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Old 01-08-2015, 02:50 PM   #21
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BIG MISTAKE can be dodged by getting a horizontal shaft windlass. A vertical shaft windlass holds water above the bearing and will seize over time. A horizontal shaft windlass does not hold water on the bearings. In fact most have an oil reservoir that keeps the bearings happy. I would never own a vertical shaft windlass again.
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Old 01-08-2015, 03:11 PM   #22
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For daytime (lunch) anchoring we'll use a length of rope with a galvanized chain hook run up the bow roller to a bit aft of the windlass. For overnight anchoring we have a bridle with a Mantus SS plate we run the bridle, 1/2" 3 strand nylon, ends back through the hawse pipe on each side of the bow and attach to the cleats. This works fine, I thought the bridle might cut down on the "sailing at anchor" which can be fierce but it hasn't seemed to help in that respect, I haven't yet tried shortening one leg or the other of the bridle to see if that would help, or, maybe make it worse.
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Old 01-08-2015, 05:11 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by ksanders View Post
Great ideas guys! Thanks!

I was worried about the clevis hook (or chain plate) falling off but it seems that with the weight of the chain keeping tension on the hook that doesn't happen.

I did find another device, that looks like a clevis hook with a safety catch. Anybody use one of these?

I'm not sure it's the same brand, but I use that on my anchoring bridle. I also have a Lewmar chain stopper. While I will use the bridle once set, the chain stopper is very convenient for taking the strain off the windlass when setting and also when breaking the anchor free. I added a mooring bit when I upgraded the whole set-up. My anchor bridle is to my forward cleats, but I use the mooring bit, with fairleads (added after photo), for mooring bouys. The guys at the Ballard locks will sometimes lasso the mooring bit before I have a chance to get forward.
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Old 01-08-2015, 05:36 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ksanders View Post
Great ideas guys! Thanks!

I was worried about the clevis hook (or chain plate) falling off but it seems that with the weight of the chain keeping tension on the hook that doesn't happen.

I did find another device, that looks like a clevis hook with a safety catch. Anybody use one of these?

My only comment on that hook is to have a plan to deal with the pin if it gets bent / jammed. Not saying it will, but if it does......

Ted
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Old 01-08-2015, 06:44 PM   #25
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Trying out the Mantus hook next season after having had chain hooks fall off at slack tides even with a good long loop of chain dangling down.
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Old 01-08-2015, 07:11 PM   #26
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I am probably going to change my anchor rode to an all chain system along with replacing the windlass.

I've never use an all chain rode.

What type of device to you use to take the strain off of the windlass while at anchor? Or do you even bother?

I could use a clevis hook on a line to a cleat but that could fall off easily.

What do you use?
I think there is quite a bit on snubbers on this site, but IMO, the deluxe solution is:

Soft Dyneema shackle (stronger than chain, doesn't ding the topside) coupled to stretchy 3 strand or octoplait around 30' long. 1/2" should be the right size.

Chain hooks are almost all weaker than the soft shackle, some fall off and you will ding the hull with them sooner or later.

Lay out the chain, set the hook. Attach the soft shackle and lay out 35' more chain, with the snubber secured to a stout cleat.
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Old 01-08-2015, 08:13 PM   #27
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Mantus now have a "Gate lock" for their hooks. I got one but havent tried it out yet.
I do like the hook and have used it a couple of years it did come loose once.

Mantus Anchors | Mantus Hook Locker!
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Old 01-08-2015, 08:26 PM   #28
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Tonic,
Re your post # 23 ... How many and what size are the fasteners that hold that chain stopper to the deck? Is it strong enough?
I like the chain hook w the safety pin.
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Old 01-08-2015, 08:34 PM   #29
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My plate slides off the chain or used to under tide changes but I now use a small bungy cord to hold the plate against the chain, its cheezy but works. When I get time (haha) I will build a pin and latch that will hold it on and make it easier to remove.

For the original poster when wind is light and conditions are calm i dont use the bridle.

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Old 01-08-2015, 09:58 PM   #30
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FWIW, we use a combination rode.... here... mostly because the holding ground here is most often mud of varying consistency... and cleaning the mud out of the chain links is a major PITA. Anchoring depths are usually shallow, too.

(Maxwell RC windlass, handles both chain and rope just fine.)
I do exactly the same thing with my Muir 1200 RC windlass. (It also has zerk fittings for keeping it well lubricated) My gypsy accepts 3/8" links & I don't recall the size of the line. I only know that this lash up works extremely well.
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Old 01-08-2015, 11:14 PM   #31
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Tonic,
Re your post # 23 ... How many and what size are the fasteners that hold that chain stopper to the deck? Is it strong enough?
I like the chain hook w the safety pin.
Everything (windlass, stopper and bit) is thru-bolted, through the teak, the fiberglass, and then through a single large " aluminum backing plate I custom made and glued in place. The chain stopper has 4 hefty SS machine screws although I can't recall the actual size other than being long enough to get through everything and take washers and nuts.

