Almost lost the anchor today

[Simi 60]

Have had relatively strong southerlies here for a few weeks and noise was made of a cat 1 cyclone coming close with an increase in southerlies, but not expecting more than 40 to 50 knots we stayed where we were and spooled out more chain.

Several days later to today and we up anchor for a change of scenery and the anchor shackle won't go through the roller, had several goes and kept jamming so wander down the front for a look and the pin on the shackle is almost out.

Quickly ran spectra through anchor and chain to take load off and did it up.

When i reversed the chain and put it together about 6 mths ago i used loctite, gave it a ball busting amount of crank, took to the thread end with a centrepunch to try and peen the threads shut and put tiewire through the eye and hadn't looked at it since.
Silly me.

The pin and 150lb anchor was less than 3 threads from gone.

 

[BruceK]

Lucky find, and a timely reminder to check the "mousing" of the pin. Especially as you`d applied 3 preventative measures. Of course it could have unwound during this particular anchoring.
Is someone on the bow for anchor drop/retrieve? Could more a problem with remote windlass operation, removing a visual check.
We have a preventer line for when the anchor is on the bow,its shackle snaps onto the ss sliding bow shackle(Sarca feature). Someone has to be there to unsnap it,and hopefully spots any "unwinding" issue same time. Alas, we lack remote windlass control.

 

[Bay Pelican]

Good catch. Had a shackle pin loose its threads. Was lucky in that I caught it as the pin was holding just by the tie wire. Since then I have changed out the shackles on a regular basis.

 

[menzies]

Wow, lucky there.

I am really surprised that the wire gave way as there is usually no pressure on that from a lateral standpoint, especially if the wind was consistent and the shackle pin wasn't being "spun." It would seem to suggest that somehow the pin was being turned in the same direction to the extent it snapped the wire.

Must check mine before we leave next week.

 

[boomerang]

I hate to be a skeptic but Locktite, the shackle pin torqued tightly, the shackle pin threads were peened and a locking wire to boot and the thing still came apart??? Something doesn't sound right. I'm not doubting your story at all but after all of those measures there's no way that shackle pin should've backed out. Heck, the connecting rods in your engine are subjected to thousands of jarring movements every minute and they don't come apart & all that holds them together is a good tightening! I would have to scrutinize the shackle a little closer or perhaps sabotage.
Glad you caught it & saved your anchor & better yet, I'm glad you caught it before it parted while still anchored!

 

[O C Diver]

Not meaning to second guess your anchoring technique, but it would seem to take a lot of chain motion to turn the pin that much. With adequate scope, I envision those first few feet of chain at the anchor as not moving up and down except during a tide or wind reversal and anchor reset. Might be worth a dive on the anchor during moderate wind to see if the shackle is in constant motion.

Ted

 

[fryedaze]

Discovered the pin on our anchor swivel worn about 10 percent. Replaced with a Mantua swivel yesterday. I came across the wear while modifying the chain locker drop (dumb luck). It should probably be a yearly inspection item.

 

[sunchaser]

Frydaze
That is not a very good swivel design, even when new. But, it has gotten you this far. Suggest a good quality SS model of alloy shackle only.

 

[Montenido]

Frydaze,
You are going to love that Mantus swivel. I'm not usually a fan of anchor swivels, but the design of these is quite unique, and pretty bullet-proof. I have had one for about a year now and love it.

Cheers, Bill

 

[fryedaze]

Sunchaser, is you comment about the new swivel in the first picture?

 

[RCook]

Frydaze,
You are going to love that Mantus swivel. I'm not usually a fan of anchor swivels, but the design of these is quite unique, and pretty bullet-proof. I have had one for about a year now and love it.

Cheers, Bill

Me too. Two summers on the Mantus. I re-wire each year. Looks great so far.

 

[sunchaser]

Sunchaser, is you comment about the new swivel in the first picture?

My confused state. The new swivel looks great and the old one not so as you well recognized.

