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Old 01-04-2014, 11:11 PM   #21
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Good marine LEDs have voltage regulation circuits designed to work in 10-30V DC range. They also cost more than those found in Walmart or IKEA.
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Old 01-04-2014, 11:20 PM   #22
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Good marine LEDs have voltage regulation circuits designed to work in 10-30V DC range. They also cost more than those found in Walmart or IKEA.
Or Ebay for that matter.
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Old 01-04-2014, 11:29 PM   #23
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I hope you guys will post the longevity you are getting out of these bulbs with boat voltage. I'm skeptical that 12 - 14.5 volts is going to be good for longevity, but I hope you can all reassure me.
I let you know after we do our first trip, which will be about a month long of constant use.
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Old 01-05-2014, 02:57 AM   #24
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I replaced virtually all the lights on our boat with LEDs some 3-4 yrs ago, and none have failed so far. Actually, replaced is not quite true, in most cases I added the LEDs as an extra, so we still had the old incandescent fittings able to be used if desired for a warmer light - hardly ever do though. Rotatable strip LEDs up above the seating is way better for reading than fittings mounted down the centreline in the ceiling like the original incandescents anyway. I suspect this is what ancora is wanting to do also, and it works well, and saves running wires right back to the circuit board.
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Old 01-05-2014, 07:20 AM   #25
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in most cases I added the LEDs as an extra, so we still had the old incandescent fittings able to be used if desired for a warmer light - hardly ever do though.

I like that!!!! Belt & suspenders , cruising in style!
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Old 01-05-2014, 09:27 AM   #26
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I hope you guys will post the longevity you are getting out of these bulbs with boat voltage. I'm skeptical that 12 - 14.5 volts is going to be good for longevity, but I hope you can all reassure me.
I replaced some fluorescents with LED and going strong after 3 years in a 12 V application.
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Old 01-05-2014, 11:14 AM   #27
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Quote:
Good marine LEDs have voltage regulation circuits designed to work in 10-30V DC range. They also cost more than those found in Walmart or IKEA.
In 2007 we bought 4-120 VDC under the counter LED light strips from IKEA. I dumped the AC power supply and wired them into the DC light circuits. One, I installed in the AC/DC panel and has been on for 24/7's; total of zero failures. Around the same time we bought 3 bulbs from Dr LED which weren't cheap. One failed with in 6 months and one of the others has lost it's intensity. Did I get lucky with IKEA and unlucky with Dr LED? My read is LED manufacturing, along with better QA/QC, has come a long way in the last 5-7 years and todays bulbs are a better product.
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Old 01-05-2014, 11:41 AM   #28
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I converted 16 (i think) fixtures using cheap Ikea lights and am very happy with the output and colour. These lights now have five years (full time liveaboards) and no failures.
Curiously these cheap Ikea lights came with tinned conductors.
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Old 01-05-2014, 12:55 PM   #29
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In 2007 we bought 4-120 VDC under the counter LED light strips from IKEA. I dumped the AC power supply and wired them into the DC light circuits. One, I installed in the AC/DC panel and has been on for 24/7's; total of zero failures. Around the same time we bought 3 bulbs from Dr LED which weren't cheap. One failed with in 6 months and one of the others has lost it's intensity. Did I get lucky with IKEA and unlucky with Dr LED? My read is LED manufacturing, along with better QA/QC, has come a long way in the last 5-7 years and todays bulbs are a better product.
No, Dr. Led are junk in my opinion. We had one fail after 2 months, junk! And I think these voltage regulators are just for the person that is paranoid. It's just paranoia, the bulb going not last, blah, blah, blah.
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Old 01-05-2014, 12:57 PM   #30
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I converted 16 (i think) fixtures using cheap Ikea lights and am very happy with the output and colour. These lights now have five years (full time liveaboards) and no failures. Curiously these cheap Ikea lights came with tinned conductors.
Hmmm, land based lights with tinned conductors. That's great to hear. I just installed a gps and a couple other things all had tinned conductors. I still can believe that's not a standard for marine application.
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Old 01-05-2014, 12:59 PM   #31
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Did I get lucky with IKEA and unlucky with Dr LED? My read is LED manufacturing, along with better QA/QC, has come a long way in the last 5-7 years and todays bulbs are a better product.
Good question ... the answer might be complicated.

The LEDs intended for home do not require much voltage regulation/protection built in as they come with own 12V DC power supply which is intended to be connected to fairly stable source of 120V AC household outlet. They will perform well in fairly narrow range of voltage fluctuation.

The good marine LED assemblies have own voltage regulation/protection built into every "bulb" or fixture as they relay on an unstable 12V DC power source.

In the early days of marine LEDs, most of the overvoltage protection was achieved with resistors that turn into power/heat sinks when voltage spikes.

Currently, good marine LEDs have robust voltage regulators built into every "bulb" or fixture that can operate in the 10-30V DC range, and are equally suitable for 12V DC and 24V DC installations.

