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Old 07-11-2012, 03:46 PM   #21
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I'd like some input from fellow Aussie's on re-finishing the exterior of my teak cockpit doors so this doesn't become more of a chore than necessary given our sun. My boat is berthed such that the cockpit doors are facing due north and getting the sun all day long, year round. The surface is now failing rapidly....not sure what the existing coating is but I THINK it is varnish (the interior sides are hi-gloss varnish and remain in good condition). I am going to take the doors off the boat and have them professionally taken back to bare wood. Erik up in Brisbane has sent me photos of his teakwork refinished with TeakSeal, which I am certainly going to use for the caprail on the flybridge/boatdeck. But the caprail on the saloon deck adjacent to the cockpit doors is all hi-gloss varnish and looking good....so the very different TeakSeal look might not be right for the cockpit doors. Reading comments on the forum, main choices seem to be between Cetol (newer, non-orange formulations); varnish (with Epifanes very popular) or Bristol (not used much in Oz I don't think but clearly has a big following in the US).
So what do people think? For someone who doesn't have the time/inclination to do more than a single coat a year to the cockpit doors, what is the best way to go given I'll have the doors down to bare to start?
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Old 07-11-2012, 07:38 PM   #22
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I'd like some input from fellow Aussie's on re-finishing the exterior of my teak cockpit doors so this doesn't become more of a chore than necessary given our sun. My boat is berthed such that the cockpit doors are facing due north and getting the sun all day.For someone who doesn't have the time/inclination to do more than a single coat a year to the cockpit doors, what is the best way to go given I'll have the doors down to bare to start?
I`m using Cetol TGL Gloss, it has outlasted other common varnishes; at Bunnings it costs about the same,and applies easily. On my cappings I use Deks Olje 1&2, mainly for easy maintenance,but it lacks a bright clear gloss finish.
President Boatshed, Drummoyne (John Minehan, 0291813467) in Sydney has a varnish product they import and claim lasts 9 years,from memory costs around $270-300 for 3 litres.I`ve not tried it.
You could fit canvas covers over the doors for when the boat is in the pen.I`ve even seen canvas covers over exposed teak transoms on parked boats BruceK
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Old 10-13-2012, 11:00 PM   #23
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Hello,

I will be in Australia for Christmas and New Years. I hope to check out a few boats while in Cairns and Sydney. I'm in the market for a boat, but presently in the learning stages. I'd be interested in places to start my search while down under.

Thank you,
Bill
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Old 10-13-2012, 11:14 PM   #24
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Hello,

I will be in Australia for Christmas and New Years. I hope to check out a few boats while in Cairns and Sydney. I'm in the market for a boat, but presently in the learning stages. I'd be interested in places to start my search while down under.

Thank you,
Bill
Kwajalein Atoll, RMI
Hi Bill, Lots of boats for sale in Cairns,and Sydney. The Gold Coast region just north of the NSW/Queensland border is another major boating area. Start your research before leaving home by checking out Used Boats - New Boats - Search New & Used Boats For Sale - BoatPoint Australia and Yachts & Boats for Sale in Australia & New Zealand | Yachthub for thousands of boats available. You can refine your search to cut the field to manageable size. BruceK
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Old 10-13-2012, 11:42 PM   #25
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Bill: help us to help you....rough budget? type of vessel/anticipated cruising style (marina hopping; weeks at anchor; ocean crossing?)/cruising grounds?
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Old 10-14-2012, 12:24 AM   #26
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Hello,

I would bring the boat back to Kwajalein in the Marshall Islands. East of Guam, East South East of Hawaii. A long haul, but plenty of places for fuel.

The boat would be used for diving, mostly one or two day trips around our lagoon. Kwajalein Atoll, is the largest lagoon in the world. We would like to be able to to travel around the Marshall Islands also.

It will take a LRC. Possibly with extra fuel bladders to make the trip home.
Would like to sleep five, six or seven would be better. That way we could hire out a few dive trips.

Budget, under 90,000.

Thanks for the help.

Bill
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Old 10-14-2012, 01:06 AM   #27
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Take a look at Yachthub, power category, 41-50ft, 1st page of "newest listings" a 44ft "Corso Star Bridgedeck Coastal Cruiser" at $87K. Almost sounds too good to be true. Even if it`s as advertised,in which case it should sell before you get here, I don`t think I`d take the voyage to the Marshalls, but I`m the conservative type. BruceK
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Old 10-14-2012, 01:56 AM   #28
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BruceK,

Great minds think alike. I had looked at that boat. It is indeed interesting. Bruce, is that a photo of your boat in your profile? Nice looking boat.
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Old 10-14-2012, 07:31 PM   #29
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Bill, yes that`s "Doriana" a 1981 Island Gypsy 36, Europa version, we`ve owned nearly 3 years and are gradually restoring. Next job is the decks.
Comparing that timber boat on Yachthub to the one after it helps it look like value++, and it looks so good and has so much gear fitted. The Gardner diesel is a plus,they have an enviable reputation for durability and economy.If it is as advertised I doubt it will be around long, but you never know. Maybe a Queensland TF member might offer to look at it, or even know the boat.
Have fun trawling the websites for a trawler. BruceK
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Old 10-15-2012, 01:37 AM   #30
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Bruce, is your boat timber or fiberglass? Where do you keep her?

