line as usually 150' of chain was enough.
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Old 11-11-2014, 11:08 PM   #36
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On my new Tigres I opted for all chain to 275' + 150 rope hoping that I will almost never have to use the rope.
However the previous windlass was a Cayman, the smaller cousin of the Tigres.

I did pull the rope on the drum untill the chain appeared and was almost long enough to transfer to the wildcat. I would then hold the chain feeding the rope and the start of the chain into the hole. If all went well it was not bad. If all did not go well it was a HEAVY job.
Note however, I had a secondary roller welded to the drum side of the pulpit that was halfway between the main roller and the rope drum. That secondary roller also split the angle between the main roller and the drum and it was two to three inches higher than the main roller and the windlass drum. The rope angled over quite well to the drum. That setup worked well for many years with a few hiccups untill last year when i had serious back trouble.

I also did have handy a 1/2 line with a grab hook to pull slack and hold the chain tied to the cleat to give me enough slack in the rope and chain to get it started down the hole. If the wind was up and the boat pulling hard on the rode that extra line made transferring possible. Only once or twice did I really need it.

Unfortunately i do not have any pictures available,
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