Source of electrical wiring tools

[Electro]

Never seen a pro use Kleins and I know a quite a few marine and land; but they are widely distributed so easy to buy, so can't dismiss them and a few people here like them, so there you go. As for Harbor Freight, I dunno, I regard wiring as a mission critical activity. I wouldn't get much solace suffering from a failed connection while out at sea by consoling myself with "hey at least I saved 50 bucks on that crimper!".

Read the article on the HF battery crimper by Compass marine... a sobering tale.

Making Your Own Battery Cables Photo Gallery by Compass Marine How To at pbase.com

You have never seen a pro use Klein tools?
I have been working as a electrician since 1995 and licensed in 3 states since 2005. Working off shore since 2008 . I have worked with many companies in many industries and every co worker ( fellow electrician's) have always had some form of Klein tool on them.. Klein pretty much founded the electrical market of hand tools.... In america that is.

I would be interested to see what your friends are using for there hand tools

 

[psneeld]

Interesting if true..consider the source....

History | Klein Tools - For Professionals since 1857

Today, the Klein brand is the #1 preferred hand tool in the electrical industry, as well as one of the leading brands used in the maintenance, construction, and industrial trades. Loyalty to Klein Tools is strong due to Klein Tools' commitment to professional tradesmen; professionals feel the difference every day

 

[Mule]

Tools

First, I have a 25year old Fluke, great meter but the one I use is a Mastec 2108. It is compact, has a clamp on feature of measuring AC AND DC. Around $75 at Amazon. I really like it. Full featured, even measures frequency and stores measurements if you wish. Best I can tell, only meter you will need. I will get back to you in 25 years. Most of the Kline stuff is top drawer. The Wiss electrician scissors are better than Klein, as a telco employee I would pick up the "snips" at the start of the shift and put them away at the end.. Bosch or Milwaukee small impact driver, you will love it, the 12 volt version. Small, light and just a great tool, can get into tight places. Were I doing it again I would buy the extended kit.
I have noticed there are some fine battery powered saws, grinders and so forth out there. With Makita, Kline, Porter Cable, Milwaukee I doubt you will of wrong. I used and abused a lot of this stuff.

 

[HopCar]

Bluto, I also use that type of crimper with heat shrink insulated terminals. It seems to punch a hole in the insulation every time but I've never had a corrosion problem. I think that when I heat it, the adhesive flows into the void and heals it. I also put the dent in the side opposite the seam in the crimp. It is much easier to make a good tight crimp with these than with the tools that flatten the barrel of the terminal.

 

[Richard W]

Another vote for Klein tools ... wire cutters, strippers, and testers.

As the tools for splicing ... I prefer to have the crimpers and connectors of the same brand, and my brand choice is ANCOR. I like their heat shrink, adhesive lined connectors ... I get good results even with a lousy heat source, or when the access is limited.

Not sure about dimple type crimper, never used one on a boat. This is a reason why ...

I use single crimper for heat shrink connectors, and double crimper for double crimp connectors that I dislike but it is what the boat builder used ... and a single crimp tool ?!?

BTW, Amazon.com seems to have best deal on nearly anything in most cases.

 

[refugio]

I've also tried a variety of shrinking methods and strongly prefer a 120Vac heat gun. Have to plug it in, takes a while to heat and cool, but provides the most controllable results. I do keep one if the little gas pistols around for "emergencies".

 

[ghost]

I have a few crimpers, but the ones I reach for are in the style of the Klein posted here. I also have a pair just like them without the dimple that I really like, but they are harder to find and currently only have the one pair, not always on the boat. I like these because they are sturdy and you can get a superior crimp. I do not buy stamped crimpers and have had issues with some of the ratcheting types, though for other style crimps I have a ratcheting pair that cost me about a hundred that works extremely well. That one has a set of dies that will interchange for standard crimps but I never use for that because the Klein style is so much more handy and leave the ratchet for butterfly style crimps.