Bill
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Old 10-15-2012, 02:26 AM   #31
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Aquabelle--- We use Bristol over a penetrating epoxy sealer (CPES). Haven't found anything else that even approaches the longevity of this combination if you do it right.

We also have Sunbrella covers for much of the exterior teak on the boat including the aft cabin hatch and doors. Covers do wonders for extending the maintenance-free life of a bright finish.
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Old 10-15-2012, 06:56 PM   #32
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Bruce, is your boat timber or fiberglass? Where do you keep her?

Bill
Bill, Fibreglass, molded to look like timber. Kept in Sydney. Rated as a coastal cruiser, I would not motor one to the Marshalls. On the market they exceed your indicative price range. BruceK
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Old 10-15-2012, 08:30 PM   #33
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Thanks Bruce, maybe we can hook up for a beer while I'm in Sydney, would like to hear all about her.

Cheers,

Bill
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Old 10-15-2012, 08:54 PM   #34
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Bill,
If you want a project , look around for some of the ex prawn trawlers in Qld.
They come at a reasonable price and are usually very substantial boats.
Similar to my own vessel but more basic.
I have just been talking to a guy re using a boat similar for ocean crossing.
MV Nordley was a 52 ft timber boat that Brownie took accross to Perth for the Americas Cup ( shake down cruise) after that he came back to Brisbane then set out north, up thru Indo, around India up the Suez, spent a couple of years in the Med then went accross the Atlantic.
Did the Great lakes down the Inter Costal water way , thru Panama Canal, now not sure what came first , but he went up to Alaska , then I think down to Mexico. After that he did the pacific cruise to come home.
Not a bad journey for a 52 ft timber motor cruiser. no stabilisers , Gardner engine and a small stumpy rig.
As long as the systems are good and reliable things can be done.
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Old 10-15-2012, 10:30 PM   #35
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Great story, how much more work are the timmer boats compared to fiberglass. I've been lead to stay away from timmer boats. Just because of the high upkeep. I indeed do get a boat to the Marshall Island, there won't be a shipyard to go to if the hull needs repairing.

Bill
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Old 10-15-2012, 11:11 PM   #36
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Tidahapah (Benn) is right,timber gets more bang for buck, ex trawlers can be capable sea boats, there are in fair supply, you usually get a good engine brand.The layout of an open aft deck might work for diving. A fibreglass hull still needs hauling for anti fouling, maybe other issues,every year. I met a guy last week with a 40ft ex trawler wanting to sell,GM diesel,not pristine order,looked solid. If you are set on fibreglass, check Randell boats on the websites,they get used for cray fishing in Western Australia. Steber are good, (Water Police use them offshore),but way out of price range. Have you considered New Zealand as another,closer,boat market?
Always happy to meet visiting TF members, contact me before you arrive and I`ll send phone and email info. BruceK
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Old 10-16-2012, 12:20 AM   #37
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Not set on fiberglass, do need a better understanding of the up keep on a timber vessel. Going to look for Randell boats.... Bill W.
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Old 10-16-2012, 12:49 AM   #38
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Bill,
The main thing with timber boats is to slip them at least every 12 months, mainly to check for worm, a light wet sand, antifoul and back in the water.
Most other work can be done afloat.Good quality oil based house enamel will always do the job. one doesn't have to sand and fill and then two pack the boat.
As long as the fastenings and caulking is in good nick the boat will be ok.
Over the caulking you can have a traditional mix of linseed putty/whiteing and antifoul paint below the water line, no paint for above the waterline or clear all the putty out, so that only the caulking is left, harden the caulking up, prime the veed out seam and sikaflex it. This will last forever..
Fresh water is the bane of timber boats and is what causes dry rot.
Ensure all areas drain well and bare timber is sanded, primed and well painted.
The other important ingredient is LOVE
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Old 10-16-2012, 02:56 AM   #39
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Sooooo, let say you find worms in the wood, then what?
I'm seeing a lot about "spotted gum" hull and decks. I take it this is a type of wood in AU.
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Old 10-16-2012, 04:45 AM   #40
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Bill,
Spotted Gum is an Australian hardwood. Euculypt.
Spotted Gum, Blue Gum,Iron Bark , Turpintine (worm resistant) were all used as boat building timber and the most famous being the Tasmanian Huon Pine (this stuff is just absolutely fantastic ). Buy an ex tassie cray boat and it is pretty likely to be built of Huon.
When you slip every 12 months at least the worms don't get a strong hold and usually one just gets a hot wire up the worm hole to ensure the worm is dead and then inject some creosote in to make sure.
If the little (big) buggers have a good hold then cut out the plank and replace it usually best to replace a good length and not just a short section.

It is a skill but not ttoo difficult to learn.

Also check out this site. www.queenslandfishingbrokerage.com.au
and ring kevin if you get a chance he knows what ex gtrawlers are around and also don't be afraid to offer a price of your own , ya never know!!!
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