Under counter lighting?

[ancora]

Looking to replace my fluorescent under counter 12 volt DC lighting fixtures with LEDs. Am I correct that 110 AC LEDs are actually 12 volt DC and all I have to do is eliminate the transformer to use them?

 

[Moonstruck]

Looking to replace my fluorescent under counter 12 volt DC lighting fixtures with LEDs. Am I correct that 110 AC LEDs are actually 12 volt DC and all I have to do is eliminate the transformer to use them?

Depends. You can get 110 AC LEDs. My 12 volt DC LED decor lighting is connected directly into the DC system. A dimmer can be used with many, but it would be good to check that.

 

[jwnall]

Um, why not just buy the 12v strips to start with?

john

 

[C lectric]

Maybe I'm misreading something here but direct replacement "tube" Leds are available to replace your existing 12VDC flourescents.
These LED flour. tubes will operate from 12VDC so all you have to do is strip out the inverter in the existing fixture and install the new 'tubes' and they will run from nominal 12VDC

Unfortunately the site doesn't show the voltage except on one page , 8 - 30VDC,
so to be sure contact them.

There are other sellers. I am going to do the same thing the next time my Thin Lites give trouble.

Revolution Fluorescent LED Replacement Bulbs

 

[Brent Hodges]

I've also replaced the 12v fluorescent bulbs with the led tubes sold by Marinebeam. The ones I did were in my v-berth and the difference is amazing. You rip out all the guts and just use the switch. The fixture looks the same afterward, except puts out MUCH more light. They offer them in 3 brightness. Seems like it was Natural, Cool, and Warm. Not in that order.
I've also used the "LED tape" for undercounter lighting. It's 12v and you just cut it to length. Just Google "LED tape" and you'll see lots available. Some as cheap as $10 for a 15ft strip.

 

[fryedaze]

I rebuilt my flourecents. Here are a few pictures.
Fryedaze - Lighting upgrade

 

[knotheadcharters]

I have been contemplating the same in my salon as the fluorescent lights are all out except for a few. I guess I can just tie the two wires into my existing wiring in order for to use the original switch correct? I'm very mechanical but a mental midget when it comes to electrical. thanks.

 

[Edelweiss]

OK.......YOU GUYS . . . . . you hooked me!!

I just ordered a 15' length of LED tape off Ebay. Came to $7 and change with shipping. My engine room lighting, on the 12 volt side sucks. SO has got to be a 150% improvement. I'll be letting you know if it's not!!

 

[FlyWright]

Don't keep it to yourself, Edelweis. Send us that eBay link.

 

[hollywood8118]

led

We have installed over 200' of led tape strip in our homes in the last year, I am getting ready to install the same in the valance that runs the perimeter in the salon of the Ocean Alexander in a week or so. In the engine room use a cool white for brilliant light, in the salon use the warm whites for that gentle glow.

Led wholesalers carries all the stuff including dimmers and we but a lot of gear through them. The tape is also available in waterproof for extra $.

You can get most led tape lighting in 12vdc

HOLLYWOOD

www.LEDwholesalers.com - 16 Feet Double Density Flexible Light Strip with 600xSMD3528 LED 12 Volt

 

[Edelweiss]

Here you go Al. This is for 5 meter 300 LED tape, not the replacement bulbs.

Yes you have to bid on it. There are actually lots of sellers with about the same product.

5M 3528 SMD LED Strip Light 300Leds DC12V Cool White Car Party Flexible Light | eBay

If it's junk, it's cheap enough that it's no loss.

Larry B

 

[CaptTom]

You hooked me too. For $8 at Amazon I bought 16' / 5m LED tape. Here's the link.

I went with Amazon because they're a known entity, and the prices seem pretty close all over. If this stuff works as advertised, it opens up all kinds of possibilities.

Anyone use this stuff in the engine room? I had one LED bulb fail in there, and I'm wondering if it was the heat. Probably didn't help that I left it on underway for about 6 hours.

 

[fryedaze]

You hooked me too. For $8 at Amazon I bought 16' / 5m LED tape. Here's the link.

I went with Amazon because they're a known entity, and the prices seem pretty close all over. If this stuff works as advertised, it opens up all kinds of possibilities.

Anyone use this stuff in the engine room? I had one LED bulb fail in there, and I'm wondering if it was the heat. Probably didn't help that I left it on underway for about 6 hours.

I put five 23.5" LED rigid bars in our ER. One failed at 18 months. They had a two year warrenty and they replaced it no questions asks. I routinely forget to turn mine off and they have stayed on while cruising. Heat may be the issue.

