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Old 12-22-2016, 07:54 PM   #581
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Well eyeshulman it would be easy to try that on a number of anchors. Claws ( because they have a high up and well aft trip line attach hole) roll bar anchors like Rocnas or Supremes and others w a trip line attach hole well aft on the fluke or shank. Ataching the float line in the center/top of a roll bar would have a beneficial righting effect .. I think.
I'm working up to doing some testing on my Hogback Supreme (modified Supreme) and I want to rig a bridal on the stern to get almost the same thrust that Steve gets w his Panope. The Hogback is a 14lb anchor and I want to see if I can pull it out after a good set in a good bottom.
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Old 12-22-2016, 11:46 PM   #582
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Originally Posted by Nomad Willy View Post
Well eyeshulman it would be easy to try that on a number of anchors. Claws ( because they have a high up and well aft trip line attach hole) roll bar anchors like Rocnas or Supremes and others w a trip line attach hole well aft on the fluke or shank. Ataching the float line in the center/top of a roll bar would have a beneficial righting effect .. I think.
I'm working up to doing some testing on my Hogback Supreme (modified Supreme) and I want to rig a bridal on the stern to get almost the same thrust that Steve gets w his Panope. The Hogback is a 14lb anchor and I want to see if I can pull it out after a good set in a good bottom.
What if you could get in a swimming pool or clear water with a clean anchor and a few different sized floats and see what was just enough to give a little forward tilt to the anchor without too much unweighting affect. It would also be interesting to watch and see if the anchor positioning upright on bottom is aided by a small float.
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Old 12-23-2016, 11:20 AM   #583
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eyeshulman,
Another thought is that the anchor designer went to a lot of trouble to get the fluke to bottom angle just right. For example there is a difference in the fluke angle on some Claws. Remember Steve pointed that out in his post that was all commentary showing two Claws that had different shank to fluke angles. And of course some work better than others. If the fluke was too vertical assuming the anchor was set and buried, that could make an anchor prone to breaking out. Conversely if the fluke was too close to parallel to the shank the anchor would slide right out of the bottom .. or drag.
With a Dan if the fluke angle was 55 degrees instead of the time honored 32 degrees the anchor would tend to pop up in the back and break out. Seems to me I saw a Claw pop up it's rear end and break out like that in Steve's vids. Makes me wonder if maybe the fluke angle is too much on some Claws.

So I'm thinking altering the angles designed into the anchor may be counter productive. This is assuming the anchor was designed right in the first place and I think quite a few can be improved on. Knock off anchors are usually a bit different and the differences will either help or hinder the anchors performance. It is probably very hard to identify what variation in design is good or bad.

Assuming your float line anchor did set and bury itself and the fluke angle was right (optimal) the lifting force of the float line would probably tend to upset (or at least lift the anchor up) and that may promote a breakout.

Have you seen the Hydro Bubble (brand) anchor? The advantage of your float line anchor over the Hydro Bubble (as I see it) is that there is only a thin line to drag into the bottom. Whereas the Hydro Bubble needs to drag an air chamber (about the size of a baseball) into the seafloor to get good penetration. Big advantage to your idea.
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Old 12-23-2016, 07:35 PM   #584
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Willy I don't think we can improve on the anchors that set and hold well but there are many that do not and it is there where some testing would be interesting. IN some places it is smart to have a trip line and the type of float I am thinking of would not be enough to trip the anchor just enough to cause a slight change of the angel of attack maybe no more float then is on the camera used for the video obviously some experimentation would be needed. The float on the camera does not seem to have a negative effect and I am wondering if it is actually helping some of the anchors used.
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Old 12-23-2016, 08:11 PM   #585
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eyschulman View Post
Willy I don't think we can improve on the anchors that set and hold well but there are many that do not and it is there where some testing would be interesting........The float on the camera does not seem to have a negative effect and I am wondering if it is actually helping some of the anchors used.
I suspect you are right, in that the camera flotation did appear to flatter some anchors, in helping them avoid landing all askew, and certainly it helped the Super Sarca, which I use, land upright virtually every time. I don't think that actually affected what Steve was actually demonstrating, and that was the set and multiple re-set characteristics of each. However, one slight downside as far as the S-Sarca was concerned anyway, was it prevented it showing its amazing ability to quickly right itself and set, whatever way it happened to hit the seabed, which of course, is the raison d'etre of the roll bar and its overall design.
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