Part of the reason why I don't have issues with the insulated terminals cracking is because I don't use them anymore. I much prefer the quality and insulation of non-insulated terminals with individually applied adhesive heat shrink. Massively better results since going that route. Carry one of those butane torches that run off a lighter and you can shrink in a hurry, or not as quickly carry a heat gun.

Terminal brands matter too. Many of the ancor brand terminals have better insulating material and with decent technique hold up even to the dimpled crimpers. If you are buying run of the mill terminals, I know exactly why you are having issues with the insulation cracking, but it's not just the insulation that is cheaper.

 

[refugio]

...I much prefer the quality and insulation of non-insulated terminals with individually applied adhesive heat shrink.

Agreed - you get much better control of the crimps - but you need dies specifically for uninsulated connectors. Plus I was never very comfortable with crimping insulation.

 

[ghost]

One other thing is that I use a bit of lanolin on the terminal before crimping and almost never solder anymore. Good adhesive heat shrink will keep everything sealed up and a good connection for a long time. Thusly I avoid risking the hard spot breakage that can come from a soldered joint. That said the very same adhesive heat shrink works as such a good strain relief that this is not overly much of a concern on a particularly important joint, so solder away if you feel the need. I just find that good joints properly sealed have proven nearly good as the day assembled ten years on, so no need for the extra effort or very slight risk.

It may sound like more time, but I rarely do a joint for a second time, years later.

 

[ghost]

Agreed - you get much better control of the crimps - but you need dies specifically for uninsulated connectors. Plus I was never very comfortable with crimping insulation.

I won't say the special die for non insulated is wrong, probably about to get schooled on that. I will say that the dimpled Klein, right or wrong, will produce a superior joint that won't let go.

 

[N4712]

I've had great success with dimple type crimpers and haven't had one fail yet. As parks said the epoxy tends to flow into the small void that the crimper produces. Works for me so I'll continue to use that method.

 

[refugio]

Here are my main tools. I guess I have mostly Ideal brand:
View attachment 31616

The Ideal Crimpmaster does bare (dimpled), Ancor insulated, 3M does both:

 

[refugio]

Tools appeared not to post:

 

[High Wire]

Bluto, I also use that type of crimper with heat shrink insulated terminals. It seems to punch a hole in the insulation every time but I've never had a corrosion problem. I think that when I heat it, the adhesive flows into the void and heals it. I also put the dent in the side opposite the seam in the crimp. It is much easier to make a good tight crimp with these than with the tools that flatten the barrel of the terminal.

I used to think that too but after 2 years in saltwater bilge space, some of the pre-made heat shrink connectors failed if the hs shell was penetrated. I'll post a pic when I can find one.
The Ancor ratchet crimper has been intermitant for me as well depending on insulation thickness.
Non-insulated dimple crimped then adhesive heatshrink slid over has not failed me yet.

 

[caltexflanc]

A good ratchet crimper used with the right dies and high quality heat shrink terminals (like those sold by Genuinedealz) will avoid all these issues and take human error out of the equation. You need to practice how to do it right, there are many videos on You Tube. I did a whole bunch of electrical work on my boat over the years; I am not a particularly coordinated person and having high quality tools and materials is essential. Some work involved in remediating crapped out solder or crimp connections from POs.

As for you Klein tool apostles, I did not say they are poor tools at all, geez, I feel like I stepped on someone's pet bunny. It is just in my unscientific sample of maybe a dozen pro electricians I have never noticed someone using them. Ideal, Paladin, Greenlee... are a few that come to mind.

 

[Electro]

PET BUNNY KILLER !!!!!!!!! LMFAO !!!!!
Im always looking for better elect tools.I didn't mean to sound butt hurt
I find that Greenlee make the best unibits and hydraulic punches.
I have no experience with ideal or paladin
I use non insulated for all styles of crimps and I use a dimple type crimp.
TEMCo Lug Crimper Tool TH0012 - 8 AWG - 0000 AWG(4/0) DIELESS Indent Electrical Battery Terminal Cable Wire

TEMCo Lug Crimper Tool TH0012 - 8 AWG - 0000 AWG(4/0) DIELESS Indent Electrical Battery Terminal Cable Wire

I pre sleeve the wire with 3M heat shrink EPS 300 ( the type with the adhesive built into it) Product Catalog&#1603Mâ„¢ Heat Shrink EPS-300Â*: Electrical Commercial and Industrial: 3M US

 

[caltexflanc]

Paladin and Greenlee are pretty much interchangeable, same company.