WLF series High Power LED Waterproof Light Bar Fixture | Aluminum Light Bar Fixtures | Rigid LED Light Bars | LED Light Strips & Bars | Super Bright LEDs

 

[Larry M]

I put five 23.5" LED rigid bars in our ER. One failed at 18 months. They had a two year warrenty and they replaced it no questions asks. I routinely forget to turn mine off and they have stayed on while cruising. Heat may be the issue.

WLF series High Power LED Waterproof Light Bar Fixture | Aluminum Light Bar Fixtures | Rigid LED Light Bars | LED Light Strips & Bars | Super Bright LEDs

Dave: In the engine room did you go with the cool or warm color?

 

[Edelweiss]

Anyone use this stuff in the engine room? I had one LED bulb fail in there, and I'm wondering if it was the heat. Probably didn't help that I left it on underway for about 6 hours.

I wondered about that environment too? They sell moisture proof and non-moisture proof and that could be an issue in the engine/bilge area as well as heat. Also the tape comes in different colors and LED densities, more or less LED's per inch. I went with the 300 LED, but they also have 500 and 600 (per 5 meters, about 16.25 feet in length).
I'm going to convert some 18" twin tube florescent lights, so I'm think multiple lengths of LED tape may give more uniform light over one or two lengths. I have one of the old lights with a dead ballast here at home, so will experiment with different options. If this works out, I will order some of the red LED tape and make the main cabin lights switchable red or white???
(Give me a soldering station and I am happy for hours!!)

 

[fryedaze]

Dave: In the engine room did you go with the cool or warm color?

I used the cool white color. Its nice and bright down there.

 

[jwnall]

(Give me a soldering station and I am happy for hours!!)

Bet you used to build Heathkits!

 

[Edelweiss]

Bet you used to build Heathkits!

Ha! Close but no, I never built one. As a student, I did have an old Heathkit HT40 that someone else built, we used it as an RF field generator for experiments. No I learned my soldering skills in college labs and later working in the field. It still comes in handy from time-to-time, but more so as a pleasure boat owner. lol

 

[CaptTom]

FYI about the link I posted from Amazon: I got a very nice reply saying they've been shipped - from China - and will be here in about 12 days.

I wasn't in a hurry, and I probably would have ordered anyway, but I figured I'd mention this to anyone else who wanted them sooner than that.

12 days from China is actually pretty good. Anyone else remember when "allow 6 to 8 weeks for shipping" was the norm?

 

[Peregrinator]

Early this year installed about 30 feet of led strips in the engine room. Very bright but they are now failing at rapid rate. there are two possibilities relating to these failures. The first suspect is heat due to the way I close to mount them, not trusting the double face tape I installed the strips in 1/2" acrylic tubs which made a great looking system but does not allow much heat dissipation. the second cause could be that on boat you are
running the leds at 13.3 to 14 volts which is more then 10% above the leds rating.

 

[jwnall]

Early this year installed about 30 feet of led strips in the engine room. Very bright but they are now failing at rapid rate. there are two possibilities relating to these failures. The first suspect is heat due to the way I close to mount them, not trusting the double face tape I installed the strips in 1/2" acrylic tubs which made a great looking system but does not allow much heat dissipation. the second cause could be that on boat you are
running the leds at 13.3 to 14 volts which is more then 10% above the leds rating.

Heat would certainly be my guess, given your description. Running at that voltage would tend to increase the heat buildup. So it is heat no matter how you phrase it.

 

[Larry M]

... Very bright but they are now failing at rapid rate. there are two possibilities relating to these failures. The first suspect is heat due to the way I close to mount them, not trusting the double face tape I installed the strips in 1/2" acrylic tubs which made a great looking system but does not allow much heat dissipation. the second cause could be that on boat you are
running the leds at 13.3 to 14 volts which is more then 10% above the leds rating.

Your right. From our experience it's the voltage that kills the LEDs first. A lot of LED's are not regulated. When you buy them look to see what the voltage range is. We have had good luck with LED's that are regulated for voltages between 11-15 VDC or 10-30 VDC. Dr LED and GBL LED's sell regulated lights and you'll also find them on eBay.

 

[neworleansrich]

I replaced several interior bulbs and fluorescent bulbs with these 48 LED patches. These run directly off 12volts. They are about $2 each on Ebay. Search 12volt LED on Ebay. You will need to solder some lead wires. For the fluorescent fixtures I used 3 of these.