 

[Aquabelle]

I am experimenting with heavy cable ties in place of stainless mousing wire after reading opinions of several experienced cruisers on another forum. Sarca anchor is safety-snubbed to windlass when not deployed so the cable ties are being inspected before and after every deployment as part of snubbing process, despite my routine use of a wireless chain-counting remote (which I love & now would never be without). I also have an Ultra swivel which after 9 years I am about to preventatively replace....also moused with cable tie. After 6 months of relatively frequent use cable ties show no signs of abrasion.

D or bow shackle joining anchor to chain and/or swivel? What are the pros & cons of each type?

 

[AKDoug]

Cable ties (wire ties) usually ratchet over a small piece of metal in the tie that is subject to corrosion. I have done that, but I currently use multiple passes of SS Aviation Safety Lock wire through the eye and around the shackle. I wouldn't trust a wire tie for more than just a few anchorings before replacing it.

SS shackles are not recommended for anchoring systems, forged shackles are the standard. When diving we used to find anchors lying on the bottom with no chain attached, so obviously there is some kind of force applied that backs out the shackle pins when anchored.

 

[NightCrawler]

Brought our anchor up onto the pulpit last summer after a day of fishing. Couldn't figure out why I had a loose end of chain laying on the deck as I was stowing the rode. Never used SS in 50 years of boating. But these came with the boat and they are so pretty. . . never again.

 

[Aquabelle]

Stainless D shackles are recommended by SARCA's manufacturer because they claim a stainless shackle will travel more freely along the anchor's trip slot. See figure 3 on the page opened by this link: Super SARCA Anchor - anchorright.com.au

 

[Aquabelle]

Cable ties (wire ties) usually ratchet over a small piece of metal in the tie that is subject to corrosion.

I am trialing heavy plastic cable ties for mousing my shackles as recommended by others. No metallic components whatever. There is almost no strain on the tie resulting from its role of preventing a shackle pin from unwinding.....but I'm monitoring for damage inflicted by setting and retrieving. Nothing visible yet....and a trivial job type to replace every 6mo or so. No more broken or sharp mousing wire to slice fingers

 

[AKDoug]

Practical Sailor tested shackles, NONE of the SS shackles passed their tests... Deformation was the number one issue, pin failure was the second most common issue. Only forged Grade 2 shackles were recommended for anchoring systems.

I used SS for many years with my 24' vessel, and wire ties, and had no issues but the way my rode and anchor were stowed were separate and I used a new wire tie very time I set up the rode to anchor. I know many of the wire ties have a metal component in the latch mechanism, but not all of them.

SS shackles don't tighten down, so disassembling them is much easier than a galvanized shackle, which usually required some kind of mechanical advantage to tighten and loosen, so a good securing mechanism (wire or tie) is of particular importance. I was always able to loosen my SS shackles with finger pressure, over tightening them will damage the threads.

If you don't disassemble your anchor and chain regularly, I can't see why you wouldn't use SS wire to secure the shackle. If you do disassemble regularly I completely understand wire ties.

Just passing along knowledge gleaned from articles and experience over the years. Cool thing about boats, you get to do it YOUR way regardless of what anyone else thinks

 

[Simi 60]

I reckon the issue we had is a S/S shackle which came with the boat.

It has a slightly larger pin size than the hole in the chain so when we end for ended the chain 6 mths back it was some work to get it through and perhaps this tightness is what undid it.
Link doesn't spin on pin but perhaps works like a spanner when lifting a well dug in anchor out cracking the loctite and breaking the wire?

I did go to replace the shackle with tested galv when last on the hard but baulked as it looked so ridiculously small compared to what it was replacing.
Also rated load on the big stainless was so much higher than the puny galv.

Guessing next time we're on land I'll be getting that puny galv shackle

 

[Simi 60]

Lucky find, and a timely reminder to check the "mousing" of the pin. Especially as you`d applied 3 preventative measures. Of course it could have unwound during this particular anchoring.
Is someone on the bow for anchor drop/retrieve? Could more a problem with remote windlass operation, removing a visual check.
We have a preventer line for when the anchor is on the bow,its shackle snaps onto the ss sliding bow shackle(Sarca feature).

