Wiring question,,,

[ancora]

I want to add a light fixture to an existing light fixture but not sure how to do it.

 

[ancora]

OOPS! Forgot the photo...

 

[boatpoker]

COnsider Converting existing lights to LED's

 

[CaptTom]

Not sure what the question is. Are you planning to add another bulb socket and leave the existing two? Just tap off the one wire going to the left bulb in the photo. Assuming both bulbs light up, the whole mounting plate is grounded, so you only need the one wire.

If you're replacing the whole fixture (this is what I'd do), you just hook up the two wires. If it's LED, check to be sure you've got the polarity right before making the permanent connection. Of the 14 I replaced, 3 were wired backward. Doesn't really matter for incandescents, but the LEDs don't like it.

 

[Alemao]

I changed all of our bulbs by LED and now our inverter support more than 40 hours

 

[RickB]

Remove the screws holding the old one to the overhead. Install new fixture.

 

[RickB]

Remove screws holding old fixture. Remove fixture. Hold new fixture in place while installing new screws in the holes provided.

 

[Richard W]

I would replace the entire fixture if possible, but if in a jiffy, you can replace just the bulbs with LED equivalent: LED Bulbs | Bulbs for Sale | YachtLights.com

Choose the warm white LEDs ... much nicer for the interior and easier on the eyes.

 

[BruceK]

From posts on another thread, OP prefers more light to saving amps, more info on the extra bulb fitting per CaptTom, could help. Is there a vision issue?

 

[RT Firefly]

Greetings,
Mr. BK. Of course there's a vision issue! Just read some of the OP's posts in OTDE.

 

[Richard W]

From posts on another thread, OP prefers more light to saving amps, more info on the extra bulb fitting per CaptTom, could help. Is there a vision issue?

Link to the other more descriptive thread would be helpful.

Replacing incandescent bulbs with the LEDs not only saves energy/amps but can generate more white light with less watts ... and runs cooler too.

I have replaced all my lights/bulbs with LEDs. When I used the stronger 3.5W cool white LEDs the light was too bright. I have changed them to 2.2W warm white LEDs and the cabin is lit as it used to be with 7.0W incandescent bulbs (I think there is 7 or 9 in the cabin altogether).

Some experimentation might be required, but the OP might be well served with two strong LED equivalents ... and add one or two more. if still required, as the existing enclosure is large enough. Not much heat and fire hazard with LEDs, and the existing wiring is more than adequate for the LEDs. Adding one or two more incandescent bulbs to the existing enclosure might be more of a problem (wire rating, generated heat, etc.)

 

[Peter B]

Greetings,
Mr. BK. Of course there's a vision issue! Just read some of the OP's posts in OTDE.

Now then RTF....he has actually been posting some Boat related posts lately, so be nice...

 

[ancora]

I have LED rope lighting behind a wooden valence in the salon for "stumble" lighting. I could replace the dim rope lighting with some bright warm white LED strips for more light in the salon, or just add the strip lighting by tapping off an existing salon light fixture and keep the rope "stumble" lighting. Again, power usage is not a factor but these old eyes need more light.

 

[Peter B]

I have LED rope lighting behind a wooden valence in the salon for "stumble" lighting. I could replace the dim rope lighting with some bright warm white LED strips for more light in the salon, or just add the strip lighting by tapping off an existing salon light fixture and keep the rope "stumble" lighting. Again, power usage is not a factor but these old eyes need more light.

No reason you couldn't do that ancora, as long as you were happy with the cosmetic outcome. I have done that in the ER in fact. That's the beauty of LEDs, especially the strips. Very versatile and draw so little, tapping into an existing circuit is absolutely fine.

 

[rwidman]

I want to add a light fixture to an existing light fixture but not sure how to do it.

A lot of assumptions have been made, but really, your post is pretty confusing. I'm sure you know what you are trying to ask, but you haven't phrased your question very well.

 

[ancora]

All I want to do is tap onto an existing light fixture and run wires to another light fixture or LED strip.

 

[rwidman]

All I want to do is tap onto an existing light fixture and run wires to another light fixture or LED strip.

Connect the wires that feed the new fixture to the existing wires. Use the same colors and makes sure they are the same gauge as the existing wires so the circuit breaker doesn't have to be changed. Use marine tinned stranded boat wire and marine crimp terminals.

The hardest part may be fishing the wires to the new fixture.

