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Old 04-16-2014, 07:33 AM   #1
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Solder or Crimp

Should I solder or crimp this 2 AWG wire to the ring connector?

I have a total of 14 with 2 AWG wire to do. I'm installing a 100 amp battery charger.
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Old 04-16-2014, 07:36 AM   #2
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we just did this just yesterday. We crimped.
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Old 04-16-2014, 07:40 AM   #3
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Proper crimp and adhesive lined heat shrink.
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Old 04-16-2014, 07:43 AM   #4
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Where can I get a crimping tool for #2 AWG. Looking for one locally.
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Old 04-16-2014, 08:01 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timjet View Post
Where can I get a crimping tool for #2 AWG. Looking for one locally.
I bought one of these from GenuineDealz. Great range of lug sizes.
Heavy Duty Crimping Tool for Battery Lugs & Terminals 6 AWG - 250 MCM Genuinedealz.com
~$250
If you think you will do other large wiring jobs, it's worth it.
We used to use a hammer style crimper and it was hard work to make the job decent quality.
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Old 04-16-2014, 08:09 AM   #6
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Greetings,
Mr. t. I was going to suggest crimp AND solder but upon reflection, a good crimp should do fine. Addition of a conductive anti-corrosive paste/grease before crimping may be an advantage as well.
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Old 04-16-2014, 08:36 AM   #7
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Crimp

That lug is designed for a mechanical crimp. Go to Home Depot and buy a bottle of NOLOX, which is an electrical anti oxidant to put on wire prior to crimp. They sell it in the electrical department. Make sure the wire is stripped to no more than what bare wire can fit into the lug. Be careful when stripping the wire to make sure you do not damage the outer wire strands. I use a box knife for wire this size to ensure that I just cut the insulation and do not cut into the wire. Not so sure about the heat shrink wrap as it makes corrosion and oxidation hard to see and correct if it develops.
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Old 04-16-2014, 08:37 AM   #8
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Don't want to spend $250 for 14 crimps, maybe I can find a local guy that can do it.
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Old 04-16-2014, 08:48 AM   #9
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If you dry fit them all...take them to West Marine...they have always let me crimp..I usually buy a box of the same lugs to keep'em happy.
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Old 04-16-2014, 08:48 AM   #10
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You can use the tool at West Marine. I have gone in many times and used their unit then cleaned up my waste.
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Old 04-16-2014, 08:55 AM   #11
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I,m a fan of a good soldered joint myselfClick image for larger version

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Old 04-16-2014, 09:02 AM   #12
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Called my mechanic, he's going to let me use his.
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Old 04-16-2014, 09:13 AM   #13
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If you have one nearby, a good battery or alternator shop can make them up for you. Many NAPA stores provide this service too. You can bring your own lugs and heat shrink if you already have them.

The ABYC rules on soldering are:

"11.16.3.7. Solder shall not be the sole means of mechanical connection in any circuit. If soldered, the connection shall be so located or supported as to minimize flexing of the conductor where the solder changes the flexible conductor into a solid conductor.
EXCEPTION: Battery lugs with a solder contact length of not less than 1.5 times the diameter of the conductor.
NOTE: When a stranded conductor is soldered, the soldered portion of the conductor becomes a solid strand conductor, and flexing can cause the conductor to break at the end of the solder joint unless adequate additional support is provided."

I used the little drop-in solder pellets once for a cable I did not have a crimper for and which could not be pulled out easily to take to a shop. Not to mention it was in a place where it would have been almost impossible to get the right sized crimper in there.

Search results for: 'solder pellets' Genuinedealz.com

Worked out fine as I had plenty of slack and clamps to meet the ABYC requirement. Only did this as a last resort though.
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Old 04-16-2014, 09:47 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jukesy View Post
I,m a fan of a good soldered joint myselfAttachment 29119Attachment 29120Attachment 29121
I solder and crimp while hot. It's best done with two sets of hands.
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Old 04-16-2014, 10:27 AM   #15
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I solder and crimp while hot. It's best done with two sets of hands.
That is going to leave you with what is called a "cold solder joint". It looks like it's soldered but it's not because you moved the metal before the solder solidified.

If you properly crimp a connection, there is no need to also solder it and in fact, if it's properly crimped, the joint is air tight and there's no place for solder to flow.

If you think you need to do both, crimp it, then add solder. It really doesn't add anything though.
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Old 04-16-2014, 10:42 AM   #16
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I bought a crimp tool for about 35bucks that you use a hammer to operate. Nice for getting in tight areas. Search for crimp tool + hammer and you should find it. I have used it exclusively for thousands of large crimps with no problems. For little ones (10ga and under) I use the little hand held crimpers.

If you can't find one, I can post a photo of it and get mfr info.

I heat shrink large crimps (batt cables, thruster, charger, bonding, etc), but don't bother with little ones.

I don't bother soldering, like others posted it makes the joint rigid.

Tinned marine wire and marine lugs seems to be plenty corrosion resistant unless actually getting wet.
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Old 04-16-2014, 10:49 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ski in NC View Post
I bought a crimp tool for about 35bucks that you use a hammer to operate. Nice for getting in tight areas. Search for crimp tool + hammer and you should find it.
One on Amazon for about $17 or so.
NOCO D800 Blue Hammer Indent Crimping Tool
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Old 04-16-2014, 10:52 AM   #18
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Greetings,
Mr. rw. Please correct me if I'm wrong but I always thought a cold solder joint occurred when the pieces were moved during or in the latter stages of solidification.
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Old 04-16-2014, 10:53 AM   #19
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Old 04-16-2014, 11:09 AM   #20
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