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Old 01-06-2019, 08:24 PM   #1
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Anchor chain and swivel and anchor.

There seems to be multiple levels of WLL in the 5/8 chain, which would you get and would you get a Mantus integrated shackle swivel( this also comes in several WLL for 5/8? My boat is a 36 footer that was stretched to 41(Pursuit 365I) with an outboard clamshell and small "Euro-transom".
While were are at it, the factory anchor is a 35 lb ss plow through the bow, thoughts about that. I also carry a Frotress anchor that Fortress alleges is for a 39-45 boat and I have 30 feet of chain on that.
I know this boat is minimal for long distance cruising, but I own it and until I absolutely KNOW that I love cruising, I am waiting of the N or KK or similar.
Thanks for all of your help!
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Old 01-06-2019, 09:06 PM   #2
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5/8 chain seems awfully big, did you mean 5/16? Our 38' PT sedan has 5/16 chain, an #2 Mantus swivel and a 48lb Excel anchor.
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Old 01-07-2019, 01:23 AM   #3
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You are correct, I meant to write 5/16. Thank you for pointing that out. The reat is accurate though.
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Old 01-07-2019, 06:48 AM   #4
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If you’re using a windlass, you want windlass chain, which has short links. It comes in Grade 30 (BBB) and 40 (HT). HT is stronger than BBB, but not by as much as the WLL’s imply - different multiples for the two, a marketing gimmick, I guess. Either should be fine for your boat. Don’t forget the strength of the swivel, which is likely far less than the chain. When I researched replacing my chain (went from 1/4” BBB to 5/16 HT), I ditched the terminal swivel and D shackle setup the boat came with, and went to back-to-back 3/8” galvanized alloy shackles, which have the same ultimate strength as the chain. To my surprise, the shackles work better than the swivel; I’ve never had to fiddle with the anchor (55 lb Delta) to get it the right way over the roller. Don’t forget to double seize the shackle pins.
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Old 01-07-2019, 07:29 AM   #5
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IMO 5/16 HT is a good size and strength for your boat. If you have or plan to use a windlass, you MUST match the chain to the windlass "gypsy". If you're buying a windlass, you can decide on your chain and buy the windlass to match, if you already have a windlass, you can either match what you have or (usually) buy a replacement gypsy to match the chain.

As far as matching WLL limits goes - it really is true that your chain is only as strong as its weakest link. For links and or swivels you should at least match the WLL of the chain or possibly go higher - never lower.

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Old 01-07-2019, 08:07 AM   #6
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I highly recommend the Ultra Anchor Swivel, has an impressive working load and great design. I have one 1/2 version for my primary and one for my secondary anchor.
Also if you are worried about the chain breaking get/make yourself a good snubber as that will reduce the peak loads.
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Old 01-07-2019, 06:29 PM   #7
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Careful with swivels! They are not bad in and of themselves, but with how most boaters attach them. Most swivels are not designed to take a "side load" and should not be attached directly to the anchor. Even some of the very expensive stainless swivels have reportedly failed when attached in this way, and they were side loaded by the boat moving about at anchor.

Something to think about at the very least.
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Old 01-07-2019, 06:36 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by firehoser75 View Post
Careful with swivels! They are not bad in and of themselves, but with how most boaters attach them. Most swivels are not designed to take a "side load" and should not be attached directly to the anchor. Even some of the very expensive stainless swivels have reportedly failed when attached in this way, and they were side loaded by the boat moving about at anchor.

Something to think about at the very least.
Regards,
Tom
That the beauty of the Mantus swivel, it designed shackle has no side load....
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Old 01-07-2019, 07:50 PM   #9
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Agree on most swivels, once you have seen the ultra in person there is no way that’s breaking before the chain. In all fairness I think it’s also 10-15x the cost of a cheap swivel.
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Old 01-14-2019, 02:02 PM   #10
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We use 5/16 G40 chain with a Mantus swivel. We are very happy with both.
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Old 01-14-2019, 08:01 PM   #11
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The others have covered the chain, but regarding the anchor. I have used plows, danforths, and next gen anchors. The next gen anchors are far superior.

Get a Rocna, Mantus, Manson, Sarca, or Spade. They are significantly better than the older styles.
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Old 01-15-2019, 07:12 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris71 View Post
...and would you get a Mantus integrated shackle swivel( this also comes in several WLL for 5/8? My boat is a 36 footer that was stretched to 41(Pursuit 365I) with an outboard clamshell and small "Euro-transom".
While were are at it, the factory anchor is a 35 lb ss plow through the bow, thoughts about that. I also carry a Frotress anchor that Fortress alleges is for a 39-45 boat and I have 30 feet of chain on that.
If by plow you mean a Delta, it could work well enough depending on your typical holding ground. You might hum a few bars about the bottom material that you most commonly encounter.