Make sure you are not overloading the existing circuit with additional fixtures and lamps.

 

[N4712]

All I want to do is tap onto an existing light fixture and run wires to another light fixture or LED strip.

Then just some simple butt connectors and your choice of wire is all. Just make sure you use marine grade supply's as Wes stated. Where do you want to run wires to?

 

[Richard W]

Just came across these LED fixtures ... looks like two of these would provide plenty more nicely diffused light than the two existing incandescent bulbs:

LED lighting, soundproof, Sailor's Solutions Inc.

 

[Xsbank]

I hope you guys will post the longevity you are getting out of these bulbs with boat voltage. I'm skeptical that 12 - 14.5 volts is going to be good for longevity, but I hope you can all reassure me.

 

[Richard W]

Good marine LEDs have voltage regulation circuits designed to work in 10-30V DC range. They also cost more than those found in Walmart or IKEA.

 

[N4712]

Good marine LEDs have voltage regulation circuits designed to work in 10-30V DC range. They also cost more than those found in Walmart or IKEA.

Or Ebay for that matter.

 

[N4712]

I hope you guys will post the longevity you are getting out of these bulbs with boat voltage. I'm skeptical that 12 - 14.5 volts is going to be good for longevity, but I hope you can all reassure me.

I let you know after we do our first trip, which will be about a month long of constant use.

 

[Peter B]

I replaced virtually all the lights on our boat with LEDs some 3-4 yrs ago, and none have failed so far. Actually, replaced is not quite true, in most cases I added the LEDs as an extra, so we still had the old incandescent fittings able to be used if desired for a warmer light - hardly ever do though. Rotatable strip LEDs up above the seating is way better for reading than fittings mounted down the centreline in the ceiling like the original incandescents anyway. I suspect this is what ancora is wanting to do also, and it works well, and saves running wires right back to the circuit board.

 

[FF]

in most cases I added the LEDs as an extra, so we still had the old incandescent fittings able to be used if desired for a warmer light - hardly ever do though.

I like that!!!! Belt & suspenders , cruising in style!

 

[sunchaser]

I hope you guys will post the longevity you are getting out of these bulbs with boat voltage. I'm skeptical that 12 - 14.5 volts is going to be good for longevity, but I hope you can all reassure me.

I replaced some fluorescents with LED and going strong after 3 years in a 12 V application.

 

[Larry M]

Good marine LEDs have voltage regulation circuits designed to work in 10-30V DC range. They also cost more than those found in Walmart or IKEA.

In 2007 we bought 4-120 VDC under the counter LED light strips from IKEA. I dumped the AC power supply and wired them into the DC light circuits. One, I installed in the AC/DC panel and has been on for 24/7's; total of zero failures. Around the same time we bought 3 bulbs from Dr LED which weren't cheap. One failed with in 6 months and one of the others has lost it's intensity. Did I get lucky with IKEA and unlucky with Dr LED? My read is LED manufacturing, along with better QA/QC, has come a long way in the last 5-7 years and todays bulbs are a better product.

 

[boatpoker]

I converted 16 (i think) fixtures using cheap Ikea lights and am very happy with the output and colour. These lights now have five years (full time liveaboards) and no failures.
Curiously these cheap Ikea lights came with tinned conductors.

 

[N4712]

In 2007 we bought 4-120 VDC under the counter LED light strips from IKEA. I dumped the AC power supply and wired them into the DC light circuits. One, I installed in the AC/DC panel and has been on for 24/7's; total of zero failures. Around the same time we bought 3 bulbs from Dr LED which weren't cheap. One failed with in 6 months and one of the others has lost it's intensity. Did I get lucky with IKEA and unlucky with Dr LED? My read is LED manufacturing, along with better QA/QC, has come a long way in the last 5-7 years and todays bulbs are a better product.

No, Dr. Led are junk in my opinion. We had one fail after 2 months, junk! And I think these voltage regulators are just for the person that is paranoid. It's just paranoia, the bulb going not last, blah, blah, blah.

 

[N4712]

I converted 16 (i think) fixtures using cheap Ikea lights and am very happy with the output and colour. These lights now have five years (full time liveaboards) and no failures. Curiously these cheap Ikea lights came with tinned conductors.

Hmmm, land based lights with tinned conductors. That's great to hear. I just installed a gps and a couple other things all had tinned conductors. I still can believe that's not a standard for marine application.