 

[caltexflanc]

Speaking of what the "Pros" do and use and how they do it...Here's another great article from Compas marine on this whole subject. Needless to say, I like this guy!

Marine Wire Termination Photo Gallery by Compass Marine How To at pbase.com

 

[High Wire]

Found the pic of a corroded dimpled heat shrink connector. If I use this type of connector, now its only with () type crimper.

 

[Electro]

IMHO crimping over insulation is always a no no

 

[refugio]

IMHO crimping over insulation is always a no no

Ancor seems to have made a business out of this, but I do feel more comfortable insulating myself.

 

[QB]

IMHO crimping over insulation is always a no no

Just get a good ratcheting crimper and the proper dies for the size and type of terminals you are using. Which you should be doing in any case.

 

[QB]

And BTW high quality 3:1 adhesive lined heat shrink is much cheaper from Aircraft Spruce than from Ancor. It just doesn't say Marine Grade on it.

 

[Electro]

Just get a good ratcheting crimper and the proper dies for the size and type of terminals you are using. Which you should be doing in any case.

Like I said
IMHO crimping over insulation is a no no. I don't care how good your crimpers are, In MY Humble Opinion it is better to use un-insulated lugs and adhesive lined heat shrink

 

[psneeld]

Like I said
IMHO crimping over insulation is a no no. I don't care how good your crimpers are, In MY Humble Opinion it is better to use un-insulated lugs and adhesive lined heat shrink

It certainly eliminates a weak point..but it's not to say insulating terminals crimped with proper dies doesn't preform OK most of the time.

Every once and awhile it seems some manufacturer's leads are a funny size...too big for one sized terminal and too small for another....not when fitting...but after the crimp..it's just not holding as if there isn't enough strands to make the wire bundle dense enough.

With an insulated crimp and crimping die for a specific size..it's gonna be loose..with uninsulated and dimple crimping...it crimps OK....no doubt at all.

 

[caltexflanc]

Like I said
IMHO crimping over insulation is a no no. I don't care how good your crimpers are, In MY Humble Opinion it is better to use un-insulated lugs and adhesive lined heat shrink

Re-read the Compass Marine article. It depends on 1) the insulation and 2) the crimper. The advantage of good heat shrink terminals is the shrink completely seals the business end of the terminal; something difficult to do with separate heat shrink. I would agree with you that cheap vinyl connectors ultimately require separate heat shrink. But why use those?

Gosh, when will soldering rear its head?

 

[caltexflanc]

This thread like so many on this particular forum remind me of this quote about the Captain of the Bounty which sank off North Carolina. I'd make it my signature but it is too long. You'll see it some more, I'm sure:

"He had clearly confused the lack of failure with success, and may have begun to truly believe his own advice."
-MARIO VITTONE on gcaptain, re: Robin Walbridge, last captain of the "Bounty"

 

[psneeld]

Oh how so true.....

Anyone that thinks there's only one way to do anything in life falls quickly behind...

I don't know who first said that...probably BILLIONS since the beginning of time.

 

[rwidman]

......... Every once and awhile it seems some manufacturer's leads are a funny size...too big for one sized terminal and too small for another................

Strip back some extra wire and use it to make some extra strands to fill the terminal barrel.

 

[psneeld]

That's one of many possibilities...I have used them all and to many people's surprise...many methods actually do work.

What works best for a person is just fine with me...insulated/non-insulated, dimple, die...whatever.

Better one think's their wiring may be having problems and checks on it regularly than think the most expensive tool and crimp will always produce timeless results.