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Old 04-02-2014, 03:52 PM   #21
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We have a relay for the stop/fuel solenoid. The switch is at the instrument panel and the relay is next to the solenoid by the injector pump.

Have you checked the manual for the engines?
Engines operate normally. Just had a re-man installed last November.

The wire colors mean something.
Yellow
Black
Purple
Orange
Orange with red stripe.
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Old 04-02-2014, 03:55 PM   #22
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Mr. t. I'm surprised no-one has suggested this. Put in a 10A fuse and short the relay.
RT; please explain further.
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Old 04-02-2014, 04:03 PM   #23
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Here's how that relay is meant to be wired:

-30 = constant [positive (+)] power (usually wired direct to batteries or positive distribution post.
-85 = coil ground (wired to the negative (-) battery terminal or any grounded metal or engine).
-86 = coil power (wired to the control source. could be a switch or IGN or ACC circuit.)
-87 = switched [positive (+)] power output. (when the relay coil is powered, lead/pin 87 is connected to lead/pin 30)
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Old 04-02-2014, 04:08 PM   #24
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Thanks Larry
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Old 04-02-2014, 04:38 PM   #25
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Here is what the wires should be for...

DC WIRING COLOR CODE CHART
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Old 04-02-2014, 05:05 PM   #26
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I wonder if your boat has/had prelubers. We had them but one pump failed and was sooo costly to replace that I just removed them. It was awhile ago, but those relays look awfully familiar. Howard
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Old 04-02-2014, 05:16 PM   #27
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Greetings,
Mr. t. Put a new 10A fuse in and jumper between (thanks to Mr. L for the pin designations) 87 and 30. NOT the safest thing to be doing but a momentary connection might shed some light on the conundrum.
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Old 04-02-2014, 06:13 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by RT Firefly View Post
Greetings,
Mr. t. Put a new 10A fuse in and jumper between (thanks to Mr. L for the pin designations) 87 and 30. NOT the safest thing to be doing but a momentary connection might shed some light on the conundrum.
So I would be supplying power to whatever the relay is connected to bypassing any switch or control circuit to whatever the relay is connected to.
Yes??
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Old 04-02-2014, 06:32 PM   #29
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Was your prior battery charger equipped with a temperature sensor?
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Old 04-02-2014, 06:39 PM   #30
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Greetings,
Mr. t. Yes. The relay would no longer be in the circuit. Let me say again...This is NOT the safest way of testing but it might energize an alarm or some such and hopefully not set your boat on fire. Might be best to get the opinion of someone who knows what they're talking about. I'm sorry I brought it up....
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Old 04-02-2014, 06:44 PM   #31
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Never miss an opportunity to show off my last project. These relays operate the preheater, starter motor, and stop solenoid.




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Old 04-02-2014, 06:46 PM   #32
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So I would be supplying power to whatever the relay is connected to bypassing any switch or control circuit to whatever the relay is connected to.
Yes??
You got it.

You are probably right that it has to do with the engines as there are two relays. Are the lights for your engine gauges working? I know it is hard to trace the wires, especially to the load side but how about tracing the switch side (#86). Does it go to your ignition switch? Just a thought.
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Old 04-02-2014, 06:48 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caltexflanc View Post
Here is what the wires should be for...

DC WIRING COLOR CODE CHART
A very slight hijack.

Is that wiring colour code an international code? That is, could I rely on it for my Hong Kong built Island Gypsy? Or for that matter any of the other Asian built boats.
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Old 04-02-2014, 09:59 PM   #34
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Do you have trim tabs, just a thought. Dan
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Old 04-02-2014, 11:28 PM   #35
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Tim, just a thought, but since the Carver was offered with both gas and diesel engines do you think the wiring harness was also set up for gas engines. The relays could be for that.
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Old 04-02-2014, 11:57 PM   #36
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Many have disconnected pre heaters on Cummins engine starts, maybe the PO or factory did same. On my engines the relays like yours protect all the engine start circuits such as stop solenoid, neutral safety switch, fuel heating grid and two others I can't remember.
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Old 04-03-2014, 05:03 AM   #37
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Two relays set up side by side like that makes me think of a polarity reversing circuit such as would be used for a reversible hydraulic pump for autoplilot or oil change installation. Would explain why both fuses are blown.
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Old 04-03-2014, 06:48 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ulysses View Post
Was your prior battery charger equipped with a temperature sensor?
No, the new one is not either