When we first got her we used to tie the anchor on but then stopped as there is no way its going to jump out of the chaiwheel or the manual clutch will let go in the weather we travel in.

That took away the visual on the anchor going in as I drop it from the wheelhouse 30 feet away and several minutes later the financier is there to do the snubber.
For retrieval she'll usually be up there to pull the snubber in after its dropped, but sometimes is back up top before the anchor is up.

We try and anchor in clean, no mud waters so rarely get to hose chain and anchor so don't see it.

Need to get a shackle visual back into the routine.

 

[BruceK]

I reckon the issue we had is a S/S shackle which came with the boat...Guessing next time we're on land I'll be getting that puny galv shackle

The shiny ss shackle in your post looks much like the $18 no brand (described by Whitworths as a "Guangzhou")which I did not buy for the sliding shackle for my Sarca. I bought the 1/2" $40 Ronstan shackle, which came with an 8618kg rating.
Other than that one, I use galvanized shackles.
It might be worth checking the lock wiring/wire mousing method.I looked it up once,there is some technique involved. Aircraft buffs will know all about it.

 

[Simi 60]

Just ran the micrometer over chain, shackle and anchor and remember now why we stuck with what we have.

Current pin on s/s shackle is 18mm

Gap through chain is 18mm but that varies on links.
On some links the pin won't go through on one half of the link, some are loose.

Rated titan bow shackle with 16mm pin for 13mm chain is not wide enough in the throat to go over the shank of a 150lb supreme.
Next size shackle up pin is 19mm and to thick to go through chain.

 

[Simi 60]

Wondering how acceptable it would be to have two shackles.
16mm pin for 13mm chain but a bail large enough to take the larger pinned shackle with the throat large enough for the anchor shank?

Smaller shackle has a greater swl and break rating than the chain.

 

[Comodave]

I use S/S wire to safety the shackle. To get rid of the sharp end on the wire, I wrap it through 3 wraps around and twist it by the hole end of the pin. Twist it so that the twisted part is about 1/2” long and then I use a pair of needle nose pliand curl the twisted part back into the hole on the pin so it does not stick out and cut your hand.

If I were going to use a tie wrap, I bought some S/S tie wraps to secure the exhaust wrap. You would have to use wire cutters to remove them, but not much harder than removing a plastic tie wrap.

 

[AKDoug]

I use S/S wire to safety the shackle. To get rid of the sharp end on the wire, I wrap it through 3 wraps around and twist it by the hole end of the pin. Twist it so that the twisted part is about 1/2” long and then I use a pair of needle nose pliand curl the twisted part back into the hole on the pin so it does not stick out and cut your hand.

If I were going to use a tie wrap, I bought some S/S tie wraps to secure the exhaust wrap. You would have to use wire cutters to remove them, but not much harder than removing a plastic tie wrap.

That's exactly the way I do it also

 

[Simi 60]

Was looking at stainless electrical ties yesterday.
Just pulled the trigger

 

[Comodave]

I originally bought the S/S tie wraps for the exhaust wrap. They are really tough as far as I can tell so far. I am going to use them on my backup anchor since I store it separately from the rode.

 

[senangsekali]

Used Crosby shackles. And locking wire. I never seen a crosby shackle break but seen them distorted. We use Crosby shackles exclusivly in rigging here.

 

[AlaskaProf]

Aircraft buffs will know all about it.

Aircraft buff here. Many years of safetywiring, mostly oil filters wheel/brake parts, even got the nifty pliers. Wiring up my anchor shackle was one of the first tasks when I acquired Seeadler in 2016. Took about a dozen passes of the shackle through the widget (what is that thing...chock, I guess) at the stem to break it. So far better results with zip ties.

'Prof

 

[Simi 60]

Cant get crosby shackles here and even if i could i would have the same problem as i mentioned above.
Throat is to small for anchor shank but pin goes through chain.
Bigger shackle, throat fits over anchor shank but pin wont go through chain.

Oversize s/s while not my preferred choice fits