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Old 09-04-2015, 10:27 AM   #1
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3 point snubber attachment

Take a look at the three point snubber attachment on the Great Harbout N37 in the Yachtworld link below, and the three point bridle plate in the link below that;

2010 Great Harbor N37 Trawler Power Boat For Sale - www.yachtworld.com

Multihull Bridle Plate System - Colligo Marine - Synthetic Rigging

Interesting set up, no? Reminds me of an equalized anchor system from my climbing days, and would help reduce scope for boats with anchor pulpits high above the water. Discuss?
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Old 09-04-2015, 10:37 AM   #2
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Looks similar to the one I want to build, only I want something a little longer.
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Old 09-04-2015, 10:40 AM   #3
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Looks similar to the one I want to build, only I want something a little longer.
Without knowing for sure and just guestimating the physics involved...wouldn't a three point system allow a shorter snubber because the forces are divided by three?
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Old 09-04-2015, 10:55 AM   #4
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That 3 shackle plate is what I've seen used to setup 3 anchor mooring systems. For permanent or storm moorings.

For day to day anchoring it looks a bit overly complicated and unnecessary. Plus you always have those two lines hanging off your bow.

I've also wondered if lowering the point of pull of your anchor rode by only 6' or so significantly changes the holding power of your anchor much over a normal snubber setup. I wonder if anybody has done that in an anchor test?

As always YMMV
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Old 09-04-2015, 10:58 AM   #5
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From everything that I've read and researched, once a strain is on the snubber the attachment point at the chain is supposed to be below the water. Don't think it really effects the scope length, but is supposed to take the strain off the Pulpit.
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Old 09-04-2015, 10:59 AM   #6
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Without knowing for sure and just guestimating the physics involved...wouldn't a three point system allow a shorter snubber because the forces are divided by three?
With an anchor snubber it's all about stretch. Longer line equals more.
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Old 09-04-2015, 11:58 AM   #7
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While interesting, I'm not such a great fan of that setup.

First, it creates something load bearing right at the water line.
Second, it creates a situation where I would be worried about that line tied to my bow while under way.

I like the concept of using the two forward cleats as snubber attachment points. That gives me the opportunity to use it when conditions warrant and yes, not all anchoring in my opinion warrants the use of a snubber. It also removes strain from the pulpit, which again when conditions warrant is important.

In practice I do not use a snubber much of the time. If it's calm, there is really not much if any force on the chain and my windlass other than weight. When it gets breezy I deploy the snubber.
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Old 09-04-2015, 12:15 PM   #8
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While interesting, I'm not such a great fan of that setup.

First, it creates something load bearing right at the water line.
Second, it creates a situation where I would be worried about that line tied to my bow while under way.

I like the concept of using the two forward cleats as snubber attachment points. That gives me the opportunity to use it when conditions warrant and yes, not all anchoring in my opinion warrants the use of a snubber. It also removes strain from the pulpit, which again when conditions warrant is important.

In practice I do not use a snubber much of the time. If it's calm, there is really not much if any force on the chain and my windlass other than weight. When it gets breezy I deploy the snubber.
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Old 09-04-2015, 12:16 PM   #9
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With a snubber attached at the bottom of the bow, how would you cut the anchor loose in an emergency? I can undo a snubber attached at the cleats.

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Old 09-04-2015, 12:40 PM   #10
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With a snubber attached at the bottom of the bow, how would you cut the anchor loose in an emergency? ...........
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Old 09-04-2015, 12:47 PM   #11
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A V (two line) snubber is sufficient and simpler when using a chain rode.



(Earlier in the day when wind was stronger, there was more strain on the snubber.)
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Old 09-04-2015, 01:49 PM   #12
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With a snubber attached at the bottom of the bow, how would you cut the anchor loose in an emergency? I can undo a snubber attached at the cleats.
Does said emergence involve the windlass being inoperable and the crew for whatever reason not able to raise enough chain manually to dis-engage? That's the only circumstance I can think of offhand where the question is a concern. Pretty remote circumstance. Typically the chain hook is only a couple of feet underwater, so even on a high freeboard boat like the Hatteras, allowing for some angle, you're talking maybe 12 or 15 feet of chain to haul in.

I kind of like the close to the water line set up, because indeed it cuts down on the scope required, in my case by 40 feet +/-, though I never bothered to do the retro fit.
You would sure want to be very certain those eyebolts and the backing plates were very very hefty.

I also think a three point is over kill. A dual works nice; in reality the boat lays to one side of the bridle at a time until things get very sporty.

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Old 09-04-2015, 02:50 PM   #13
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Is a snubber used on a combination rode? If so how?

I ask because the reason stated for using one in the first place is to take the weight/tension off the pulpit.
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Old 09-04-2015, 03:27 PM   #14
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Is a snubber used on a combination rode? If so how?

I ask because the reason stated for using one in the first place is to take the weight/tension off the pulpit.
Yes and No.

More importantly than the pulpit is the windlass.
My first month before i got the 400' chain, I had combo rode.

I took extra slack out of the chain locker and then secure the rode thru the bow hawse pipe and cleat. That way the windlass was not being used as a brake.
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Old 09-04-2015, 04:40 PM   #15
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Ya, what Richard said. That's what I ment to say.
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Old 09-04-2015, 04:49 PM   #16
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I guess I am missing something, where is the third point?
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Old 09-04-2015, 05:28 PM   #17
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Is a snubber used on a combination rode? If so how?

I ask because the reason stated for using one in the first place is to take the weight/tension off the pulpit.
The purpose of the snubber is to put a bit of elasticity in the rode. If you've got a nylon rode, that's already accomplished. If worried about the strength of the windlass, tie the nylon rode to a secure cleat. More likely to get strong jerks on a chain rode, so a snubber is often desired.
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Old 09-04-2015, 05:31 PM   #18
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The purpose of the snubber is to put a bit of elasticity in the rode. If you've got a nylon rode, that's already accomplished. If worried about the strength of the windlass, tie the nylon rode to a secure cleat. More likely to get strong jerks on a chain rode, so a snubber is often desired.
Exactly right.
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Old 09-04-2015, 05:59 PM   #19
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In my book, the purpose of the snubber is to take the load off the windlass. It's not designed for jerking, heavy loads in one direction and you will eventually bend the shaft of the windlass with loads like that. Then you get to pull the whole thing in by hand or cut the rode.

I almost forgot, the subject anchor thing is trouble waiting to happen. I can also see the boat hitting something with that through-hull and basically can-opening that hull.
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Old 09-04-2015, 06:01 PM   #20
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I guess I am missing something, where is the third point?
Good point. I was assuming there would be a third line coming from the pulpit, but that isn't necessarily so.
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