>Where are you getting this ladle of molten solder?<
Dad was a plumber and in his day waste pipes were calked with okum then lead was poured to seal the joint.
The skill was taping the lead (special chisels) to tighten the joint even more with out cracking off the cast iron flange.
If done right the line could flex slightly over the years and not leak.
A cast iron pot was part of the gear , with a burner that would spin on to 20 lb propane tank that had threads to accept the unit , the ladle was part of the full kit.
On a larger job a helper would come in 1/2 hour early to get the lead melting.
Today with a small propane torch the old ladle still melts solder , takes a while tho, so its best to do a bunch of terminal ends at once,
Same deal as using a 5 lb roofing copper to solder smaller terminal ends , with out melting up the tinned wire.
>If you are too quick you won't solder anything. The wire and the terminal must be brought up to the temperature needed to melt solder and the solder must be allowed to flow into the joint.
# of course#
The molten solder will also wick up the cable and make it stiff.<
The wet rag stops the heat from going far up the wire , its purpose.
Cooling a solder joint too quickly with a wet rag may cause a cold solder joint. You have to wait for the materials to cool below the melting point of the solder before trying to cool the joint artificially.
The soldered end is NOT cooled with a wet rag , only the wire after it leaves the terminal gets the protection, from before immersion.