There's an old thread somewhere where I described the fun of wriggling into the chain locker to install the plate only to get my hair embedded in a mess of 3M 5200.
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Old 01-08-2015, 11:37 PM   #32
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I use that chain hook directly on the chain. Easy on by hand (watch the fingers) and easy off with a kick.

Summertime evenings around here are just about guaranteed to be calm winds so I usually do not bother with a stretchy, nylon snubber (several available, however).

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Old 01-09-2015, 06:48 AM   #33
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Quote:
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I also use the slotted plate setup. Had the plate fall off twice and devised a simple solution. I fasten the plate to the chain with a small zip tie. Easy to put on; easy to take off, and the hook / plate never comes off the chain while deployed.

Ted
OCD, I'd possibly re-think that arrangement. I have had on occasion to have to do a quick up-anchor in a nasty wind shift, and in the dark and rain, and the last thing I'd want to have to do is locate exactly where my tie was to snip it to bring in the anchor in those circumstances. Sure, it's not a common scenario, but I have had an occasion when two boats, a yacht and us, sharing a bay, had to to do this. He got his chain hook jammed in his bow roller in a bit of a panic, and he was dragging, and he went aground. Fortunately we got away and were able to summon marine rescue to pull him off when we got cellphone reception, as the VHF had closed down for the night.

Just a thought…

I prefer to use tension on the chain hook to let it down, where the hook is then just below the waterline, and I let a loop of chain down to about a foot below the water, (not as much as Marin), and I like the fact that tension means it never comes off, but when we pull in, it always drops off before the hook gets anywhere near the roller and just hangs, waiting to be retrieved when ready. I tie the snubber off to the massive Samson post, so I just loop the snubber line round that when on the move.

Kevin, apart from the above, I also have a shorter, lighter, snubber line with a simple hook on it I use for day/lunch anchoring by hooking it into the chain just inboard of the roller, and also do that as a back-up to the main snubber if the main one was to drop off or come adrift in some way, to save tension going onto the winch suddenly.
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Old 01-09-2015, 07:43 AM   #34
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Peter-- The long loop of chain we were advised to let down between the bow roller and the chain grab serves as a kind of kellet. The weight of the long loop of chain hanging off the chain grab helps reduce the upwards angle of pull on the anchor.

We also let the chain grab on the snubber bridle down a good ten feet or more below the surface of the water for the same reason-- to help reduce the angle of pull on the anchor.

We started using this technique when we first heard about it from the very experienced cruisers (power and sail) in the boating club we joined a couple of years after we bought the boat. So we were using this technique with our Bruce anchor long before we got our current anchor, and we still use it today.
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Old 01-09-2015, 10:44 AM   #35
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Tonic,
OK good. The chain stoppers just look small and wimpy in the pics.

Panope,
Now that is a stopper I can relate to. Really like your setup. Is that a manual winch? What are your hawshole "window frames" made of? If they're all steel the'd be really heavy .. it appears.

I use 5/8" nylon line and cleat it off to a large 4 bolt cleat centered and dedicated to the rode.
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Old 01-09-2015, 11:08 AM   #36
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Eric,

The windlass is manual. Simpson Lawrence 555. Hawse holes are aluminum - along with the rest of the boat.

Steve
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Old 01-09-2015, 02:02 PM   #37
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All chain rode stopper

Panope

That's one interesting looking boat you have there.
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Old 01-09-2015, 02:53 PM   #38
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Panope

That's one interesting looking boat you have there.
I agree. It reminds me a lot of the Luxemotor barges (original and replica) you see plying the canals of Europe. Some of those also have a forward mast, albeit folding.
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Old 01-09-2015, 03:24 PM   #39
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OK Steve that's perfect. I forgot she was aluminum.

I'm a fan of nylon for a rode and have an idea that a short (say about 15') of heavy chain attached to the anchor w both a capstan and a manual windlass I could bring aboard the 15' of heavy chain and a big anchor in a very short time. Probably 3/8" chain. Could probably use 9/16" but a 9/16" gypsy wheel would probably be hard to find. I see those manual windlasses for sale regularly. And if the electric capstan died I'd bring in the whole rode w the manual. I like a lot about what I see in your boat Steve.
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Old 01-09-2015, 03:45 PM   #40
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Thanks Cardude, Tonic, Eric.

Here is a better shot from the (same anchorage) taken after final painting of the pilot house addition.



Love that canal barge, Tonic. Panope might just make a decent Euro canal or Great Looper as she only draws 4 feet and the mast is set on a tabernacle. Sometimes folks do not notice the tabernacle as it looks round like the rest of the mast. It is a segment of the same pipe as the mast, cut at the 6 to 1 "scarf" angle and a heavy plate welded in to close up the opening.

Steve

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