Very white and very bright.

 

[CaptTom]

Going way back to the original post, I read somewhere that florescent bulbs are actually more efficient, that is, more light output per Watt, than LEDs, at least in some configurations. I was surprised when I read that. I just assumed the newer technology was "better".

If florescents tolerate the heat of an ER much better, it might make sense to stick with them if their efficiency is at least in the same ballpark as LEDs.

 

[Bay Pelican]

I have converted extensively to fluorescent and LED lighting both on the boat and in my North American home. What I have found when making comparisons is that at the 110 volt level the fluorescent and LED lights have approximately the same light output per watt. LEDs have the advantage in life and the ability to dim and use on a timer. Some fluorescent bulbs, but not all, can also be used on a dimmer and on a timer. Cold weather applications favor the LEDs.

At the 12 volt level for a boat the fixture more likely determines the type of bulb. The long tubular fluorescent bulbs are hard to replace with an LED. The smaller G4 ceiling and reading light bulbs work better with the LEDs. Any application which is hard to get to or difficult to change (mast head light) is better off with a long life LED. If one is starting over the navigation lights which are sealed LEDs are wonderful and can easily last a lifetime.

Thus the fluorescent versus LED decision most often can be decided on by the application, not the efficiency of the bulb.

Marty

 

[ksanders]

Looking to replace my fluorescent under counter 12 volt DC lighting fixtures with LEDs. Am I correct that 110 AC LEDs are actually 12 volt DC and all I have to do is eliminate the transformer to use them?

I have purchased all of our onboard LED lights off of Ebay and couldnt be happier.

I see bulbs other places for up to $20. I can buy the exact same bulb on Ebay for a little over a dollar.

I've outfitted our entire boat, something very close to 100 bulbs, using bulbs off of Ebay. No more going to West Marine and paying $5 for a halogen bulb. No more 40 amp current draw on my house batteries to power a boatload of lights.

A great replacement for undercounter fluorescent bulbs is a rope light. You can buy these in common lengths, and cut them to fit your application.

 

[CaptTom]

I see bulbs other places for up to $20. I can buy the exact same bulb on Ebay for a little over a dollar.

I'm with you on the idea of not overpaying. You can tolerate a high failure rate if you spent $10 or $20 on 10 lights, instead of $200.

Still, I've heard that the cheap LEDs don't have a voltage regulator, and so have a short life span in a boat, where starting drains and charging voltages create wide swings.

I wonder if it's practical to put a voltage regulator (or would it just be a limiter?) on an the circuit that runs the lights.

 

[hollywood8118]

I believe the biggest issue for LED strips is over voltage not ambient heat. Use of a converter in the lighting circuit should curb over volt problems. As mentioned previously I have used hundreds of feet of the LED tape lighting with great results. One pig issue is proper connection at the adapters that are added to the tape when it is cut to length. As it is a super low draw the connection has to be perfect or it will be intermittent at best.

Use of a step down transformer like the one below should end the over voltage burn out
HOLLYWOOD

Adjustable Buck Converter Step Down Module DC 8 22V to 1 15V 12V 5V Power Supply | eBay

 

[Peregrinator]

I looked into these inexpensive voltage regulators but they do not meet the requirements for a boat. they require the input voltage to be about 3 volts greater then the output which means to provide 12 volts you would need a 15 volt input. Also the ones I looked at would not regulate to a steady output unless the input was a constant voltage. I have considered installing multiple diodes in series with the leds which would drop about .7 volts for each diode if I remember my basic electonics. this would mean that as your boat voltage declined with battery discharge your lights would get dimmer but should help with led life. using diodes rather then resistors makes the system less dependent on current draw since voltage drop across diodes only changes slightly with current change. 3 diodes should work well, plus diodes are really cheap only pennies.

 

[ksanders]

I'm with you on the idea of not overpaying. You can tolerate a high failure rate if you spent $10 or $20 on 10 lights, instead of $200.

Still, I've heard that the cheap LEDs don't have a voltage regulator, and so have a short life span in a boat, where starting drains and charging voltages create wide swings.

I wonder if it's practical to put a voltage regulator (or would it just be a limiter?) on an the circuit that runs the lights.

I do not know what you've heard, but I had zero out of the box failures and I've had zero failures all season with close to a hundred bulbs installed.

We also use our boat like many others here all the time on, cruising, on generator, on shore power, on the hook. Plenty of voltage changes and zero failures.

Sounds like an urban legend made up by the people that sell $20 led bulbs to me.