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Old 10-20-2014, 10:34 AM   #21
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HIDHO Does the new boat use a different size chain?
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Old 10-20-2014, 12:28 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CPseudonym View Post
Duct tape the base of the cone closed. Put the cone in the empty locker and pack it full with 1/2" nylon rope to keep it from deforming. Duct tape the top hole closed. Add chain.
Or just fill it with expanding spray foam and trim off what comes out the ends.
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Old 10-20-2014, 12:49 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by HiDHo View Post
The 1986 Monk36 we previously used 5/16" HT chain and I just made it a routine to rearrange the chain after anchoring. The pyramiding did not happen every time but we did have occasional jamming and I know how frustrating it is when it happens. I thought that the shape of the chain locker had a lot to do with the problem. The Manatee we own now has two separate chain lockers that are very deep and I have not had any problems with jamming so far. I would try the rearranging method before adding a cone, etc.
Bill
Or use an auto re-arranger like the cone concept is....
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Old 10-20-2014, 03:42 PM   #24
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Hidho: Probably the chain locker on my 2003 is the same as an 86 Monk but what did you do to rearrange the chain, knock the pile over and even it out? Thanks, please advise.
In any case I did look at some PVC fittings this morning, 4" sch 40 pipe
with cap (5" across) and a flange for 4" pipe for a base could be screwed down or mounted on a wider base to prevent tipping. It looks like that might work, it is fairly similar to the SS model posted earlier just a thicker shaft. about $25.
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Old 10-20-2014, 03:47 PM   #25
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Greetings,
Mr. S. Put a radius on the bottom of the top cap before you glue it on. There may be enough of a "sharp" edge there to grab the chain.
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Old 10-20-2014, 04:37 PM   #26
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Yes, I'd round it off on a belt sander.
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Old 10-20-2014, 11:08 PM   #27
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Had the same problem when I first had the Seeker. There was just 40' too much chain in the locker and the pipe did not drop it in the center but let it pile up in the stem and fall over on itself. Not cool for a single-hander when in crowded conditions. Both easily fixed w/o a cone
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Old 10-20-2014, 11:36 PM   #28
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Just curious.... how well would PVC hold up over time of having heavy, rough-surfaced chain rattling down on top of it?

Also, in looking at the mushroom-capped device from the UK that was pictured earlier, I could see the chain all ending up on one side of it rather than spooling down around it as intentioned. I suppose this could happen with a cone, too.

Obviously if there was someone down below to make sure the chain spooled down around the mushroom thing or a cone, then the tangle or jamming risk would be eliminated. But I doubt most of us can or want to have someone down below at the chain locker every time the anchor is retrieved.

I wonder if a box structure that was tall enough to contain the chain but not so wide as to allow it to slump over onto itself would be the most reliable storage system, assuming there was room in the anchor locker for it?

That's sort of what we have, although the "box" is not all that high. The chain still pyramids but the vertical wood sides fastened to the floor seem to keep the pyramid from going anywhere. Once we installed these sides, we've never (so far) had the chain jam itself.
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Old 10-21-2014, 06:05 AM   #29
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I wonder if a box structure that was tall enough to contain the chain but not so wide as to allow it to slump over onto itself would be the most reliable storage system, assuming there was room in the anchor locker for it?

Sizing in Skeenes
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Old 10-21-2014, 07:27 AM   #30
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I don't know, but it seems no one has first hand experience with using a cone (or the UK SS item) although the cone has been written about as a solution for years. maybe it is an "urban legend" of the nautical variety.
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Old 10-22-2014, 06:11 AM   #31
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One easy item for folks with chain is the concept of installing a line at the bitter end which can be cut to free the boat if required.

Better to install 2 lines , one free so you can tie a float on , while under heavy load , to locate that expensive ton of chain, before cutting it loose.

Using a grappling hook later to locate it on the bottom is an iffy deal.
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Old 10-22-2014, 08:16 AM   #32
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On the Monk36 I made it a routine to rearrange the pyramid manually thru the vee berth chain locker door to avoid jamming each time I hauled in the chain.
I like the specs on 5/16" HT chain, it worked well on the Monk36 so when I was removing a very marginal rope windlass on the Manatee I ordered the same chain size for the Ideal windlass I installed.
Your correct FF, I rigged the bitter end of the chain with a three strand pennant long enough to bring up on deck and attach a float or detach the chain and drop it in an emergency. I would use the MOB on my gps to mark the location.
Bill
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Old 10-22-2014, 11:18 AM   #33
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Use the hockey stick, or a version of this.

I use the windlass handle, with which I reach down into the chain locker while the chain is being wound in, and I knock the top of the pyramid over as it builds. This means I am on my knees while bringing in the anchor, but I no longer have the pile fall on itself the first time I hit a large wash.
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