If by plow you mean CQR... I don't have any experience with one of those...

The Fortress chart won't load just now, but sounds like maybe you have an FX-23? If so, should be good. And you boat has relatively low windage too, yes? Even better...

Were it me, I'd only use a swivel to solve a specific problem. If I had to use a swivel (we do) I'd choose a good one, and I'd pay particular attention to a given model's potential for dealing with side-loading.


Quote:
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The others have covered the chain, but regarding the anchor. I have used plows, danforths, and next gen anchors. The next gen anchors are far superior.

Get a Rocna, Mantus, Manson, Sarca, or Spade. They are significantly better than the older styles.
I don't have experience with those, but I can say the SuperMAX would also be a very good choice.

-Chris
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Old 01-15-2019, 09:42 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Commander Nomad View Post
The others have covered the chain, but regarding the anchor. I have used plows, danforths, and next gen anchors. The next gen anchors are far superior.

Get a Rocna, Mantus, Manson, Sarca, or Spade. They are significantly better than the older styles.
+1 We've had a Classic Rocna, a Mantus Supreme and currently have a Rocna Vulcan. I keep a Fortress as a stern anchor or emergency spare. It's is too small to be a proper bower.

I would never use a Danforth style anchor as a primary anchor.
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Old 01-24-2019, 07:23 PM   #14
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IF you’re using a windlass, one of my recommendations is to GO BIG with your anchor. Although this is my thought, others might recommend otherwise. I have 5/16 HT chain and an 80# Maxwell Supreme. I also have a Fortress FX55 unused on our boat. If I had that purchase to do over, I most likely would purchase a Guardian version of Fortress and a heavier one at that.

EDIT: WOOPS! Manson Supreme anchor and the windlass is a Maxwell HWC2200 operating on 24vdc
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Old 01-25-2019, 12:30 PM   #15
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I have a Maxwell VWC 3500 with 550 feet of 5/16 BBB of chain and a 77lb Rocna Anchor.
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Old 01-25-2019, 12:53 PM   #16
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That windless shore is purty there Tom!
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Old 01-25-2019, 05:34 PM   #17
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What do people think about having the anchor shank through a slot in the bowsprit? Especially with a single bow roller.
Strength could be a plus,but ? convenience. I think I`d prefer an open two roller set up. We`ve only one, open at the far end. We often pick up a National Parks mooring, to get a good pennant run we lift the anchor out of position, sit it on its butt on a mat(it`s a Super Sarca) and run the pennant over the bow roller.
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Old 01-25-2019, 08:09 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wpc691 View Post
If youíre using a windlass, you want windlass chain, which has short links. It comes in Grade 30 (BBB) and 40 (HT). HT is stronger than BBB, but not by as much as the WLLís imply - different multiples for the two, a marketing gimmick, I guess. Either should be fine for your boat. Donít forget the strength of the swivel, which is likely far less than the chain. When I researched replacing my chain (went from 1/4Ē BBB to 5/16 HT), I ditched the terminal swivel and D shackle setup the boat came with, and went to back-to-back 3/8Ē galvanized alloy shackles, which have the same ultimate strength as the chain. To my surprise, the shackles work better than the swivel; Iíve never had to fiddle with the anchor (55 lb Delta) to get it the right way over the roller. Donít forget to double seize the shackle pins.


And I also have a 55# Delta and don't need a swivel at all, just the one shackle from 3/8" BBB chain to anchor. The shorter links of BBB make it heavier per foot and less likely to kink in the chain locker.
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Old 01-25-2019, 09:41 PM   #19
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What do people think about having the anchor shank through a slot in the bowsprit? Especially with a single bow roller.
Strength could be a plus,but ? convenience. I think I`d prefer an open two roller set up. We`ve only one, open at the far end. We often pick up a National Parks mooring, to get a good pennant run we lift the anchor out of position, sit it on its butt on a mat(it`s a Super Sarca) and run the pennant over the bow roller.
That's how mine is set up and it's been battle tested with a 60 Hatt stuck on my bow like a pickle on a fork on SF Bay at anchor. My single 33# Lewmar Claw held us both through it all.

I was still able to operate my windlass after the allision albeit with a bent anchor roller and cracked wood pulpit.
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Old 01-25-2019, 09:56 PM   #20
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Not sure the question on the anchor shank?

We have a fiberglass aftermarket anchor pulpit. The anchor drops down through a slot in the pulpit with a roller on the inboard side. There is another elevated roller that gets the chain up to the height of the windlass as it travels sternward.

It works great with a 100lb Manson Boss anchor, aside from the fact that the pulpit was sized for something smaller than that anchor with 1/2"HT chain.

I'm going to redo it in the same configuration, just a larger slot and a bit beefier layup.
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