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03-28-2016, 05:35 PM
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#21
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Guru
City: North Carolina for now
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 6,348
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As I have tried to make clear, Ultra does make a bell interface for exactly this purpose. Pricey, yes. But exactly what the OP needs. And he doesn't have to talk to another human being if so averse.
TEF-GEL - Ultra safety systems - Home page
__________________
George
"There's the Right Way, the Wrong Way, and what some guy says he's gotten away with"
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03-28-2016, 05:39 PM
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#22
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Guru
City: Ft Pierce
Vessel Name: Sold
Vessel Model: Was an Albin/PSN 40
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 28,149
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Check out door bell stuff at a big box store...something may work....
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03-28-2016, 06:07 PM
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#23
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Guru
City: Campbell River
Vessel Name: Okisollo
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 783
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20100 STANDARD BELL ALARM
* Standard Bell Alarm Indoor/Outdoor Available in 12v, 24v, 32v The boat alarm bell makes a loud clanging noise that can be heard over the loudest boat diesel and ship's noise. It is enamel coated and has stainless hardware which makes it ideal for Marine alarm use. The bell has an efficient motor driven mechanism that draws an amazingly low current of 0.029 Amps. Dimension: 6 inch diameter that mounts on a 4-1/2 inch base. Add Waterproof...
this is off the Aqualarm page
Using a converter from the internet I get 29 milliamps
Ted
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03-28-2016, 07:13 PM
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#24
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Guru
City: Rodney Bay Lagoon
Vessel Name: "Dragon Lady"
Vessel Model: DeFever 41
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 681
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George, thanks for the link. At $135.00 it's an expensive solution though. I wonder why Mr. Tef-Gel didn't mention it in his 3 word email.
PSN: Thanks, I'll take a look at big-box stores.
Ted: I have the $69.00 Aqualarm bell and really cannot recommend it. Their description is highly misleading. As mentioned in post #4, the bell is not nearly as loud, robust or well made as they claim. It uses very low amps because a tiny electric motor moves the hammer instead of the usual electromagnet. YMMV.
__________________
Mike
If all else fails, read the instructions
If it ain't broke, don't fix it
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03-28-2016, 07:57 PM
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#25
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Guru
City: Campbell River
Vessel Name: Okisollo
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 783
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I guess they have changed since I had one.
It was an 8 or 10 inch bell, I think, chrome and would near deafen you.
Sorry, I tried anyway
Ted
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03-28-2016, 11:02 PM
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#26
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Guru
City: Sarasota/Ft. Lauderdale
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 5,438
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Here you go:
http://www.amazon.com/Fire-Alarm-Bel.../dp/B00B7QMUJ0
And it only draws 0.085 amps. So you don't need a relay. As I stated, I used a 24v version with no relay and it works fine.
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04-01-2016, 04:54 PM
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#27
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Guru
City: Brookline, NH
Vessel Name: Shalloway
Vessel Model: Defever 44, twin Perkins
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 2,260
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shoalwaters
My sump bilge-pump is controlled by an Ultra Pumpswitch Senior. There is no high-water alarm panel with built-in piezo buzzer, although the PumpSwitch has the wires to connect one.
I want to use the high-water alarm circuit to trigger an alarm-bell which will use rather more current than a piezo buzzer. The wires mentioned above are quite thin and, according to Tef-Gel (mfg of PumpSwitch) can only handle 100 milliamps. A 12 volt automotive relay could handle the bell current, but would the relay's operating current exceed 100 milliamps?
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Aqualarm makes an alarm bell that uses only 29 milliamps which is well below the max of the Pumpswitch. If you use something like this it should just work without all the complication of other relays.
Aqualarm Standard Boat Bell Alarm
Ken
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04-01-2016, 05:01 PM
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#28
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Guru
City: Rodney Bay Lagoon
Vessel Name: "Dragon Lady"
Vessel Model: DeFever 41
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 681
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kchace
Aqualarm makes an alarm bell that uses only 29 milliamps which is well below the max of the Pumpswitch. If you use something like this it should just work without all the complication of other relays.
Aqualarm Standard Boat Bell Alarm
Ken
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Ken, take a look at my posts above. I have the Aqualarm bell and find it to be unsatisfactory for the reasons stated.
__________________
Mike
If all else fails, read the instructions
If it ain't broke, don't fix it
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04-01-2016, 06:12 PM
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#29
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Guru
City: North Charleston, SC
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 4,870
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shoalwaters
..... It uses very low amps because a tiny electric motor moves the hammer instead of the usual electromagnet. YMMV.
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And that would be because a conventional electromagnet would have points that would quickly corrode in a salt water atmosphere. A solid state device will be the most reliable on a boat.
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04-01-2016, 07:59 PM
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#30
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Guru
City: Brookline, NH
Vessel Name: Shalloway
Vessel Model: Defever 44, twin Perkins
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 2,260
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shoalwaters
Ken, take a look at my posts above. I have the Aqualarm bell and find it to be unsatisfactory for the reasons stated.
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Ah, that stinks. I have the Ulira Pump switches with high water contacts and the ULtra Alarm that uses the double 9v batteries. Its a nice enough alarm and its really loud. However another panel is expensive and I'm not totally happy with the double 9v batteries for power. Sure you can test them but if they go dead you have no alarm.
I was going to make my own "buzzer" for my upper station, but then I found this Sea Dog panel which looks a lot better than anything I could make, has leds that indicate "power ok" and "alarm" and its pretty loud. I think it will live ok in my semi protected upper station.
Sea-Dog : Quality Marine, Industrial and Rigging Hardware
Ken
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04-01-2016, 10:58 PM
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#31
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Senior Member
City: Hong Kong
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 247
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If you have one of the Czone, Octoplex or similar electrical systems then you can wire the Ultra bilge pump alarm output directly to these systems and use their alarm.
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04-02-2016, 02:41 AM
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#32
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Senior Member
City: Hobart
Vessel Name: Theresa
Vessel Model: Cheoy Lee 66 LRMY
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 118
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I really think you need to think outside the box.
These only need a bit of air to run.No electrics at all.
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