Quote:
Originally Posted by RT Firefly View Post
Greetings,
Mr. t. Yes. The relay would no longer be in the circuit. Let me say again...This is NOT the safest way of testing but it might energize an alarm or some such and hopefully not set your boat on fire. Might be best to get the opinion of someone who knows what they're talking about. I'm sorry I brought it up....
Don't be sorry. The fuses are blown, so it's not likely someone disabled these 2 circuits on purpose. These circuits power something and they are suppose to be working.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mahal View Post
You got it.

You are probably right that it has to do with the engines as there are two relays. Are the lights for your engine gauges working? I know it is hard to trace the wires, especially to the load side but how about tracing the switch side (#86). Does it go to your ignition switch? Just a thought.
It will probably be impossible to trace these wires, but there is a purple wire and according to the wiring color chart purple goes to the ignition or instrument panel. That's a start.

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Originally Posted by Rebel112r View Post
Do you have trim tabs, just a thought. Dan
Yes, both work normally

Quote:
Originally Posted by Moonstruck View Post
Tim, just a thought, but since the Carver was offered with both gas and diesel engines do you think the wiring harness was also set up for gas engines. The relays could be for that.
Yes Carver did probably set up the wire harness's for gas and modified my diesel version as needed. I've seen several wire bundles with connectors connected to nothing. The problem is the fuses are blown which indicates to me that the relays powered something at one time.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sunchaser View Post
Many have disconnected pre heaters on Cummins engine starts, maybe the PO or factory did same. On my engines the relays like yours protect all the engine start circuits such as stop solenoid, neutral safety switch, fuel heating grid and two others I can't remember.
My knowledge of the electrical system on my engines is limited (because I haven't had a problem with that system) so it could be something with the engines. Especially since there is no switch in the circuit. All other items in the Battery Switch CB panel are switched. All items on my engines run normally, neutral safety switch, solenoid stop. The electric pre-heat worked on the port engine back in November when I had a re-man engine installed. The installer noted the voltage drop on the batteries and brought it to my attention.
But again the fuses are blown indicating to me that these circuits were not intentionally disconnected.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nightcap View Post
Two relays set up side by side like that makes me think of a polarity reversing circuit such as would be used for a reversible hydraulic pump for autoplilot or oil change installation. Would explain why both fuses are blown.
I installed the oil change pump and wired it though a different CB panel protected by a CB. The autopilot works fine. However I do have a reversible fuel transfer pump wired through the same CB panel as the oil change pump and protected by a CB. I haven't used it in some time and I doubt that's it but will check next time I'm at the boat.
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Old 04-03-2014, 07:17 AM   #39
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My thanks to everyone who's stuck with me so far on this. Some really great ideas and info has been presented.

Maybe I should start another thread, but there is one thing I don't understand and likely has nothing to do with this issue. I don't understand how the engine alternators are connected to the batteries.

Using my digital volt meter I've determined that the voltage output from both alternators are directed to the battery bank selected on the battery switch. It doesn't matter which engine is running or both running the alternator output current is directed to the battery bank selected on the battery selector switch. However in looking at the battery selector switch CB panel I see no wiring from the alternators. The alternators are around 100 amp units and this would require #2 battery cables. There is nothing like that in the CB box. I understand the alternator output may not be wired through this CB box, but if it isn't how would the alternator output be directed by the battery selector switch?

Two reasons I don't think the blow fuses and the associated circuity has anything to do with directing alternator output.
1. It works, alternators functioned as described last time we were on the boat.
2. The two blown fuses are connected to the same pole on the battery selector switch.
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Old 04-03-2014, 07:46 AM   #40
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Are the alternators wired wired to the starter and then through the starter cable to battery switch? This is the way the Cats that i previously had were wired...
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