Some others, like Dr. LED, still offer two versions, one for 12V DC and another for 24V DC installation. Can't really say they are not good ... but I would opt for the one that can operate in 10-30V DC range.

Here is some more info, an example and not the endorsement ...
LED Drivers for marine LEDs

The nav lights on my boat were switched to marine LEDs five seasons ago including all around anchor light that I use often, still going strong and no problems. All other lights on my boat were switched to marine LEDs two seasons ago, no problems so far.
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Old 01-05-2014, 01:04 PM   #32
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[QUOTE=Richard W;203544]Good question ... the answer might be complicated.

The LEDs intended for home do not require much voltage regulation/protection built in as they come with own 12V DC power supply which is intended to be connected to fairly stable source of 120V AC household outlet. They will perform well in fairly narrow range of voltage fluctuation.
QUOTE]

My 5 year success with Ikea lights included throwing away the 12v power supply that came with them and wiring directly to existing 12v, battery source.
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Old 01-05-2014, 01:31 PM   #33
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After 3 years of use on Moonstruck, the LEDs are so far so good. When on the boat some are on constantly. We replaced all but running lights. About 60 bulbs in all. Before, I was always changing bulbs especially the little courtesy lights. They have cut our house electric other than refrigeration to almost nil.

By the way the little wedge base bulbs for instrument panels are great behind your electric panel. You can get them in several colors. In the picture several lights are on. Notice the low amp draw on the top right gauge.

One bulb blew on install. I called super bright. They just mailed another no questions asked. I love 'em!

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Old 01-10-2014, 09:19 AM   #34
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Drivers on LED lights or fixtures do two things:

1) They regulate the voltage (actually the current that passes through the LED) so they aren't damaged by high voltage or "spikes". A millisecond high voltage spike can ruin an LED or any semi conductor.

2) Drivers allow the bulb or fixture's designer to get the most light possible out of the LEDs without the risk of damaging them. LED assemblies that use resistors to control the current must be designed for the highest expected voltage (let's say 15 volts). That means when the charging system is not operating, there's bit more than 12 volts available and the light is less than it should be.

While driverless fixtures from the home center or whatever will work, ones made for cars, trucks and boats with built in drivers will provide more light and be more reliable in the long run. Having a constant current driver is the important thing.

But, as always, you pay your money and you take your choice.
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Old 01-10-2014, 09:37 AM   #35
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My 5 year success with Ikea lights included throwing away the 12v power supply that came with them and wiring directly to existing 12v, battery source.
Yea, my cheap ones are still working as well. 64 bulbs, one year of recreational use, zero failures.

If you buy a cheap LED bulb at $1.50 you could replace it ten times and still be money ahead of the "marine" bulb that costs $20

Heck, the halogen bulbs I replaced cost almost $5.00 at west marine, and we all know they dont last.

I like that kind of math
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Old 01-10-2014, 09:41 AM   #36
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Drivers on LED lights or fixtures do two things:

1) They regulate the voltage (actually the current that passes through the LED) so they aren't damaged by high voltage or "spikes". A millisecond high voltage spike can ruin an LED or any semi conductor.

2) Drivers allow the bulb or fixture's designer to get the most light possible out of the LEDs without the risk of damaging them. LED assemblies that use resistors to control the current must be designed for the highest expected voltage (let's say 15 volts). That means when the charging system is not operating, there's bit more than 12 volts available and the light is less than it should be.

While driverless fixtures from the home center or whatever will work, ones made for cars, trucks and boats with built in drivers will provide more light and be more reliable in the long run. Having a constant current driver is the important thing.

But, as always, you pay your money and you take your choice.

I believe every word of what you say. The problem is your details get lost when the situation is like a coat hook on the back of a door. You can buy one very expensive excellent tolerances and finish or you could just use a nail.
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Old 01-10-2014, 10:54 AM   #37
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I believe every word of what you say. The problem is your details get lost when the situation is like a coat hook on the back of a door. You can buy one very expensive excellent tolerances and finish or you could just use a nail.

I like it ....
The US spent millions of dollars developing a pen to Mil Specs that would write upside down in space ...... the Russians used a pencil
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Old 01-10-2014, 11:32 AM   #38
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I like it ....
The US spent millions of dollars developing a pen to Mil Specs that would write upside down in space ...... the Russians used a pencil

both of these last two comments were spot on....

I have never had a " cheap" led fail yet.. and the voltage swings from -12v to +14v... mine ( 30+) were all less than $ 3.00 each.

It could be the naysayers are all trying to justify the $20.00 Dr Led's they bought...

Pencils!.. I love it

HOLLYWOOD
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Old 01-10-2014, 12:10 PM   #39
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... or could be the naysayers justifying their cheap choices ...
Hope they are willing to spend more on the LED nav lights ... just saying ...
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Old 01-10-2014, 12:14 PM   #40
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We bought our leds at Super Bright Leds and have no failures so far, for our 1142 style ones we paid $27, and on our G4 lights they were about $9. we feel we did just fine, didn't cheap out on anything so why do it with lights, something that's used on a daily basis?.
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